great design . in rc scratch building with foam board we use regular hot glue guns on the foam . it bonds like CA glue without the brittleness . the pieces are darn near welded together
I believe so, hoping to start building an overland expedition mobile in 1 years time, doing my studeies now and it seems fiberglass insusion is the way for my box/cabin. My main worry is humidity to destroy things and especially inside. I think good fiberglass and aluminum primer will do the job!!!!!!!
With an exception. Well not really an exception so much as a difference. The squareness of a camper needs to be attended to strengthwise. All the curves in a boat get naturally ’strong’ whereas with campers you need to assure torsional load transfers with out ‘point loads’ at intersections of the sides.
It seems really easy to work with, fast and straight forward. I wonder why so many amateur boat builders, especially catamaran boat builders, go the plywood/fiberglass route.
Availability and shipping are a factor. I can buy marine ply in ATL pretty easily... foam core not so much. That said, after two small ply boats, my next will be foam core. Too many better possibilities with foam vs ply.
Down Under a lot of cat boat builders use this method, or balsa cores instead of foam, to build extremely light and strong boats (which then are very fast under sail with better payloads). Hardly anyone here builds with plywood / glass any more, that's 1960's construction technique. It's all balsa / glass / epoxy construction now, with many vacuum bagging as well to further reduce weight.
@@ApprenticeGM Not experienced at all with this way of constructing, but assume a lot of planning and forethought goes into designing strength in higher stress areas that typically a plywood builder would just glass over as part of the whole boat.
What’s a square foot of plywood compared to a square foot of foam? Cost wise? That’s a start. The second thing is that plywood has a structural element that foam cannot match: all the strength of building over foam has to do with the fiberglass and (to a small degree) the adhesion to the foam. Wood/plywood on the other hand has an intrinsic strength it donates along with it acting as a form.
Thanks for this video. I know it's an older one, but in case you're still reading this: Do you (or anybody else reading this) have an idea what a typical foamcore thickness in larger production boats (/catamarans) is? Let's say for a typical boat with 12 m length. And what's a typical fiberglass thickness (g/m2) of the inner and outer skin around this foamcore? Google doesn't give me any good answers. ~ Also: is there any reason not to use XPS foam (the stuff that's used for house insulation, e.g. Styrodur, i.e. the closed-cell stuff and _not_ EPS)? I know it comes with some (solvable) challenges with some of the very rounded parts like e.g. the bow shape because it doesn't bend easily (almost not at all), but it can easily be cut into shape with an electrical saw (and correcting surface details with a pad sander also works very well). The reason: I think beyond being incredibly low cost (and much more affordable than PVC foam or honeycomb materials), it actually has great properties, especially being very resistent to compression (entire houses are standing on this stuff, despite of it's low density of only ~35 kg/m3), which is the one thing the fiberglass (tensile and torsion forces) can't do. It's also waterresistent and works with epoxy (but not polyester resin). And good ol' low cost wood glue also sticks to it quite well and can conveniently be used to keep parts together before the glassing stage.
The short answer is there is no typical laminate schedule using foam core. Every boat is engineered differently. For example, some might use a thinner core with a thicker fiberglass laminate while others use a thicker core with lighter laminate. A lot of work and consideration goes into designing a proper laminate schedule on any boat, especially a catamaran.
XPS has very low shear strength compared to PVC cores. It's good in compression though (hence it's under slab usage). It can be used for some things, but you need to be careful.
@@firemanjim324 - Home Depot Foams are not Boat Building "Structural Foam", as they are Insulation Foams, but might suffice, if Water Absorbing Property is not a matter of interest, as well as UV Tolerance challenges are not a concern.
@@scotthummel4248 - West Epoxy Suppliers, likely have Choices if Cores, including this type. Boat Building Suppliers. "Aircraft Spruce" catalog or website, are also Options.
Interesting method using a female mold with strips of foam. I have been trying to come up with a way to build a vintage jet boat. Length around 17- 18 ft. Big block engine with a Berkely jet pump. With enough for thought the mold could be made so there would be no hull to deck seam.
I thought this was a great video. Well narrated and demonstrated, but I don't see how this is superior to plywood in strength and rigidity? I get that it is more weather resistant but you can get that from plywood if you cover it with FG and epoxy and vacuum infuse it properly.
