For extra thermal conductivity, one can add Water Weter or Royal Purple Ice. Also, make sure to wash coolant off of the rubber belts, they aren’t good friends.
Do not open the bleeder valves with the pump on. You're going to just suck air into the bleeder valves. Only start the pump with the shrader valve open and coolant in the funnel. Open the bleeder valve, open the shrader valve (with a funnel and coolant attached) and then shut them when coolant starts to leak out. Then you probably never have to touch them again. SIncerely, Someone who learned this the hard way.
So, I'm thinking you still have bubbles in the system at the end of the video because you are barely filling up that big funnel they give you. The reason it is so big is for liquid weight which equals pressure out (into the system).. The more coolant you have in it, the more weight it has to push (psi) into your system. Maybe try it again with someone to help hold the funnel the whole time so it doesn't tip over and spill out coolant everywhere, I recommend a turkey baster once you are ready to remove the funnel, you can get pretty much remove all the coolant out of the funnel before taking it off. If you decide to try this, please leave a comment after you do to let me know how it worked. I bought a cts v sport about 6 months ago with 75k miles and now it has 85k and I'm going through servicing/replacing with new parts, everything in the engine that I think the previous owner never did before and this is something I'm about to do here very soon. Thanks, enjoying your channel, liked and subbed.
I'll take a closer look about the bubbles next time. I've added a hole on the funnel to string it to the hood now. If you plug the funnel, you can remove it and leave the short bit of black tube attached to the bleeder. Then you can "tip" the tube and bleeder over and drain into a small cup. Only a couple ounces will remain in the blacktube/bleeder.
It's odd that air bubbles seem endless in the system. I wonder if there is a design flaw where air gets trapped in the system. Why not replace the entire black hose with the clear one? Not sure why everyone uses Black hoses to begin with I'm assuming they hold their shape around corners when under heat and the clear ones kink or crimp in the same heat situations...
Do we know what the case actually is? I know that in HP tuners there’s settings based on temperature so I figured that’s the likely element that determines pump ops.
Would be great to see a kit developed for the CT6-V BlackWing.. My car was 2 full quarts low on oil from the factory so wonder how low coolant might be.
Hmmm... Love the video. Love the pump switch. How about using it to assist with a heat soaked intercooler and add another switch to turn on the fans???
Yeah, not really sure where it’s going except possibly the bleeder valve. But it’s the first thing you want to check with loss of boost or high manifold intake temps.
I was trying to avoid a reservoir due to space and clutter. I'm going to fab a simple motorcycle size radiator cap onto a piece of 3\4 aluminum pipe and add it to the brick outlet and see if that's enough.
I’ve noticed that my boost comes and goes, when I left for work and I stepped on it I can get 70-80kpa, but then after a while of driving I’ll step on it and only get like 10kpa… does this sound like an intercooler problem? Literally every one of your videos has happened to my car so thanks for making them
Yeah it sounds like the car is warming up and not getting enough charge cooling. A large majority of owners have air in their intercooler loop. I would definitely check that first.
Thanks, the tools for those hoses are very hard to come by. Vendor suggests grinding down a fuel disconnect tool but the standard 90 deg pick was easiest and no damage.
@@JetFuelOnly thanks for the reply, great video. Turns out the last shop I went to went ahead and bled it for me. Car runs great just wanted to be sure
Do you do your final burp with the pump on or off? When I burp it running vs off, I'm talking a couple ounces of fluid difference. If I close the bleeder while running, I'm sure it's packed full, but as it heats up am I putting undo pressure against every seal?
@JetFuelOnly agreed, I'm worried on my CTSV if I pack it full, then it expands in stressing the intercooler bricks etc, since there's no expansion from. It's really a couple ounce difference only.
I bought a 2014 CTS VSport and absolutely love it. Had it a year. Bone stock premium model and it’s plenty fast for my tastes. I want it to be reliable and last another 100,000 miles. It’s currently at 101,000, I’ve put on the last 10,000 miles.
Keep an eye out for timing issues as the chains stretch in the next 10-20k miles. Change your oil often but expect a $2-3k bill for that when it happens. It’s a flaw of the 3.6 engine
This has happened to a few people. Sometimes only when you put pressure on it. You can get a new one, some people report that they got the whole upper manifold and then just swapped out the valve.
Sorry I didn’t mean whole manifold but it’s a piece of the manifold. This is just how it comes but you can separate the parts. www.worldpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-intake-manifold-vacuum-fitting-12686826
@@JetFuelOnly hi daniel .... my XTS is 2014 vsport >>> as you told me this system will fit my car .. i didn't receive this kit yet but I'm looking at my engine cooling and i think its different >> any advice?
