A caveat: non-woven interfacing is synthetic and if your main fabric can handle a hot iron (i.e. cotton), that doesn't mean your interfacing can. I made this mistake with a piece of sew-in interfacing I was using in a waistband. I pressed it at the same temperature I had been pressing the whole garment... and melted the interfacing. Thankfully, it was easily removed and redone.
I bought sew-in interfacing but didn’t realize I’d bought 100% polyester, oops. At least I’d seen beforehand that you have to be careful about using heat so I’m being mindful about which projects I use it for! But also good to know, I wondered what would happen if I ironed it. Hadn’t tested it yet.
While taking apart men's shirts, I learned that the best interfacing to use is simply more of the very same fabric that the shirt is made from. Some of the iron in interfacing glues can bleed through and show on the right side of the fabric. They look a lot like grease stains.
Hi Evelyn, I would recommend using a non-stick pressing cloth so you can use the correct heat to activate the glue on fusible nonwoven interfacing and spraying the interfacing with water to also increase the bonding and stop bubbling. It really works. 🙂💐
For anyone at least in North America (I don't know if the rest of the world has access to this brand) The brand Pellon has an amazing range of different interfacing materials including both a fusible and non-fusible hair canvas.
Tailor's hair canvas is a must for coats/jackets. It has different properties depending on which way "bend", one stiffer than the other. 2 for 1 And NEVER fold your fabric directly ON the edge of the canvas, the rigid fibers will poke throught the fabric. ( Did that on a waistband, ouch,ouch...)
It also needs a specific kind of stitching . If you see a picture of a mens jacket in the making you will know what l mean. It looks kind like a big upward zig zag..the name in English fails me right now, sorry but l am Greek haha
Actually I'm currently working with interfacing for the first time! I've skipped it before and regretted that later...😅 But now I'm attempting to make a wool coat so I can't skip it this time. I have been watching a lot of your videos during this project and I have found them very helpful!
Greetings, Which did you choose to. for your wool coat? I have mine cut out and questioninvwhst to be using . Foubd this videp very infirmative. Keeping in mind what to be using, she answred me...go by the weight of the fabric that is being used. Also, a good idea to build up our stock. So I did. Only 3 yards of each type and lightweight fusible is snatched up fast, hard to find, and pricy. GiGi In Vintage 🇨🇦
The biggest game-changer for me was discovering fusible woven cotton interfacing! I basically don't use polyester, so have my iron set to hot (three dots) as a default. I've melted a LOT of synthetic interfacing! Flatlining with firm wovens is also excellent for adding structure but not cardboard :)
When I learned to sew (in the mid-1970s), interfacing was something you cut out of the same fabric you were using for the garment, then sewed it in with the same seam allowance (5/8 inch) and hand stitched the other edge down. (I'm thinking mostly of necklines.) I stopped sewing garments years ago but have been encouraged and inspired to start making my own garments again, largely because of your channel, @Evelyn, and another I subscribe to. I appreciate your tutorials so much!
I share your story, Timeline, stropped, wanting to restart. I sewed all my clothing at one time. One difference, I did use interfacing using the different sew in weights.
I’m a very beginner sewer and trying to understand what you mean. Do you mean as you’re sewing your seam allowance, you just add this extra cut of fabric on top and stitch it down to the seam allowance as well? And then with the other edge, if you stitch it down (hand or otherwise), wouldn’t you see the stitches from the right side of the garment?
Great video thank you, as a beginner I was definitely scratching my head about this subject. Anther more in depth video to expand further would be awesome. I love your channel so much 🙏🏻
My problem with the iron on is that when I sew my needle will get gummed up. I learned to cut it a smidge smaller than my actual piece to allow for the hems to not be sewn through the "sticky adhesive". Don't know if it's the proper way, but it works.
Woven interfacing is an eye opener. I was desperate to get the right weight and all they had was woven. I absolutely love woven interfacing now. No irons, minimal long term garment fraying and balling and no need to get the iron just right to fuse the interfacing with their glue.
In one of your videos, you talked about, I think it was called blocked interfacing. It was a revelation for me. Something I had never thought of. I'm self-taught, and always learning new things. Ever after, I love using that block method when I can!
