Hi Minji! Loved the video, I always enjoy how far in depth you go on the construction notes especially. Fiber nerd (extended) note, the reason linen is so much more expensive than cotton is actually more because of how time intensive it is to process prior to spinning+weaving as compared to cotton! Cotton has two processes in quick succession - harvesting the fibers, then running through a gin to remove plant matter, seeds etc. Then it's ready to spin (and both of these processes are mechanised & super fast) Whereas linen is cut, dried, retted (basically kept in water until the outer shell is a little rotted), dried, then run through a hackle to break the outer shell off, then combed to get to bare fiber, and only then can it be spun! Obviously these extra steps add a whole lot of time and thus money, and cutting/harvesting in the field is pretty much the only fully mechanised step, adding more manpower and thus money to the whole process. Climate does also play a part, as the two fibers do have very different ranges for growing, but cotton is actually more limited I believe, as it takes nutritious soil, lots of water and lots of sun to grow. Linen needs damp and sun, but in most climates it doesn't need added water to grow, just air humidity and some rain. To illustrate, linen is pretty traditional in middling parts of Europe (esp Britain), whereas cotton didn't take off until the US was colonised and slave labor could do the picking of cotton, prior to the current mechanised setup. If you compare linen to pretty much any fiber it is way stronger! This is because of the long fiber length making for stronger threads to weave with, as well as a property specific to linen - it is stronger when wet than dry. This means it's great with old laundry methods, which were pretty much 'beat the dirt out', and it also lasts well with sweat etc on it everyday. Oh I've just looked back on this and it's really long 😅 Thanks for the video, and I look forward to future cosplays, historically-inspireds, brand reviews, and baby bat too, of course 💓
Thank you for that in depth explanation! I think some of the info about where it’s grown I just pulled from their website, so you definitely are more informed than I am!
It’s so great I definitely wish more brands would do it. It made me feel so much better going like “off size” if that makes sense? Like if I went off the bust measurement alone I would have bought a size or two larger and this made me feel ok buying the size I did and I really think it ended up being the right choice!
This is the best sustainable slow fashion review I’ve seen. I loved that you calculated the actual cost of the dress to show that “yes this price is reasonable.”
I love that you break down the cost of what it takes to make a garment ethically. I'm starting a fashion business and honestly a simple skirt will be about $250 -- because that's what it takes to cover my labour, fabric, overhead, and make a profit that allows me to grow modestly. A lot of people balk at the number, but breaking it down helps.
Love this video, I learned a lot and I don't buy a lot of clothing for myself and prefer to spend money on quality vs quantity. Would like to see a video about sustainable clothing practices and what you have found in your research.
Yeeees I would loooooove a video on how fast fashion is killing the planet, environment and more. I would love to hear your thoughts on this cuz I think you have valuable information to add on this 😁
I love these videos. As a family of seven on one income, we can’t buy this kind of thing, but we are thrift store people and that’s something we can do right now. I also make what I can out of fabric I find at thrift stores. Erika
Same on the one income and kids! Wish I'd bought myself pretty linen dresses before kids 😂 I know id wear these for years and years! Second hand shops are great fun too!
It's a beautiful colour on you and is a very pretty dress. Cost per wear is also important to consider. A durable, easy to care for garment that can be dressed up or down depending on accesories, and in different seasons with layering, can be worn frequently and for many years. I have clothes that are 20+ years old that still look great (and thankfully still fit lol). Definitely worth it.
Add size inclusivity for larger sizes to the list of things to love about Son de Flor. The size chart already goes farther than most, but they also have an option to place an order for a custom size for a small additional fee (which seems reasonable considering they have to custom draft and make the garment).
Thank you for the nice review and great video :) Brands like Son de Flor and Of her own kind are wonderful except they aren't size inclusive. They stop at XXL. Son de Flor does offer custom sizes, but it's not the same. There are so very few brands that are both sustainable and size inclusive... I can't always afford this kind of garnment but the few times in my life I would have had the opportunity to do so, there wasn't much choice. It's getting better but there's a long way to go!
@@moth.faerie I think that you cover lots of topics around garments and ethics (fabric sourcing, packaging, labor practices, etc), and I think size inclusivity goes along nicely with that.
I don't tend to buy from brands like this,, or really many at all because I tend to tell myself that I can just make it myself for a similar cost. HOWEVER I love the sustainable aspects, the education on the fiber industry and the cute extras that these companies tend to include. This would be the exact type of company that I would want to work with, if I do. I also love the idea of going down random rabbit holes and would be really interested in learning more about what you learned when going down this particular rabbit hole. While I prefer watching the more historical or cosplay videos, these analysis of clothes is really interesting too. You offer up some interesting stuff that I don't know or think about.
wow i thought this would just be a try-on video but this was fantastic. I loved the note at the end about chemicals on fabrics. You're so knowledgeable, it's very admirable))
I do hope the fashion industry as a whole moved in this direction so I don't feel as restricted in my options when I do buy new garments. I really don't like the wide neckline look that 99% of these smaller sustainable brands do... it's a very narrow aesthetic, haha. But it makes a ton of sense because they know who their audience is. Sidenote: I'm fortunate in that I make enough to buy sustainably, and I do so most of the time, but I do think that changes in the fashion industry will have to come from regulations. (I find websites that track/grade brands to be pointless because a) they have no teeth, b) they only serve to guilt consumers who were already invested in the cause). Also, most people aren't paid enough to support the kind of change in consumer demand toward sustainable garments that would move a fashion giant. Last, but not least, thank you for the video! I love garment deconstruction/construction related content.
