I have been following this build from the very beginning. I must say this has been a marvelous master class in how to build a stitch and glue kit. Thanks for putting the effort and time to show the rest of us how to get it done and when your effort is good enough to proceed to the next step.
Hello Nick, in your book (Strip Built Sea Kayak) you explain the difference between a hard (plywood) and soft (foam) bulkheads. You mention that the plywood bulkhead can act as scissors with an outside rock and a kayak can be damaged. You prefer the foam to keep the kayak flexible. Do you install plywood ones in this kayak because is more simple?
I still use foam bulkheads a lot. Since I've written the book, I have decided that the risk of damage due to plywood bulkheads is low because the wood of the hull and deck add a lot of stiffness. In commercial fiberglass kayaks I often see cracking around the bulkheads, but fiberglass kayaks are substantially more flexible than wood-cored kayaks. Foam bulkheads do take up more volume inside the kayak. This usually isn't a big deal, but kayaks with day hatches have more bulkheads, so it starts to add up. In this build, the kit came with plywood for the bulkheads, so that what I used.
Hello Nick, the boat looks really great. Really fantastic! I'm happy for Bill, it will definitely be a lot of fun to drive. Nick, one question: couldn't you have glued the black adapter rings in with Sikaflex? In cars and mobile homes, the windows are glued in with it. Or is that not possible because of the salt water?!? I thought this because Sikaflex always remains a little elastic. Thanks for the great video and have a good weekend.
Hi, Sikaflex would work great. KajakSport actually recommends SikaFlex-221 for their hatch rings. They also recommend using the Sika primer (e.g. 215 or 290DC) on the ring before installing. kajaksport.fi/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/KS-Hatch-Rim-Instructions-2023.pdf I don't have SikaFlex handy, but I do have G-Flex and it has worked well for me, so thats what I use.
Looking pretty darn good from over here. Nick, what was the name of the fitting you were using to pass the poly tube threw the bulkhead? That is a great idea. On the c clamps you can spray some release agent (mold release) on them so the epoxy won't stick. I use it alot when bedding metal parts in epoxy. What was the name of that African River 😃
Gland Nut: amzn.to/3M2L4i3 They take up a bit more room than just shoving the tube through a hole and covering it with caulk, but probably more reliable. Mold release would work great, but it eventually wears off and I would forget to renew it, and the result would be the same.
Nick which brand of varnish are you using for the buildup layers? Schooner, McCluskys or a Total boat varnish. I use Epifanes on Teak and I love the stuff.
@@scottgorman7166 Lust. It doesn't make a great finish, but it allows a quick build, and then something better on the last coat for a better final finish