My bigest issue is minimal or missing instructions when purchasing. And packaging that doesn't list what each type is used for.or fabri types its suitable for. I had one I ordered on line that came with no instruments or labaling of any kind. When I attempted to use it with a pressing clothe & low heat iron to test it, It melted to my fabrics as well as my pressing clothe & pressing mat. I prefer Pallon. I like that I can buy it off the bolt at tge fabric store as well as smaller pre cut sizes in packaging in black or white. Yet I still wish for more information on packaging.
Hello from Greece, l love watching your channel. I just wanted to say that you didn't mention that woven interfacing needs to be cut on grain like actual fabric unlike non woven. I say this because it's important for the outcome. Oh and thanks for the hair interfacing comment, l was about to add some in my stash
This was really a big help. I am 71 and started sewing in grade school. Loved to sew but back then I got so intimidated by interfacing and lining clothes. I stopped for many years and now back to it. The old fear is still here but with these educational videos I hope to eliminate that fear. Thank you
The sewing show I used to watch called the Sewing Connection with Shirley Adams which is now on RU-vid (yes I’m excited). Anyway she used to say interfacing was part of the thinking part of the project. She would take scraps of the fabric iron on different interfacing to see how it interacts. That way you know before you start if it’s going to be what you want.
@@dale3404 wow you’re so lucky. I’m sure it was wonderful. Between her show and my kids complete faith that I could make or fix everything I managed. Oh and Sewing with Nancy! Another wonderful teacher.
@@robintheparttimesewer6798My children and my grandchildren have the same undying faith in my abilities. Nancy was a wonderful teacher, wasn’t she? I miss her, still watch her shows and use her books.
@@dale3404 yes she was. I still use her books as well. Haven’t seen her show in years. I miss them both though it’s great to have this online community. It’s always nice to have have new teachers and a place to share our ideas.
Because fusible interfacing came out after I learned to sew, I seem to always struggle with using them. They do not seem to give the same level of structure that sew-in and woven interlacing does. Maybe that's just me.
I have heavy weight fluffy interfacing for making hats, only it’s helpful for pillbox hats and mulling in bonnets. I sometimes use it in head scarfs for cancer patients, but fleece and soft flannel is better. I follow Nicole Rudolph and she has a whole video on tailoring and supplies. Burnley and Trowbridge have a fantastic beatled linen which is stiff and paper thin great for building under structures in historical projects. I’m actually a bit terrible about interfacing, but I’m trying to do better. Search for tailor canvas for hair canvas, for collars that need more structure it’s a beautiful thing. Amazon has it in the US. I’m babbling about sourcing but I have gone down the rabbit hole a few times.
hate crispy interfacing with a passion. also you can use fabric scraps as sew in interfacing if it matches weight, good way to use up old material but make sure it is a similar fibre and won't show through
I don’t have money to buy interfacing so in the past when it’s been required, I just use the same fabric or a lighter fabric as a facing . For the next thing I want to make, it will require facing so this video came at the best time!
That’s interesting, you were resourceful. I didn’t ever think of that as an option instead I delayed sewing, this is a good idea for when the sewjo hits and the budget is low. Brilliant
I would suggest and well, ask if you could make a video of different kinds of tape interfacing. There is a bigger mess. There's edge tape, woven forming tape on the bias with a chain like staystitching, and many more. And noone seems to know whats what. I have become a researcher so that l know what to buy for every project sonce stores here dont always know, l am guessing because these stuff are coming from the US, germany or cina basicly, and the info on the use stays back when the products come. So they mostly call them hemming tapes when not all of them are for hems. Please make a video
This came at a perfect time as I’m planning on going to a fabric store next week to get some interfacing for the first time! I knew what it was used for but not that it came in different thickness/weights so definitely learned something new before I go to the store!
Awesome video as always❤. I need a sequel just about brims and waistbands.... Because guess who used 2 layers of horsehair in the same direction on a brim and had it collapse? 😂
Love this video I needed this. Can anyone tell me what is "hair stay" interfacing? Is there another name for it. I've watched sewing tutorials and the African tailors are using it for bustiers and corsets.
