Something to consider before your next LARP -> wear your gear all day, as you would be equipped around the house (or out for a walk/etc). It is a really good way to get a feel for how well your gear fits, what works and doesn't work.
You can use a food safe epoxy resin to seal the mugs. I know a vendor that does this for their drinking horns at my local medieval faire. They advertise they are for drinking coffee and dishwasher safe.
I came here to say this. My epoxy-lined horns from Longship Luxury Goods (now defunct I think, or else drastically changed under new ownership since the original artist/owner's passing) are decades old and still going strong. Of course they don't go in the dishwasher, so I can't speak to that issue.
@@carinhuber2570 Never put anything made of horn in the dishwasher, no matter what you seal it with. It will eventually cause it to swell from the moist heat and crack open. Food grade epoxy is the best choice to make it stand up to coffee, tee, and mulled wine. BTW Revolutionary reenactors buy a special brick tea that is grated and then brewed. It was the majority of the tea that was thrown in the Boston Harbor. Since it was sealed in kegs the Rebels were able to salvage it from the bay and still use it. Smoke and Fire used to sell it.
Can’t wait for the 5 part episode of him learning to cooper, so he can make a 2 liter cask. From making the metal rings, to shaping the staves on a woodhorse. And additionally, making a little chest to horde leather supplies.
Bless you, such a rarity with crafty channels to see followups! Were I to be uncharitable, I'd suggest it's because _some_ channels take shortcuts in builds and don't make actually functional pieces... perish the thought!
I was the guy that came up and asked(pointing to the assassin cloak) "hey did you learn to make that from a certain RU-vid channel?" And kit is like "no... but I made it on a RU-vid channel" my reaction was !!!!!
Following along with your quiver was my second leather project I ever made. I shoot my bow off my horse and accounted for it bouncing around a lot. I added the second strap that you were talking about. It makes a world of difference. It keeps the arrows right where you need them to be. Also would recommend swapping the buckle to the other strap so the slack is hanging down it will look neater
Something you all mentioned at the end here, I think would be a GREAT episode - "leveling up our old projects!". Honestly, that would be very cool/useful.
tip with waxed canvas, if its feeling pretty stiff in places just throw it in the dryer and keep an eye on it. The wax will soften and spread more evenly and penetrate further into the fabric as well
for your armor, if you pull the thick leather of the chest in farther for comfort of movement, you can use a milled leather or chrome tan to fill the space between your arm and the thicker leather
For the belts. If you need the thicker, stiffer leather for hanging things but still want to tie it. Measure out what you need for the belt part then sew on a thinner leather for the tie. That way you get the best of both worlds.
For your light weight waxed cloak, try a cotton sheet. As to your belt problem, use latigo straps. Latigo is used in cinches to hold saddles and are tied.
When I'm out in the woods I drink my coffee from a kuksa. I made it from a birch burl after the tree fell into my neighbour's garden and I helped him cut it up. After reading many instructions I treated it with linseed oil, but later I heard that many manufacturers cook them in saltwater to seal the wood. The first few drinks may taste a bit salty but it seems Finnish people don't have a problem with salt. Have you ever tried salmiakki? You shouldn't fill hot or acidic beverages in a horn. No matter how it's sealed. The keratin gets softened and can crack. Best thing is to use earthenware or a wooden mug made out of one piece. They're best made from burls because that bulk of wood doesn't have straight grains that crack easily.
the quiver is beautiful. you can keep the quiver but change the connection to a 3 strap that connects on your chest. The 3 straps keep it exactly where it needs to stay even when running or reaching back for an arrow.
Floating cloak: Insert a length of thick heavy cord rope and stitch it inside the bottom edge of the cloak. It will always hang heavy even in wind (running around).
Also for your hood! Take a 2 inch piece of plastic canvas and sew it into the front hem of the hood edge, it gives you enough stability to hold it up out of your face without the "Assassin's creed" effect
mug for hot fluids? blacksmith one out of metal. those are very usefull cuz they dont break and you can put them directly on the fire to cook or clean water, to make tea/coffe or actually cook food (canned stuff if needed) with style. scout approved. little side usage: you can transport very fragile stuff in it like raw eggs. just put em in some cloth and stuff it in the mug... if something hits or falls on your stuff you can be sure that the stuff inside the mug is fine, espechially if you add one of these small hatches that closes the opening like a typical german styled stein. also prevents stuff from falling into your drink and keeps a little bit of the heat inside
This is such a great thing to do. Looking back on your work and honestly evaluating it is so valuable. I work with Scouts Canada and we have a mantra of Plan, Do, Review and we consider it an essential part of doing any kind of adventure.
