Insulated Studs? This is a BIG Innovation in Framing! 

Thanks Craig! Appreciate your support.

Contacted them already. I didn't know about the R-30. What would YOU fill the large cavity with? Foam/batt/fluff? I would be curious how the close off the joists to keep that R value.

K Tauber I don’t know who your question is directed to but I would have all run electric and water lines then spray closed cell foam. If cost is an issue then batt would be my second choice and loose fill last. I’ve seen a lot of settling with loose fill.

@@Mote78 I'm sorry, I must have hit your thread instead of a new one by mistake. It was for Matt. I too have seen settling with blown. 8" of foam seems a bit steep. ( I don't have much experience with foam) I was looking at doing a R-30 (+) addition/remodel to my house. CIFs were really expensive, so these might do the trick with the R-30 and maybe Zip-R. With the 2.0 sealing method of course.😁

what a waste of money just but for foil face 1 inch foam all around under the siding then tape the seams and around the windows

Because knowing this makes you a better conversationalist with other people. One time at an office party a small group of men stopped me and asked a house building question and I knew the correct answer (go girls). I am very girly , never would build a house but love learning. 🤔🤗

Randall Rodriguez ... because it was interesting

learn something, dude!!!! don't be lazy and start shedding those pounds!!!

@@Edmund_Mallory_Hardgrove AI isn't real

@@juliherron8991 You go, (girly) Girl! Looks can only take you so far, but a girl/woman with an interest in, and curiosity of, many things can make life a pleasure to be with -- for decades!

LOL. No kidding. My dad (registered architect) and I framed using our own thermal break members in the '60's here in the US.

Well, when you have your balmy winters, you have to innovate. Or should I say... Finnovate.

@@vincenttavani6380 yesterday -26 degree celcius...very balmy indeed :) when writing this its only -12 so i can go out without hat :) this years record here in SOUTHERN finland -34.7 celcius

@@jkarra2334 Honestly you all just have to migrate South. We need not fight wars over the land anymore - 34.7 is hellish, if hell used cold instead of heat for the torture! Man, I have incredible respect for people living in Northern climes. I do wonder though how many would remain if they learned of ''the bus south" :-P

MAGA, lmao

See my comment here about the roll-your-own inexpensive alternative that's been done for decades.

@@farmalmta is there a simple way to find your comment among 4+ thousands of other comments??

I'm a plumber... and i came w the electrician to tag team this beezy. ..

Exactly

In northern climates the insulation between them should make your life easier. No drilling necessary, you just poke the wire through the foam, maybe use a screwdriver to make a small hole for 12/2 or 14/2. Even BX cable.

@@vinnys72gtx Why are you installing anything in the exterior walls except an occasional vent or drain? Still it's not overly difficult to avoid the dowels.

@@steven7650 bx.... Haven't heard that in a while. I can tell you're old school I like it man

One of the best replies on here. lol

That was sick

only problem if it catches fire

Fire study was done on their website. It leads to this page. static1.squarespace.com/static/59cce8bba9db0941ea92e75f/t/59d258c6a803bbde4f0bcc62/1506957510626/16-4787319376DevReport+%28002%29+UL+Testing+of+Tstud.pdf

@@johnSR32 If fire gets to the studs it over...the only concern would be the firefighters...its all about the envelop in building..dealing with the first hour for the occupants to get away safely...thats it....Oh yes I agree how healthy is your home...well thats the million dollar question.

That kinda info doesn't serve well in this sales pitch of snake oil

I'm not a firefighter but I have talked to a few that say new houses are far more dangerous than an old one. They go up so fast.

@@JSAFIXIT my understanding is that that is primarily due to the use of synthetics in furnishings

Yep, anytime I see this idiot in a video I know it's some bulls**t.

Try starting to save anyone who is going to make a mistake. First I will assume you have all of this company's data on performance, of course, right? Who could make any kind of a serious comment without it? That'd just be speculation, right?

@@jasnterry1313 are you a framer also?

A thick wood beam insulates fine. They build log cabins from wood in the coldest parts of the world and have no issues. You’re bs’ing and you know it.

@@TonyMontanaOG wood is about an R value of 1.4/inch. That would make a 12 inch beam about R17. Reasonable yes, but keep that fire burning or it'll get cold. With closed cell foam at R6/inch that same 12 inches would be somewhere around R70.

Ever hear of a stud finder?

