The bolt holes on the crankshaft are drilled all the way through. make sure to use a good thread sealant when you put the flywheel bolts back in, otherwise you’ll have another oil leak that makes you think it’s the rear main when it’s not.
You are absolutely correct on that point. I used thread sealer and installed the seal dry per the instructions. When I took the seal back out, I did find some nicks and a ridge at the back of the crank that are probably the source of the leak. I have a speedi-sleeve and new seal on order. I'll provide an update on the next video after I install it and re-run my test. Thanks.
Well, I don't know what im missing on tuning because that engine sounded perfect!! Its crazy how a stock engine with factory manifolds can sound so beautiful. I envy the calm , orderly environment of your garage. The editing was pretty slick too.
I was pretty amazed that it ran so good with just static timing and a freshly rebuilt carb that I did no tuning on yet. The open manifolds may be hiding some flaws. I just dropped the engine back in my truck and will be starting it up sometime this week. We'll see how it sounds with a proper exhaust system. Watch for the part 5 video coming soon. Thanks for the compliments.
When I'm in the middle of a big project, my shop is usually the opposite of clean and organized. I can't count how many times I've set down a tool and spent the next 10 minutes looking for it in the mess. I'm glad you enjoyed my video. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching the series on my truck and for subscribing. I just started a new project on a 1949 Willys pickup. I posted an introduction video a few weeks ago. This project will take a bit more time and I'll be posting videos of my progress.
I'm still waiting on a rear main seal. Once that shows up I'll test run to make sure there are no leaks and then I'm ready to go. In the meantime, I'm prepping to pull the old engine. Still deciding on whether to pull the whole front clip off or just the radiator. Stay tuned.....
Good eye. I'm surprised at the things people spot in my videos that have nothing to do with the subject. I wear those Sorels every day in the winter. Can't beat them for comfort and warmth.
I appreciate it. I'm currently working on a 1949 Willys pickup. I've got a bunch of videos up on my channel on that project if you want to follow along.
You're welcome. These engines are as tough as they come. Check out binderplanet.com for more info on IH trucks and Scouts. They have a lot of really knowledge members and great forums.
I was considering a 345 for my 1949 KB2 but the massive weight of all IH V8s pretty much precludes that. Looking for other options. Hate to stray from The International family but there doesn't seem to be any way to make one work.
I don't know what a flat head from that era weighs, but the IH OHC six cylinders from the 50s weigh in at nearly 700lbs. There may not be a huge difference in weight between that 49 flat head and a 345. It's worth researching before writing off an IH V8.
You're right. I bought the other radiator a couple years before I started the project with the expectation that I'd keep the truck up and running while I worked on the spare engine. I ended up doing the work over the winter while my truck was in hibernation, so I could have grabbed the radiator out of it for my burn-in. Once I have an idea in my head, I don't always reconsider easier routes.
IH used Borg Warner and Chrysler 727 automatics in the SV engine family. The bolt pattern is specific to these engines, so you can't interchange from a Chrysler or other brand. I suggest going to the General Tech forum in binderplant.com for more information.
I always put a light coat of Permatex Indianhead around the outside of the seal, but nothing on the inside of the seal that mates up with the crank. The manufacturer of the seal specifically says "do not put oil or any other material on the seal to crank portion of the seal.
You're right. I could have done that. My plan was to toss that 345 into my truck temporarily while I rebuilt my original engine. I picked up that extra radiator because I thought my truck would still be on the road. Plans changed when I got a closer look at my temporary engine and I decided to do a little more work before putting in the truck.
I have asked this question before and never got a response. Have you ever heard about resetting the camshaft timing on the 1971-72 model 345 do to the new emissions laws of the seventies? I know for a fact that the valve timing was retarded and you could adjust it my setting the cam gear off the mark by one tooth. My dad did it to our 72 IH Travelall, and later as I became a diesel mechanic in the 80s I did it myself for a customer.
I don't have an answer on that question, but maybe someone else reading through these comments can provide some insight. Fortunately, my replacement engine is a 1969.
@@stevevukich8958 probable, but my question still stands. I have offset the valve timing by one tooth one 345 IH engines that came after 72 and had emission components. I learned this trick back in the 70s and was wondering if anyone else did. no responses yet.
