thanks for the awesome videos. I bought my 01 540i/6 with 90K miles right after college as a weekend project with my father. At 120K, its running like a champ and continues to amaze me with each tutorial we attempt.
Just tested my DISA valve and replaced the O-ring based on your videos. Chipping out the old O-ring was a huge pain, but otherwise the job was easy. Thanks!
3:08 NOTE: Unless the frame around the flap is totally busted and falling into pieces that pin cannot fall out into the intake due to the design depth of the receiving hole, which would hold the pin into the frame and flap even if it comes loose as you see here. However, be sure to retrieve the pin from inside the intake if it happens to fall out upon removing the DISA valve.
Definitely will be checking my DISA valve, very scared after seeing that loose pin. I'm having some low idle knocking sometimes and I have a "running to lean" error code. I remember reading something on the forums about the DISA valve possibly being the culprit. Thanks for the informative video!
Hello still having issues with my e46, i have changed spark plugs,purge valve. new air filters. haven't changed the bank 2 02 sensor yet. sparks plugs helped a little, i thought they had oil but it just was the loctite. going to search for vacuum leaks. other than that i am out of ideas!
have 2004 x3 don't give up, you can make a smoker for about 2 bucks from a pickle jar and old soldering iron( check youtube). take off air cleaner and MAF(easy) put a rubber glove over intake opening, cut tip off glove finger to shove smoker tube thru and now you have BMW bong to smoke engine. IF you have a scanner and lean codes, its almost always a vaccum leak. when you find them you can verify it with some propane but this requires patience since it has to get to O2 sensors then back to ECU to start seeing short term fuel trim go negative from the extra propane. I found the propane trick takes about a minute to work. don't forget to clean your MAF, takes 2 seconds.
Nathan - just noticing the different sizes of DISA & flaps in this video. The one you replaced original with has a shorter flap (check video images here @ 3:50 and 4:20). Guessing the original DISA is off of a 3.0 M54 engine and you replaced with one for smaller engine? Or am I going blind - LOL...
a couple of questions for ya. first, if the car idles perfectly smoothly, is that a pretty good sign that there is nothing wrong with the disa valve? also, if there is a problem with disa, wouldn't there be a code?
Mine idled smooth. Its just that I had a check engine light, and I wasn't sure if that was going to cause me to not pass smog (CA). So I just went ahead and replaced it, and the light turned off.
Hello Nathan, my disa valve seems to be in good working condition, but the pin came off rather easily. Is there a way to keep it from coming out? Thanks. 2002 bmw 530i
I have a 2002 bmw 330i and my car just robbed me of power and when i start the car and leave it at normal idle it shakes and sounds like a vac leak and the exhaust sputters not sure what it could be
ugh, just pulled mine off and the flap had jammed it, when I finally got it off, the pin was missing. I suppose I have to assume its inside already. Any suggestions?
Question: my 2003 530i runs rough when I start it up and when it's cold; does it mean my disa valve could be the culprit? I don't get any error code and the engine runs smooth once it warms up. The rough idle at start up does not always happen either. Thanks,
Thank you for taking the time and responding to my question. Vanos was changed 60k ago, made a slight difference after that, but still have the little rough idle intermittently. As you said could be due to so many reasons. I just thought a faulty Disa Valve may have some impact
I rebuilt my Disa valve on my e39. However during removal of the Disa valve, I noticed that the Disa unit smells of gas and wanted to know if that is normal
+Nathan's DIY Garage thanks. Also, I bought the parts off eBay that you spoke of. However I don't know if I regret it or not because I just read bad reviews about it after I repaired it using the $30 eBay kit. I read that the clip becomes loose and the flap will begin to spin freely after driving a few thousand miles. Have you experienced any such thing after using these refurbishing kits?
Even pushing it out of the way, it hits the plastic wall barrier that the brake booster cable runs through. I found a forum that explained you have to wiggle and twist and curse to remove that barrier. That's what I did and finally got it off. The orange o-ring is flat as can be so I ordered a replacement. I like your video's dude. Teach'n me a lot big time. I swear I can hear a vacuum leak causing the lean bank 1 and 2 errors. Once I had that barrier out of the way, I was able to put my iphone in the back in video record mode to get a better look at things. I've seen video's showing how the hoses just crack over time. I don't know what the deal is with BMW and rubber. Everything rubber on my X3 I'm having to replace. Front windshield trim, VC Gasket, CCV asssembly / kit. I remember reading somewhere that said BMW uses rubber products that are made from recycled material in order to get a Green friendly status or some tax break. Nonetheless.... in the back of the engine, instead of rotting hoses I found two rubber vacuum caps. What's up with that? Also, I noticed that on the intake side other video's show a hose connected from vc side, but when I look at mine, it just has a plug where others have a hose. Any idea what that's about? I am in California.... all I can think is it has something to do with that.
