awesome pictures, do you mind to add some details next to your picutures next time? Like Shutter speed, and so on. so then i can also learn some stuffs.. greetings from Germany :D
My first roll of night shots came back with a really strong yellow hue with all my light sources, possibly because I was using the in camera meter so they were a little overexposed but I'm gonna try again!
To directly answer the title question, color photography at light yield a variety of colors from neon, but literal accuracy is usually way off no matter what film you use. That's just part of the difference between film color balance point and the lighting itself, which is usually the subject. Now, consider that you can buy 4 rolls of Ultramax 400 for the price of one roll of Cinestill 800, and the answer is in your face.
Yooo this was cool! I love those shots with the lighttrails infront of the Bobo sign! I bought two rolls of ultramax about a month ago and still haven't tried one out (lol), but I'm so looking forward to it :D
Great video, and love the Canon P. I agree with the other commenters that it would be great to have just a little more tech detail (you mention the app, but are you also compensating for reciprocity failure?) to help us learn from you. Don't you to change up the vibe too much, but a little aside would be great. Keep it up!
Hanks for watching and leaving a comment! I plan on adding more technical detail to my future videos. When I can that is. I don’t always write everything down haha
damn bro! i really enjoyed this! just got my first film camera and my first roll of ultramax 400! gonna go out and try it tonight! also subbed! keep up these videos they are great :)
I wish you had tried that further away shot of the snow cone spot. That combined with the close up would’ve been dope. Overall enjoyed the photos, subbing for more !
Again a really good episode.👌 Would not have thought that Ultramax is so good for night photography. 2:33 is my favorite I think. Nice & clean and good composition.
Awesome video man, truly inspiring. Some amazing night shots, were any of these edited in post? Regardless super sick photos, loved the video, peace from Texas. ✌️
@@ReimannPembroke cool. This session was full of amazing photos one of the best night sessions I've seen so far! Planning to go out and shot a cool sign soon but I need to get one of those shutter cord trigger things, I already have a tripod but I want the least amount of shake possible.
Hey man, love your videos! I want to try and go out with some ultramax400 too at night, and i was wondering what kind of reciprocity failure compensation you used when calculating exposure times. Thanks alot!
Thanks for watching! I think for exposures longer than one sec, I was multiplying what the meter was saying by 1.5. So if the meter said 4 sec I would multiply that by 1.5 for an exposure time of 6 sec
I do quite a bit of night photography here on my channel so there’s a lot of resources about how I meter, gear I use, exposure times for particular photos, etc! Hopefully some of my videos can give you some helpful info and inspiration!
Pictures are stunning. I love the locations you use in Kansas/KC and would love to see more of them (day or night!). This part of the USA interests me greatly.
Great video! Im just getting started with film and was wondering what kind of settings you were using for night scenes like this? Ie: for neon light signs, were you choosing an aperture and then letting the camera meter for you to pick a shutter speed? Or do you have a desired shutter speed in mind (I presume, for getting effects like light trails) and then set the aperture based on that?
Great question! Most of the time I am selecting an aperture that I want and then metering to find the right shutter speed. But in cases where I want something like a light trail, I usually decide what shutter speed I want first.
Love the photos! Especially the Cage fun center photo. Where did you get reciprocity failure charts for Ultramax? I was thinking in shooting it at night too
Thank you! There isn't really much reciprocity info for Ultramax. A good rule of thumb for long exposures that seems to work well with lots of films is take your meter reading and multiply the exposure time it says by a factor of 1.3
@@ReimannPembroke Thank you for the heads up, will definitely test it! Lots of useful information in your videos and the photos are killer. Keep it up!
Yes! I love night photography, but I can’t to get the hang of it at times. Also, I wanted to get into film photography and I’m looking into every film types for every situation.
cool. I used Ultramax 400 just a week ago at box speed for some night shots metered and came out well. Now seeing how the 400 goes with reciprocity failure. Unfortunately, this is going to be a 'suck it and see' as Kodak data did not have long exposure stops listed fro ultramax 400. So, trying at 1stop over 2seconds...
Yeah Kodak unfortunately doesn't provide much information about reciprocity failure for Ultramax.. For a lot of the shots in this video, I was metering for middle grey at box speed, doing exactly what the meter said, and then doing a second exposure and doubling the exposure time. The latter came out much better!
@@ReimannPembroke nice. Yeh so far done 2exp @1stop. 1 averaged with zone 3+ to Middle grey which was calculated at 8mins 24! - that one was quite dark into night sky with storm clouds, and little lighting from neighbours garage. Then another where i found this street light with a car and nothing else. Varicrossed filter the street light @f5.6 on a 28mm which I calc'd @2mins 25sec. I have 21-23 exp to go, so going to 1stop, 1/2 stop, 1/4stop etc etc etc just to see how ultramax handles super long exp, and its bleed. Anyhow, nice technique BTW doing the meterx2 @Zone 5! Ultra gets a bad rap, but if your patient and know its limits, can do cool things with it.
Really enjoyed this! Haven't shot night photography yet but will definitely try Ultramax 400 as an accessible way to experiment - and just look at those shots you got! Beautiful.
It depends on the film I’m using but I’m usually shooting between f/5.6 and f/11. For shooting with this film I was doing anywhere from 2 sec to 10 sec exposure times
Canon P! What a wonderful camera that is. I got mine a couple of years ago, and it's barely left my hands. Is that a Jupiter lens? My go-to lenses are an Industar 50mm and the Canon f.2 35mm. The Industar is great, but the Canon is out of this world. Insanely sharp. Some say the equal of a Leica lens when stopped down.
Right?! Such a good camera. I was using an Industar 26m 50mm in this video. I also have a Leica Elmar 90mm f/4 that I just posted a video about and a Jupiter 12 35mm f/2.8 that I just got and am testing out now.
