We got this exact one in our shop. Works great makes plenty of ice too. Good idea for the drain Pan. Only other thing we did is add a little water filter before it to keep things clean.
Install a DOME (or another brand) water shutoff valve with a companion water sensor in the pan. It will automatically shutoff the water supply if water is detected in the pan. It will also send an alarm to your cell phone.
You did a great Job only thing I would add is a water filter. The ice that is in the bin will melt over time and drain out so no matter what keep the pan. I work for BJU HVAC department in Greenville and we have added power cut off systems to one of our ice machines and it works. you just need to be make sure that your water protection system doesn't affect the clean process as during cleaning it may dump more water than normal.love you videos thanks for the great instructive content as a young guy in the field it has been very helpful
I would of built a stand to have that unit above the drain. And you won’t worry about a pump or any switch. Natural draining. Like a 3 foot stand. It would be best solution in opinion
Hi Ted if it was my ice machine I would install a Everpure water filter, and you need to think about if there is a power outage and the pump wont run all that ice in the bin will melt and possibly overflow the drain pan good luck and nice job
Ted, a GFCI is a good idea, also a filter for taste and one for sediment is typically how these are connected. Glad to see that you didn't use plastic 1/4" line or plastic push to connect fittings on the ice maker. We had that done at church, and one of the lines blew off and did damage to the kitchen in the basement.
Definitely put a tether on the ice scoop. Someone will inevitably leave it inside the machine and it will get buried which is a bit of a hassle (not to mention people digging around in the ice with their dirty hands to find it). I would also recommend a stainless steel scoop because the plastic one will start to crack as it ages. Personally, I hate the multi-turn valve type you put on the supply line. I've had better luck with the quarter-turn type. They seem to be a bit more sturdy.
Reefer here in NYC.Make sure you do proper IM cleaning at a minimum every 6 months. Maybe more since i see you didn't put a water filter on the there. Dont forget to dismantle all the inside part and scrub with chemical to keep scale and algae at bay.
What happens when the power goes out and the ice melts but the pump doesn't run? Does the machine hold all the water or does it drain out all the time?
I agree with other commenters. If it's near water, install a GFCI, and I definitely like the idea of building a stand so that everything drains via gravity. Forget about the pump.
Appliance tech here , if it was me I would put that on a gravity floor drain . I always test my ice machines after installation by pouring a gallon of water in it to see if the drain can keep up . I install alot of ice machines in residential kitchens and failure is not an option for me . I'm sure what you did will work , but if it don't consider the gravity option.
You need to have a floor drain or gravity drain the PVC...I've put in a couple Ice machines and no one has ever used a condensate pump...or a safety pan. Remember Ted it's not an AC lol...
Thanks for the video. Besides a STRONG recommendation to add the appropriate filter, cleaning and sanitizing the machine after startup and before the ice is consumed is very important. Proper storage of the ice scoop also contributes to proper food safety. Wash those hands before filling that cooler.
Man if i lived in greenville id be applying everyday to you. You treat your guys so well and are such a good soul. You dont have a bad bone in you. Much love Uncle Ted.
Good idea to have an ice machine. I believe the machine has a few filters of its own inside. Love those fast producing machines and the ice cubes made are just perfect.
Raise the machine so you can gravity drain. Even if you you kill power with a broken pump the whole ice bin will melt and create a big mess. Gravity drain prevents all this. But I’m just a DIYer.
I've only hooked up a few ice machines but the ones I did always wanted a tee at the back of the machine with a little open section of pipe going up for a vent. Hopefully yours doesn't need that. Also, congratulations on becoming a DIYer 😀👍
I think I would pull the ice maker to the front of the pan (which was a GREAT idea) in case the fittings leak. It appears they hang over behind the pan, but it might be an optical illusion.
I’m 22 and I’m a year in to a job where we work on ice machines, ac, walk in/reach in coolers and freezers and other kitchen equipment. Also a year into school. Love the videos man they help a lot
I agree. Lots of water. Easiest is to get up off the ground. Plus makes it easier to scoop ice out. Less bending over. A lot like how washer and driers have the pedestals now.
