This is a very good point that was missed in this video as was concentrating on the methods of cutting the herringbone. Will update the video at some point to reflect this as it’s an important point to ensure joists are straight 👍
Interesting method, I plan on using a CAD system to calculate the distance and angles and then cut them with my mitre saw. There are lots of ways to accomplish the same thing. Good video and thanks for sharing.
1. Mark/Chalk/Pin a line for the row of the struts on top of the joists along the floor. The line should be parallel to an edge. The center of the row of joists is recommended. 2. Measure the height of the floor joist or desired dimension. (225mm) 3. Take that measurement and “take off” about 10mm, (215mm), and Mark/Chalk/Pin another line parallel to the previous line. 4. This creates a horizontal rectangle on top of the joists that is like the vertical rectangle between the joists. 5. Lay the strutting lumber on top of the horizontal rectangle, align the rough cut strut’s outside edges with the marks and pencil it from underneath on both sides. 6. Cut the struts by hand or a miter saw. 7. While the bones are loose, start the nail or screw. 8. Fasten the bone to the joist. 9. Optional, fasten the 2 bones at their center. YT: Skill Builder YT: Redwolf Interactive YT: Chippy2003
Yes all apprentices learn the principle of herring bone strutting as you will probably never use it . Nearly 99% of strutting will be solid strutting. I just hope colleges are teaching I joists as well and not just dated solid joists.
Herring bone strutting is so much better than solid strutting in regards to weight dispersion. I am not a fan of solid strutting, there will be far less squeaks with herring bone.
Solid noggins can occasionally shrink which could lead to the joist twisting. Whereas the herringbone braces long to long. I’ve done herringbone before in the joists above an restaurant kitchen where moisture content will be minimal
No, herringbone is stronger and allows for movement in the joists due to shrinkage. Much better for services too. The reason it isn't very common now is that most carpenters don't know how to fit it and it takes longer. It doesn't fit with the crash, bang and wallop culture.
Hue Incorrect ......strange but true herringbone strutting is stronger than solid bridging. I have had arguments about this where management think solid has to be the strongest rather than a couple of bits of 38 x 38 but its the cross triangular bracing effect that spreads any point load to adjacent joists. It functions best where the joist depth is closely matched to the size of the centres as this makes the struts closest to 45 degree.