A suggestion for your hot drink container. Take a coffee mug, your favorite, hopefully plastic and make a leather shell for it. That way you have your favorite mug just disguised.
2:42 you can also use baking soda to remove leather dye stains on unwanted spots, your self or say a carpet. I've used tooth paste that has the stuff in it (yes the arm and hammer tooth paste) and that works fine enough.
Back quivers work better/stay in one place when you have a second strap that goes from the cross body strap to the bottom of the quiver on the other side of your body. But side quivers attached to the belt are more convenient to use than even a well positioned back quiver.
I HIGHLY recommend just having a good ol fashion clay cup for your warm drinks. You can't store liquid in it because its porous, but even just fired earthenware clay is good enough for a coffee or hot mead with minimal condensation Traveling with it is awkward, I'll admit, but I bet you could make a little travel box similar to your alchemist kit (heh), that could act as the light version of the travel kitchenette. Just enough to store you pans, utensils, cups, a grill, and maybe some fire making equipment (or a collapsible fireplace blow poker 👀).
To fix the quiver I would suggest adding a belt around the waistline so it acts as a stabilizer. I noticed when you reached baco it shifted back a little more than you did, that would also stop it from shifting forward when you are running and tossing your arrows on the ground. Also a little added flavor a leather pauldren attached to the cross chest strap that you have would be cool but not needed. If it was a d&d common item I'd say it adds a +1 to your ac when equipped. I know you like to have multiple functions for things and since it already sets on the shoulder, why not combine 2 items that set there? It might also aid in the stabilizing. Just a thought from my own playing pretend as a kid (haven't been to a real larp besides Vampire the Masquerade).
With the Assassin Cloak, would adding a strap from the back of the neck to the top of the hood at the maximum depth you'd wear it? Something that would , when you pull the hood up, stop the hood from extending too far over your head. You could even try a weight at the front of the hood so you could flick the hood over your head and it'd always fall perfectly.
I mentioned this on Kramer's video where you talked about the quiver issues, but there are a couple of things you can do if you want to keep it a back quiver. The first one is to make the strap wider where it joins the quiver and goes over the shoulder, then have it taper down in size. It's apparently a big issue when the strap is the same width. Looking at it the Tandy quiver pattern seems to have the design I mentioned if my explanation is unclear and you need a more visual example cause I'm not sure if I explained it well. The second is having another strap go from your quiver under your arm and reconnect to the strap in the front, making it more of a quiver harness. A third thing (which I didn't know until after talking to my dad who has experience in using a back quiver) is less a change in the quiver and more a change in how you draw an arrow from it. Apparently, bracing the bottom of the quiver with your elbow as you move to draw with your other arm will help in keeping it from running away from you as well. Also on cloaks: Using 100% wool would probably be the best idea, however, cheaper wools can be made from recycled wool which has the strands broken down and stripped of its natural lanolin which makes it itchy and removes its water resistance. Not sure if this would help with the itch factor (but a thin lining fabric would help with that), but using lanolin wax would help with restoring the waterproofing. It would also help with adding back the waterproofing which non-recycled wool can lose over time.
Your experience with gloves happens to me with the buckskin color cowhide gloves I use, after the first couple times I stop having yellow hands but it’s not too bad.
Great video! I'd love to see a quiver v2 with better ergonomics. As an archer, I struggle with this too. Check out the ancient greek quiver too, it's a cylinder with a cap - could be fun to engineer.
If you're not averse to mixing some "modern technique/material" into your gear you could try fashioning some kind of metal liner into the drinking horn. Say, like stuffing a soda or Red Bull can into it and trimming away the excess. Then all you need is something around the brim to 1) keep your beverage from sleeping between the layers and 2) keep you from cutting your lip on the metal edge. You could, perhaps, leave some excess can sticking out and carefully fold it to the outside, making sure to double the sharp edge back on itself so that it's safely tucked away. That may even be enough to seal fluids out of the layers so long as you don't submerge it. Maybe use a can slightly larger than you need it to be and kinda "pleat" it to fit inside (like what you did when constructing the burner for the alchemist coffee box), that way you have extra material to work with when folding it over.
just a thought about the quiver(which man do i love and want to make) have you thought about adjusting the strap and your armor so that the belt feeds through the armor so it's shifting around less and more form fitted to your body and armor and possibly making the arrows more accessible?
