Thanks for your feedback! This is a cut knurling tool. It is different from the form knurling tools which are more often seen on youtube. I made this tool by myself and also made a video on the build process if you are interested.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Please do post the video of the cut knurling tool build. Is there any reason you do the knurl cuts dry instead of using cutting oil?
@@nrml76 here is the link to the video:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vj8pp3YJijg.html When using cutting oil, you have to have plenty of it to wash the chips away. I don't want that mess of a flood coolent so I leave it try. So far it works :)
There's so much about that video that resonates well with me. These small tool boxes with perfect foam inserts for shop made tools, the meticulous execution of both the work and the video production, respect! Plus: about 20 years ago, I started off with metal working with what appears to be a very similar "mill", which was basically a Proxxon spindle with a cross table. I loved how quiet it was. I'm astonished what size projects you manage to do with it.
I gotta say, I'm really impressed!! That came out really good! I absolutely love the design, it's well thought out and will work really well from the looks of it, I love it, beautiful work my friend!
Quienes hemos trabajado con máquinas herramientas , como es mi caso, videos como este nos hacen disfrutar, su projecto y ejecución, demuestran el buen hacer de este MAESTRO, gracias por mostrarnos tan elegante a la vez practica herramienta
Gutten Cut! I don't recall you showing the ER32 collet chuck before so congratulations with a new toy! And just between us, it's a live center, not a life center. Oh, and one more thing: every time you sneeze the chips out from a just-cut hole, I cannot help but picturing Herr Messi who hasn't been starring your videos for quite a while. How're his veegets? You should star him more often.
Hi and thanks for your kind comment! Yes, the collet chuck is new to my lathe. I use it now relatively often, very useful :) And thanks for the hint with the live center. I wanted to write revolving center in the video but forgot to correct.. :/ :D Haha, I will bring him back for sure ;) He was actually in the latest video about electro etching but almost no one watched it.. :)
Hi. Wie immer, hast du gute Ideen und die sind immer begleitet von sauberer und präziser Ausführung. Echt super. Weiter so.👍 Alles gute und bleib gesund.
Thanks for your comment! Yes, I guess that was the case. Unfortunately the little proxxon mill doesn't run lower than 900 rpm. So I almost had no other option than ruining the sawblade :)
Very nice work! Myself, on my best day, I'd just slop something together asap and move on, but I've got to admit that it's a thing of beauty and it totally works! Not to mention that it had to have been a fun project. Thanks for sharing! 🙂
Once again, awesome execution. Love watching how methodical you are in your design and approach to your projects. I too am curious about your ER32 collet chuck. Looks like a good one. I'm looking to replace the Ebay special one I have as the runout is terrible. Would love to hear where you got yours. Thanks for the video! :)
You can usually "Touch Up" the collet chuck once it is mounted on the lathe with the lathe it's-self. Have you verified it is mounted concentric? Have you checked each of the individual collets themselves for concentricity? -- Do This -> Mount the chuck as central as you can, then set your compound to the correct angle of your collet system, then take a very light skim cut, now you are perfect! (Maybe use a Dremel mounted on the tool post and grind in the correct surface finish). Make several registration marks so you can get back to this concentricity after removal + replacement.. Voila!
Hi and thanks for your kind comment! The ER collet chuck I use is from GG-Tools in Germany. I tried 3 different chucks from ebay and elsewhere, all with horrible runouts. This one I got now has an excellent runout. But it seems that something in the manufacturing process went wrong. The chuck is totally coated including all the functional surfaces. That is not normal. All the functional surfaces should be ground after heat treatment and coating. I called the supplier but he doesn't want to see any problem with the product. So that's for your information. The runout is excellent, the coating and the support is questionable.
@@WeCanDoThatBetterWow, that's rare in Europe. The behaviour of the company I mean. I once bought a machinist square (plain, no foot) from MiB Germany, 01 class supposedly. It wasn't even in 02. When I moved it along my flat stones grinding marks revealed. Ondulations (waves) typical for Chinese factories where a part is ran through a surface grinder too fast. I reported everything to the company and got a middle finger. I used the square as a DIY kit. I had to correct it myself.
Estupendo accesorio para este tipo de trabajos, me gustarìa ver el plano de este tope de husillo con sus respectivas medidas, gracias por la informaciòn.
Such an amazing job! New sub here for sure! If I may suggest one thing: machine a point/ballpoint at the end of the stopping rod for repeatability! Greg
You do very good work...but no offence when I say when your knurling and drilling that I've seen you should be using oil especially when knurling helps flush the the small swarf chips away so it doesn't recut the chips into the work..
Very nice design, work and video. Really great sound quality too. Have you found that "ER" type collets work poorly (poor grip strength, poor concentricity etc.) if the part is shorter than the collet's over all length? How will you deal with very short, perhaps small diameter parts? Will you need an assortment of stop rods or stop rod ends with diameters that match the part diameter? Cheers, F.C.
During the making process shown in the video, he uses a piece (an offcut) of same diameter stuff when he is gripping on a short length in the collet. The backstop does not care if it touches this offcut or the stock itself. A single stop rod of a single diameter will do for everything. Use a dab of superglue to hold the offcut to the end of the stop rod while the finished part is removed and the new stock is inserted. The only time it might be necessary to modify it is if he wants to grip a hollow tube whose ID is greater than the stop rod's 'natural' OD.