I see. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. Your car has a plug where the fill port is. Instead your car has a filler cap. See page 256 in the 2016 XTS owners manual. It says “charged air coolant bottle and pressure cap.” I would assume you just need to make sure this is at the right level and there’s no bleeding necessary. Wish I had that.
On the ATS-V and VSpoet the reservoir is only for engine coolant. There is no reservoir for the intercooler’s separate system. On some GM intercooled engines there is a small expansion tube but not on theses two cars.
LOL... that Bleed kit is $91... shipping to canada they said was $160. By the time I convert the money I'm essentially paying well over $300 for what is really just a dollar store funnel, $5 worth of hose, and $10 switch, and $1 wood stick. I'll make my own kit this summer I guess it's really a shame how in Canada even though we are next door to he USA the cost of US products is double for us.
Sorry about that! Yeah for us it is a convenience to just buy the whole kit but it’s certainly cheaper to just get the parts separately if you know what to get
I have a 16’ ats v. With the peddle to the floor right at 100mph the car studdars . I’ll left off the peddle and push back to the floor the car goes no problem… could this be the issue that cause the to do that?
I doubt it. Are you getting the full consistent boost you are supposed to?!8 think stock is 12 or 14 PSI. How about medium throttle under boost. Any hesitation?
I’ll check soon. If I’m not getting the consistent 12-14 psi what could be the issue & how could I go about fixing it? No hesitation under medium throttle. Only when I mash it to the floor.
It absolutely baffles me that the XTS VSport comes with a tiny little self-bleeding reservoir (ZZP actually sells them for like $40 for the ATS V and CTS VSport) but the other cars do not, so an XTS Vsport that has proper fluid level will never have air in it. Its the lowest "performance" of the 3 LF3/LF4 cars and I just have to wonder why the other two don't have this.
So i rigged up something that works good for keeping the swivel in check But i cant post a pic???? Put large vise grips around it this tie strap to mount for air cleaner base
Hey there, I just picked up a ats v a couple weeks ago and it has this kit installed. I saw in the clear hose that mine has foam like bubbles. Not sure if I have to bleed it?
I have question Daniel .. the clear hose you installed.. i can see there is 2 hoses .. can i install the hose randomly in any one of these two hoses shown?
Just so you know, putting an expansion tank in the system will make the system self-bleeding. The parts cost $65 (there's a thread on the Cadillac Forum if you're interested), but if you've got more money than sense, Caddy Issues sells a kit for a $200 premium.
@@JetFuelOnly Gotcha. Wasn't sure if you were staying up with the various Cadillac developments. You should check out the new carbon fiber seatbacks that Street Driven Performance just made! They're expensive, but they look sick.
Depends on what it sounds like an how long it runs. And empty intercooler will run the pump for awhile before stopping. Same with big air gaps. If you just have bubbles it will sound like mine, gurgling and the smooth running
You wire up something and that part fails the dealer isn’t going to warranty it. If you are worried about it, don’t install the switch the lid. Just plug it in and connect to power. Remove when done with procedure
@@JetFuelOnly so basically will I need to hook up the bleed/fill kit (fuse box button ect? ) since the pump does come on in accessory mode but doesn’t stay on though. Assuming I have to keep turn on the accessory mode or will come on once all the bubbles are out ?
Just did my CTS-VS this morning. My pump sounds like yours, like a dishwasher at the end of a pumping cycle. So frustrating that it can be low on fluid/air trapped, and yet the resevoir shows it's full. I'm giving GM a fail for this design.
The reservoir is not connected to the inner cooler. The reservoir is for the engine coolant. Part of the problem with the inner cooler system is there is no reservoir for bubbles to escape to.
I have a question for you. Not related to this video. Do you know how to remove the Shark Fin Antenna?? I want to paint mine Black Chrome but there is no videos on my certain year 2014 on how to remove it?? I don’t want to break it. There is nothing inside the car in the back to pop off and unscrew?? Know how? Have a link? Thank you. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Jet Fuel Only yea that’s it. Omg what a pain in the butt! You have to fold your seats down & pop out the liner. I only popped out the back and got my head up there and got to the 10mm screw. It’s a pain holding the liner down and trying to release the two wire clips. But I got it out. Have to be carful you don’t bend your liner. I’m actually painting it now. Thx for looking into it. Appreciate it. If you do this job I highly recommend a light that attaches to your head. I didn’t want to take the whole liner out because of the side air bags back there. I just held it down and worked my head back there. Folding seats down made it a lot easier.
