While I did manage to figure out a process in the end, I'm not certain I installed this cladding in the most straightforward way. If you have any suggestions that others may be able to benefit from, let's pool everyones knowledge by responding to this comment directly 👇
There’s a two part trim for cladding ( male & female) fix off the male or female to timber then fit cladding then press in you male or female trim , we use this for dormers etc but the principle is the same 👍
On the lower piece of trim, you could cut out a slot at the back and fold that bit of plastic down and then pin that plastic underneath the trim? Alternatively you could put a few panel pins in 45° upwards underneath, just nicking the inner edge of the trim.
Matt, to start off with I thought great idea, but then thought it might look to clinical. It really doesn't! With the 'cut the boards slightly shorter', are you not worried they might shift over and then fall out? Edit, i think i seen you gue them in right! aha
What a beautiful transformation that siding made. I really appreciate the time you invested in figuring out the methodology to maintain your high standards. I think too many people get frustrated in the process and rationalize why they produce substandard work and say “it’s good enough.” Then every time they look at it, they have to live with the knowledge they were lazy. It’s not what build (cook, paint, sew, sex, or create anything), it’s how you build it. Maintaining standards-morals included-is an indicator of a person’s integrity.
Great video…..I’ve been envisioning a hollow shiplap in order to save weight from using wood and your video popped up! What is the manufacturer of this cladding? Couple Tips/Notes: - Wear gloves and goggles for protection & safety - You can mark the location the LED lights using painters tape and then dry fit the cladding so you can verify alignment. - Use adjustable support poles can greatly help when dealing with the ceiling - Install the floors and ceiling before doing the walls and cabinets.
I used a tile patterned version of this stuff to clad over old tiles in my bathroom to give it a facelift. It’s super easy to install and you get brilliant results. I used the recommended glue and no nails and it’s tough as old boots.
Great video, I had heard of that product thank you for sharing. After 4 years of research and living in numerous homes on wheels, I am finally going with 3mm ply that's coated white, e.g. alkorcell, no maintenance required, scratch-resistant, soundproof, waterproof and lighter yet again, gives you more room in your van, easy to work with, great stuff.
This looks mint! Well done and yes i wish i had your workshop and tools but this can be done with other tools as you said. But i don't think i could make it look this good.
A simple solution to get level lines is to use a piece of clear hose pipe and fill it with water. The water level on both ends of the hose will always be level, no matter the distance between point A and point B. This may help transferring level lines from one side of the van to the other top ensure everything looks right.
Really great progress! I can't help but wonder if screws might have been a more secure attaching method with the ceiling cladding. I know you also have adhesive so that may work just fine but since I'm a belt and suspenders (braces) kind of person, I thought screws would be better able to withstand the stresses of a constantly moving "house."
kitchen counter area needs more work for securing , in a head on crash the counter will act as guillotine and cut you in half. Also why you never made a cardboard template for the cladding is something that would make life easier, its harder to measure up to than to measure from .
@@MattsVan that is where you are wrong ..the profile is the same just turn the board the other way, I have used this board many times on soffits and cladding .. You should also leave a 10mm gap all round in the capping to allow for expansion. There is also a female and male trim for ends and top, fix the female first then push the male part in. best of luck with the rest of the build.
@@rodwynn7932 that would allow water to gather in the grooves if it were to ever condense or get wet. Generally t&g boards are installed with the tongues on the top which prevents water/liquids from flowing into the joins. That said, happy to be proven wrong still 👍