+gus bisbal. Plywood is stronger as a core material, but since closed cell foam is significantly lighter, a foam sandwich can have a thicker core with more layers of glass for the same weight as a wood sandwich. The extra glass and core material can mean the foam core is actually stronger and much more rigid. Structural rigidity of a part in bending is proportional to the thickness *cubed*. Every time the thickness doubles, the resistance to bending octuples. The maximum stress in bending is at the outer surfaces of a part, so thicker glass at the edges also helps resist bending as well as increasing the tensile strength of the sandwich. Regardless of strength, the foam is easier to work with and, as you said, resistant to weather/delamination without any additional steps. That said, wood still wins in terms of sheer strength. It's like aluminum vs steel. While the foam sandwich boat can be lighter and/or more rigid, it will still always be easier to put a hole in the side of one than a comparable boat with a wood core. But it's not like either boat would come out unscathed in a point impact, so you have to ask which would be easier to repair. My money is on the foam core, since it's easier to work and especially since you don't have to worry about areas around the repair rotting after the fact.
until you have made a foam core sandwich you just can't believe how strong and stiff it can be. (wood is still stronger but foam is very very very strong too)
High Modulus built the hull of the 124' superyacht Ermis2, the 2nd or 3rd fastest yacht in the world(60 knots WOT)with a 10" sandwich of Airex foam overlaid with carbon fiber/kevlar to withstand 2.2 gravity entry in heavy seas. So they agree with your assessment of the strength of foam. It's amazing to see Ermis2 come to a complete stop from 60kn almost within its own length with triple KaMeWa waterjets.
Plywood is SOOO much heavier than the foam board, and Marine Plywood is also more expensive. Plywood is around 2 lb/SF + the fiberglass coating. Foam is 65% lighter. Both need the fiberglass overlay. The strength of the plywood is not enough to make plywood preferable. Stick to the foam. Nobody wants to deal with a plywood boat in 30 yrs. I'd always choose an aluminum or fiberglass/foam boat over a plywood boat.
Hi. I want tu build trimaran with foam sandwich metod. The size is 6 meter length and 1 meter width. How I started? I want to have strong and light boat.
Thank you for the video. This video didn't explain the structural integrity very well. It seems there would be weak points where the two halves meet. Also weak points where the bulk head meets the planks. Can you explain this more if only in a reply here?
There's no weak points - the fibreglass is what gives it strength. After the 2 halves are joined another layer of fibreglass is applied, usually on both sides (inside and out) and that's where you get the strength, not relying on whatever join you had. This is the basis for sandwich construction, where the 2 outer layers are held apart by the core (think of it like webbing in an I beam) and the whole thing is very strong and very light. As for where bulkheads meet planks, again you are fibreglassing over the shape created not relying on the join. It helps to build up a small radius at the joins eg in Q-cell or thickened resin so the glass isn't doing a hard 90 degree bend.
Rune Martin Guildberg - No. Just a good Surface Coat on the Foam, a few Thousandths of an inch thick. The Resin is a Primer, and a Binder, but the S-Glass, Kevlar, or Carbon Fibre is the Strength. The Cores add Separation, causing Skins to Load up more in Tension & Compression, than in Bending - making the Total Stronger.
Would it be a good or bad idea to build the entire boat from foam then fiberglass all the foam in one go, rather than the traditional fabrication method. Of course fitting in solid material for were fixtures will be before the glass is applied. If it is a bad idea, can you explain why.
HI MY CRABBER FRIEND TOLD ME A BOAT BILDERS SECRET. PAINT THE STYROFOAM WITH 2 COATS OF LATEX PAINT LET IT DRY AND THEN USE POLYESTER AND FIBERGLASS CLOTH . I HAVE NOT TRIED IT SO DONT GET MAD AT ME IF IT DOESN'T WORK. DO A SMALL TEST FIRST.
When you "wet out" the foam, do you wait until its dry before you place your glass on? In the video it looked like your glass didn't stick to the resin when you flopped it on the bulkhead.
+Pig Farmer Ben With epoxy it is critical when you apply the next coat. You wait until it is "late stage gel" And then on to the next step. It you wait for a hard cure you then have 2 major problems with bonding. 1 being it becomes a secondary bond and the surface must be scuffed. 80 grit is usually recommended. 2 being the big big big one. Amine blush. If you use retail grade epoxy or almost any pro grade you get blush. That is the reaction between humidity in the air and the hardener. It leaves an oily film on the surface preventing adhesion. It must be cleaned of with clean hot water only. Solvent does not cut it. Neither does soap. Rinsed and wiped off and then sanded. If it is sanded before it will grind the blush into the surface. By using a non/low blushing epoxy like West 105/207 or system3 clear coat you get better secondary bonding. When I start the inside of a craft the epoxy never cures hard till it is done. Same at the outside. I even apply light amounts of faring compound in places I know I will need it so it cures as one solid mass.
@@tireballastserviceofflorid7771 How are you preventing the epoxy from curing hard before you're completely done? I'd have thought it would be very difficult to complete a project that fast.
Dalt Wisney the foam has nothing to do with the flotation. Compare two boats, one built of foam one of metal, assuming they have the same weight and same hull shape they will have the same buoyancy. Check out Archimedes principle
No, the foam is closed cell which means you cannot suck the air out, open cell foam allows air and water to pass through it. Closed cell boat foams specifications always say whether you can use infusion, ie will not deform with 1atm of pressure.
