@@SHdrummerguy08 thats y you use the new oil to lube it first. If you prefill the filter you almost always get it on the gasket anyways. If you dont know, now you do. You are welcome
I think my favorite thing about these narrations is they don’t feel like I am being talked at. It feels like I’m hanging out with a homie who is teaching clueless me the basics ✌️
Zach is an extremely effective and charismatic teacher. I was just commenting about this same thing on another video yesterday. He knows how to convey some pretty complex information without sounding superior or condescending which is surprisingly hard for a lot of people.
Totally, only we’d usually be talking WAY faster and there’d be a ‘special’ drawer in the toolbox that holds a substance that generates a plethora of ideas… some good, some bad, but zero that actually happen
This guy produces some really useful and entertaining content. I love how he doesn't try to make himself look like some sort of perfect genius who never makes mistakes.
You might consider swapping out the PVC valve for one that is from a boosted vehicle. Ones from NA vehicles are usually pretty trash at preventing the boost from leaking back into your crank case. Even better would be to replace the fitting on the valve cover with an AN fitting and then replace the valve with a AN check valve and a metering orifice at the intake side. That way you NEVER leak boost into the crank case and you can set exactly the amount of air can pass while under vacum; you'll get better idle performance and won'y be chasing boost control issues.
It's literally because of Jobe that I bought my first ratchet set and I'm starting to learn how to work on my own car. I have a few aftermarket parts that I'm going to try installing for the first time ever
@@reedman0780 did pretty well! my first project was to replace the stock heat exchanger and setup my JB4 tune in my q60. Took me about 6 hours I think to swap out the heat exchanger and about 30 minutes to install the JB4 tune. I've been running it for a few months and I love it! It was a lot of fun for a first project
Killer bro! Welcome to the party! My advice: You never know what you don’t know. Never be afraid to ask questions. Some dudes can be dicks (esp on BMW forums where I lurk daily), but just shake it off and do you!
There are literally 3 zip ties holding my air filter cover on. It looks like it shouldn't work at all (looks loose until you feel it) but it's solid so it stays. Was supposed to be a temporary fix just to hold the cover on until I could fix the whole airbox
“Once an oil leak starts, does it ever really stop?” Yes. When you’re out of oil. Edit: 3 years later and just found out this comment has almost 4k likes. Weird.
As an Ohioan I tend to go all summer with my “low washer fluid” light on. Then when winter hits and salts on the road, you can’t do without it. That salt will absolutely blind you.
@@tommycarrizal1656 I live in arizona and I use my fluid a lot just due to dust buildup from parking for more than a day. Especially yesterday when it rained I had a ton of water spots on my windshield. Sad uncovered parking noises.
FYI, If your using push lock fittings, and those lines will see boost pressure, you may need to run a clamp. The only fittings you don't need to run a clamp on would be the official Russell Twist-Lok fittings. The difference is they have 3 barbs, instead of 2 barbs on the fitting. I figured this out the hard way on some oil lines a few months ago. It worked for a few weeks then popped off. Just wanted to give my 2 cents.
You guys should have explained how the catch can itself works, like what goes on inside them. The biggest thing you see with cheap catch cans (and even some expensive ones) is that they don't have baffling in them, so they are just empty space. Those don't do a whole lot. You want to have ones that are baffled so they can slow down the oil and fuel vapor that's going through them, and add surface area to help cool down the vapor so they condensate back into liquid. Empty catch cans don't work nearly as well as baffled ones. And typically you can simply put in some metal wool pads inside empty cans to help them work better. You can use steel wool, but I'd recommend purchasing aluminum or brass wool (which are fairly cheap) and those will work much better as they have a much higher thermal conductivity than steel wool does, including stainless steel. Higher thermal conductivity means it'll transfer heat much better and will cool things down faster. That's why radiators and intercoolers are made from aluminum instead of steel.
I know this is an older video, but honestly, it's helpful. Sometimes we just install stuff for little to no reason. Plus, routing options and things to consider is nice. I appreciate the video. Cheers!
You may not need it much in SoCal or other arid locales but most of the rest of the world makes regular use of windshield washers. For PCV oil management there's also the option of using a small oil vapor separator and plumbing its output into the oil pan. This removes oil from the PCV system and delivers it directly to the oil pan where it's removed at the next oil change which means there's no need to install and check/drain a catch can on a regular basis.