@@darryllcrook376 Ah......so, an assortment of stop rod ends (offcuts). Brilliant. I hope the collet concentricity will be adequate if/when non-nominal part diameters are held by nominal diameter collets. Maybe switch to a 3-jaw chuck with soft jaws bored to suit? Thank you, F.C.
As you see in the video when I made the long arbor, I inserted a shorter piece of the same diameter to support the collet. I'm thinking about making a thread onto the stop rod, so that I can screw on different tips with different diameters when I have to support a collet.
Yes, thanks for your explanation. I think the "standard" stop rod will do fine for the first time. Perhaps I will make some exchangable tips for it which get screwed on to the rod at some point in the future.
Nice work, but dude, I really had to turn down 5he volume because of your chatter. Please adjust feeds, and speeds. Use heavy cutting oil with your knurling and doit as slow an RPM your machine allows. A Blackwoods pocket edition black book for your cutting speeds and feeds are cheap and very handy.
Thanks for your feedback! Yes, could have done this better. Especially the internal turning operation sang like crazy sometimes. You mean even slower for knurling? I have to look the right speeds up. It is cut knurling and not form knurling. This might be different.
Hey bro, what do you think about making a screw pass marker, so the rewind becomes obsolete, well that's a hypothesis you might be making, right now, great video, greetings from 🇧🇷🇧🇷
What a great video. You always do a great job. Your idea is very useful for machinist. Do you have prints you are willing to share or sell? Thanks for your efforts that you take to produce these excellent videos.
Could you share your thoughts about collet chucks. What would you advise a fresh hobby machinist? Where should a hobby machinist place such a chuck in the upgrades/shopping list? Let's say the freshman only has the lathe with basic set of cutters, only 3 jaw chuck and a dial indicator and calipers :)
You can go far with a three jaw chuck. I would recommend to first upgrade to an independent 4 jaw chuck. These are really versatile for large and small workpieces and give you excellent runout when dialed in correctly. A collet chuck makes work easier when you have a lot of parts to do with the same diameter. It usually runs a lot more true than a 3 jaw chuck and changes of workpieces are a lot quicker than on a 4 jaw chuck. So, it is not necessary in the first place but on some point later it is a good investion.
The rod doesn't have to be exactly the diameter of the collet. There are some cases, when the part is too short to go deep enough into the collet, where the stop needs to be the same size to support the collet when clamped. I think I will machine a thread into the bar so I can screw on different sized tips.
Thanks for your comment! That was probably the problem, but the proxxon mill doesn't go lower than that. For HSS that was too much I guess :) You mean no oil?
I'm not saying I know better, because I certainly don't. Couldn't you just have started with a thick walled pipe and saved time and material? Or would sourcing the pipe be more effort than just grabbing some material already on hand? Regardless, you've earned a subscription! Very well made video!
You are likely right on both points... Pipe would be better work wise, but high alloy pipe aint found cheap nor oft... Its much easier to slurp up a piece from your stash and deal with it adequately to manifest the design... He likely coulda carburized and hardened the pipe to make it a worthwhile piece of steel, but that woulda deformed the pipe like a car wreck and make it unworkable to anything but grinders at that wall thickness in a way... Starting with a piece of high alloy steel like chrome molybdenum steel gives you a piece with decent wear characteristics, resistance to oxidation to a some extent and so on...
Hi and thanks for your comment and for subscribing! I really do appreciate that. In this case where the part in the end is basically a thin wall tube, starting from a piece of tubing would be great. I wanted a kind of hard tool steel for this purpose and I don't know if this is even produced as a tubing. And I had this cutoff flying around from a former project, so I don't had to buy something new :) But yes, removing so much metal in tough steel on the windy lathe is a little bit painful ;)
11:17 Reduce speed (if possible) 50% and enter for the first cut 2/3 the width of the knurling tool cutting face. Enter first cut with the machine off and engage feed quickly after turning on the spindle. This is not to say that this knurl is of poor quality, far from it. It's a good looking knurl!
1.5 There are some that are taught to use a comma for a decimal point. I've no idea why but I've seen it often enough over the years that either way registers the same automatically lol.
Its a single and a half degree taper, so in essence, a very steep taper with minimal change of dimension over the length to achieve an immense leverage effect, also locks hard as fuck, as was seen with him having to smack the tapers apart... Its also colloquially known as mandrel taper, as most machinist mandrels rely on such shallow tapers for location and retention... I dont know where you found the zeroes after the 1.5, but lets say that the protractor shoulda explained that 1.5 degrees refers to angular offset of the cut...
I meant a 1 and a half degree of angle on the compound slide, actually resulting in a 3 degree total taper. Meaning it is a very shallow taper but it's enough to squeeze the mandrel firmly in place and lock the device in the spindle.
Отпилю кругляк ножовкой, Вручную дырок насверлю. А напильником я ловко заусенцы уберу. После каменной бумаги я пришъю её к штатам , потерялась ведь однажды моя пуговица там!
Jesus spoke these words, lifted up His eyes to heaven, and said: “Father, the hour has come. Glorify Your Son, that Your Son also may glorify You, 2 as You have given Him authority over all flesh, that He should give eternal life to as many as You have given Him. 3 And this is eternal life, that they may know You, the only true God, and Jesus Christ whom You have sent. 4 I have glorified You on the earth. I have finished the work which You have given Me to do. 5 And now, O Father, glorify Me together with Yourself, with the glory which I had with You before the world was. John 17:1-5