If I wanted to do a 1 off build, 55' long...and you had 3 yrs to do the job.. would you ever consider using this same method to do a larger sized boat? Saves money on the mold being that you can cut the mold costs in half, is what I am thinking. Or am I crazy?
Looks like Airex C70 or similar. No divinycell, which works as well. Plenty of closed cell foams out there that work. Polyumac had some interesting ones, so does CarbonCore. Check the specs. As for “how big can I build” questions... that depends on a lot of things. Design, lamination schedule, lots of things factor in. Done right, there isn’t much the average home builder can come up with that foam core won’t work for.
Excellent explanation! How many layers of fiberglass do you use on each side? If, the answer is yes, do you have to consider a specific orientation-angle between each one of the layers? Thanks! Thumbs up!
So you fiberglassed in the inside, and then you stripped it from the wood form, and then fiberglass the backside. Correct? So a both that is 1 layer foam thickness? You say 5.5 lb/CF foam. What is this when buying foam as H60, H80 ?
Chaddyjp Campbell fiberglass with foam core construction is very strong. Numerous boats built with foam core construction sail the high seas with decades of service. The trick to a strong build is the right glass to resin ratio. Too much and it's brittle, too little and it's very weak in the spots that don't asorb resin.
HDPE foam is whats used in Building those offshore boats but to sandwhich core you could use the two part 4lb density available at any Boat Building supplyers but is polyester better then OMG brain fog but also use two layers of chop strand may @ 1.5 longitude and then opposite way with 1708 and 24oz or 32oz wovenroven
For this demonstration we used 5.5 lbs/ cu. ft Airex foam but any brand of closed-cell structural foam compatible with epoxy will work. The foam can be found at most online and local boatbuilding supply companies.
Thank you for making this video because books don't really show you how easy this can be for the average person. I might try this on a small scale to gain experience then move up to novice? Thanks again.
Looks like a great way to build except for the epoxy. Epichlorohydrin, one of the constituents of the epoxy resin monomer is a skin sensitizer. In addition, epichlorohydrin is classified as carcinogenic in the category, ‘presumed human carcinogen’, according to the EU classification.
Realistically, how large of a boat can you build with foam core??? I am seriously considering the Glen L boat the Herculese. I think it is 24 or 25FT long and can be extended by 10%. This boat would have a forward berth, head and shower room/area, small stove and sink and a cock pit for fishing. It is shrimp boat and or trawler design. The original plans are for plywood and fiberglass.
There is no limit to how large a foam core constructed vessel can be. However, the hull laminate schedule and structure has to be designed for this type of construction.
Almost anybody can build a boat large enough to liveaboard. The method demonstrated is very good. You can also build a strongback and lay strips of cedar along its' length and then apply fibre glass. Use good quality epoxy resin. Avoid plywood, even if it's 1066 grade, use closed cell foam for the bulkheads.
"COMPATIBLE WITH EPOXY" One of the most important things you said - but barely! I just watched video about having to paint foam with 4 to 5 coats of interior latex so the foam wouldn't melt from the thermal action of the epoxy! Does Home Depot and the likes carry the foam needed?
No, you will not find structural foam core at a big box store. Divinycell, Airex, Klegecell, CarbonCore, Corecell, and others can be purchased through local or online marine supply stores.
The epoxy won't melt the foam. What you were probably seeing is someone trying to use polyester resin on polystyrene foam. They are incomparable since the styrene in the polyester resin will melt polystyrene, hence the barrier of latex. Not a good idea for anything structural.
For this demonstration we used 5.5 lbs/ cu. ft Airex foam but any brand of closed-cell structural foam compatible with epoxy will work. The foam can be found at most online and local boatbuilding supply companies.
The foam needs to have a high shear strength, hardware shop foam does not work well at all. The cost of the hardware shop foam compared to the boat building foam will be a tiny percentage of the cost of the boat.
Great method! I'm very much considering building a Glen-L slide-in camper. I want to try and keep the weight to a greatest minimum as possible. In this case, what is the hull strength and integrity for your foam core hull? Specifically, overall strength
It depends on how thick you lay the glass. For a slide out on a camper, I'd probably frame it out of 1x2's , with gussets , 5mm plywood (underlayment) , and some XPS foam sandwiched in between. 3 -4 layers of 7oz tight weave cloth on the outside, and 2 on the inside. Use epoxy resin as it's stronger than polyester resin and it's completely waterproof, whereas the polyester isn't ...
For this demonstration we used 5.5 lbs/ cu. ft Airex foam but any brand of closed-cell structural foam compatible with epoxy will work. The foam can be found at most online and local boatbuilding supply companies.