🤣🤣🤣🤣 I guess you're not a handyman at all , stud finder battery or magnet is the key to find them

Have you heard of the SuperSTUD? Accommodates up to R66 in walls. The thermal break in this stud comes with pre-drilled holes that makes plumbers and electricians say "WOW" when builders use it. WAY cheaper with inherent features that make the build so much faster/easier and MUCH more AFFORDABLE .... (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Btd1mHdossQ.html)

Hopefully the builder casually mentions the 24" spec just so the owner doesn't freak out.

Every time I use a stud finder, it points at me...

I was hoping to see this, like he did with that other house he built. Really fascinating perspective.

I too think some IR imagery comparing Tstud to conventional would be a great confirmation of the concept

IR footage: black screen probably

very much need this!

Right on. Prove it.

EXACTLY...SAME CONCEPT..NOTHING NEW

SAME AS DOUBLE WALL CONCEPT..

Sounds like you have some experience doing rot repair jobs, I agree OSB is garbage I wouldn't build a dog house with it.

Yep, OSB is the devil's own invention.

Your are SO right.. The SuperSTUD accommodates up to R66 in walls. WAY cheaper with inherent features that make the build so much faster/easier .... (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Btd1mHdossQ.html) Would value feedback

​@Hail Honkler Your are SO right.. The SuperSTUD accommodates up to R66 in walls. WAY cheaper with inherent features that make the build so much faster/easier .... (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Btd1mHdossQ.html)

Osb is great on pier and beam. I would hesitate using it on a slab

Zac M immediately caught that XD

James Shea, your comment about Clive's LED headlamp teardown just popped up on a video I am watching about engineered, internally insulated studs for building homes. I've seen this sort of thing happen before. What the heck is going on with RU-vid? Their software has got some serious bugs in it.

IF THEY DONT SPLIT!...ASK A CARPENTER

@@MD-cd7em , it's worth noting that I did not hear anyone say what type of wood they're using for these engineered studs. Probably not Doug Fir. ( The type of tree that quality "studs" come from, and no it's not some pornstars on-screen name either. If such a person did exist, of course, his motto would be "got wood, will travel.!")😁

@@MD-cd7em And split they will. Especially if they are kiln dried hem fir or yellow pine as most 2 x 3's are.

But he mighg only be able to make a 500 thousand a year their going to want millions always gonna be outa stock hes gota grow first

Lowes and home depot? No one should build a house out of a box store... higher prices in bulk and limited length availability Gotta get it into lumber yards

@@michaelbarrella3043 higher prices in bulk? Thats the opposite lol

@@jordanlittle5391 They have higher bulk prices.. Did I really need to correct that? Lol

@@michaelbarrella3043 not here they dont lol more u buy more u save contractors also get 10% off sticker

it was only a matter of time

you don't have to buy these, if ur wanna go cheap and if you don't care about the environment thats fine, ill buy them for my future home

Um, no, 2x6 and 2x8... what’s the compression strength of these T-studs vs a standard 2x what ever again?

@@JohnSmith-jz4pk how eco friendly is manufacturing and disposing of the foam ?

@@JohnSmith-jz4pk lmao what a jack ass.

No solid top plate. No fire block.

Theres fire resistant wood and foam of your will to pay for it

T-studs website has that data.

@@6milesup yes but seeing 3rd party data unrelated to the manufacturer whould be good to see

@@MFCSTUDIOS It is independent testing done by a lab in Madison, WI. Not trying to defend T-studs but all the data is there including letters of certification.

earthly firefly5 is this all you do is rip off quotes and paste them randomly on RU-vid? Must not have a life at all!!

earthly firefly5 haha ok 👌 I will continue living what I believe my life is and will be and you just continue quoting random crap and being you

This creates a moisture mold potential. Check the research at cchrc.org

@@jeffreyaderholdt2359 The building standard in Europe is insulation from the outside. The moisture issue is addressed by placing a vapor barrier around the wooden structure before any insulation is placed. And the recommended insulation thickness is pretty huge. 20 cm polyisocyanurate usually. That and the vapor barrier do a lot against moisture. Then again I'm unfamiliar with what happens in American climates with that system, so take this with a grain of salt.

External insulation is good but XPS or foil/plastic faced foam sheets (taped) are effectively a vapour barrier. The thickness required to keep the sheathing side below the dew point depends on the climate zone and the thickness of inboard insulation. Very common up here to use 1" or 1.5" exterior foam sheets over batt and 6 mil poly on the inside wall. So a double vapour barrier nono with the sheathing below the dew point in winter. It is safer to use a vapour permeable exterior insulation like rockwool board. One can use really thick foam, but then fastening siding becomes more complicated.