I wear ruana cloaks all the time instead of coats in order to wear them and keep them in place, use a Pennumular brooch ( also called blanket pins) that will anchor it into the shape you need.
Great overview. Really informative on what worked and what needs work lol. Have you ever tried making mugs from clay and fired them in a kiln? Then you could glaze your creations and have the perfect hot mulled cider mug:) also they're pretty durable if made the right thickness . Maybe a new skill for the tree!!
For your quiver I recommend not making it a side belt and just adding another strap on your quiver so one strap goes under your arm pit and the other goes on your shoulder just look up how Legolas wears his quiver and that will give you a tiny picture
I would be careful with making the ruana too much longer. Mine is about to mid-calf but I keep tripping on it as it slides one way or the other and it can be dangerous. However, mine is a much much lighter fabric than yours and flows really well. But it IS easier to shorten it if it's too long (then again, you can always add a strip of fabric to lengthen the one you have too to test it.)
Algorythm loves when you watch videos in 0,25 speed whole. Gonna leave tab muted for few spins now. For a hot-safe cup simply go make kuksa. Would love your spin on topic. There are tons of videos on it but in all there are different Clever advices, would probably be nice for the others if someone did research and compile them together, in just watch time it'd probably be a day of video to nitpick advices from. Cheers and have a great one.
Why don't you make a wooden Kuksa to drink your hot liquids out of? They are traditional Sami drinking vessels and were made to be used out in the woods and on the trail. It would go great with all of your characters also
mugs for hot liquids are better done in ceramic traditionally hot liquids were served in simple ceramic mugs or metallic goblets the ceramic was more piratical and widely used. think ceramic stein.
Use elasticized shoelaces for your breastplate. No one will be able to tell at a distance and it will fit snugly every time. (I have a tactical vest, and that's what I use to lace it up.)
@@Taurusus Or even if you don't have a forge, there's a few metals you can choose that are soft enough to work cold. I believe copper, or thin mild steel may work.
Just wanted to write something similar. The historic brooches for that purpose are called fibular and if you find the right shop there are extremly cool designs, far better than the simple horse shoe like viking stuff.
I love how honest you are Concerning hot beverages, they always use pottery on German middle age (Christmas) fairs, which are only glazed on the inside They are pretty and useful!
Or the mugs/cups were cut from wood. Preferably a hardwood. ( Remember: oak needs to age for three years in the open to leech out the tannins!) Also: Drinking horns. As long as the horn is kept whole and hence needs no artificial sealing of any kind.
The lighter felted wool material can be used as a cloak material without a liner. To make it have the weight and drape so it’s not a bother, take a tip from historic cosplay: Add coins or a chain inside the bottom hem (depending on the material, it might be needed in the seam allowances, as well). Great video! I really enjoy seeing how the things you’ve made actually held up in a LARP environment and hearing all the beginner lessons you learned. So helpful!
