IPD issued informational DVD on changing red block Volvo timing belts and seals 240/740/940 I am I'm not now nor have I ever been affiliated with IPD parts or any other branch of IPDUSA
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28 окт 2014
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Комментарии : 67
9 лет назад
A good video of something that I do weekly, but so much more could have been shown. A video of this job IN THE CAR would be a great improvement. And the replacement of the two lower seals, by removing the timing cover, would be proper. The water pump fan studs are a frequent source of trouble, and the cam gear bolts are not so easy to remove sometimes. The proper fitting of the crank pulley, with all three belts in place, could almost be its own video. But I'm doing this actually IN the engine compartment, where I'd imagine you are too. All new timing belts will have alignment marks to mate with the cam dots and crank notch.
@@ethixhiggins5059 air condition? power steering ? alternator as you mentioned. And timing belt is the fourth. Actually there are four on my 1998 940 station wagon
Thanks guys! Watching this video gave me the confidence to go ahead and do it myself! Good to know if I mess up no damage will be caused to the motor due to my potential error on belt alignment!
For 20 years I have been driving redblocks (7-900's) that were mostly 'pre-loved' (yes that word makes me cringe but it can be true) and sometimes 'pre-neglected', I've driven them hard (not so much in Holland but during my years on the Balkans), and although I had sometimes very old belts in the cars they never ripped on me. By now I drive a mint '97 940 which I service meticously in every respect, including the belts. This particular job for me (a DIY-er) is so simple and straight-forward that in my garage shed I can do it in under half an hour easily. On long trips I bring a spare timing belt (along with a few other critical parts), even stranded on the roadside I'll do it in less than an hour with a very basic set of tools, a 24 socket for the big pulley and a bottle of orange nail polish (for timing markings on belt and gears).
Great video. It is amazing how many people complain when they must not have paid much attention to your remarks about this not being for the 16 valve, Just did my sons Volvo 244 and since the upper plastic timing cover is missing the timing marks your video came in handy. Original belt was off by a tooth. now she has the power that she was meant to have. thanks.
Not all engines in this family are non interference. The 16v engines (B234F) are inteference engines aswell as the carbureted B200K and B230K engines. The B200K and B230K were specced for high compression, the B230K has the flat 631 head with the combustion chambers in the pistons instead of the head, and as such will damage the valves if the timing belt breaks or is incorrectly installed. The K-engines were not available in America though so I suppose that might be why that information is omitted from the end note. So if you happen to have any of these engines be extra careful with your timing belt service intervals and installation.
Excellent video which I found very helpful. Having the engine in a cradle does make the job seem easier than it is, but for instructional purposes, the cradle allows the viewer to see the procedures with clarity and without obstruction. The crankshaft pulley holder is a nifty tool, which I didn't have the benefit of. However, I took a grinder to a G clamp and shaped it to fit into one of the tool location points in the pulley - does the job pretty well. I found conflicting information about valve/piston clash on the net, but IPD were spot on, and my red-block 240 suffered no damage following the snapped cam belt. Thank you to IPD for such a professional and useful video.
In my experience they are good to change every other belt change. However you are correct that it is a relatively inexpensive part so changing it every time is definitely an option.
8:35 Easy with the torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt, the CORRECT TORQUE IS 44 FT/LB OR 60 N.M plus an additional 60 degrees or 1/6th of a turn according to the genuine volvo manual. And for the Camshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets the correct torque is 35 FT/LB & 37 FT/LB respectively.
I wanted to ask a question. I recently had to replace a timing belt tensioner. At the same time, I went ahead and replace the harmonic balancer. After installing the timing belt and the tensioner and the harmonic balancer. I started the engine without the alternator, air conditioner, and power steering belt. So I can make sure the timing belt and the harmonic balancer is installed right. Is the harmonic balancer suppose to wobble? Is this because the belts are not on it? Or is there a problem?
Thank you for the good video. I have a B230FK,with a ignition distributor behind the motor, so I think that the position of the middle gear is not important and in this case only for the drive of the oil-pump?
great vid, Ok , I went according to diagrams ... crank wobbles and I didn't know the single marks vs double mars ! aha! my engine runs , but heck not well ! thanks for the info !
I look at this video.And could not help and notice ,did you forget to replace the keyway on the crankshaft? It looks like it is not on,then you put on the crank pulley on ? I stand to be corrected? Thank you.
Even though the crank has a big slot for a keyway there isn't any. Instead there is just a tiny part on the inside of the gear that slides into the slot in the crank and a tiny part that sticks out on the front of the gear for the pulley. A normal mod on heavily modified engines (especially when using a 16v interference head) is to get an aftermarket gear that uses a proper keyway, I have on my 16v engine.
Hopefully someone is still on this site... Is there a reason you can use a self locking nut on the tensioner to let it keep tension all the time on the belt instead of locking it in one position
I just did a headgasket job on my 94 940 and followed these steps. The car ran beautiful for 50 miles then I parked it. This morning It started right up but 60-90 seconds later it died and now It will not start and isn't cranking properly It just makes a whirring noise consistent with how long I hold the key on start. I've checked my timing and all is lined up correctly. I don't think it's my starter because the engine is turning over it just doesnt sound like it should Usually the whole engine shakes and it will go, eh-eh-eh-eh. I hope someone can please help me thank you
@@George-ie1si turned out to be the roll pin from the cam gear. The belt was turning the gear but the gear wasn't doing anything. Purchased a solid pin through ipd and it drove like a dream after
@@anthony4863 It's a bit frustrating when you need an answer and you don't get one. I have a GL360 and have owned it for 8 years my aunt bought it new and gave it to me when she turned 90 the car is low km and in mint cond. I'm changing the timing belt soon.
Naprawdę silnik B230 ma konstrukcję bezkolizyjną? Przecież jest to silnik prawie identyczny z silnikiem B200, w którym musiałem wymieniać pogięte zawory, gdy pękł pasek rozrządu. Silnik ten miałem w Volvo 340. Do filmu chyba wkradła się "drobna" nieścisłość?
Put a new seal in with your fingers?! Are you joking? I'm not King Kong. By the way, mark on the intermediate shaft means nothing here if this was 740 /940 model.
James Ebola It still acts as a balance shaft even if not connected to a distributor. While not critical to line up that mark it is best to do so and take little effort.
If you have a early b230 engine with the distributor on the side of the block i matters big time as it drives the dizzie ,as some car might have earlier engines fitted for various reasons as they do fit , but if the dizzie is on the back of the head no big problem