I feel weird that they used worm-drive clamps on a temperature-cycling application. Need to look into gates power grip clamps. They look sick and work best. Otherwise, get the spring clamps. They can be a pain to install, but they won't leak on you. That's why most OEMs use them.
@@IkaraPentiki Hose clamp elitism?? How can a worm clamp be that bad, i mean come on, it has one single job. I *have* had spring clamps leak because they don't provide enough clamping force to stop hose movement, and gates power grips are one time use. One single-use 2" power grip is literally 6$, when I can get a stainless steel worm clamp for like 2 bucks that can be reused countless times. I'll stick with a normal worm clamp, even on my temperature cycling engine lol. Edit: Just wanted to say that they are in southern california, so the temperature swings there are so minimal that they're pointless to even think about. Gates power grips are meant for big rigs that see frigid temperatures. Also, worm clamps can be installed without even removing the hose from its barb, particularly useful when replacing a leaky spring clamp on a coolant hose.... Edit2: Tbolt clamps are better than worm clamps, and I use them for highly important things like radiator hoses and such. Even so, they use the same concept as the worm, in general.
@@jonathonhebert7042 A lot to unpack here. A worm clamp is terrible because as the engine bay (and indeed the fitting) temp goes up, the hose expands. However, worm clamps do not. If a spring clamp is leaking because of not enough tension, it can always be easily replaced with a worm clamp as a stop-gap, though either the hose is likely hard (meaning it's not clamping the fitting, but the hardened hose) or the clamp was insufficient in the first place, or incorrectly installed (and thus damaged). Gates power grips are one time use, and a little shopping, depending on size, can get them pretty cheap. However, they also have no footprint on the connection (or basically none) preventing cuts, snags, or other mechanical obstruction that even spring clamps cause to some degree. They are also going to provide a seal even in some cases where the hose end has failed due to hardeneing as they seal up and around the fitting. Regardless of where they live, temperature in the engine bay swings from air temp at full cool (even in southern california, this is maybe 105 at the most, right? maybe 110?) to over perhaps 240, or higher, depending on the engine's thermostat, cooling fan switch, evaporator temp switch, and the heat being flushed into the engine bay by the exposed exhaust components. Do a rip down a drag strip with and then see what the air temp in the engine bay is. Or pull a lap at the track and check it at the pit. Gates power grips are not just for big rigs with huge temp swings. Motorcycle manufacturers have a tendency to use crap parts, and my Suzuki v-strom was replete with worm-drive clamps from the factory. When i flushed the coolant system and replaced the worn hoses, i replaced all the clamps with power grips. I didn't have any trouble finding the small sizes i needed in order to accomplish this, and they have been flawless in the 3 years since. T-bolt clamps _are_ better than worm drives, in large part due to their smooth surface and lack of un-even extrusion and generally concentric contact pattern so long as the right size is used. Sprung T-bolt clamps would rate just above power-grips in my mind, as having the ease of installation of worm-drive clamps, and the automatic tensioning of spring clamps. However. T-bolt clamps of both stripes are nearly as, if not in some cases more expensive (depending on size and supplier) than power-grip clamps. They do get a point for re-usability though. There are similar pros and cons to using compression fittings, which are infinitely re-usable but have obvious cost concerns (as the fittings have to be replaced and the hoses have to be matched perfectly). But... yes, hose clamp elitism if you want to call it that, though i'd say that it's not elitism to suggest that "the way it's always been done around here" might not be the best way to do it.
Honestly Donut Media makes the best ads. I make sure I watch them all the way through cause bro, the quality, humour, and all the quirks ad to the fun of the video imo.
Converting it to a meth kit is a great idea. I've done it a couple times. See my suggestion about converting an old reciever dryer to a homemade catch can setup above... Theres almost always a way to repurpose something unnecessary into something useful if you're into fab work. I love that kind of creative stuff. Back in the day when you wanted custom parts for a lot of applications you built your own, before the days of countless tuners/ vendors and the interwebz.😎
@@ChrisPBacon9 they've got a new built-for-miatas aluminum one that's quite a bit bigger and has a sump in the bottom where the pump mounts so it doesn't dry-starve the pump
Those Radium units are pretty nice quality. If you're setup with a tig machine, a great way to build one is out of an old reciever dryer. If you don't run an a/c anymore, you can even use the stock location that it resides in, for most instances. Grab yourself a few fittings, some hose, and clamps and you're in business. I've built a few of these with old reciever dryer canisters. You can find them for free in most cases and they come in many different sizes. Just a tip I've used in my years turning wrenches/ fabbing up stuff on a budget. You can throw some paint on one and make it look 'store bought' if you're concerned about the look of it even. I prefer the wrinkle black paint that VHT sells. 😎
All u got the dip stick model, i found a dormqn blk 1 off the rack, its decent, i used to make these from scratch, monster catch can, u know. Here is a pro tip, get course steelwhool and put it in the can to keep the oil crom sloching around, you can still empty and use exactly the same ways, ur wel come.