@@ReimannPembroke Nice. Those old Soviet ltm lenses are great if you can get a good example of one. It's just a shame that quality control was so hit-and-miss. I read online that that best way to identify a good example is if it looks heavily used. The Industar 22 I use has lots of scuffs on the barrel which shows that it was used a lot, and I haven't had any problems with it at all. Not bad for £15. That 90mm Elmar looks great, and I have considered getting one, but the frame lines for long lenses on the P are so small I don't know if I would be able to compose as easily.
@@snapsnappist4529 I have really enjoyed the shots I've gotten out of the Elmar so far! definitely make sure to get one in good shape though. And yeah I've gotten pretty lucky with all of the Russian lenses I've bought so far
Thanks! And yeah! I usually meter for the darker parts of the scene and then take a meter reading. I’ll then usually add about half of the meter reading to the total. So if the meter says 4 seconds all add 2 seconds for a total of 6
Great video! How did you compensate for reciprocity failure? I am planning to go shoot ultramax at night but im only familiar with portra’s reciprocity failure.
I kind of guessed bc there isn’t much info about reciprocity with Ultramax. If the meter told me to shoot for a second or longer, I took the value x 1.5 and used that
This is something I've been interested in trying for while now but I chickened out because I was scared of the reciprocity failure stuff, so thanks for doing this. Having said that, how did you handle the metering and reciprocity failure issues? Any tips or links that would help with this?
Yeah reciprocity failure is intimidating at first and there isn’t really any information for Ultramax. I just metered for shadows/middle gray and then added a factor of .5 to the exposure if it was longer than like 6 seconds I think. So if the meter said 6 seconds, I would add three more seconds on top of that
Really inspiring! Thanks! But I missed the information concerning the way you metered the light... how did you choose the shutter time? Thanks for your feed back.
I used a light meter app on my phone called lightmate! It seems to work pretty well! I will try to add more info on shutter speeds/aperture in future videos! I’ll also do a video on this app at some point soon!
What's up bro, first of all thank you for all of this. I'm doing some deep research for a specific project I'm working on rn, and you gave me a lot of key info that i needed in order to pull a few things off at night with my Minolta X-700... My question that I have is, how did you compensate for Depth of Field? For example, if your meter was telling you that you needed to be at f2.8 or f1.7, but you wanted to shoot between f5.8 - f11 like you said you did; what did you do on your shutter speed dial if you were at a shutter speed of 1/500 on your dial (since it's closest to 400 ISO), but you still wanted to capture a lot of detail in the architecture you were shooting? The Minolta X-700 shutter speed dial only goes up to 1/1000 as I'm sure you already know (just like your camera that you used in this), so there's only 1 stop above 1/500. Which is why I was gonna shoot on Gold 200 in order to give myself more room for my shutter speed, but I see that UltraMax 400 is so sexy at night now, so I want to pull off the look you captured in this video, and have that same depth and lighting all at once. I hope that all makes sense.
Thanks for watching!! So at night I’m shooting long exposures with a cable release. Most from this shoot were between 5 and 10 sec exposures. I use a light meter app on my phone, put in the speed of film I’m using, the aperture I want to shoot at, and it gives me an exposure time. I only worry about keeping the shutter speed near the iso of my film when I want to shoot Sunny 16
@@ReimannPembroke Ok ok makes sense. There aren’t a lot of solid tips online about night photography, and that seems to be because you can bend a lot of the rules in order to pull off different kinds of shots at night. It’s sort of experimental, which is why so many people seem to be intimidated by it... But I’m gonna apply what you’ve said in the comments to my overall style and see what I formulate with all of the bits and pieces of knowledge that I’ve acquired from really great film photographers like yourself. Keep doin you bro, and thank you again.
@@ReimannPembroke I’ll definitely be shooting a roll at night around here soon. I have some awesome neon signs I’ve been wanting to capture for motels. Nice ! I currently am using the canon serenar 50mm. Looking into some other options just to have a change of pace
@@ReimannPembroke the Jupiter 12 is one I’ve been looking at as well. I think I may just save up and finally buy a voigtlander LTM lens. Kinda want the Skopar 35 f2.5
Nice pics, and interesting video! I still don't like Ultramax 400 though. Colors always seem off, too warm, and I don't like the grain. I prefer Kodak Gold 200. I guess I should do a night time comparison!
Tell me why this goes harder than portra lol love the shot at 4:32 & 4:46 , so crispy loved the scenery of the skate & bowling area, got some rad retro places around you man !
Yeah unfortunately Kodak doesn’t have data for reciprocity failure of Ultramax. I was doing a couple different exposures for a lot of these photos. if the exposure was over one second, I would add a factor of .5 to the exposure time. So if the meter said 2 sec, I would expose 3 seconds. If it said 10 sec I would expose 15 sec. etc. that combined with metering for middle grey or shadows seemed to be enough
@@ReimannPembroke hi! when you say shadows what do you mean? any dark area? or very dark is not good? I feel dificult to find "shadows" at night bc all are very dark...
Yep! I meter using the Lightmate app! It seems to work pretty well! I was also doing more than one exposure for a lot of the shots and the ones with more light tended to look better
@@petezalpa2548 I ended up bracketing quite a few of these photos. I would typically either meter for the shadows or middle gray and then I would add exposure time to what the meter reading was to account for reciprocity failure
Great question! For most night shooting you will need a tripod unless you are using a very high speed film or have some very bright light source. Most of the time when hand holding cameras with shutter speeds slower than 1/60 of a second will cause some motion blur
I use the Lightmate app on my phone and meter for shadows and typically add a factor of 1.3 to whatever exposure time the meter gives me assuming it’s over a second