We two different brands of intake carbon cleaning products through the intake system of my Mini Cooper to see which one is more effective. These are both products I was able to source from my local auto parts store.
Hi, good video to prove that the spray in chemicals just do not work. Here's some general info on Mini's and carbon. I have a 2012 Countryman S, with 120,000. At 100,000 I inspected the valves and they all had carbon build up. Not bad but far from clean. I then installed a catch can and replaced my PCV. Since then, every oil change (5,000) I empty about 1/4 pint of thin oily dirty brown liquid out of the can. At 120,000 I re-inspected my valves. They still have carbon on them, but I would say the build-up has DECREASED a little. They are not clean, but they are not bad, and the car starts, runs and idles just great. Still averaging >32 mpg. Hope this helps someone
Thanks a million for a great video... Amazing how you've taken the intake manifold multiple times off just to check the carbon build up on the valves. sincere appreciation for that. I have a 2013 Mini Paceman JCW w/ 55K Miles and a 2014 Mini Cooper Coupe S w/ 31K miles. I tried the catch cans on both of them and noticed the cars would drive differently and not as responsive so I kept away from the catch cans. I also tried the same CRC intake Turbo cleaner and also the Sea Foam cleaner..., I followed your steps but also added an additional step, I sprayed past the MAF sensor where the intakes system is (passed/ under the clamp on the turbo inlet where it connects to the MAF) and spraying CRC made a nice difference in idle. (Spray through the top of the turbo inlet). It seems the turbo has oil vapor residue on it from the PVC pipe draining oil at the end of the turbo inlet in the entrance of the turbo. Spraying multiple cans is the trick. Also cleaning your MAF sensor with CRC Intake sensor cleaner and also spraying your intake temp sensor on the charge pipe with CRC intake sensor cleaner made for a smoother idle. Lastly, replace the Valve cover cap membrane on the valve cover. And make sure your motor oil level is not over filled. I personally use Amsoil 5W-30 European blend. If possible do a walnut blast on the intake valves for bad buildup. Would like to see if you did 2-3 can then take a picture of the valves.
Thanks for the video, very informative. I have a R56 2013, with 94k miles. I am planing to drive it from he east coast to the west coast, I would like to do some preventive maintenance so the car does not break down in the long trip.
Seems to me if you're going to the trouble of removing the intake manifold, working one cylinder at a time and covering the others, make sure the cylinder is at TDC so the valves are closed, then use the side of a dental pick hook to scrape the carbon off everywhere inside the ports the best you can, blow out with compressed air, maybe try using that cleaner a bit with the dental pick...but ultimately your best bet without a doubt is to walnut blast the ports and vacuum / blow out all the blast media. You're already there, might as well do it right. The biggest takeaway I get from this is don't expect some miracle in a can. Thanks.
YOU DEFINITELY NEED to change your sparkplugs and oil after using this type stuff. I'd also suggest cleaner your 02 sensors also afterwards.. that's the chug and lack of power is dirty / contaminated sensors reading wrong but not bad enough to throw a cel
I do believe that running a few cans of the CRC cleaner through the intake system will clean most of the carbon deposits. The seafoam feels like it should be used after all your cleaning is done to "polish" things up.
Hello we have an R57 S I'm getting a rough idle and a P1497 code. Downstream air leak? Other than a crack in my valve cover, what else could be causing that code. Thanks for your help!!!
This is a 2007 with 150k on it. Dealer would have done a walnut blasting service. which, in my opinion, is a much more effective solution. However, it can be very pricey.