You could get one of those moisture sensors that sound a alarm. I think they have ones that are connected to your wifi and will notify you. Also think there is one that can be set up to close a valve or disconnect power.
Good job on the install Ted I hope you get good use of it that worth the investment Two items I would add on is good quality water filter and GFCI outlet or a GFCI breaker in the electrical panel for the machine and let the insurance take care of the rest if be comes a problem safety is priority number one
As almost everyone has said ice filter is necessary. The drain line will be as cold as a suction line so it should be insulated. That drain pump will trip off the float on every harvest cycle as the machine flushes out the water pan. So if you can redo the drain in the wall it would be worth the trouble to do it instead of using a pump that doesn't have enough capacity to handle the drain cycle. Depending on your water supply you will need to run a clean cycle every few months. On the auto clean cycle it will work that pump to death.
I wouldn't have put a pump on it, if at all possible. A wash cycle will test that pump. And like someone else said, a long power failure will be a disaster. I love watching and I love your shop.
Maybe it is not a big deal, where you live, but where I live, I would have caulked around those pipes and put on escutcheons to prevent insects and critters from finding their way in. Those little boogers just need the tiniest pathway to get into our buildings.
Do these ice machines have a built-in H2O filter? If not, it might not be a bad idea to install one. Good water+protecting internal components from excessive mineral build up= good clear ice.
Hope you put tephlon on the street 90, also if you look on the back of the machine there is a diagram on how to pipe the drain usually. Your suppose to vent the drain line above the level at which it drains to..
Talk with your alarm company. They can usually tie in any sort of a contact closure switch as a trouble only zone. They'll call you if it triggers. Unlike the DIY things that just send an alert to a phone app, the alarm company will keep calling down your contact list until they get ahold of someone.
I did the same thing on our fish hatchery system. I used alarm switches to indicate a trouble alarm if my indoor fish hatchery system goes into a low water condition that would indicate a water leak and/or a loss of system control power. I also built a timer-activated trouble alarm switch that sends a signal if my generator fails to start after a power failure. Since the alarm system switches and monitors use batteries, they work even if there is a loss of power. The switches also signal a low battery condition.
Gravity drain would be best, but it looks like you have a pump to send any water out of the pan whenever it fills with drained water. That will work. The whirlpool under the counter ice-maker actually uses this setup with a built in pump which sends drain water up the same way your dishwasher pumps water after a cycle. I'm considering my options. I have a manitowok? ice-maker which dumps about 1 cup worth of water after each tray is done and it comes out the drain. Since I don't have a floor drain like most restaurants have, I'm looking at either building a raised platform and a gravity drain, or raised platform, with a bucket to catch the drain water, and a pump to send it into the drain. With a pump, I could put it in my kitchen right next to the dishwasher, otherwise I'm going to have to store it outdoors on the patio.
That's a good question. I have an ice machine just like that one and a lot of water goes out the drain when I pour in cleaner and put it thru the cleaning cycle.
Good thing ice machine stops believe just a drain for melting ice .You could add a backup ups to drain system. I worked on bigger machines that when the second cycle of ice,when the machine is full then restarts it opens a drain valve ,pumps the water tray down then fills with clean water for the ice, about a quart of water not sure on this machine does if so that will test the drain pump .You should add a filter for taste and for cleaning less mineral deposits.
I would shut water off if failure. If you shut unit down ice is going to melt. Maybe a warning light if pan starts getting water collecting. Nice install
I just installed a Hoshizaki on my back patio and gravity fed my drain. I didn't want to trust a pump. I also installed a 3M water filter and it produces a lot of ice quick.