​@@jamesroscoe7555 From where I am, the min. required for residential exterior wall remains R-20 (6" batt will take that to R21). With the addition of 1,5"xps in front of the permeable Bldg. paper over sheathing will take that wall to R28.5 thus combat Thermal Bridging at the rim board level (2nd floor) all the way to foundation. This system is very much applied once using steel stud. 1.5" xps is not required on wood framing as per Ashrae 90.2. 90.1 can also be applied for low rise and commercial where an optional Mechanical System Performance Path allowing HVAC system efficiency tradeoffs based on TPSR. And yes, clarification to prescriptive envelope performance data tables must be met in different zone from where I am.

Did you end up using them?

@@jwm2762 I bet they're not that bad. Doesn't physically touch either the sheathing or the drywall.

Well said!

Vote for a thermal scan!

Did you check the website? I would guess that a company staking its life on thermal capability of its product might make that data available to its customers. Could be wrong. Probably aren't. Also htf could it not have a higher thermal value? You did see it right? Your not just typing blindly at a turned off monitor right?

@@JustaSimplefact why wouldnt you look before the reply? Yes when i first commented i checked the web not recently.

I am a 73 year old housewife and i also found the video to be intriguing.

$$$

It will be cheaper as wood costs rise. Which is exactly what the real goal of these are.

Only heat conducts,

How do the houses look at night? Inverse to what they look, when the sun is burning?

Definitely!

Won't be long before competitors move in to Jack up the price, or builders charging a midleman premium.

But wont the cost of drywall jump having to use 5/8s everywhere?

don't think the electrician is going to give you a price break

What sells me is the straightness compared to the lumber I can buy locally, and being able to use less expensive internal bat insulation instead of exterior foam board. Living in a part of Canada where the national retailers gouge us for crap lumber with a 30+% defect rate AND with low shipping costs from Minnesota, I can see this catching on with the custom builders. They already use a lot of engineered lumber products. The whole-subdivision builders still seem to think insulation is a communist plot.

i didn't know obama was an engineer

@@ralphchurch7 He's the engineer that got the Trump Train on track and rolling.

@@throngcleaver bahahaha...obama divided this country and engineered disaster by doubling that national debt and shipling jobs overseas. He did nothing but run up the tab. Even the plan to get Osama bin Laden was was in place by Bush, not bama!

@@ralphchurch7 I agree! But if we hadn't had such a horrible, America hating, Christian hating, gay, muslim, apologizing-to-the-world, racist shithead like B.O., Donald Trump might not have run for office. American had to hit bottom, before it could start to climb back out of the shit hole we were in, and Obama was the bottom of that hole, with the Devil herself, just below him.

@@throngcleaver good stuff, so why do you have his picture on your profile?

That's for sure , he will have a very nice retirement

Nearly every man here is basically yelling shut up and take my money! This idea is amazing, hopefully it becomes standardized and rolls out.

Not gonna happen in Canada

I dont understand how this isnt the standard here in Vancouver, as the city has been driving towards these kinds of numbers for the last 3 years. (we are framing 2x8 just to meet R-value compliance for instance)

@@nevar108 The Tstud provides that extra level for customers who are looking beyond mandates.

@@avid0g My only concern for the Vancouver market is how this material can be recycled when a house gets torn down in the future. AS of this time, 90% of a demolished home needs to go through the recycling process... spray foam is vastly frowned on as a result here. (and yes the system is flawed...)

@@nevar108 The totally obvious answer is to not recycle the studs. Reuse them. Reuse entire houses or relocate them. Why demolish?

@@avid0g I couldnt agree with you more. BUT, trying to convince the clients is something else. The actual house here in vancouver typicaly represents only 5-10% of the value of the property.... the land is the value. We have unfortunately torn down houses that are less then 6 years old, to build to a clients specification. They own the plot, they decide how they spend their money.

yeah then he just cant help appreciate how cool it is when he shows the 2x8 and hes just like "so that, thats sick" haha this guys great

Come on, now...this could save you like $12.00 per year!

None of his videos have a budget in mind.

Yeah, Matt! Come back anytime and show us how to keep warm in -40F winters! (Roseville, represent!)