SO much information overload on interfacing and especially when you’re trying to find a compatible product from another brand line (like I love Burda magazine but none of the interfacing they recommend is available here in the US and it’s so hard to figure out what would work instead!) thank you for this video!!!
I have the same problem the other way around: I watch a lot of costuber and they often recommend shops and brands that do not exist in Germany. Even trying to find the German name of the fabric or other material they use is a challenge, because the shop assistants in fabric shops rarely know the English words.
Thank you for covering interfacing! This video is super helpful. I've used interfacing in the past, but I didn't really understand their differences. Now I feel much more confident selecting the interfacing that works best for my projects.
This video has been so helpful because it seems like no one talks about interfacing as if new sewers already know these things. Once I made some pajamas using flannel and interfaced the collar and front edge of the torso and it was as stiff as a board, obviously, I used the wrong interfacing. As a new sewer, I had no idea there were different kinds and I didn't know what kind of use with flannel. This is still a challenge for me, but I will remember what you said, "light interfacing for light fabrics". Another tip I learned was to test the interfacing on a scrap piece of fabric FIRST before I marry it with my cut-out fabric.. If it feels like cardboard, it's probably too firm for the fabric.
To store various kinds of interfacing that are not on the bolt, either fold interfacing and instructions and place in a large clear ziplock bag- or if the instructions are printed on a plastic sheet and you have a lot of the instructions - just fold the instructions and sew up the two sides to create a pocket - then put the interfacing inside. This way you always have the appropriate instructions and information as to weight, etc.
One big thing with fusible is it's drape: I find woven allows the material to drape more naturally, whereas even finer non-woven can make it appear a bit stiff, because it doesn't behave the same as a woven.
Hello Evelyn, One thing I was hoping you'd cover in this video is which weight interfacing is best to use in/on purses and wallets ? TYSM for sharing this video with us. Will watch it several times, again and again, because it's so informative and useful to me. Take care, and I hope you're feeling better with going through chemo. Prayers are being sent your way 🙏🙏🙏 !!!
I'm definitely on a fusible interfacing journey, not yet in a fusible interfacing happy place! The big issue is that the interfacing just separates from the fabric, the first time I wash the garment. It's tempting to blame the interfacing, but I suspect that the glue's still holding, and it's just pulled away a few surface fibres from the fabric. One of these days, I ought to test that idea by trying to re-fuse a piece that's peeled away. Meanwhile, I just avoid the problem by using sew-in.
Have you tried letting gravity help? Place your fabric on your ironing board wrong side UP, then place your fusible interfacing glue-side DOWN (to help the glue melt into the fabric to bond) and a pressing cloth on top (to avoid the interfacing getting stuck to your iron plate). When ironing; just press, lift, move to the next section and press; don't glide the iron around or it won't attach evenly.
@@LynHannan Thanks, and yes, I already do those things*. I get a good firm glue bond, with gravity and plenty of heat, but it doesn't last. The prime suspect is the fibre pull-away, but another possibility is that my tumble dryer's heat is too much for the glue on the cheap interfacing. I've recently bought some nicer fusible interfacing, and will see if that fares any better. *(Not the pressing cloth part. I live dangerously, but my iron has survived so far!)
Can you please make a vid on how to create that beautiful short jacket. It is really attractive. Did you create the pattern and the style and how did you go about choosing the fabric. The end product, the style, shape, fabric...over all look is very cute. Can you share with us your thought process.
Once I took apart a store-bought blouse that I had loved and hoped to reproduce. I was surprised to find fabric where I expected to find interfacing. In the button band and collar, for example. It appeared to be scrap fabric, too. It looked out of date. Two pieces were even a print, and not the same print either. I wondered if this was a common technique and what you thought of it. It had certainly been successful. I loved that blouse and was hoping to harvest pattern pieces from it to make a replacement. What do you think?
Thank you for doing this video - I usually skipped over this (and stay stitching) thinking who really needs this. Result is a poorly constructed garment...I am learning...