Assuming the ice maker uses a float valve to control water level and use, think about lengthy power failures. Will your pan hold all the ice if it melted? I feel installation higher up and a gravity drain to the outside would resolve that issue. Yes to both GFCI and water filter would finish this project. Good luck! From a new sub…
Hello Ted you can install a motorized ball valve in you drain in case you condescension pump stops working install the drain pan safety switch to active the valve and close the drain. All the water stays inside the box. The ace machine has a switch to stop the compressor when is full of ice.
hello buddy I have one question for you. I have the same machine do you have but I tried installing by myself, but looks like have a condenser cooled units only is necessary to do that?
Think about raising the ice machine up for gravity to drain it. If the pump fails and turns off the ice machine. The ice will melt. Some thing with a power outage. Just a thought
I was recently installing a new washer and dryer and started off using this exact brand of braided lines.....no matter what I tried (tightening/loosening), they leaked at the fittings. Had to take them back and get regular hoses. Never seen anything like it in my life.
Get an audible alarm or wifi capable pan alarm such as the aquara in addition to the shut-off solution you were thinking of because you may not know the pump failed right away. The ice in that bin will melt and cause the pan to overflow even after the water supply or power is cut. The alarm will let you know the second that pan starts holding water.
I've never used a condensate pump you can break a safety or the outlet or put machine on a outlet timer so it only runs during the week when someone is around.
I'd like to suggest that you get the automatic shut off water valve that uses a compressed piece of cotton to shut off the valve. The valve is screwed to the floor or base wherever the water will be and when water gets on the little compressed piece of cotton it swells up and lift the little valve to shut off the water supply that's what they have for the little reverse osmosis systems and the valves I have bought online from Amazon for a different ice maker/dispenser dcm-500bah. I did the same thing your doing except the condensate pump I got had a built in float switch already with separate wires, but rated 24v only
Home Depot also sells hoses in the washing machine section that are called floodsafe their little finicky sometimes but once everything is set right they are awesome because if the hose were to burst there's a little disk that shuts off the water flow those are the biggest hoses I know of that are automatic shut-off but their water flow rate is pretty low I have had a situation where I had to put two Splitters on each end to make the water flow better and still have the floodsafe disc, water flow resistor deal. I fond these after a hose burst and cut through drywall into my neighbors garage wall and flooded her garage and water damaged all her boxed up belongings. Thank God for renters insurance.
I’m assuming that drain is truly just a drain from the ice bin as the ice melts. In that case, if the drain pump fails, just shutting off the ice machine may not prevent the pan from overflowing, depending on the volume of the ice bin vs the capacity of the pan - if left for long enough, any residual ice in the bin is just gonna continue to melt… shutting off the machine will stop more ice from being made, but can’t stop the leftover ice from melting. Can’t really think of an elegant and simple way to address the ice melt issue, save for moving the machine so its drain is above whatever it drains into, eliminating the need for the pump. Outside of that option, I’d say best bet is to call attention to the problem as quickly as possible, so maybe a float switch that shuts off the machine and also triggers some sort of loud and irritating alarm. I expect something like that would allow you or one of your employees to notice the issue and address it (by manually scooping out the remaining ice) before it becomes a bigger problem. That would probably be sufficient in my book, but that’s just my two cents.
Install a water sensor ribbon that will send an alert if it gets wet. Can also tie it into a relay to cut off power. Also maybe a charcole water filter in the supply line. Thanks
a float switch in a 5 gal bucket that will turn off power or water supply is what i would do in that situation lol edit: 2nd thought get a switch that will kill water not power probably make things worse if all the ice melts inside the unit cause power was cut ya .... so maybe a water solenoid valve hooked to a float switch
Ted they make a unit with a moister sensor that sets in the pan for washing machines. Seen it on "ask this old house". It will shut off both water and power. Check at a plumbing supply house.
I know I'm a little late to the party here but thought id throw in my 2 cants anyway. install a float switch in the pan and use it to break the circuit for the solenoid valve in the ice machine. pan fills up, float breaks the circuit, solenoid cant open and let anymore water into the machine.
Would have had a gopro inside to get the money shot. And yes, you are a DIYer. At the high end of the scale. I would put a scoop holder on inside of the unit.