I finally got it out after removing the plastic barrier that separates the brake booster from the engine bay. Of course that couldn't be removed without first removing the cabin filter assembly beforehand. Without the barrier separator removed I could get a decent look at the vacuum lines between the engine and the cabin firewall. Once I had enough room to squeeze my iPhone and hand back there, I was able to film a video so I could get a much better look. Instead of finding vacuum lines like I've seen in multiple video's ....I had rubber vacuum caps that had dried to the point that cracks in the cap were causing the vacuum leak I'd been chasing for hours. Went to pepboys and bought vacuum caps that fit. And all was good again. SES lean codes, once cleared, have yet to return. Keep the video's coming... some of us need all the help we can get.
That end pin is actually held captive against the intake housing when in place so it can't come out in service. It can fall out when removing DISA valve and not be noticed and if left in there - then that is when trouble could start with it trying to get out via the exhaust pipe... Also the function of the DISA vale is to shorten and lengthen the intake runner to provide optimum low down torque (long runners) and optimum top end power (short runners)...
i have never seen any improvement with fuel consumption on m54. disa/ccv/idle c.v./vacuum/maf... i have fuel trims 0 but bitch still eats like before. power - yas, consumption - at least i have never noticed. car does 0-100 time like factory. in logic if you have power improovement you should have consumption too but how much is that ? 200 grams per 100km ?
Very helpful video. I did have a question a bit unrelated. Do you do oil changes without draining oil from drain plug and suck out of dipstick instead? Never heard of service places doing this until I brought my BMW Z4 in for oil change.
Good info. I like his point about servicing. The DISA valve isn't a normally serviced item anyway. As it's only the work of a few minutes to check, you wonder why it wouldn't be. Owner of 2005 BMW X5 3.0, 212k kms showing codes P0172 and P0175.
I had a p0174 code due to a leaking disa valve, the diaphragm had a small tear and it would leak, my check engine light would only come on when i would get on the freeway at 75 or 80 mph and it would go out by itself when driving slower on the streets, I was able to fix the diaphragm covering it with a condom, I hope this info helps somebody.
Hi Sir, Time permitting, would appreciate your input on Transmission Failsafe Program, my E39, is clear of fault codes, works flawless, but goes into failsafe once it hit highway speeds. These is no comprehensive analysis on this issue on YT.
Thanks to this video I inspected my DISA and sure enough that pin was about to fall out!! Thank you Nathan for saving my car from total annihilation!!! I just bought the repair kit!
Those things are so fragile, I got into a little fender bender with my e90 and the disa valve broke off completely and got sucked up into the motor and some pieces made it into the valves and bent a handful of them.. there was plastic pieces everywhere in the cylinders lol but yeah I got it rebuilt and its good now lol
exact same thing has happened to my e90 n52 2.5l.. going to garage tomorrow as i have not got the time or patience to dismantle my engine.. your comment has made me anxious lmao
Is this the Reason my BMW is Hissing when the car is on? and Should i just Save my money and buy a newer one... I just bought the car from a Dealership and only had it for months...
Search on E-Bay: Silicone O-Ring-Dash 140, 10 Pk These O-Rings fit perfectly on the DISA and with a light smear of petroleum jelly, it pulled right into the intake. $2.97 for 10 O-Rings.
DISA valve O-ring alternate...Fel-Pro part# 35489 and Mahle part# C31302...Thermostat housing o-rings fit perfectly snug with a little bit of grease added.
I have the M52TU engine and I am going to put the M54 intake manifold on it for more power. Are the DISA valves interchangeable? Or will I need an M54 DISA valve too? (most manifolds aren't sold complete with the DISA valve).
great vid as usual. was in crawling stop and go traffic for about 2 hrs today when the engine suddenly shut down. was able to start it again and it ran normally in continued 5mph stop and go traffic. could this be a sign that the disa is going?
ok. replaced both cam sensors about 25k miles ago, July 2016. So I'm gonna check the MAF and crank sensor. Im getting the feeling that it may even be related to the periodic unstable idling. sometimes when i come to a stop, lets say, after pulling into a parking lot, or sometimes after switching off the ac at idle, the idle become unstable and surges for 10 to 15 seconds before normalizing.
