THANK YOU for this video!!!! We are doing my Son’s Mazda speed 3 and were wondering if we were to put gasket maker on the side for the flywheel, which is no! Your video was very informative! 🤘🏼😝🤘🏼
Nice job, Ahmed! There is a transmission mount with three 17mm bolts at the flywheel end of the oil pan. If anyone is having issues putting the new pan in, remove the bolts to the mount so you can push it out of the way. If not, it may appear the pan isn't going to fit.
How do you avoid shearing off all the RTV when this is installed tight on both sides? (hence the mallet taping around minutes 9-10). It's such a weird design that Mazda didn't overlap the pan to timing cover seam the other way... IE, make that a horizontal instead of vertical seam.
Yes indeed, very weird design, but it seems taping the pan into place works beautifully, I have no leak so far. In a few weeks, I am going to remove the gearbox and send it to a place to change all bearings and seals inside which will expose the oil pan gearbox side and it will be also my chance to reinstall the pan properly while the gearbox is out. I will also change the clutch kit along with the pilot bearing and the main rear seal. Cheers
Ahmed, please pin the comment, so people know that this is a faster way to do it (rather than taking out the engine mount, V-belt, and timing cover) but not necessarily a permanent solution. I will still try this today (16-dec.-2023), on my "2007 - MAZDA 6 MPS", and I will let you guys know after a couple months how it turned out.
It is not hard at all, remove all bolts, there are 3 groups of bolts, the first group is many bolts holding the pan to the engine block, from bottom to top, the second group 4 small bolts holding the cam cover to the pan, direction from left to right as you are looking at the car from the front, and the third group holding the gearbox to the pan, 4 big bolts, I think 14mm and there are 2 from left to right and 2 from right to left, then you need to pray it out with flat screwdriver as it is glued in there but be gentle and try to pry a bit by bit from different points. Cheers
Hello mate, Yes I did, but I can report now that this is not the right way to install it, you must remove the gearbox to the left slightly, it started leaking 2 months after but very very little, so now I am doing the big project Removing the gearbox Change Disk, Plate, and Bearing Change Rear Main Seal Change Pilot Bearing Open Gearbox and Change all the 3 shafts bearings, 6 in total Change the noisy LSD diff, with Helical ATB Diff from Quaife, along with new bearings and oil seals Install two new front controller arms with superpro bushes in them and a stronger ball joint I started already a few days ago but removing the gearbox and suspension videos is in Arabic. However, opening the gearbox and changing all bearings inside and the diff will be in English. And certainly it is my change to seal the pan really well so I will do the pan job again Cheers
By the way, the leak that continued was from the rear main seal and not from the pan, so when I did the gearbox I changes the rear main seal, all good and it is been dry now for over a year. Cheers
