I was very impressed to see you checking the Do level on the knockout wort........man that's very nice........attention to detail....... cheers man.......nice video
2:55 well done for adjusting pH of the sparge water! I wish commercial craft breweries did it, I hate the woody tannin taste in commercial NEIPAs that they describe as juicy on the can blurb 😖
Thank you! Yea I have pretty much everything on my Amazon page (link below). My current brewhouse is a 15-gal Tank Trio from Spike Brewing Check out this page from ryanmichaelcarter www.amazon.com/shop/ryanmichaelcarter?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_aipsfshop_aipsfryanmichaelcarter_NFHW4FVFQDJ5A1G2C26Y&language=en_US
What percentage of power do you run on your boil? Like do start at 100% and then drop during the boil and to what? Also how do you combat the hot break besides adding the anti foaming agent so you don't have a mess?
Hey Brian, I first start at full power, then kick it down to 72%. It'll depend a bit on your elevation, but for me, 72% is enough to get a rolling boil without boilovers. At this power setting, the anti-foam agent is enough to keep everything in my kettle.
Thank you, awesome video Ryan! Question: how do you clean your equipment? I have a 15 Gallon kettle and I always feel that I'm wasting too much water and PBW. Do you have any tips on that matter?
Thanks Antoine! After the brew I'll rinse out the bulk trub/hops then connect all of my tubing in a big giant loop. I'll recirculate 3 gallons of PBW solution at 150F for about 30 minutes. Then I'll drain the cleaner and add another 3 gallons of water, heat to 180F, and recirculate for another 10 minutes to rinse/sanitize. I do not include the mash tun in this loop.. I just dump the grain and wash that thing by hand with the leftover PBW. I frequently get questions about my cleaning process so I think I'm going to put together a video soon to better show my process.
Thanks Jonathan! Let me know if there's ever any specific videos you'd like to see. The filter is one I found on Amazon and is great for using pre heat-exchanger. I still use a mesh bag/hop spider for larger hop additions, but I have never had a clogged HX since installing the filter. Here's the filter I have: amzn.to/3JgRHcG
Love this video. I've been trying to figure out your valves and flow from the Instagram vids. I have just gotten the 2v system and will brew next week. I picked up some great tips watching this. Are you using 2 pumps total? I'm thinking that valve tree will be my next addition but not sure if it can attach to my stainless table.
Thanks Sean! Yes, I use two pumps on the brewhouse. I have one for the HLT and a second one for the valve tree. I think I may make another vid exclusively about the brewhouse routing and flow paths. Would that be useful?
Hey Ryan, glad to meet you. I'm originally from Seal Beach (near you, I believe?) but now in Japan. I'm teaming up to start a 1bbl brewery with the same system you've shown here from BrewTech. How long is your brewday? How long does cleanup take?
@@ryanmichaelcarter Thanks man! Don't know how I missed that. I am in the market for a chronical and have been considering the SS Brewtech Chronical 2.0 and the Spike version. I am leaning towards the SS Brewtech at this point and I am so glad you are making videos now.
@@lhard77 Awesome! The Chronical 2.0 is pretty sweet. I recently brewed batches in both the 7gal and 1/2BBL and was really happy with them. The lid-mounted coil is such a huge upgrade compared to the previous BME version. Plus the new little Pure Flow Sample valves are really cool
Cheers my friend! I have a bit more detail on Instagram, but I dry hop through the top TC port on the unitank. If it’s a post-fermentation dry hop, then I’ll also purge the top with CO2. But I don’t use a hop doser or anything (one of the biggest homebrewing gimmicks of them all).
I use an old Ss chiller.. I don’t recommend it though, it’s pretty overpriced for what it is. I don’t use a heating pad, only because I live in Southern California and it’s typically pretty warm here. But if it gets cold where you live, I’d definitely recommend a heating pad
Hey Jeff, yea there is usually about 0.25-0.5gallons remaining in the system after I transfer to the fermenter. One cool way to transfer the rest of the liquid after the pump is to use a tee with a gas fitting. This is not something I do, but CO2 can be used to push the remaining wort into the fermenter.
@@ryanmichaelcarter I have the same system and I'm usually around 80%. I keep trying to bump it up by doing slow sparging, better crush (thanks to you), better recirculation, etc. I'm on my way!
@@mattgiovanisci 80% is great! I honestly almost never get above 85%. What really helps with efficiency is a super slow lauter (+45 mins for 8-9 gallons) and a hot sparge (168-170F) with a relatively constant flow rate. And of course, grain crush as you mentioned. Before sparging, I'll lauter just enough until I have almost no wort above the grain bed. Then I'll kick on the sparge pump until I have about 1 inch above the bed. Then try and maintain that fluid level until you have your full volume in the kettle.
I’m not too sure as it’s been accumulated over years. Most of my gear is from Ss Brewtech. There is a bunch of different equipment/kits on the website.
That's one I built from parts from Amazon.. I have it all here: www.amazon.com/shop/ryanmichaelcarter/list/Q081LNI0MZOW?ref_=aipsflist_aipsfryanmichaelcarter
Yea it usually falls around mid 3’s, but just a heads up- this is with 100% reverse osmosis water. The goal for the sparge water acidification is to keep the lauter pH under 5.6-6
@@romanzaitsev2309 Thanks man! I am thinking I'll do another video that explains more about the brewhouse flow paths and how I have everything connected. Do you think that would be helpful?