Installing the Skeg Box & More - microBootlegger Sport - E47 

One thing I really like about these videos is that you also show when things don't exactly go as planned and show how you remedy it. Thanks Nick!

Master!... Master!... you certainly live in Wonderland!... the land you have created for your own in the realm you live is a bit easier than plenty other places in this world... but not many fly so far in creativity. Congratulations from my heart, I cannot but admire your work

I really enjoy watching you work. it is very informative and does not need a lot of comment. I did give out a curse word when the edge snapped. so you did not have to.

Hi, I watch everone of your videos although I am building an Adelie 14 sail boat. But my next project might be a Bateau Mi round chine row boat and I want to strip plank the round part with plywood strips. Thats why I have ordered your book already and with this videos I am thinking staining the wood looks so nice I might also try that. But what fascinates me the most are the lot of small tricks you show us that a retired white collar worker turned hobby boat builder could never think out. This time it was how to cut a rod with a running electric drill just by holding the handsaw against it. Next time I need to cut a threaded rod I will try this trick. Good luck with the finishing of this kayak and I am looking forward to seeing the next episode. Greetings from a sunny Austria

Hi Nick, love all the videos! I just received my copy of your Retractable Sea Skeg. I have a couple of questions if you don’t mind. You place the skeg off to one side slightly, some other people I’ve watched place it in the centre, why to the side? Why use the 3 layers of 4mm plywood for the box spacers instead of one piece of 12mm plywood. P.S. the pictures are a little dark in the book, a little lighter would be great! Thanks for any advice you can give!

Can't begin to tell you how we appreciate your making the effort to create these videos! Precious as gold! Just a question, a couple of times you're warming the wet epoxy with a heat gun. Is that to drive out the bubbles?

Looks sharp Nick.

Nick - I really appreciate the care and effort you put into your boats and your videos - thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge! I have a question - when you cut the hole in the hull for the skeg box, why didn't you use the router and a jig like you did for the hole in the deck for the skeg slider?

Excellent as usual!!! Just curious! Why did you place the skeg box off center? I don’t see how it would affect tracking but it looks -off center-...

Noticing, Nick, how you use the squeegees on the inside/outside of the deck and hull (I believe to get the glass right up against the wood strips and to eliminate any excess epoxy), but on the not-so large or flat areas (like the coaming) you only use the paint brush and tamp it down with the epoxy. Is there any difference as to how the glass behaves in either application? Any advantage or weaknesses to the final product that either method produces? Thanks and beautiful work.

Nick, good afternoon. Great, this video helped me a lot. Great job. Beautiful music. :-)

Using hot melt glue to hold down the router template looks like a huge timesaver, especially once you're routing all the deck fittings. Have you done it enough to be confident in the strength? Packing tape is reliable, but time consuming and sometimes tricky.

Hi Nick, I'm struggling to find the SS tubing in Australia. Are the ones you are using 304 or 316 marine grade?

Please excuse my ignorance on some of the nautical nomenclature, the “skeg” box is something I am not familiar with. I have been enjoying the journey of the build, and my one experience in a kayak was a plastic walmart special on a pond. Me being landlocked in the midwest that is. There was no skeg on my banana, now I realize this comparing a dixie cup to a work by Michelangelo, so no slur intended by any means. More or less a fixed rudder that is retractable? Is it something more for open water on the ocean? Thanks again for sharing!

Hi Nick, The devil is in the detail isn't it! thanks for showing it, the little details helps a lot! in understanding where the strengths are needed and how to get there. When you glassed the skeg box and the coaming you overlapped the tape a little... are you going to trim the glass at the tape edge ?? Thank you again for the great informative videos.

Really enjoyed the episode Nick. I use a white board in the shop to remind me of all the small bits that need epoxy, so I don’t forget something and add Another day to the job. Where do you get your squeeze bottles for the alcohol? Thx

Great series really enjoyed it and learned a lot just a quick question concerning the skeg box is there a reason you didn’t put it dead center in the Hull instead of offset as you did?

Quick question regarding the skeg control slot, and it may be a dumb question at that. I didn't see you glass the inside of that slot. You did glass over the back side. I assume the control slots are pre made (by you?). Is the fiberglass already on the inside or do you rely on epoxy alone? And do you have a video on how to make them?

Hi Nick, one question how do I calculate the right position of the skeg on the kayak

Thanks for showing the breaking of the edge banding on the cheek plate; it happens even to the masters! Sand it down and start again. Just out of curiosity, is that maple? How thick are those bits of wood?

Nick just a question about fillet when you have applied it how long are you leaving cure before you do any overcoating with matt and resin? is it still soft or semi firm?

Details, hate doing them, love looking at them..

Here's a fun fact: Your last name means Damage, in Dutch... Great work though! Looks really good!

hi nick. my name is Shane Blankenship. im from Newnan Ga, 40 miles south of Atl. im a 35 year carpenter and i really love the video`s. im going to build my son one of these. he`s a war veteran and works for the core of eenginers. my question is what is the function of the skeg box?