Brutha ty for the clear cut guide to trouble shooting the P0113. Ive been under my kids hood for a week trying to figure out and narrow down whats going on with the vehicle. Excellent video! Your time and help is greatly appreciated.👍🏾👌🏾🤙🏾
Holy cow. This always a very refreshing video. Straight to the point and very easy to understand and learn from. Can you tell me where I'd find out which 2 pins I need to connect to in order to check this circuit?
old time wrench here you explain things as a normal guy without arrogance most of the younger guys have! you given me back some faith with younger people, don't change my friend!
Hello I have a 2015 Chevy Cruze Lt 1.4 tubro and my scan tool came up PO113. Says air intake sensor. I can't believe it is mass air flow sensor already I put in a Bosch OEM part any help would be appreciated ty
Thanks for the tip and a good video. I learned something. My question is do you know what is considered normal Temps for the intake air on a 2021 6.7 Cummins? What should it normally read? Thank you!
Hi there 👋, the sensor you're testing has 5 pins and you're testing the last two from the right side, could you please tell us how to identify which 2 wires to be tested?
Very good on explaining the video and on the part itself. Would of been nice to show how to clean these SENSORS now. It it easy as buying a can of cleaner ? Or does it need to relearn anything ? I've read that you must reset these, some may need to go to the Dealership and get them to fix it and update the system. Some relearn by themselves from driving them around to learn itself over with easy driving. Just trying to learn more on these.
Great video testesd with blow dryer and went down quickly but still have code and proper voltage coming out plug so not sure what else to do its a nissan altima 3.5 what a nightmare these nissans are thought of just replacing to see what happens because car has rough idle if uou let of gas it will shut off any ideas would be great
No if you have a misfire on cylinder 1 that mean it's either the plug or coil or spark plug wire depend on what u have on ur car. If you have coils the easier way to test it swap coils from another cylinder delete code ride til check engine light come back on if misfire jump to the cylinder yu swap the coil to its the coils but if it til in cylinder 1 it' the spark plug not fring
Hi, I am in the process of repairing the mass air flow sensor connector wiring. As a result of the mice messing around, I cut the wires off the connector side, leaving approximately two inches for each wire attached to the connector. I thought each wire was a different color, but I was surprised to find two wires of the same color. I drive a 2006 Infiniti M35 with a maf sensor that has 5 wires in this order from left to right: red, black/white, white, yellow/green, black/white, so I connected the 3 different colored wires and was left confused about the two Of the same color. I tried connecting this to this and vice versa and I did not feel any difference. I also tested them with a multimeter and they both gave the same measurement. So if you have any idea or suggestion that can help, I would be appreciative. thank you
I have a 2013 Subaru Legacy, had to remove the air intake for better access to the headlight area to replace a high beam. Once I reinstalled the air intake, and restarted the car, had a check engine light, codes come up as P0102, and P0113. Only issue I had with reinstalling the air intake assembly, is the mass air flow sensor wire is kind of clipped into a spot on the car, but that little clip thing broke, could that be causing some kind of grounding issue? Will a zip tie holding it back to that spot it was clipped to fix it?
You likely had the key on or turned it on when it wasn't connected... Try resetting the codes and see if they come back If they do, it's either not connected right, or a wire got broken/ruined somehow The wires being clipped doesn't do any grounding
In my case, the iat is built in the maf sensor and I'm getting the p0113 and p0102 codes. I've tested the maf sensor as you showed and works fine. What can be the problem?