I had some woven fusable interfacing sitting in my stash and I never knew what it was before! I get a lot of fabrics secondhand from people who need to declutter their sewing supplies so I don't always fully understand everything I have-
Thank you! Recently I've been looking into sewing and your video is so helpful. Can I ask that with interfacing (and even wadding) do we still need to pre-wash like with fabrics to prevent it from shrinking? If so, how should we pre-wash different types? Many thanks!
This was very helpful thank you. I’m curious about the comments saying to use the same fabric and I might try that unless you think there is a significant downside? Sounds like sometimes sew- in interfacing might be less of a hassle.
A professional: Lighter is better Me in my villain era making a wool jacket: //ironing on hat wieght fusible interfaceing into my collers and cuffs// 😅
Thank you for this video, it's really helpful! I tried to apply stiff interfacing when making small pouches or bags to keep them in shape, but when the sewn fabrics were turned over to the right side, it always results in wrinkles from turning the stiff interfacing. Should I pick another interfacing? Thanks
If I may. Not quite. Horsehair is also called tailor's canvas. It literally has horse hair in it to give it rigidity. It is the "workhorse" of tailoring molding the garment to the body shape. It is usely greige color with woven fiber visible. Buckram is a very stiff uniform canvas, natural or not, made for other types of uses like upholstery, curtain, bags, things. 🙂
HELP. When I washed the garment the interfacing started to fall apart. Fluffy stuff started coming off it. I washed it because the garment was too stiff and I hoped it would soften a little.
I have an antique silk piano scarf which has become fragile with age and is prone to tearing easily. Could I solve this problem with interfacing and is there anything else I should know about how to apply it? I want to use the fabric to make sofa pillows. Many thanks,
I'm sure this is a helpful video but after 2.5 minutes of being told what I'm going to be told I'm afraid I got impatient. Why is it a thing to tell someone what you're going to tell them? It's already all there in the title of the video, which is why I clicked on it. Unnecessary verbal padding. Interfacing where none is needed, if you will. Best wishes.
Do you prewash fusible interfacing before you use it? Do you throw it in the dryer? I saw someone on youtube washing it by hand and rolling it up to dry, but I don't think that would really act like a prewash. I'm a first timer here. Any help would be appriciated.
Hi, great video thanks. I am sewing with a satin like polyester. My friend said I will need to use stabaliser tape on all seams. I'm not following a pattern as such just one I made up. So my question is which is the best stabiliser to use. I will apparently use it on all seams. Any advice would be most welcome.💟
Really good videos thank you. New to sewing. Do you cut interfacing to the size of pattern pieces and stitch through layers or slightly smaller than the facing piece? Mine didn’t look so neat.
I was told by a fabric store that it’s best to keep fusible interfacing in the freezer. If not, the glue dries up and is no longer fusible. Have you heard this? I have had fusible interfacing that had dried up in the past.
Im new to this, and was wondering - do you cut the stabilizer so that its sewn into the seams? Does that create too much bulk? And do you use it on both pieces or just one side of say a collar or a flap? I sew hand bags mainly that have a flap... Thanks for any help!
I have an old worn-out blouse. It was made of cotton seersucker. It is thin from wear. I wanted to make a new blouse from it, so I picked apart all the seams. I know that this step may have been unnecessary, but I oddly found it relaxing and satisfying. I plan on starching it to stiffen it, but I thought about using interfacing instead. I am planning on tracing the pieces to make a new pattern and need to make it easier to work with. What type of interfacing would you recommend? I don't plan on reusing the fabric other than use as a pattern for a different garment.
I ironed on interfacing for the first time and the fabric came out wrinkly. I didn't drag the iron across the fabric, just lifting and pressing. My sister suggested steaming along the way to get rid of the wrinkles. Any other suggestions?
Yes please . I expected to find some thing here about tape interfacing . Do their come in different weights also? I have seen a black one I remember in one shop i visited randomly. how and where should they be used?
