I'm glad this video was helpful to you! I will say, while you absolutely can do it by yourself, if you can get a second pair of hands to at least help with getting those panels and roof skin in place it'll be a lot less stressful! Good luck!
A second thought, is the idea of setting the structure on the ground. Much like cars do. The purpose is to fit, in a standard size garage door. Youre pretty good at that camper construction. Keep up the good work
I guess maybe I'm not understanding what you mean fully. You can fit some campers into normal garages, but this one is too tall for most garage doors. If I had a garage that wasn't built in 1917 I would have probably considered maybe removing the springs and axle and putting on rollers to move it inside to work on it.
In short, my meaning is to modify the frame with a "C" notch to allow the camper frame to literally sit on the concrete. As some cars do. Its not practical, but for a photo booth it could offer a handicap access that otherwise would not have. Also, with the option of a drop frame camper. You might be able to fit it in a standard garage opening.. Hopefully that adds clarity. @@TrailerTrashtoTreasure
Oh I think I understand. Some campers do have a notched frame to create a kind of foot well in the middle part. It makes sense in a camper, but I find a flat floor to be preferable in a photo booth--there's no step up for people to trip over. That does mean you have to have a step for people to climb up to actually get inside the camper, but I've never had a person that wanted to use it that hasn't been able to climb inside. I do have some thoughts on step design that I might cover in a future video.
Well...ok! That is one way to do it. The Roberts 2'n'1 or similar product is a good barrier as is Tyvek. I also use EternaBond tape under the metal & between the metals @ the seams, and all seams and edges. Don't pie cut roof edge. Straight cut and overlap the lower edge. I try to double seal all overlaps and overlap the sides, too. Any construction technique that can minimize moisture intrusion should be employed.
I mean sure, you can put EternaBond wherever you want and it might help, but I've never seen a leak come from a seam that hasn't been damaged, and the solution there is to repair/replace the panel with the damaged seam. I don't really think overlapping the relief cuts is going to help much with anything, and I would actually recommend getting a hand-notcher for more consistent results. The big thing on your roof overlap is that you've got all those screw holes that need the butyl seal to keep water out. Ultimately, the original methods of construction worked pretty well, and I don't see any real benefit to doing things differently. Certainly some things were done just to make things quicker to build or cheaper to make, but the basic designs and methodology is pretty sound.
Interesting. So, I'm doing my camper to use as She Shed in my yard. I'll have power for lights but no water. Tennessee so hot in summer, cold in winter. Would you add insulation?
My wife is from northeast Tennessee! I would probably insulate with fiberglass; although, as thin as the walls of a camper are, you can't expect too much from whatever you do.
Man, it makes me sad how you sourced the panels. Like, happy for you, but sad for the rest of us. I've been waiting for this video (skinning vintage camper). I'm not starting with an existing camper. I'm building from plans (scratch) and one of the last remaining questions I had was where to source material that was vintage appearing. Though, seeing how it's done, perhaps that's enough to go off of. The lift is brilliant! It looks really good!
Ha ha, well you could always contact a local sheet metal company and see if they could manufacture some panels for you out of .032" aluminum with all the appropriate locks, but I was fortunate that I could show my dad the original skins and he could replicate it from that. Here's a list of sheet metal suppliers from a Facebook group I'm in: -ATOMICCAMPERPARTdotCOM Chattanooga, TN- BESTWAYTRAILER.COM - Utah HEINTZDESIGNS.COM - Florida HEMETVALLEYRV.NET - California INTERSTATE METAL - Oregon THEMETALCOMPANY.COM - Arvada, CO AIRPARTS.COM MACS ALUMINUM - Bristow, OK I actually ordered the top skin from Hemet Valley RV, and the process was pretty easy, and Steve was really helpful in taking measurements and handling the freight shipping. I'll probably just order skin in the future from a vendor that's closer to me and take a trailer to pick it up. I've known people that have had good experiences with Mac's Aluminum in Barstow and The Metal Company in Arvada. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Where did you buy the aluminum skin from ??? I would like to know because me and my wife have got a similar travel trailer we got from our labor and we need to reskin it and rehab it
I got an "insider" deal on the side skins, but the top skin came from Hemet Valley RV in California. Here's a list of sheet metal suppliers you might want to look up: BESTWAYTRAILER.COM - Utah HEINTZDESIGNS.COM - Florida HEMETVALLEYRV.NET - California INTERSTATE METAL - Oregon THEMETALCOMPANY.COM - Arvada, CO AIRPARTS.COM MAC'S ALUMINUM - Bristow, OK
Sometime ago, you'd mentioned the "hi-traffic" your entryway gets and you had considered re-enforcing that area. Im not sure if I saw anything in your frame construction. Did I miss it?