@420 Friendly As someone not from Roseville would say. LOL

What is all that r value he always talking about

@@carlosj.gonzalez2648 its the thermal resistance. if a wall has high R value, it means that it can resist cold and heat very well.

@@carlosj.gonzalez2648 The R value is for resistance. The higher the number, the slower the temperature change of the inside of the house to match the outside of the house, as long as the doors and windows are closed. Oh, and barring any other large holes in the structure.

lol exactly what i was going to say.

@Dee Jay The window frames are very thin. Why spend all that money on insulated studs, but use sub par windows? These windows you can tell are double pane and should be triple pane if you are already spending a lot of extra money on the insulated studs alone. The glass is clear, and today people use lowE argon gas windows, which has a blue or sometimes green "tint" to the glass. I would expect to see a Pella wood window in a house like this.

I don't get it, hell don't really believe it. Customer wants a better more costly (labor/material cost) material, simply up the price. Sure give an opinion, but customer gets what they pay for.

I'm sorry, as usual all your studs will be pre-stressed before you buy them.

Probably not. I go to HD for wood and Lowes for everything else.

@@raywalteroutdoors I've never found a straight 2x4 at either place.

@@jeepmanxj 84 Lumber is probably the best here.

It is made from trees... they come straight from the mill, but they twist and turn as they have moisture in them and travel on trucks. People have been building with them for decades and decades. To still be complaining seems stupid.

Same

Firefighter, I also wonder about the burn ratings of the phone and whether it puts out toxic fumes when exposed to heat, even if it doesn't burn.

These are questions that MUST be addressed. Thank you for bringing attention to this.

Energy cost are more important than lives

@@64maxpower Sadly, too often true.

Burn tests have already been done. I found the after 20 painstaking seconds on google. That was about 15 seconds wasted since the information is literally linked on the front page of www.tstud.com

If the foam IS biodegradable, how do you stop it from degrading BEFORE you need to dispose of it? Sometimes the fact that nothing can eat it is a good thing. There was a class-action lawsuit about widespread rodent damage to the wiring of (Honda or Toyota, not sure which) cars because the insulation was soy based, meaning the rodents loved the taste. The repair involves wrapping the wires with special electrical tape laced with Capsaicin (what makes peppers hot, also active ingredient in pepper spray) so the rodents don't want to chew it anymore.

@@44R0Ndin Lots of things degrade when exposed to the elements, foam insulation which is generally enclosed and on the inside of things, like houses, doesn't need to be exposed.

Those foams are all UV-degradable... No biotics required, just sunlight. Cement isn't biodegradable, nor are shingles. What is your actual concern? You planning on tearing down your house every few years and throwing it away?

theres no such thing as an overinsulated house....

​@@Etacovda63 There is a thing called Return On Investment (ROI). It is possible to spend so much going in on products like this that the average homeowner would see very little on the backend in terms of all this being worth it. I bet this system adds quite a bit to the cost of a house, for what it might return. Again I think the world needs cheaper and easier to build housing, not more expensive and complex.

​@@m.kriddick2731 unless you can do a full cost benefit analysis you're guessing just as much as i would be. Its not brain surgery. Obviously theres such thing as an overinsulated house (walls dont need to be 1 metre thick). Properly designed housing doesnt even require dedicated heating. Over the lifetime of the structure that'll more than pay off.

Depends. If your HVAC doesn’t have to be as large, the savings are significant there. Or, If you spend about half on heating and cooling bills with the same HVAC you would install with traditional framing and insulation, it would be about 7 years to make up the initial cost of say around $4000 for this framing with a 2 story walk out.

@@TheGnarlyBarbell They say in the video that the cost differential is about $1500 for a 2500 sf house, which is pretty good.

Takes up more space, most tiny homes use 2x4 structures on the exterior not 2x6.

@@RadDadisRad Agreed. But since I live in a cold climate the R value seems like it would be worth it.

then the whole idea is absurd. it doesn't fix the problem it set out to achieve

​@@CaseyDesignBuild If the problem is trying to get a stud with a higher R value then they clearly achieved it.

Stephen Bonutto there are other methods to acheiving a higher r value that cost less and dont effect the structural integrity of the stud

my point is try to explain this to a client and see if they use it in their home. guaranteed they wont like the price of it and wonder why they cant build like their neighbors are building and save money. has anybody even value engineered this to see if you get a ROI on it?