Trust me when I tell you this. When that bullshit of a valve goes bad. It literally takes the whole engine performance with it. Mine just been bad and since I’m not gonna waste my time getting a new one or one of those goofy rebuild kits which is bound to fail eventually again. I’m deleting that shit and swapping a M50 intake manifold onto my head. The main symptoms that normally happen are low RPM hesitations, rough idling at some times, rattling or a loud tick, sluggish acceleration and I tell you this. That sluggish acceleration is no joke, you know what it feels like to be driving normally and all of a sudden you feel you have to floor it just to get moving then you just feel your moving no where but you see the RPM climbing to 4,000 RPM while still in 2nd gear (Auto tranny) I’m ripping that garbage out of my car.
thanks making sure before I change it. on in a update the sputtering was the purge valve I did change that. the sputtering stopped. thanks on another note do you have DIY on valve gasket replacement
Just removed my disa valve on M54. Hm the diaphragm hodls pressure good but the flap has fair amount of play. Today I've experienced a power loss after a stall. Unplugged and plugged back the connector on disa and power is restored. I'm considering to buy a repair kit online that has a aluminum flap and long screw and get rid of the problems with disa for eternity. And yes ther was none check engine light at all
I had a ruff idle a car seemed to be sorta weak in the mid rpm range I pull out the icv and it was a little dirty but working fine. However the DISA flap was completely missing and the pin was sitting just inside the hole. Never had any lights or codes. I sawed off the rest of the flapper frame and plugged the vacuum hole, thew the pin away and remove the actuator arm from the diaphragm. Put it back together and it runs great but still has the ruff idle. And thew a po174. My question is what could be the problem?
It is imposoble to lose pin inside intake without breakage of plastic, because that pin is very close to intake wall. Overtime that pin sticks on the wall of intake by the burning fuel or maybe burning oil deposits, thats why when you removing disa, pin is getting out. That plastic is very hard to brake, just now i changed the disa and try to break old one with hammer but it is not a hard plastic and does not breaks easy. Note that the e46 engines works at high temperatures approx from 95 to 105 degree, bmw makes this maybe for redusing emissions, but this high temperatures makes detonations. Strange thing is that Electrical Fan is programed to cool the engine when temp is up to 90 degree. But water pump pulley diameter is to big, rotation speed not enaugh to move hot coolant faster and pressure quickly raises, causes breakage of radiator plastics, this happens at low speeds with 1st gear and when we stop continually at neutral 700-800 rpm is not enaugh to move water pump faster. Even if termostat is stuck open and fan running without stoping, it helps little bit but not fully. High temps makes softer plastics to become brittle and with high pressure disa valve can break or melt easy especialy when internal combastion chamber valves are stucked and does not closes fully.
There was red silicone on the old one. I hear mine making noises thanks again Amazon had it for 60 bucks. It'll be here tomorrow must be a very common thing
Mine is exactly the same, just moves around freely with no pressure at all.. is there any other way to test the DIAPHRAGM without the easy thumb method? Cheers
Nathan thank you for the video, one question: my shop told me to change the 3/2 fuel way valve since my 740il 98 , should I buy a new one or just the regulator?
Nathan your videos have saved me thousands ...i was able to rebuild my whole M54 engine becouse of you and videos you made.. I have one question regarding disa. Someone says that if you put key to position num 2 , plug your disa to connector and apply vacuum at the small hole by the flap and the flap should retract/close. I applied this on my e39 and e53 and this doesnt happen ? I also confirmed with other E39 and e53 owners and they're all saying that on position 2 our vehicles e39 and e53 do not get voltage for some reason but only e46 they do and they can test it this way what's your thought of that? Are out vehicles not getting power there at all or is this normal?
Yes it could do if the o-ring is bad as you would then have a vacuum leak. The flap being broken though wouldn''t cause poor fuel trims I don't believe
4 года назад
@@maxbradley9534 if the flap is suck closed you lose top end power, if stuck open you lose bottom end torque. But it wont throw CEL.
Loos like you have a vacuum leak, needs a o2 sensor, cylinder 3-6 the rear sensor, possibly need to do the spark plugs or at least check the tubes for oil from the valve cover, and the gas tank purge valve located behind the power steering tank.
Crazy, mine was same way, broken same way,whats up with the lil piece of fiberglass (im guessing)broken on side of flapper? I cant find it....but i did get rest of parts out..., well i pulled it out just like tou did and every thing was there except the lil piece off the corner of flapper.....what to do now????
Throttle body on a 328i dose it have to be programmed becuse mine is making the eml ligjt come on and the butterfly will not open what other year bmw parts can be used
Hey Nathan, I replaced the pin on my disa and al great now. But tell me... when you put your finger over the open port is it bad that the flap don't stay complete shut? I'm not getting enough vacuum for it to stay shut and it opens about a quarter of a inch!
It's normal for the flap to partially return when you hold your finger over the hole, then it should stay in that position for a reasonable amount of time or the bellow has a hole in it and you would want to replace it. germanautosolutions.com/ has the best available, whether that be new, or if yours holds vacuum you could use one of their upgrade kits.