Intro to Compression Endmills for CNC Woodworking 

Who could down vote a short, very precise, informative video like this. This was new information for me since I've never heard of compression end mills. Thanks for taking the time to inform us all.

Hi there!!! As you, I also learned the cnc “things” by myself and after some years of wood and metal working I concluded that I have to use ALWAYS appropriate tools for the material I am cutting... wood mills for wood, aluminum mills for aluminum, steel tools for steel and so on... for wood try the straight wood mills, they are awesome and always give you the right finish.. I know that having several “collections” of tools might become expensive but it pays off after you mill your pieces. Never go cheap on tools because they last much less and you spend much more time finishing your pieces by end when they can come out finished from the machine... what you spend on manual working over time pays lots of expensive tools Time is money!!!!!

Great video Winston! Thanks for giving our tools a try!

Thanks Winston. This helps me decide what type of endmill to use on different materials.

Super helpful. I was just trying to find out how to get better cuts on my plywood projects. I thought it was just a dull bit. But I need to also check if I was using up cut or down.

Very informative! I didn’t even know compression end mills existed before this video! - Cay

The only time i use a 3 flute compression bit on plywood is when the cuts are not gonna be seen, otherwise i use both straight plunge and insert straight bits. I really enjoy your videos, keep it up.👍🏻

haha I love the ending humorous portion like a pharmaceutical company :P

Another great video Winston.

I had the same problem before and came to my solution to combine straight cut endmills for the "Top" oparation 1mm depth or so with up cutters. The result the dust/chips get cleaned easily. Followed by a pass by pass cutting down (0,5mm offset from the contour) with a up-cutter and a final cleaning pass of 0,5mm sidecut to not stress the top of the parts too much. Or if your spindle can do it, try a full depth - slow movement with a straight cutter.

Thanks Winston. Great video as always.

Niceeeeeeee video Mr. Moy, but where is the straight flute cutter comparison (PS Not an end mill but a straight 2 flute router cutter)? PS Love the ending!

I have never seen these types of end mills before. I am a machinist so that might be why. I am trying to get into CNC wood working so I will try one of these out.

Great video mate

great presentation.

Great info Winston, thanks for sharing.

nice tips, thank you.

Good result with corn bit for top 1-2mm and then change tool to up-cut.

Roughing with up cut, coated carbide with very sharp cutting edges, and aggressive positive rake, variable helix and variable pitch. Finish with down cut. Very high rpm, with coated carbide meant for high rpm, high heat, and low fpt. This works sometimes, and sometimes doesn't work.

Thanks for sharing.

Haha. Great video Winston.

Pro tip! Consider using a down spiral tool, but leave an intentional skin on the bottom of the part, and then use a router table with a flush trimming bit to achieve a clean edge on the bottom face

Could you share the feed and speed settings you used for these tests Winston?

Great video! I have one recommendation as a trained public speaker. When doing technical presentations, if you slow-down the pace slightly, you allow the audience more time to process the information. Not trying to be negatively critical, just a thought to improve your already awesome video! Thanks again 👍👍👍

try a layer or 2 of painter's tape on the top or bottom of the plywood to cut down on veneer chipping.

What are the work holding clamps you show in this video?

Thanks for your trainings. Interested in receiving any of your prizes

Hey thanks for the video, i also use fusion 360, only issue i have with it is it doesnt have a axiom cnc post processor, i have asked people at autodesk to make one, someone there took some time and made modified one of them, but its still not perfect. One question more along your video, i really want a bit that can run much faster than these spiral bits do through wood, any ideas? I recently purchased a 4 flute bit, seemed better, but options are limited beyond that

Hi Winston, I really enjoy your videos. I want to cut 3mm ply in one cut can you recommend an end mill? Newbe

With the compression bit, can you just plunge straight down to full depth before starting the profile cuts? Or does it need to be ramped/spiraled? Without linear movement I am worried about the chips not evacuating and breaking the end mill.

Hey Winston love your videos where did you get the 1/4 inch collet for the makita router

What would you use for corrugated plastic? Bit, feed, and speed?

Your voice sounds like younger, more high pitched/brighter (sound brightness) NYCNC :)

So machine type and bit type should be factored right?

This can be used manually using router?

What kind of coating does the compression have? Why so many passes?

As a beginner CNC operator I am looking at costs can somebody use Dremel bits on their CNC machine I guessing they won't last as long but is that an option to start learning process

Could you run the spindle backwards to get the same result as a compression bit? I have a 3 phase spindle controlled by a VFD that would allow me to do this. I'm pretty sure there is a G-code command for spindle direction so it's in the realms of possibility to make it change halfway through the operation and then you wouldn't need to create a custom toolpath or buy an expensive endmill. Just thinking out loud here. Has anyone else tried this?

This is a comment on a cheap 3mm compression endmill on Amazon. Is that part about saw dust true? Sounds like a potential fire hazard. "I use these for cutting single pass 12mm & 15mm baltic birch plywood. The advantage of these mini compression bits is the packed sawdust they leave in the kerf. For my CNC cuts I do not program any hold-down tabs and the parts stay in place because the sawdust packs so tightly, in fact I need to punch them out after the machining is complete. I've been getting 2-3 full sheets of plywood per cutter, so price per longevity is a bargain."

Jang!

How do you make that tool path? Mine just wants to cut the whole circle...

Still using that 12v makita circular saw? You should upgrade ;)

Great video man. Where do you get your long 1/8 endmills from?

Try straight flute for the same operation, and that'll cost you $5.

Can't you just take one pass with the compression? I use compression bits exclusively. I cut lots of 3/4" plywood and generally just take one pass with a feed rate of 120 inch/min. But my CNC has a 5 horse spindle so...

I really wanted to hit like, but as of today (2019-07-12, 07:14 UTC, the video has 666 likes, and I cant just screw that up :P

I've just watched a guy with 1/8 compression bit cutting 3/4" ply in single pass at 50-70ipm. Unbelievable, but that is what the bit supplier is advertising it as and he showed it working. I couldn't see my 24v spindle cutting at that speed, he was on an Avid Pro. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-n-1w5Yg0AJ0.html

First thing to know is you CNC fast enough and powerful enough for a Compression Bit. Ok let us see first figure chip load at .010 for .25-inch bit cutting depth .375 to .5 inch two flutes 1600 RPM on spindle Reed rate at 320 inch per minute can your CNC do this? if it can then you wasting your money on Compression bits. They will get to hot and burn up. Just go back to a cheaper two flute uncut and you do much better and have more money in your pocket. Running CNC is to know how to figure chip load if you have a 1 to 3 hp spindle and only can move 100 inches a minute you never going to be able to figure proper chip load so go with the cheaper bits

Why do you need a DIAMOND coated $80 bit to cut wood??? I love your videos, but comeon! I can't afford bits that expensive. Should of done a review on a standard compression bit that costs $20. without any fancy diamond coatings.

lol