You're missing a rubber for the top that sits on the water pump, And a bolt that goes in the back. It's best to always change the bottom seal to keep water out of the lower. just my two cents.
JP, thank you so much. I will follow your advice, there was no rubber seal in the kit I purchased; however with alpha 1 Gen2 kit,I do remember a rubber seal that gets pushed down from shaft on to the pump cover. I will look in the manual. Thanks again !!
JP, I checked for this lower unit, there is no rubber for top, some other outboards do use rubber seal. Here is a link from Crowly's Marine: www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/11209_210.cfm?mdl=3IMITJ
@@FKCamVlogs after my installation it pumped water for about an hour and then stopped. after inspecting the gasket was blown off/ripped outside the housing, do you know what would cause this?
@@FKCamVlogs I managed to get my pump together like you demonstrated; however, getting the lower unit back in place was another story. Other video show the same motor with a hose connected to a fitting at the shift box. Mine did not have the hose and neither did yours, but the connector is there. I have no idea where to connect it to the motor even if I put one on. Any ideas? Secondly, getting the shift rods to match up is next to impossible. You seem to bypass that step. The inner mate moves around and you can't see in there if they are matching up. How did you get that done?
@@martiwf0 It's a plastic tubing. I left mine attached to the upper housing. Check yours it must be attached to upper housing. If the unit doesnt go in easily, match the spines by slightly spinning the prop, that should it.
I never took it to OC. Also if your boat is same as mine, be sure to check underdeck foam, it gets soaked with water, penetrating somehow, and makes the boat heavy, meaning more weight. I drilled two 4" holes on each side like 12 to 15" away from transom, removed some of foam and now I am able to pump the water out.. It accumulates when it rains. To test see if your boat sits heavy on one side.
Hello. Thanks for all your great videos. I have a 2004 Proline 22ft Walk Around. I love the boat but I feel like it might be getting waterlogged. When i check the bilge it would be almost dry but as i accelerate and the bow is high in the air, water then goes toward the back to the bilge pump. This leads me to believe that there is a belly in the boat that holds water while boat is just sitting. I am also concerned about the foam core getting waterlogged. Can you please give me some more of your thoughts on this matter? What issues have you run into and how did you correct them?
@@jeremyrocks9025 First if I was you I will snake the drain that runs from cuddy to bilge, sometimes little clog holds the water and when the bow inclines it pushes the water (just my thought, happened to me) The foam under the main floor stays dry in my boat but then under that floor there is another compartment that has foam and that is the bottom of boat. I drilled 4 inch holes on each side by transom and removed some of the foam. Now when water accumulates there I hand bilge it out. This water gets there when it rains, its not the salt water. I am looking into getting a floor diagram from proline but I be honest their customer service sucks. I am thinking getting a snake camera and running it though. As of now hand bilging when needed is the answer.
I looked at by boat to see where rain water might be getting under the deck. Here are some ideas. Bow anchor compartment should be sealed watertight. There is a drain but it is not located in the low point causing water to collect. If it leaks it will find its way under your deck. Check the deck access covers. I have 2 round 8 inch round access covers and the gaskets were gone. Water went down under the deck every time it rained or or when I rinsed the boat. Try butyl tape for a seal. It has a watertight seal but can be removed for access. Also my rod holders in my gunnel didn't have caps allowing rain water. The hatch doors under the rear seats leak when it rains too. Question, Did you drill the 4" holes under the rear seats? My batteries are there. I was thinking of drilling a hole on each side from the bilge area, horizontally but close the hull so any trapped water drain out. I would install 1/2 plug theaded plug just like the one at stern of boat. I can even put ball vaves on each side
Hi, I removed my lower unit following your video, mine is the 200HP, when I removed it 4 washers fell out and im not sure where they go, sorry 5 fell out, one is the size of a 50 cent piece and the other 4 are smaller, would you happen to know where they go or how I can find out? Thanks so much!!