18:00 Belts: First, its not the thickness (weight) of the leather that is the problem. One issue is the belt width to ring diameter ratio that is really important to make these belts work right. You can (and should, if hanging stuff off it, or using it for retention around armor) use thick leather. 3.5 mm thick is common. The ring diameter should be around 1.5 times or greater the strap width. Secondly, vegetaned leather is specifically stiff, and is "moldable". As it absorbs sweat or rain, and with applied pressure, it will deform (even long after being finished). So, you should avoid the "belt straps" that you can often buy from leather shops, or cutting your own from vegetan. Its great for modern clasp belts with a keeper, where the tongue is fed through belt loops. Any leather crafter on youtube will tell you "use vegtan for belts. It doesn't stretch." But.. urr.. all things stretch. And when you are sweating gallons and your belt is sweat wet, its going to lock that shape in when it dries out. Vegtan is not good for ring belts (IMO). The best you can do with a vegetan belt is keep it well oiled and just hand work it a LOT back and forth, making tight rolls inside and outside. keep the outside surface waxed or oiled. EVENTUALLY it will be in that perfect space between pliable and not yet brittle ;) Instead, what you want is Latigo leather, or chrome tanned (From most "floppy" [supple] to least: chrome, latigo, vegetan). You actually WANT that springiness/stretchiness in a ring belt. It helps to "lock" the belt around the ring and is much more pliable around the waist. Unfortunately it can be difficult to find latigo or chrome tanned leather in shops that isn't already dyed (often grotesquely ;) When you find it in a "natural" color you'll know because it is already lightly dyed. Even sans dye, its a darker color than vegetan. Latigo has the characteristics of being much more pliable than vegetan yet super durable as well as naturally water resistant. It does not deform even when wet (at least not in a way that locks in when it dries again). It "self heals" cuts, scrapes, and stress deformation very well. Super "floppy" which is how you want the tongue of the belt to hang below the ring. The downside is that you cant stamp it or carve it (at all. It wont "take" the stamp). Thus why its almost always pre-dyed in the shops. Which is fine, as the dye is much more uniform direct from the tanner. The best you can do is paint it with leather paints, or add embellishments like studs, conches, belt tips, etc. Avoid the chrome tanned leather with a super sheen (almost rubbery) top surface. it will be too stiff. Look for an unglazed top surface, flat, not glossy. its a natural skin feel.
As with the rest of your builds I really like hearing the good and the bad you make it real, not everything come out perfect every time, for the cups I have read that food safe epoxy will work for hot liquids. Keep up the great work.
Interesting notes on Hoods; the Hoods on medevil cloaks were sometimes a separate article of clothing rather then an all in one; perhaps you need to design a hood to wear with the cloak separately, the advantage being that it is an independent article of clothing that won't respond or be pulled upon by the rest of the fabric. That way you can protect your head without necessarily adding extra complications to an all in one build and can overlap the articles to offer modular protection depending on the weather. Fantastic video and ultra insightful to cosplaying; I've been slowly putting together a Star Wars esk cosplay that I've been taking bits and pieces toward that! Thank you!
One of the most beautiful hoods I have seen was in an episode of Brother Cadfael Mysteries that a woman archer wore. It was woolen and dyed petal pink. In fact the whole series is a master class of costuming with the pieces showing genuine use and wear. You can find it on BBC. Issac Jacobi plays a monk herbalist who uses reason to solve Medieval murders.
Metal cup, just straight up, get a metal cup you can mod to make look period kinda, but a metal cup to that you can boil water in even gets rid of the need for a kettle (you might still need one for like other stuff I guess?) But basically, get a simple stainless steel cup and if you want it to be "fancy" make a sturdy leather "koozy" you can slip it into, this might even insulate it a bit and protect your hands from hot liquids (slightly, I mean, don't go nuts running around with a hot mug of coffee. Or do? I don't know your life.)
Check out Tandy Leather education tab. there are several HUNDRED ideas there. I found a pattern for a coffee mug and one for a can koozie. They could be adapted to sleeve a metal soup can for the water-tight liner. Modern cans typically have a polymer lining that might be easy to clean, and if not, open another can of beans...
Project ideas. So, I recently made a leather dice tray for D&D. I used 7-8 oz veg tan, wet it and wet formed it into a metal pie plate then trimmed, sanded the top edge, carved the D&D logo and stained it. Turned out really nice. Next is a leather map of the region in our campaign and a set of bone dice…. Love your show and love when I get that little notification about your new vids
Hey! As a suggestion, you could wear your arrows as a bundle weaved in a sash around your hip. You would twist the bundle of arrows in to the sash you already wearing. Another option could be a wooden quiver which is used in Koshiya Kumiyumi. I hope this is of any use to you and thank you for all the ideas you are providing. It is also a delight to watch you two conversing. Love from Germany.
@@Sylvaantye ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-asDy55cRVds.html I made a short video about what I was talking about. I hope it is useful!
Some thoughts regarding hot beverages: the best way to seal something like a drinking horn is going to probably be a food-grade epoxy specifically designed for withstanding boiling temps, or else a silicone or silicone-lined vessel (which can be any shape you like, but again check for food-grade and boiling temp resistance before going ahead with it). Silicone really is magical stuff if you select the correct grade and apply it correctly. In the Medieval word, hot drinks would be served in ceramic containers: ceramics will not break [easily] from thermal shock, and will not [usually] leach their contents into the beverage in question. Borosilicate glass will withstand the thermal shock, but isn't super "period". Unfortunately there aren't a lot of options here. Authenticity says "ceramics are your best bet". Also, while metals like copper won't shatter when exposed to sudden heat, their thermal conductivity make them unsuitable for drinking out of. Just sayin'.