Your are SO right.. SuperSTUD accommodates up to R66 in walls. WAY cheaper with inherent features that make the build so much faster/easier/affordable.... (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Btd1mHdossQ.html)

EXACTLY...NOT A NEW CONCEPT

Can you please post or PM me the company the name? I'm curious about what you are using over there and would like to look at their products. Thanks!

@steveXracer, He said an extra 1500 for a 2500 square ft house. I don't think that's 3X's ?

And can’t imagine the cost of it. Lol. Yeah. I’m in south Texas and wouldn’t consider it here either.

@J J, All walls should be R-30, ceilings should be R-60 and floors should be R-19. The higher R-Values are not just for people in Alaska fighting the cold, it's also makes a huge difference in retaining cooling in a hot climate. Homes perform much better with the higher R-Value along with Air-Sealing but should have an HRV, "Heat Recovery Ventilation" system to exchange stale air in the house. Once you've spent 2-3 weeks in one of these High performance homes, you'll want to have it for your own house.

@J J, Sounds like we are both doing good on heat retention (R-Value) and AC ! An HRV does what you said, gets rid of stale inside air but at the same time, heats the fresh incoming air from outside. When you rip the plaster walls off and paint the blocks with dry-loc, why not just use 3'' or more of closed cell ? You'll get the needed R-21 for your walls and vapor/air seal at the same time, it also adds some structural value ? Either way, your home sounds like a great place to live !

@J J, Good points ! Nice talking to someone who actually knows something ! Have a good night and thanks.

J J "I put in close cell foam 4 inches R 30" I am trying to understand this statement. If closed cell foam is up to R-6.5 per inch I calculate it to be R-28 at 4" thickness. Are you including something else to arrive at R-30?

J J wow, that's quite the hissy fit from your first reply. Are you schizophrenic.? What will you write if you read my question a third time? How bizarre. I am not a builder or a thermal engineer and was asking a very simple question. You did ultimately provide the answer in the midst of your tantrum. I never thought of wood as being much of an insulator and since I can't read your mind I wanted to know how you came up with R30 when you said 4" of closed cell foam. Awhile back I looked up the R value of closed cell foam to understand how it compares to other insulations and saw "up to 6.5". I automatically did the simple math and I wasn't getting 30. I looked it up again to double check thus the question to you. I often see shadowing on the warm-side of drywall surfaces from wood studs which appears to indicate thermal bridging. That's why I would never think of wood studs as having any thermal control and when you are evaluating the thermal performance I now get it, you have to look at the entire wall system.

Doesn't that cost a lot more than the t-stud method?

@@jrbisc99 I suspect that the Dbl stud done with advanced framing is close to the 2x6 T-stud framing cost, particularly how the framing is done in video. My system has 27-28 R value through whole house with exception of headers which will be a little less. If I were building houses now I would look real close at the 2x8 T-stud system as a being better than my old DBL 2x4 wall . One reason is I suspect that the T-studs have fewer defective/ crooked studs so less waste. I would want my walls to approach R 30. Header details for load bearing walls would need some thinking on

What is allowed in CA, only illegal immigration and taxpayers getting the shaft!!

Every stud would have to be stamped with that lame ass warning. This product is known to the state of California to cause pimples on my ass. That stupid warning is on everything you touch. It's like the boy who cried wolf. If you actually encounter something that could really harm you it will be ignored. I doubt that prop 65 will prevent one single injury from happening but I'm sure it provides numerous cushy state jobs.

Was thinking the same thing. I'm in California. Lol

Me too and I'd bet they would go crazy...

@@GarlandSuseberry Yea. considering that there is no "typical" framing application I imagine you would have to put your structural engineer on retainer. I live in CA as well. Santa Barbara County. Not like a high R value is a major concern around here but it could potentially cut the cooling cost some.

I feel like it would be easier this way though if the cost is the same. And you couldn’t frame doors and windows the way you mention.

@@traws06 sure you could, use a bunk. They use them all the time on ICF, earthship, and stray bale builds

From what I read almost all of the companies building these thermal break studs have gone under. Prolly a reason for that...

The fumes should be on the outside of the vapor barrier.

Why? I'm seriously interested in your opinion, because it seemed pretty legit to me.

@@MichaelGustavsonArchitect they still have connecting dowels so there is still transference of heat. Having spent a lifetime in the construction and repair trade I have learned that to truly fix any problem you have to address the root of the problem. I've also learned it's cheaper and better to do a thing right the first time. I think there are good methods for increasing the r value of a house and I think this is just a distraction. For years only the rich had cellular phones until the demand became such as to justify a price all could afford. I would like to see the same thing happen with an r control house so everyone could enjoy the benefits.