I saw this video which he used rtv, not quite sure if you're suppose to use it. I have a black max xr4 150hp which i planning on work on it this spring and it'll be my first time too. Kinda worry if I should use rtv or not
@@712LifePersonal I am not sure about the video you saw, but in my video description I have a Crowley's Marine diagram that shows the sequence of installation for gaskets and other parts. All gaskets come premade in kit. Hope this helps, if I miss anything please inform.
I know this is an old video, but the lower housing looks melted and appears it was in need of replacement, may contribute to the weak stream you have. YMMV
Hey have you ever done the poppet valve on your mercury I have the same motor live in Maryland just bought a boat Ends up being the same exact boat that you have going through changing thermostats and everything I want to change the poppet valve but can’t find it and having a hard time figuring it out
Hey wanted to tell you I found it it is behind the wiring harness on the bottom very easy job you just need to separate the cowling 4 Bolts Haven’t ordered test today yet but it only talk about an hour and a half the bolts to the cowling where the longest to get out
Just doing it as preventative maintenance “ I found it under wire harness on rt side remove 3 or 4 bolts wiring harness rolls out of the way and 4 Bolts on the poppet valve all in all should’ve taken about 40 minutes took an hour and a half
What sort of grease did you use? White lithium, or does it matter? Also, it seems mine had some sort of silicone sealant around the housing where the lower unit meets the upper unit. You didn't show adding any sealant...is this not necessary?
From the looks of your lower unit this motor has sat quite a while in salt water... I purchased a new motor which was basically a 150 geared to 135 (I won’t get into why)... take out your thermostats if you have not already and soak them in CLR I’m sure they are nasty.
It 1:14 you said you put it in the gear . What gear do you put it in ? There is a revere and a forward gear . Why is it that every video I have watched including this one the camera is cut off and restarts after its almost all the way in ? At 10:16 you stop the video not showing it going in and you start the video again at 10:17 and magically its almost all the way in . What went on during the time you cut the video ? Everyone say that putting it back in is the hardest part but no one shows it being done . Would you please make a video of exactly what you had to do to get it back in place and don't stop the video ?
Steve if foward movement in your boat is right rotation then put in forward. Having it in gear helps to align the spines when you insert the lower unit into the upper housing. If drive dont go in, you can move the prop a little to rotate the shaft. Let me know if this makes sense. If not use my email from the about section of my channel and connect. I will be more than happy to explain more.
@@FKCamVlogs Is there anything else that has to line up as its being put back together ? If you made a mark on the bottom of the shaft once its out and you line the shaft back up to the line you made wouldn't it fit right back in ? Why did you stop the video and cut the part out of you putting it back in ? What was going on that you had to stop the filming or edit it out ? It happens on every video on youtube no one so far has left the camera going and showing it fit right back in . They all do the same thing you did . Why is that . That makes me worry about if I can do it or not . Will you make a video that shows the shaft going in with out editing the video ? I would like to just see one person do this . Watch this video at 16:21 He talks about having to manipulate the shift rod . You didn't say anything about this in your video . Why did you leave that part out ? If you notice even in this video the camera cuts the part where it goes in place and it comes back on once its in place . What do you do to manipulate the shift rod . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OuilMAOMpgQ.html
Are you referring to blue color gasket looking part?? If yes, then its the plastic base plate for the impeller. If you search my channel, I have another video on how to replace that.
You should really put the lower unit in a barrel of water to see if your pump is actually working. You are putting water pressure to the system with a garden hose, which doesn’t prove your pump is working. You should change this. Thank you...Dennis
Thank you Dennis ! You are right barrel is great option but pump does pick water from muffs not as much as in barrel, water comes from all outlets, including the "pee" when thermostats opens up, plus I did a in water test.
If you hook up a garden hose with muffs and get water to come out of the pee hole without starting the engine you've got one HELL of a water system at your house.
Sorry man it wasnt up to your expectations. This was my first outboard swap. I usually worked on I/O, and the shaft seal is a must on I/O, it must be seated properly using a special tool. Another thing you didnt mention is the silicone beads on exhaust plate. I welcome all comments, I dont take none personally, criticism helps to improve. Thank you for your time to view and comment.