Wow, an honest to goodness REAL honest review! I love what you do here and have saved some of your design ideas for "future reference". And now you got down and dirty with TRUTH! You really DO have super powers! Thanks for the reviews. I'm all in with a carved wooden mug for hot /cold beverages. Gotta be a dense wood. Many options to dress it up. And yes, always seal your leather - and wool rocks for comfort, breathability, water fastness, style, and comfort. Wool felt rocks! Thanks again. God bless. Take care. And stay vigilant. Oh, and have fun!
Regarding the leather armor, they are usually intended to be worn over a gambeson which can also be worn as an 'outer' layer. A gambeson would be an exciting project to cover on the channel. Also for any armscyes, you can wet form the edges to roll slightly out to keep those edges from causing bruising or rubbing.
Hey Kit, I found your channel while preparing for my larp-comeback (I larped quite a lot in my teens and early twens but had a 7 year break and now plan on having a mighty return!). Your Videos help me quite a lot and I love this review-video! Would love to see those reviews to your field testing sometimes in the future coz its super helpful :) My Question: Youre not talking bout your bow in this one! Have you used one of your selfmade bows at the larp? I'm planning on crafting a pvc-bow like you did and would like to get some field-review to it :) greetings from germany!
I took my kids to a medieval fair this summer and having seen your video on the ruana cloak i decided in the last minute to make my own (the kids shouldn't have all the fun should they?). I made it from an old blue bedsheet nearly kept it the same size aswell, just shortend it slightly. I ended up making the hole for the head to large, but it worked out. I used a broach to keep the cloak from unravelling.
I'll second the epoxy resin for sealing - there are several that are completely inert such as the Apoxy Clay which you could even make an entire mug out of and be fine. Some of the liquid epoxy are definitely not recommended for food though.
The first suggestion that comes to mind... dont use rings on your belts. They didnt exist in period, and the leather slowly slips over the day loosening your belt. especially if you hang things off it. Use actual buckles, and then fold the belt over the buckle like you do with the ring belt. Much more sturdy, and less prone to have your belt fall off in the middle of a fight.
There are several excellent living history suppliers that have a variety of belt buckles and tips based on archeological finds. They are very reasonably priced too. Just a few (I'm not affiliated) are Black Raven Armory, Vehi Mercatus, Viking Leathercrafts, and my favorite, Raymond's Quiet Press.
Is that his wife, sister, or daughter? Haha They both have that look where they could be like 26-45 and 19-35.. haha My brother in law can’t grow facial hair and looks 18 but my niece just started college so you’d NEVER guess that she’s his daughter. I’m just curious because they get along well and remind me of me and my sister.. she got me into video games and a few other hobbies and I wish we did more stuff together.
New to the channel and found it cuz I’m into similar eclectic craftinesses. So awesome! I reckon I would try to make a glue from pine sap for your horn, but maybe you would run into the same problems.
With the belts, i would say go back and skive down the end that goes through the ring so its thinner and more flexible. With the dye leaking/bleeding, i would recommend sealing the pieces with a water proof resist of some sort. Theres so many to pick from i couldnt even begin to suggest the right option. Try making or using a cloak pin for the ruana cloak to help hold them in place better. You could always try to remake a few of these projects for a side by side comparison of how you started vs where youre at now. Most of all i want to see that viking bed build as well as a camp weekend only using the stuff youve made.
you should do something using recycled leather. I have a tonne of leather from an old couch, and need something to do with it cos it behaves so differently from new leather. also,have you thought about getting sponsered by threadup ? you could get some more clothes and make them larp appropriate. also audible,since you're always telling us to listen to a good book whilst doing time-consuming projects.
There is nothing wrong with having help when putting on armour. Other than a mail hauberk, I can't think of a single suit of armour that I didn't require help to put on. From my most basic orcish leather breastplate to my most complex samurai suit, I've always required help to armour up. It's the same thing for any historical armor.