@@engineclinic The connecting dowels cover only a small fraction of the area a solid stud would cover, and since they are angled, any heat has to travel farther to get thru. That is why these studs are R-20, which is better than the typical insulation used in 6 inch walls. So now what is your objection?

@@ethanlamoureux5306 you haven't said anything to change my opinion. R60 is still better than r20 isn't it?

my MAJOR concern is its strength. He says he comply's with building codes for things like wind. Standard throughout the US is a 3 second 100mph gust. Thats your standard 2x6 3 nails for 2 story or less houses. He talks about top down strength. He does not talk about sustained side to side stress. with less wood using dowels to make a makeshift Truss it is almost assuredly worse. My area gets a half dozen or more 100mph wind gusts per year. I Really would like to see that 2 story house try to meet a 126mph gust or 100 sustained rating. "It wouldn't"

think nudura or any icf construction. id guess it doesnt make a difference in the scheme of things, but its something to think about.

I find it weird seeing all the comments questioning the foam. It's become quite common to use spray foam insulation up in Canada

According to their website its not even code compliant regarding fire hazard - yet...

@@Helloverlord fair enough, but neither is any insulated foundation. We typically have to board any foam insulated wall because of gases in the case of a fire.Even in an unfinished basement. I dont think they like seeing any exposed foam because of off gases in the case of a fire. This application is minimal compared to the way construction is going. Foam is becoming quite a popular choice

Without UV a,b or c rays, will last for centuries. The outgassing of chemicals in the foam, stops completely after 10 days. The finished product will be in the warehouse, loaded and shipped long after any fumes are left. Testing meets ASTM specs and published.

Excellent thinking! And, It's a cheaper way to achieve the same effect as these high-tech studs.

Yes, but isolation should always be companied with an cost/benefit analysis. Probably not mention because it is a sponsored video. This is NOT a new technology (outside US). In my country it is only used as an last option because of price. :)

Håkon Håkonsen They mentioned the cost difference in the video. $1500 more on the average 2500 SQFT house and $5000 on a larger more complex house. That’s change for a house you’d plan to live in 20-30 years.

@@JsGarage I've been a builder for 3 decades; I bet a million dollars, I could take you into a house framed with those crazy studs and insulated and a normally insulated house and you wouldn't note a difference...The insulation advantage is negligible, if at all...Everyone wants to reinvent the wheel...On the east coast we have 3 cold months and 3 hot...meh...2X4 or 6's worked fine for decades...

godbluffvdgg For the price difference especially as I said over 20-30 years I’ll take the new shit thanks though. Along with it comes a stronger construction. I think trying to notice something from a simple walk through is the issue as well. These will be something that is appreciated over the life of the home.

godbluffvdgg Not sure what east coast states you’re talking about but we have a couple cold months and 5 maybe 6 months that usually require AC where I live. There is plenty of room to improve on home insulation.

Average house of 2500 feet is $1500 more according to the video. This is framing cost. What dollar value would you add to the increase in speed/efficiency for plumbing and electrical? What about the decrease in weight he mentions? What is the dollar value on that? Wear and tear of raising walls over a career? Can skilled guys work a longer career for your company? The factors to be looked at get to be quite long. But you are correct, it likely won't catch on like it should. Most people in the construction field have all the imagination of a tree stump. Innovation is a swear word in the construction field, especially stick frame residential circles.

@ ... Of course all cost savings should be factored in to the determination of the break-even date. I never said otherwise. Dimensional lumber is plentiful, strong, predictable and inexpensive. The fact is, when planning a build or remodel, it's far safer to do so based upon product that will almost certainly be locally available. That means dimensional lumber and steel framing. It is not the local guy's fault that you can't find, or even look at this product locally. Maybe, if a contractor could find a stack of your stuff at a lumberyard, he could try it out. It's not a lack of imagination at work here. It's lack of predictable presence.

@@frankhoffman3566 bet a contractor could get them to ship a sample piece. The real determining factor will likely be the profit margin for the lumberyard. And with the push towards "green" building it wouldn't surprise me if this type of material becomes mandatory.