I know this video is old but hopefully someone can help me out. My brother drives a 2010 Nissan Altima automatic. Every once in a while the car shuts down completely at traffic lights. It'll turn back on but it's obviously not supposed to do that. I read that changing this sensor could fix it. Thoughts?
hi good vid,,, now i got p0104 ,,, so i done this test and it read 3.06 put heat on down to below one , took hair dryer away and its took many minuets to rise to 1.6 , is it f***** thxs fred
Hello! Maybe you can tell if my sensor is bad. I got the same sensor you have but from a 2010 subaru forester. My testing show infront of the aircon at home @42-45 deg fahrenheit with 1.97-2.14 ohms and on room temp 1.4 ohms, using hair dryer on low heat about 1.1ohms. On the car idle for 15 min with a scanner IAT @114 deg then unplugged the sensor and reads 1.0 ohms. My codes is P0113 and p0102. I need the actual specs for subaru if you know. I see charts on the internet and my resistor reading is so off which show @248 deg with 1.18 kohms. What does Subaru say? Thanks
Thanks for the video. i have the following error codes on my WRX STI . P0102, P0113 and P0031. Could they be inter related ? What would be the best route to sort them out?
Mushinka Mazyambe any update? I have p0113 and p0031. I swapped the upstream sensors and still get the code. I changed the downstream sensors also. Help lol
I have a 2009 p71 just bought a new air cleaner Assembly with the MAF sensor . still showing the trouble code po113. Thanks My Man. But there's a intake air temperature sensor for my car i bought it can't find where it goes😭😭😭. But i think i need a MAF connector because i didn't hear the click from mines.
Hi, i did that test.. since inwas hmgetting trouble codes. But in my 06 lexus rx330zz when idling it will hesitate for a sec. then continues idling then when i step on the accelerator pedal . Nothing happen. I have to restart the car to make the accelerator pedal work again. Any idea?
Sounds like either the throttle position sensor, dirty/malfunctioning idle control valve, fuel pump, fuel damper, fuel filter, or even unexpected air coming in Would need to look at fuel trims and other data
This may help: troubleshootmyvehicle.com/toyota/1.8L/testing-the-intake-air-temp-sensor-5 Testing resistance, powers and grounds of the wires from the Sensor to the PCM/ECM is a good idea, but its a little more involved. Stay gold.
OBDII info shows that the sensor is increrasing by the minutes the temp. Startint at a 60 celsius, early in the morning, with a coolant temp of 22 and an outside temp of 21. With the key position "on", not starting the engine, the iat keep increasing the temp. In abou 15 min it wil reach 89 celsius. Coolant still in 22, real temp in 21. ¿Faulty sensor?
Awesome job, thank you. I have two codes on my 05 civil. Po706 and po113 . And do you suggest I replace the transmission range sensor or there is a way to check that , if you would please .
I have correct voltage and continuity to the ground signal return....I put a new one in a 90 ford ranger 2.9L ...and they keep burning out....Just replaced Ecu thinking that was the problem...no help.....Any IDEAS??
Hi! Body I have a question. I have a Nissan sentra 2013, and tgey rebuilted the transmission after that I had been having a lot of issues with it,, first when driving it.it doesn't change gears, the max it reaches is 65 mph when going down hill , it slide and sometimes got stock, I was told that it have to do with the intake air temperature sensor, also I scanned it and shows code P0965,p0111, p0847, P2859,P0112, P0102. I also was that if I changed the intake air temperature sensor the car need to be reprogram otherwise it would keep doing the same thing. Could you please help me. Thank you
Take it back. Those sound like they either gave you a used transmission or didn't rebuilt it right... Or reused the old solenoids that aren't powerful enough to work with the new tolerances Or if you're lucky it's just a disconnected ground cable, or a broken wire somewhere Either way the repair has some kind of a warranty so I'd take it back. It's 100% related to what they did so they have to fix it Also sounds like some other sensors are disconnected or their wires are broke somewhere as well You can reset the codes and see which ones come back for certain in case some of those were from the repair
Like most other repair videos on RU-vid, it's generic in the fact that you never mention the make, model, year and engine size of the vehicle in the video. Other than that, nice format.
Saves time if the make, model and year appear in the videos title line, you shouldn't have to watch all or part of the video before you find out it the repair pertains to your vehicle or not, buddy boy!
