This is one of the best instructional videos I've ever seen on RU-vid. Superb work, I will suggest it to all my climbing students. Thanks for your work!
An amazing video great work! Thank you. Finally someone who has good camera placement good simple instructions and doesn't rush through anything. Thank you.
Glad you guys are not over serious about putting out climbing instructional vids or I would be out of business. Yours is one of the better ones maybe not as good as mine but still pretty good.
As an Instructional Designer, I find that the instructional component combined with the video production has got quite o lot of good elements. The instructional I see as a good overview that could be broken down into specific element. In general though I Iike what you have produced.
I'm not one to needlessly criticise youtube vids, on the whole this one was good but I did notice at about 5:50 where he places the hex, he clips the crab with the gate facing into the rock. There's a small but genuine risk of the gate opening on contact with the rock in a fall, reducing the strength of the crab to about 1/3 of normal.
The anchor which is "about as good as it gets" has zero redundancy. If the rock moves, the gear fails, or some other calamity happens (which they do), the anchor will fail, which is a real drag for everyone involved.
+Ryan Reese I think he's referring to the anchor as a "placement", meaning a single natural feature that's not going to move, like a huge boulder or stout tree. As far as a belay anchor, you are correct, there's no redundancy in that single sling and it could be easily backed up by slinging your lead rope around the boulder as well.
At 8:25 you place a knot in the sling which only serves to increase the V angle and weaken the sling. Is there some other reason to put the knot in that sling?
You should make more videos. I agree with the aforementioned sentiments that most vids on here are crapola. How about rappelling and anchor building? Nicely done.
I have a climbing friend that says its not best to jerk down hard on the nut a coupe of times adbruptly after placing it and says its better to just pull downwards smoothly. I tried explainng how that wont work well the same as pushing a nail down with a hammer rather than hitting wont wedge it fully into place. Any comments to help him understand guys?
Nice primer on placing pro, although...do you guys never use extendable alpine draws (runners)? Also, is it common place to belay off of a single anchor like that? Granted, both the boulder and the spire were pretty solid, but not redundant...
What you are saying is correct , but anchor redundancy, construction or general belaying tecnique was not the main topic of the video, so they just ocused on the actual placement. And for the draws, well, an alpine draw offer many advantages, but many times it's not mandatory at all
What if you reach a point where there is no cracks, like almost smooth surface and you're really high up? Time to go down or is there a workaround? Sorry, I obviously don't know shit about climbing. I just saw the movie Meru and I was fascinated at how they did it towards the top where the granite were and how delicate they were. How did they do that part cause they didn't show it.
Your question touches the debates and fights between two worlds in climbing. The mentality between "traditional" (trad) and "modern" climbing. Each one follows its own principles to draw a different path up. The former uses cracks and holes and holds to place nuts or slings or wedges (not nails). If there are not such features on the rock or on the mountain, then they bypass from a different path. The later uses anything suitable enough to make it to the top by any means, even drills and chemicals and bolts. Personally, a climber myself, I believe that "modern manners" of climbing (like those I described above) should be banished by a law from the mountains and rocks. Anyone who likes to make its own way up anything, by drilling or cracking or smashing, should do it on special buildings constructed for that purpose, not on nature's structures. This issue is not theoretical anymore but practical. Thousands of climbers swarm every season on mountains and rocks.
@@SavvasHiker Good luck banning single pitch sport all over the world. It's an entirely different sport that wouldn't exist if there weren't drilled anchors in the rock. By that logic we should also ban trails, roads, signs, houses and everything that it's in the mountains and it's artificial. The issue is not white or black and putting bolts in a rock in the mountains is not as destructive as many outdoors activities we see as normal.
It was for a belay....good idea in that case I'd say although he should have had some redundancy on that piece. If he had been climbing past it though he would have been much better off just girth hitching the whole rock. and not putting that 8 in it.
At 9:30 - where in the world did you learn to belay? You release your hand from the rope and use the other hand! WRONG. One always should reach above the belay hand and slide it back never letting go of the rope. Good video but wrong belay technique.
Pull, Brake, Under, Slide (PBUS) is not the standard technique in Sweden. Switching hands (while always having at least ONE hand on the brake rope) is considered safe.