Good grief are those of you questioning "this and that" are so dang thick headed! Just Read Through the Product Website, and you should have seen the offer for said samples which are easy enough to buy just to see them first hand in your own hands for yourself to further determine their viability and quotes for orders are easy and often FREE to get even if you have to email back and forth, They do not post pricing like most others as the cost varies on order sizes and shipping location as that varies as much as volume pricing.

@@Joshua79C ... Sorry, but convincing a contractor that ordering online is equal to having lumber on site within the hour - that's a hard sell man. Having the infrastructure is, I'm sorry, critical. With this product you can't even sight it for straightness. You have to trust a new company to get your order right, have it available, ship it promptly, and get it to you without delay, complete and undamaged. Many jobs are 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 - three chapters of work and payment. That just multiplies the online ordering issues here.

Right.

@@jamesooten3659 I agree.

I am confused about the studs on their sides. Typically the structural steel frame cannot be used in this manner(lying a truss on its side) as it distributes the loads in the worst way. So Wouldn’t this be similar to stacking dual 2x3s on their sides?

he said it was just a gable wall

4:12 shows a load bearing wall

You add a service cavity.

The fact that they are an engineered product means that most likely you won't be able to notch them hardly at all. Just like TGI truss's you could be limited to designated penetrations (knock outs) so I imagine you plumbers won't think to highly of them. The electricians on the other hand....

I'm the exact same. I grew up in northern BC and Houston homes baffle me. 2x4 studs and a bedsheet for insulation and they wonder why the electric bill is $600 in the summer.

Well if you live in North America, you'd be incredibly lucky if your houses lasted 50yrs.

@@keithklassen5320 I live in a 95 year old house, we own the house next door that was built at the same time. 100% masonry construction. Plaster interior walls, stucco exterior. Rather than accepting what builders make the most money on, we need multigenerational buildings like those built in other countries. Also, the expected life of the building can be extended by reducing or eliminating the energy costs of the building. People chasing such decorating fads as ciultured marble or granite countertops will be moved on to the next gas in ten years or less. Solar roofs pay for seventy five years or more. Tight insulation, windows and doors, an energy audit with a positive and negative can test every 5 to 10 years will identify where your energy money is going.

@@1mtstewart solar roofs pay for themselves in 75 years. What planet are you from? Must be Pluto where there is no sun. SMH

@@6milesup I think he's saying that they provide value for 75 years.

Research "survivor bias"... You see the houses that are very old, because all the less lucky and poorly constructed houses are already gone.

I read that you can space studs 24" apart as long as you use structural siding, aka plywood covering the exterior holding it all together

Would think the controlled environment at the factory would make for properly catalyzed foam ,plus the time from manufacture to install allows for some off-gassing. I read that most spray foam issues are caused by installer error in adjusting to environment variables at the time the foam is sprayed.

@@jamesooten3659 Wow, Way to run with it .

@@jamesooten3659 Excellent advice for anyone anywhere in the world. Same human nature applies.

@@jamesooten3659 And that is why we have inspectors and building departments and courts of law. The main problem she had was hiring out of state contractors that weren't bonded in the state she lives in. Oopsy.

@@iamjackalope Where I live, there are no zoning laws, no building permits required, or building inspectors. The only exception to the rule being homes financed by The Veteran's Adm., who inspect the job site weekly. The Electric Company inspects your power pole set-up and from the meter to the breaker box before they'll turn the power on. The water company inspects the pipe from the meter to the foundation wall for leaks and that the pipe will be covered by 18" of dirt. That leaves plenty of room for errors and dishonest contractors. So basically you have to be your own building inspector here.

he didnt even mention the cost tho

@@michaeljones5068 He did say on the average house in North America (2500 sq ft), it would add $1000-$1500. But I imagine the energy savings (and possibly labour due to the reduced weight) should more than offset that extra cost.

@@michaeljones5068 14:25 to 14:55 he mentions the extra cost to compare, actual pricing per piece will depend on volume of order per what sizes you request and your delivery location and any added delivery requirements.

@@davidslinn5920 Not to mention, l less or no drilling for the rough electrical and top out plumbing.

For a very cold climates normally framed with 2x6's for thick insulation... seems like a good investment.

Yeah, usually that foam insulation stuff is nothing but highly combustible kindling. Don't know that I'd want to go that route. Doesn't take much to light that stuff on fire vs trying to light a 2 x 4 stud on fire.

@@woodrowmagnus2535 Fortunately that doesn't apply to this product.

So corny 😂

Yea but that's just a blink of an eye in the terms of the history of home building.