In this Luminar 4, Aurora HDR tutorial, I demonstrate how, I believe, HDR is a valid tool for photographers today -- that is when doing exposure blending. In the video I mentioned that you can get a bundle of Luminar 4 with Aurora HDR for $99 -- a savings of $89. Get that deal here: bit.ly/2VlyEbI Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/anthonymorganti/ Gear used to take the images: Nikon D800e - Updated Model Nikon D850: amzn.to/2K498SZ Nikon 14-24mm F2.8 Lens: amzn.to/2ZXR55C Sony 120GB XQD Card: amzn.to/2HlfR8Y Sony XQD/SD Card Reader: amzn.to/2NBuSHB Spider Pro Hand Strap: amzn.to/30k170u View my recommended gear list: www.amazon.com/shop/anthonymorganti I use this software to record my screen and make parts of my screen enlarge and zoom out so you can see it: Screenflow: telestream.pxf.io/DMrW2 Unsure of how to price your photography? Check the 2019 Guide to Pricing Your Photography: amzn.to/2S1CiU7 I am an affiliate for all of the companies listed. Please read my Code of Ethics Statement: onlinephotographytraining.com/code-of-ethics/ Thank you!
So Tony, I usually agree with you but in the case of the third image, the EV +2 image that you didn't use, there is a reason to use it. Aurora lightened the benches which would have been perfect in the third image (exposed to the right). Whenever shadow areas are lightened, noise is revealed, right? In your example it's not a big deal but your viewers need to understand the importance of ETTR and why.
another way to go is to start the process in Aurora HDR and, after blending the images, go to “edit in luminar 4”, i.e. using luminar as a plugin in Aurora. I don’t remember any problem when doing it this way.
I just recently changed from using Canon DPP plus GIMP to Lightroom/Photoshop . I wavered between Adobe and Skylum for a long time. So glad I went the way I did.
I still think dedicated exposure bending software yields unrealistic results. Some are better than other but in my opinion nothing beats using PS and blending the scenes manually using luminosity masks.
I never got the hang of layers. Trying again now. Purely from anecdotal evidence it seems to me that either one gets LR or one gets PS. From the few videos I've seen of people combining images manually, the results look far more impressive. It guess it comes from being in control. However, it also depends upon the composition.
Great video Anthony! Could you maybe advise on how to open a CR3 extention RAW file in Aurora HDR? Since I purchased Canon EOS R, I cannot open the RAW files in Aurora, only in Luminar 4. Thanks very much in advance!
Excellent video, Anthony. Thanks. It's good to know how to "roundtrip" bracketed photos from Luminar to Aurora and back, but what a convoluted process. Come on, Skylum! Make this more seamless.
Pleased to see you are going to do more Luminar. I like Lightroom and use it a lot. It's may starting point most of the time but it is limited. By going into Luminar 4 you can use many of the tools to enhance your image that are not available in Lightroom.
It would be interesting to see the correctly exposed image completely done in Luminar 4. Add an adjustment layer and then adjust exposure to equal the stained glass exposure to the balance of the image and then use paint to only adjust each stain glass window desired to be changed so that only those are affected and with the opacity adjust to taste or adjust the mask to taste if each are to be different (only one was in question in this demo). Another thought is that if one does any edits in Aurora, the file could be done as save as and then that file is available in the future and then also do an export (tiff or .jpg) and proceed in L4 although I agree everything could be done in L4. Others have mentioned the issues with L3 and I have had them with both it and L 2018 both of which I own. I am awaiting Skylum to fix things also to work not only better in Windows 10 but to also have all the functionality that is offered at the same price for the MAC platform. Another possibility it to run the HDR through Affinity Photo and then if needed move to L4 for the rest of the editing. All in all, from everything tutorial you (AM) and others have done, the whole process should be able to be completed solely within the L4 program. Thanks for all your tutorials as I enjoy viewing all that every one of the creators present in YT.
I don't shoot as much HDR with my 5D IV as I have with previous cameras, although I will if I think I might need it. I always shoot HDR (5 images bracket) with my DJI drone as the dynamic range is not great and brackets are only 0.6 stops each. It's one reason I can't dump LR, with its inbuilt HDR, Pano etc it's just seemless. Combine this with PS tools for Pano to fix issues using Wide Angle Adaptive filter and other tools that are not found anywhere else.
Hi Anthony, enjoy your videos very much, thanks for providing them. I noticed that under file column you have send to option. That does not appear under file on my system. I know you are using Mac and I am using Windows. Maybe that is the reason for the difference. Now under edit when I click on Aurora HDR it takes me to the Skylum web page. not the program. This is not the first time I have watched your videos and have found different options on your Mac, different to my PC.
Thanks Anthony, I have never used Aurora, but have had it for a long time, It will certainly be useful, used in conjunction with Luminar4. I am doing more & more editing in Luminar 4 now, Thanks again!
Thank the Lord that the really grungy stuff has gone! But the technique used properly is worthwhile as you show here. As a photographer who specialises in church images, particularly stained glass, it's essential!
For me HDR is an excellent way to transform a mundane scene into an eye catching work of art. If your objective is to represent a scene exactly as it was , well that's fine. If your objective is to enhance the scene into something more spectacular that's fine also. Neither approach deserves criticism - either is perfectly suitable for what the phototgrapher intended for the photo.
Same manufacturer not properly integrating their own software offerings is a real shame! Why bundelling this software pieces when they don’t work together at all?
Looking at my version of Luminar 4 there isn't an option available in the menu for "Open in". I checked and the software says I have the latest version. Can you offer any suggestions before I do a technical support request. Thank you.
Aurora HDR 2020 Crack is a photographic program developed using the powerful HDR algorithm and consisting of all the necessary editing and processing tools to create a natural look for images
Thank you . The title of this is “is HDR Dead” However it is a commercial for Luminar 4 and Aurora and not a consideration of the pros and cons of extending dynamic range .HDR means Higher Dynamic Range achieved by taking multiple identical images with differing exposures. When a camera has the ability to capture a burst of images with differing exposures it achieves that by adjusting the shutter speed. The images can then be blended together to extend the dynamic range as compared to the dynamic range of a single shot . This is a particularly useful alternativeold car sparty lea to using graduated filters . A more fitting title would have been something like “blending images using Luminar 4 and Aurora 2019 . To my eye this was unashamedly a commercial .
Who cares who doesn`t like HDR? It`s all down to personal preference, if you like HDR slight or real heavy, and you are getting what you want out of your photos and editing, then that`s your thing so just enjoy it, never bow down to what others say you should or should not be doing. your art is your expression.
Unbelievable how Luminar & Aurora aren't that compatible. What a waste of money. When you point this out as well as the baking in of adjustments it sounds more like a warning not to buy the software. I had Luminar 3 but had non-stop problems that I just gave up on it. Refused to go with 4. I decided to stick with ON1 PhotoRaw and have never looked back.
What what do you mena the three images was hand helded there is not any difference in the images how the fuck the 3 shouts are exactly the same lined up if it is handheld
In extreme dynamic ranges like in this example it's a useful tool, it doesn't look that fake, and if you were to drastically under expose to bring out the windows and in editing bring up the shadows you might run into severe noise It's a tool, it has its uses