Thank you so much for this information! I regularly use fusible tricot interfacing for stabilizing linen and taffeta/dupioni silk for use in home decor (pillows) and church projects (banners, stoles, etc) It comes in 60" and I apply it to the whole cloth to give it more heft and reduce the amount of wrinkling. It's lightweight, holds really well and doesn't bubble up like non-woven sometimes can
I have ZERO experience in sewing, but i am tired of having my jeans tearing up in 1 week after using it, and i looked up online about how to reinforce the crotch area, and i saw about use interfacing on it. I will try and see how will it go
Over 20 years ago I scored a roll of fusible interfacing at a garage sale, never seen anything the same since. It’s two different weights along the yardage,one side light and other half medium weight. Cream colour, I have used it for block fusing a jacket front, collars, cuffs, it’s just brilliant. And of course only paid $10 for the lot, bargain. And still have a few metres left
Too many selections and what thickness to use for the clothing project, especially waistband on pants. My sewing teacher never covered this topic in class.
Since so many people have and use embroidery machine and multiple lines of decorative stitches, I was disappointed you did not comment on them. O well, maybe next time.
My absolute first experience with interfacing: I managed to buy the right thing by asking in a proper sewing shop, but it was horribly bulky. The paper pattern just said "cut two fabric, cut two interfacing" so that's what I did! I didn't understand that you need to cut it out without seam allowance...
With these thin nylon fabrics , can be hard to work with. I use interfacing all over on these fabrics to give it more form, rather than being limp & lifeless. These nylon fabrics can be a strain to sew on without it.
I keep getting stuck on a curved front edge blouse which has interfacing. I can never work out what way to pin it on. I know I am pinning to the wrong side of the front and back sections but should I see the white when doing this or not? Should the interfacing lay on my skin when wearing the garment or face the fabric?
Iron in interfacing hates me. I never seem to be able to get the whole thing to stick. Obviously I'm doing something wrong but I haven't figured it out yet.
Thank you! ...does interface stay stuck on after washing? And is it ok to use exposed as a liner for a bag pocket or do I need to add another liner fabric?
Can the ironed fusings soften over the time after being washed frequently? I have not used ironed fusings before that's I have hesitations if it might soften while it gets old.
Whisper weft is beautiful to use, also Shapewell for those special event garments where you need structure underneath. The right interfacing makes a huge difference, collars and cuffs, front placket etc. I have an ironing press and rough cut my facing pieces, fuse interfacing to them and then pin the pattern piece Back on and carefully cut out facing and transfer markings. With soft shifting fabrics this method really helps get accurate facings.
I read online that quilting cotton can be used as sew-on interfacing in a pinch, so I used some I had lying around in the fly in a pair of flannel pj pants. It turned out much too stiff and cardboard-y…next time I’ll use fusible or even just the pattern fabric like people are saying here in the comments!
Biggest challege with interfacing I've had is using it on double gauze. Which I've done exactly once before deciding to just not use that fabric on any pattern suggesting you use interfacing. On reflection, I could probably use a sew-in interfacing, basted into place to within an inch of its life, and onto any piece that joins the other side... But I have yet to find a project I care about enough to do that with.
Thank you so much Evelyn I really really enjoyed listening to you take us all through this topic. And I really really love ❤️ the fusible one. But I am going to try the hair canvas type you told us all about. Please stay safe and well too xxx Mags
Thank you! Appreciate the simplification. I think my biggest challenge has been finding the best sources for interfacing in Canada (fabricland is a joke! And it’s hard to know what to order online) if anyone has any suggestions let me know!
Just leaving a comment here because I struggle with the same thing! I'm new to sewing and the staff at my local Fabricland is so dismissive (nice way of saying rude) to beginners that I'd like to avoid it as much as I can.
@@sweetiedahling8137 I ended up ordering a meter of a few different ones from Blackbird fabrics and they are working well for me! The medium weft and the lightweight one
I have built several short sleeved shirts recently. I found that fusible interfacing adds a lot of bulk in seams if I cut the interfacing with the seam allowance as instructed on the pattern. Basically, In some applications that may be suitable but, I have found that the bulk added makes fitting the collar stand neatly over the plackets very fiddly. I also find that it sometimes interferes with my automatic button hole foot when trying to do the top most button and button hole. So, after looking as various techniques I have decided that for my next shirt, I will cut fusible interfacing for plackets, collar, and collar stand to the finished size and leaving proper seam allowance on the fabric pieces. Wish me luck!