I modified the chassis boards in the area to be twice as thick; although, that also meant having my welder move some of the mounts on the chassis to accommodate the wider boards.
Hey… I’m rebuilding a 1971 Shasta compact, and I’m almost to the point of adding the aluminum skin. After I add the insulation, should a person add a vapor barrier, and if so, what type( just the stuff you wrap a house in?)? Thanks Jeff
I've been told (by Larry at Mobiltec) that Roberts Unison underlayment is the stuff to use. It's most important under the roof wrap mostly so that any condensation that might form under the skin won't drip directly onto your insulation and then your paneling, but you can use it around the sides too. It adds a little cushioning and a little sound deadening as well, and it's translucent so you can see where you're tacking it to. www.homedepot.com/p/ROBERTS-100-sq-ft-Unison-Premium-2-in-1-Underlayment-70-025/100541278
I assume this is in reference to the previous video? On the Square D 30A box the neutral is floating, but yes it cannot be stated enough that the neutrals are not bonded to ground as in a primary panel.
Is there a name for the pattern on the skins? My brother in law is trying to find these for me through his work (steel welding) and is having a hard time sourcing it
Well I'm no metal worker, but the lines are called brakes because they're made with a metal brake. You'll also want a Pittsburgh seam on the bottom edge of your top panel for the lower panel to slide into and keep water out. My dad custom formed these panels from .032 aluminum through his old workplace, but if you go through a place the deals in rv siding they'll know exactly what you need, and they'll probably have standard siding types on hand.
It's called a Pittsburgh seam. The bottom edge of the top panel is formed into sort of an S-shape, and the top edge of the bottom panel slides up into it. The top panel is stapled down along the tail of the seam and then the bottom panel covers those staples so it's water tight. The bottom panel is just stapled around its outer perimeter and along the window and door openings which get covered up when everything's installed.
Oh shoot, like a week maybe. It's slow going for sure. But I could see someone with some experience and without thinking about filming it doing it in two or three full days.
Oh you got a project I'm sure, but once you know how they're built and how they come apart they're pretty easy to fix. The hardest part is keeping up the momentum to get them finished.
You're looking for 1/4" crown staples. You don't want to use ones that are so long they'll punch through your walls, so I'd try to find the short ones, like 5/8" or 3/4" or so.
Um... I mean, not to put too fine a point on it, but yes. Lol But seriously, I can't think of a reason why you would, or really how you even could. If you're going to go to the trouble and expense of buying new skins, do yourself a favor and take off the old ones before you put the new ones on.
Completely disagree on the insulation part my friend. Go to Lowes of Home Depot and get Reflectix silver insulation. It works amazing on stopping much of the “Radiant “ heat that cooks through the Aluminum or metal skin. I’ve done it on 2 sprinter vans . Before doing it. You can feel the heat from the sun cooking through the metal skin. To the point of not being able to touch it as well as intense radiant heat for about 16” down from the ceiling. After installing the Reflectix . Almost no radiant heat at all , and you can hold your hand on the roof metal on the inside- where before you could not. Stop the radiant heat- keep your camper much much cooler. I’m in the process of rebuilding a 1969 lil hobo camper from frame up, and i will use the Reflectix stuff on it as well it is super easy to install and works amazing. I understand about Radiant heat and what it can do as I’ve been a firefighter for over 20 plus years. Best to you all.
So my response to you is kinda complicated and would probably make a better video, so I'm just going to say that I don't necessarily disagree with you, but I still stand by what I said in this video. I'll also point out that I see most van builders installing reflectix incorrectly. Per the manufacturer's instructions, make sure to leave at least a 3/4" gap between the relectix and the skin or you lose most of it's R-value. And a final note, R-value is not the whole story here. Thanks for watching!
I had thought about doing the whole thing with my router, but in the end I just used it to clean up some of the edges. The thing I don't like about routing it out is all the chips it makes that need to be cleaned up. I found that using the shears to get close at first and then doing the final pass with the router worked well and reduced the chips and heat on the bit (just like when you use a pattern bit with wood), but with a little bit of practice I found I could get right up to the edges with the shears and barely needed the router for most of it.
