This is a very interesting hub motor design. I like how compact it is overall. I looked at your website at the specs and couldn't find approximate torque specs of the motor/esc. It is a simple test. You mount the motor on the edge of a table using a string wrapped around it. Use a small bucket and add weight until the motor can't lift the bucket. Measure the weight after and that is the torque. Sand makes a good measurement weight.
That test doesn't really work for sensorless brushless motors since they aren't capable of delivering any reasonable stall torque and their behavior is entirely dependant on the ESC they are connected to. I will test spinup times with weapons as a useful metric as that gives more relevant data with the specific esc I sell
@@JustCuzRobotics that is true, but there are a bunch of us that use drum / egg beater style weapons. Maybe even something that works with the finger tech drum. You may even want to tackle plants.
I have a design suggestion regarding the disassembly process. If you thread the central M4 hole all the way through rather than making it blind, you can then insert a longer M4 bolt from the opposite side. You'd still need one bolt-on piece for it to press against, but that will then make it easier to separate rather than having to try to pull it apart by hand. This also simplifies the manufacturing slightly as it's no-longer a blind threaded hole.
I don't think that makes it easier to separate, the issue with pulling it apart is that there is a central magnet ring pressed onto the two out hub clamshells. Seperating the two halved of the blue part is easy and pushing just on one would leave the orange hub pressed to the magnet ring on both sides and just push out the blue shaft/ or the stator + bearing on one side. I might change it to a through hole for manufacturing if it's actually cheaper but I doubt it makes too much difference.
@@JustCuzRobotics Oh sorry yes you're right, I missed that. The manufacturing aspect depends on the operations used, if you're threading it to the end with a second plug tap after the taper tap then it saves that operation. It also makes it easier to clear the swarf afterwards but whether or not it's cheaper depends on the manufacturer.
Idk why you would want that, your wheels would have next to no torque, and extremely high speed especially at the minimum 50mm diameter. I have been thinking about trying to make a drive hubmotor but I don't know if it's feasible at 1lb or 3lb scale. Brushless motors lose a lot of power at low voltage when you make them really low KV.
I haven't had much time to run tests yet as these are brand new and I just ordered final production motors without any samples first. I'm travelling the rest of this week but hoping to get some testing underway later this month and can report on the power and current draw for different weapon sizes then.
Absolutely not. They have predatory fees and a lot of other nonsense that would drive up the costs of this already somewhat expensive product. These things cost a ton of money to produce so I want to pass as much of the savings to the customer as I can running my own site and packing and shipping orders myself.
hey these,could you please help me with one query? I have got a 50-65 dimension bldc motor for 30lb combat robotics.Mean time,I have got only 100A redbrick esc.Is it wise to plug it in and play or it is foolish? The weight that I am putting into the weight of weapon is around 5.5lbs.The motor that I am using is N5065-400kv 1800w 12-16v .Is it really worth to use ?
That will probably be fine if you stay in the limits of the voltage described in the product listing for the motor. Not sure if its the same one but I googled "N5065-400kv" and the first aliexpress listing just says "Recommended ESC 80A" so 100A should be okay. But a huge weapon might increase the load on the motor more than what its designed for, so I can't be certain its a great idea. If you wanna take the risk and find out you can always try!