Filter the water. Level the machine. Clean the machine regularly or the bin drain will clog with slime. Because this machine fills until the float turns the water off, you want to shut off the water if there is ever any moisture in the pan. You still might end up with some water on the floor, if you're away from it for long enough for the bin to melt. and something goes wrong.
In the US they have so nice fridges with icemakers. No need for an icemaker OR you have to be an alcoholic and you need 1kg ice every hour for your whisky ;-)
Machines like the ice maker have a solenoid water inlet valve, that opens with an energized coil, being fail-safe if power goes out or similar. You shouldn't need no float or pan, no restaurant I've seen has such a setup in their kitchen... Condensate wise that thing shouldn't put out more than a gallon or two a day, so even if your pump died it wouldn't flood the place even over a few days unattended. I really wouldn't overthink this. If you're that paranoid just turn the water off every night, that's your best insurance!
A pump safety switch in the drain pan wired in series with the condensate pump safety pulls in a relay with a 24 volt coil. The coil has 2 sets of contacts . Relay pulls in it has 1 NC set of contacts that open to shot off a solenoid valve on the water line and and 1NC set of contacts that open to kill power to the isc machine. Then you need a source of 24v power. You could use one of those Honeywell or Argo switching relays with a transformer in it. So your 2 safety's wired in series go to T & T on the relay. Relay pulls in opens 120 volt solenoid and kills compressor In fact yo probably don't need a saparate solenoid......there should be one built into the machine. That will leave the condensate pump live but that should be ok JMHO
I realize this is an older video so before I go and offer my suggestions, I wanted to see if you already found a solution or if you are okay with how it is?
You already have most of what you need to interrupt the power and the water solenoid in the ice maker (it will cut off the water like a refrigerator ice maker or even one off an old dishwasher can go inline of the water supply. You should have a 24 volt transformer, a 24 volt compressor contactor and a pan switch. You'll need to put the transformer and contactor in an enclosure. An enclosure can be had from a old outside AC disconnect box. Just take the guts out and mount the transformer and contactor and a receptacle box under it. I could send you a drawing.
That's called a Meter Box for your water meter. Teflon can be bad for plastic pipe as if you put too much it can put a lot of pressure and crack the female fitting. I prefer pipe dope myself for that reason.
I learned that cleaning and priming on new pvc is crucial with a pressured supply especially with fast acting valves. Water hammer is a bitch. Given that is a drain, I doubt you'll have any issues as that pump isn't going to be pressurizing that to any great extent but I'd do it all proper anyways just to make it a good habit. Having installed irrigation systems a blowout blows. Any dope, liquid or tape, is just lubricant for the threads. It might provide a little seal but it's the tapered threads that provides a seal. I prefer tape. Quick and easy and always around don't have to worry about chemicals going bad or separating or whatever as all chemicals seem wont to do after the years.
Ted nice install i install and service those daily. The only thing I recommend is a water filter even if the water is not that hard, it will pro-long the life of the machine greatly. The other question why do you stock so many sman gauge manifolds?
If you worked with chemicals you wouldn't be bad mouthing Blue Block. And it is a thread sealant otherwise you could put neverseize on everything. Specially steam lines. Love your videos.
I always go with follow the manufacture's instructions. And for any other answers call them. Like Ted Cook they want the customer to be happy. The shop is looking much better.
The only thing I see you need is to change the plug to a GFCI and a good water filter for the ice, O yes and once a month flip it over to wash, and then wash it out with a mixture of baking soda and water to get rid of mold in it.
Take the 24v from the condensate pump to the 24v circuit of the ice machine and wire in a fuse so it will pop the fuse before the transformer but it’ll shut off the systems controls.
The pan was a good idea I would also install this..... FLS-SS-FS1-4C-V4-WT its a flood stop automatic water shutoff. I can give you the link if you want it, I didn't want to post a link without permission.
Not sure but could not rotate the unit so it’s facing out beside the shelves? Is there a floor drain in the bathroom could you run a drain into Bathroom?
