A lot of folks don't know anything about water and drainage and end up with a leaky, moldy basement. It looks to me like you are doing yours' exactly right. That basement looks like it's going to be nice and dry as they should be.👍🏻👍🏻
Not one of the more glamorous jobs but very important. Hard work but you will be glad you took the time when you see how dry your basement is inside. Doing a great job and great progress so far. Let's hope the weather cooperates with you this winter and doesn't hinder your progress.
Wow! From the look of your clay soil, I can see why you need to do this French drain technique. We lucked out. Our walk-in foundation was set up and poured in a former excavation site, that was done by the state to remove gravel for a local road project. Thats right, we managed to set the foundation directing into amazing, well drained gravel. We were grateful! Basic black tar on the foundation gave us a dry basement. You are doing a great job of making sure your foundation has all the bases covered. Doing most of this build yourself means that you both know exactly what went into your project. That is what we had to do as well...
@@awd3264, That's exactly what I have been trying to tell people. If the holes are on the top, that trench would have to have 5-6'' of sitting water in it to start working. So nice to see someone with common sense. Thank you.
Excellent designing! Good roof gutters and final landscape grading away from the foundation will ensure youll never have to test the system unless you have below grade ground water movement. Then you've probably already made plans for a sump pump system below your slab...
Your county requires a lot more for your foundation drain than our county does. Ours was only a drain pipe sock and 6 inches of any type of gravel. I guess it depends on the area and how much rain they think your house will get around the foundation. Nice work, you shouldn't have to worry about that pipe getting clogged any time soon. :)
you guys been working hard I been following you all for a while now......looks like you need few beers after all that hard work i'll drink a few for ya!
Know nothing about any of this but yes i found it interesting and learned a little about french drains no use for me in future but nice to watch and learn man every vlog just a little closer to your dream way to go
That's a huge task checked off the list. Congratulations! Will you concrete the lower floor before pouring the upper story? You probably already said this and I missed it or I've forgotten. Apologies.
That clean out will be hard to use since you have used a TEE fitting. The snake has nothing to turn it in the direction of the horizontal pipe as it is a sharp 90 degree bend. You might want to look into a two way sewer clean out. There are two risers each on there own WYE fitting. Something to look into if you haven't already back filled.
Can you explain how the clean-out pipe works? If you have a sock over the perforated pipe, very little sediment would get into the pipe. Are we to think that you would force a snake down into the line? I don't see how the snake would make that 90 degree turn.
Ideally you would have two cleanouts side by side, and instead of a simple T, use TY's, one going in one direction, other going in the other direction so snaking is much easier to direct.
Thanks for spending the time on the videos! You present very well. The clean out is an awesome idea. do you have to lay rigid foam horizontally at the front on the foundation to prevent frost from creeping under your footings ? Keep up the great work!
Arnold Romppai your opinion is noted, it’s my opinion that it would be a waste of time and resources, as the frost line in their area is about 1’, budget and time do not dictate such a concern.
With a house that has dirt on all 4 sides, How far out from the footer do you run the french drain? Should it extend 5 ft then end into a "gravel pit" should you run it into a bucket with a sump pump?
I salute you - .... how the f did our ancestors survive and why are we still here :) ...........without inspectors! BTW my home is > 200 years old in parts and it's grand lol x I don't think somehow the inspections back then were quite so thorough! Yet here I am 13 years later after buying it, enjoying my home! x I wish you well in yours :)
Jereme ,can't u use ur solar power to hook up some string work lights ( 20"x17" light ) I had a couple of them but can't remember the exact name for them ...I always called them 'my work lights ' lit up everything like day lite ,wonderfully !!! Just a thought ...I know all that work is very hard n tiring on a person !!!
@@Guildbrookfarm hey quick question. I'm doing one of these next weekend in iowa. Multiple people have told me to lay it on the footing and not beside. What are your thoughts?
Awesome job!! Almost done, not really but this part is done:) Can you both make a video saying the steps that you both had to do, the different inspectors at different times of the stages, and what’s next, with those inspectors and steps? Also Jaime, can you do videos with water bath canning? I recently bought one and I’m disappointed I can’t do meats in them (found out after I bought it). Is it just for pickling? Have a great day/week Jaime and Jeremy!!