I see so many things on this car that would not be possible if they lived up in the Northeast. I regularly go through gallons of windshield washer fluid a year, and absolutely need center vents for heat & A/C, etc. That said, the Miata is coming along nicely. I'm glad they put off Turboing it for a good long while and focused on other upgrades, especially after what happened during High/Low.
I have oil leaks but the real problem is i don’t have the time to fix it. I need to change my oil pan gasket and i’m not going to pay a show to do something that i can do myself.
@@cablenowadays6586 I hear ya there. My truck leaks around the oil pan but I got to get it running right. 1998 f150 4.6l engine shudder under load and EGR flow is too high. Been a pain in my ass for for awhile now
I've got the same cans - 1. use blue threadlock on those allen mounting bolts otherwise they'll rattle off! 2. be prepared for the dipsticks to break inside the can, I've had it happen like 4 times
Thank you thank you thank you I've been forgetting to pour mine out for weeks now but I forget when the engine is cold and only remember when it's to hot to touch. I've never let it get that bad and got really close to a completely full can. Haha keep up the great work guys. Love you
Did he also explain the reason for the dual catch can set up? Basically, one catch can is connected to the low pressure side when you're not going hard in the paint, and the other is connected to the high pressure side when you are. Usually when people do a single setup, they attach it to the high pressure side, but honestly most of us are not WOT 24/7 so dual setup is super beneficial.
@Lassi Kinnunen 81 capillary action will continue to pull oil past the gasket, not as aggressively as excessive crankcase pressure, but it will leak until things get resealed.
@@daniellawson5127 I was going to ask this, since all this oil has been forced past the valve cover gasket and everything else, do they not need replacing and resealing? I'd appreciate any answer, I'm still learning about cars!
@@ethansheppard9664 yes, they’ll need replacing. O-rings, if not torn, might be reusable as well as seals, again if not damaged. But from the video shots, pressure was, well, extreme. Gaskets on the other hand, most have a paper construction, and will forever leak. Anyway, a thorough inspection and cleaning is in order and while there, I wouldn’t take any chances and replace everything that leaked.
YAAAAAY. Robert at Road Race Engineering told me the other day that oil catch cans are the first thing you should do (followed by an upgraded oil cooler) to any car with boost. Glad got it!
"Once an oil leak starts, does it ever really stop?" Oh, it stops alright. Just not in the way you want it to. Oil won't leak if there's no oil TO leak...
I don't know how many people caught the clever edit with the music playing and when Jeremiah Tapped the metal while drilling so it synched with the tempo of the music... Very clever!
Oh, if you want to restore windshield washer function, various companies make *bag*-style washer reservoirs you can basically put in anywhere you can find the space. :)
I'd like to think Jobe said "it's still Wednesday my dudes" in this video because for the past month of money pit episodes I've been saying it in the comments 🥺
Doubling the power, pretty sure you'll need to tap the valve cover with more ventilation ports since it was probably never intended to handle the pressure from a turbo application. I suppose you'll know after a few hard runs, but wouldn't hurt to be a little overkill.
You absolutely do not need to do that, ever. Boost works both ways, higher crank case pressure but also a better vacuum as long as your PCV system is installed properly.
GOD LOVE! I did this to protect my 96 302 from carbon deposits dropping on to #8 cyl failure. Also Churning Oil produces Gasoline...The EGR system can probably tied in to a tractor debris filter!!
We've learned a lot since this video was posted, like the fact that catch cans dont reduce carbon buildup in gdi engines. They catch contaminated water (condensation) that would be burned off in a functioning pcv syatem anyways.
Living in Michigan, the windshield washer fluid is a must have. You got a semi trucks throw up some nice muddy slush in the winter on your windshield, you're really going to want the fluid to wash it off lol
I was hoping they would go over the differences in using a vented catch can and a non vented. I'm trying to decide myself but I've heard it can pull in unregistered air and cause strange issues
Zach: "You need a fully functioning PCV system if you're gonna turbo a car, keep that in mind" My brain: I designed this rhyme to explain in due time...
