Another super video. I was especially interested because of your approach to the windows. I have an enclosed cargo trailer too but it came with a cheapo fanlight already installed. No need to cut a hole in the roof it was already there. I used a Livpro remote control unit. Half the price of Max Air or Fantastic and just as good. I was in a hurry when I converted mine and did not do windows whrn it was strpped down. Ever since I have been putting it off. Your method made me feel that I can do it. I was going to use verticals 16" across because that is the width between steel posts. Now I fancy a bigger widow on the horizontal same as you have done. I think the key is the wood frame. So glad I found you. Came for the profile stuff and stayed for the rest. Thanks
If you are considering adding solar panels to the roof, was it necessary to measure first before installing the fan with consideration to the placement of solar panels?
Hey guys I’m really enjoying y’all’s videos. My wife and I are in the planing phase of building out a cargo trailer. The RV industry is absolutely littered with junk unless you pay $60k and up for a niche maker. I’m confident I can build out a better trailer that fits our needs better than anything I’m going to find on the RV market. Keep up the great content!
You are off to a good start. I like the way you did your windows. You lose a little insulation value but gain plenty of support and strength all around the windows. I purchased the exact same Maxx Air fan. What size are your windows?
Thanks 👍 I agree on the insulation. That's one reason we went with smaller windows. They are 24x15." Here's the link (affiliate). Looks like they are out of stock on Amazon but you can also get them from RecPro directly. geni.us/LNdBEN
Question. Why not leave the interior paneling as is, cut through the exterior, the stud, the paneling, and just install the window through that already existing structure?
I think Carl is right. After fitting the fan, you show both windows, and it looks like they are mirrors of eachother. The window should be installed so where the panes slide is protected as you drive down the road. It looks like you have a left/right pair, but installed on the wrong sides so both are inviting leaks. But nice job stepping into the unknown on this project, and sharing your experiences!
That was strange . . . your not suppose to drill holes in the window, it's suppose to be held in from the inside by screwing the ring to it so it's CLAMPED to the trailer wall. The ring is suppose to go over your finished surface which maybe you did later, I would have to watch more videos to see. Someone else cut and bent the metal exactly the way you did.
Yea we looked into this! It seems that a few things prevented me from doing it like you suggest. 1) RV walls these windows go in are much thinner so the clamp makes sense. 2) I couldn't find any rings! The suppliers at the time were all sold out of pretty much EVERYTHING including windows so we settled with what we got. 3) I bough one window from Amazon that had a ring and it literally didn't stay attached at all. Anyway I said screw it and drilled it on there hahah
@@diycargotrailer Yeah, make do and make it work. The manufacturer of my trailer did it wrong. Instead of making the wall thicker around the window they use a ton of calking. Looks funny but I wont fix it for a while. Maybe the calking will start looking bad and then I will have to deal with it . . .
@@hikerJohn There are some windows that flat out won't allow this in a cargo trailer, so drilling the screws was the best solution. Honestly, relying on just the trim to hold the window feels quite sketchy as well.
Very frustrating to watch videos like this that exclude critical steps, while showing details of common sense aspects. Like how, for instance did you cut away the center section of the stud without damaging the outer skin?