Tony Grimes, wow!! It’s called communicating with a RU-vidr, their experiences. And I was inspired to try pressure cooking (but got a different thing) and prepping by Jaime. Yes I have looked around. I’m not lazy!!! I just wanted to learn from someone who won’t show/say “this is the way!” when the method looks questionable. Anyways...... have a good night/good day..
Question: I know there is a black perforated pipe covered in black drain cloth but it is corrugated and somewhat flexible, is there an advantage to using the rigid pipe? Or is the black corrugated pipe not appropriate that deep underground?
august Sorry for any confusion, he didn't use the pipe I described I just know it is a product that you can buy and I was curious if there was a reason to use one style over the other.
@@inmyimage1081, No Problem ! I usually use those pipes that have perforations all around the entire pipe and are socked for curtain drains behind retaining walls but they can be used for foundations in some places. I'm not sure why it wasn't used here ? Code ?
august Thx, was wondering if it was a functional, structural strength of the pipe or code. I know Jeremy reads the messages so hopefully he'll chime in.
Those black pipes are very flimsy compared to PVC. They’re made for landscape drainage but many people use them for foundation drains and it will pass code in many areas. I would never use the black pipe under more than a foot or two of backfill. It will eventually collapse.
Hi there. I was wondering if there is an alternative to hilti gunning the dimple board to the foundation as I'd rather not risk any cracks. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm redoing my perimeter drains this week! Thanks in advance
Probably earning money with artwork as well as cleaning and washing and preparing meals so others can do the build in clean sets of clothing each day with a full belly. Living out there in nowhere is no easy task.
Holes should be on the bottom. As water level rises, water enters in through the holes and there is still enough solid surface in the pipe for the water to flow in the pipe and you need the slope to get the water moving in that direction..
All the foundations I put in were level on the bottom and top, all the gravel we put below our pipe was level with the foundation so was all the pipe, was told by engineer that the rock bed would drain the water away from foundation and the pipe would help it flow faster, like the vent pipe we installed on all of the sewer lines we installed, we never installed vent lines on these pipe. A 40 x40 foundation would have 160’of perimeter drain at 1/4”per foot. You would have a ditch 3 feet + of depth below the start or if you started in middle you would have a slope over a foot and a half. You would put a 1’6” bed of gravel under the pipe to slope it to the sump??? You ever done that?
Jeremy, I know that you were very hesitant to be your own general contractor, but you are doing fantastic! Clearly, you have studied each and every step you need to take, and you are showing them to us. This is very valuable information for anyone building their own home. And since you are doing it yourself, you know it has been right and well. Thanks again!
I would back fill with gravel, will stop any heave from the surrounding clay pushing on the ICF walls and help drainage away from the walls. The hydrostatic pressure exerted by the clay is massive every wet session.
GREAT JOB‼️👍 Most importantly is to keep the back fill out of the gravel. Maybe tape with Gorilla tape the cover cloth to the wall so the soil doesn't get behind the cloth as you are back filling. You have done a great job on what most people just half ass it. Looks like you will stay dry‼️👍👍. GOOD LUCK,. VINNY 🇺🇸
Man that's a lot of hard work and this is all the crazy stuff you have to do before you get to the good stuff but it's necessary. You did a good job and I'm sure that you're glad that is over with now what a really feel good is when you backfill around that basement and then you can go on to doing the pretty part building the house. Be safe :-)
okay crazy question, but shouldn't the drain extend beyond the house?? Just wondering thanks! hope you had a good thanksgiving. maybe you answered that already, anyway enjoying your house build,
There seems to be some debate over the need to have the sock over the pipe? Some folk suggest no sock but have 2 layers of membrane further away from the pipe. I know you did not do this, but do you think it would be better?
it depends on the code I guess, here to be up to code you need a sock, but the membranes he uses are not valid with the code (the french drain must lay in free gravel)
What size roll of non woven did you use? I assume you burrito it then more gravel on top of the burrito and another layer of the fabric on top as well?