The nutsack is actually a medieval design with double closure and all. I created one similar to that one and i use it as a sporran. It is good as a daily use bag, you just need to acclimate yourself to the inner being the primary closure instead of the outer.
Most real medieval archers had there quivers on there belt. The only people that would actually have arrows on there back would be the guys who are carrying the army's arrow stash.
Awesome video. Right up my ally! For those belts, I think they are salvageable. I had a similar experience when I was playing Robin Hood. The weight (thickness) of the leather is fighting against the width of the belt. They look like they are 2 inches plus wide right now, make them less wide, the ratio of thickness to width should even out and they should be usable. You guys should totally make cloak pins on the channel, it would help those ruana cloaks from unwrapping themselves. Wood mugs and kuksas when seasoned properly can hold hot liquid without needing to seal them at all. So a wood cup is now my preferred adventuring cup.
This doesn’t relate to the video at all, but I think you should try cheese making. It’s a lot of fun and some cheese like goat cheese don’t really need to age for very long at all.
Regarding your Nutsack, a wooden bead or leather slider/keeper should be enough to keep the inner closed while also being quick enough to operate that it won't disrupt you too much with frequent use. Also, that sure is a very fine quiver, and you've discovered the fantasy fallacy of back-mounted weapons! Indeed, the trope of having your sword or arrows on your back is terribly impractical; true soldiers likely only have them there while travelling, they go on the hip when you're ready to rock and roll - well, strictly speaking, archers just jammed them in the ground or a bucket kinda situation depending on if they had time to set up, they weren't running around mid-melee preferentially. But where's the adventure in that!
Regarding back quivers specifically, I have used a 1970's expedition quiver (can hold 60 arrows in 3 "separate" sections) extensively, and it works well. The main reason why it performs much better than my newer "costume" quivers is that it has a separate chest strap, basically making it a 3 point securement system, as opposed to the standard 2 point system most quivers have these days. It's so effective that I added a strap to emulate this on my latest quiver, and it holds the quiver in place on my back right where I need it. And for reference, since I did the testing on this, my back quiver allows me to fire faster than an archer of similar skill level that is using a ground quiver. At last testing, he fired 20 arrows in the same amount of time that I fired 22, with similar scoring results. What I'd really like to see Skill Tree do is a backpack quiver with a pair of long knife/short sword sheaths built in, in the style idea of Legolas' equipment from the Lord of the Rings movies. I wonder how many pouches and or storage space could be added.
@@markvaughan7530 I agree that a back quiver is dependent on strapping properly to make it successful. Also, a sword can be worn on the back. See Shadiversity. You can use a regular sword sheath if you have a witcher style sword (i.e. Arming sword blade length with long sword length hilt.) or you can use Shad's style of special sheath for long swords and great swords.
@@jackhartwig440 I've seen Shad's back scabbard, and for what it does, it's cool. I was suggesting a backpack type quiver with 2 short sword/fighting knife sheaths, much like the one Legolas uses in LOTR. It can be seen quite readily when he removes it to enter Meduseld in Edoras.
So you guys stumbled on a fundamental engineering philosophy, elegance in simplicity. Granted a lot of your work is very aesthetically pleasing. However to maximize functional ability and durability in any system (jacket, backpack, folding vanity), reducing complexity will accomplish those goals. The best process is no process. The best part is no part. Often engineers and designers will go with "easier" route to build something. Building highly functionable, durable and reliable systems with minimal parts and processes takes a tremendous amount of skill and forethought. For example, I was recently watching one of your videos (I've watched MANY). The one I was interested in was the coffee alchemist box. Overall pretty interesting design. However one thing I would have done differently is to replace the hinges with much stronger hinges. I would've added a thin metal band to go the length of the box, then replace the beefier hinges then go through the wood with through bolts and a lock nut. I know it sounds like I'm going kind of against what I was saying with simplicity, however, your maximizing your structural integrity of the entire system. Then I would've used simple locking hinges for the inside. That would serve two purposes. One keep the box opening all the way. Two Keep the box from closing. So just my little tip is think about simplifying the process while also maintaining or increasing the strength of the system. Over all, love your content great ideas!
One other thing, with old mugs, ones made out of unglazed earthenware, often people just accepted that there was gonna be some leakage lol Not the ideal answer but, that's just how it was dealt with. Ofc there are many ways to seal pottery and mugs but that's a whole another process.