Other brands that are similar to Son de Flor that might be worth reviewing are Little Women Atelier, Of Her Own Kind (which I know you've worn but I don't think you've made a video about them), French Meadow Corsets, Revintaria, Voriagh, and Gaala. They're all very popular in the online cottagecore fashion-loving community.
I love the idea of them accepting the garment back to help with sustainability. Sounds like a really great brand! I’d love to know more about other sustainable brands! The color is so vibrant! It almost looks like a bright red or burnt orange in certain light! So lovely! The packaging is also so nice! It looks like a present! The extra swatch with the button would be so useful if you accidentally got a small tear or a button fell off! I love the idea of a little surprise in the pocket! I always get so excited when I find things in my own pockets that I forgot about!😅 I feel silly after the excitement wears off. I didn’t know that about the shadows facing the back of the garment!
A video about the harmful practices in fast fashion would be SUPER interesting! Especially with how Victorian/historical processes are frequently criticized, revealing how not much has actually changed would put modern fashion into perspective. I feel like companies get away with so much just by keeping quiet about it.
I love a video diving into the chemicals in fast fashion! That sounds really interesting. Loose threads like that always make me wonder if the maker is getting paid hourly or per garment. Other than that, it sounds like this company is doing better than most. I really like the idea of a company taking back their clothes to resell, but I think it should probably only be done locally. For me, the shipping would be from Lithuania to Connecticut, US, then back again, then off to wherever the next purchaser is and that just feels like a lot. If they ever open a shop state-side, I'd be much more likely to use that. Thank you for letting us know about this brand with your honest review and excellent garment and price breakdowns
ooh thats a good thought, that does point more towards a per garment pay rate. and that's true! the cost of shipping (like environmentally not monetarily) is also something that has a big impact on the carbon footprint of a garment
Thanks! I love wearing linen since I live in a desert and sometimes even cotton feels too hot. I will love to support a brand that is working to make sustainable and durable clothing that is also adorable.
I have 2 Son De Flor dresses and the only thing that I still haven't cracked the code on is my preference on washing them. I think I just need to buy a steamer because I really don't like how wrinkled they are right out of the wash and air dried. However that is my ONLY complaint about them, they're wonderful quality and make me feel like a cottagecore goddess!
Every time someone reviews Sondeflur I go visit their website. It’s a lot of money, but for a splurge it’s in the realm of possibility. Then I remember the only thing I can buy from them is like… a scarf. Because they only go up to size XXL for a 40 to 42 inch bust. You might consider adding the size range to your reviews. Clothing sizes are crazy, I can fit a large to 3xl depending on the brand. Thanks for the thorough review, love your videos!
I love this type of video. Your review was very balanced, fair and well thought out. I think the note you make about the cost of peace of mind is very interesting. It is certainly true for me that I feel better in my skin knowing I that I am not wearing something that is harmful to me, the planet, or to anyone else. No one else should pay the price for our need for new stuff, like so often is the case with fast fashion. I would love reviews of other slow fashion brands like Nour and the Merchant, and Revintaria.
That was super helpful, I love the look of Son de Flor dresses and I know that it's worth investing in quality items, but the prices do make me pause. But having someone confirm the quality really helps. My only problem is that my size fluctuates a lot (I've been back and forth anything between a UK 12 - 18 the last few years) and I worry I'll buy something pricey then not be able to fit it within a few months!
This was a very informative video, thank you! I've wanted a Son de Flor dress for a while, but haven't been able to justify the cost, but you breaking it down like that absolutely makes me feel like it's worth it! Also, since you have such a detailed breakdown of the construction, I would love to see you "remake" a dress in this way!
Love the dress and the review! They seem to be a really cool brand! The sustainability, the inclusive sizing, the option to find out how the garment will fit you etc. I don't have the means to buy there, but maybe in the future or for a special birthday gift. Will keep an eye on their "reloved" section because that's absolutely brilliant and maybe something pops up there that I can afford. Would like to see more reviews of sustainable brands! I have had mixed experiences with them so far an would be cool to get to know more :)
I think this was a super fair review. I'm a huge Son de Flor fan and actually buying my first dress from them is what got me obsessed with linen which was the foundation for my interest in historical clothing and eventually learning to sew.
This was such an interesting video! I would love a more general deep dive into sustainable fashion, especially the aspect of sustainable and non toxic fabric I admittedly don't know much about. One aspect I think would be interesting to add is shipping. I find it really important to at least consider the environmental impact of ordering online - it's a problem I face pretty often as a European since a lot of brands I'm interested in are in the US and I don't want to do too much overseas shipping if I can avoid it. So I'm actually really glad to have found another European based business through this video 🤗
Recommending Indonesian brand Sukkha Citta! They grow their own cotton and dyes and everything is 100% traceable. I have some pieces from them and everything is so thoughtful and comfortable, but I have little knowledge in terms of construction so I'd love to know more.
I would love to see more of these videos! I wouldn't buy something like this because a) expensive for me and b) my brain just goes 'I could make this myself with nicer finishing'. But I like to see how manufacturers make their choices and it is always good to see you do the cost breakdown, it makes people more conscious of what is involved in making their clothes. Something to consider - if you're looking at a bigger brand like, idk, elizabeth suzann? that allows for returns, you could get an item or two and just take us through the construction and finishes?
Also, as someone unabashedly pro-gored swishy skirts - their choice to cut the skirt in panels makes sense because there is a wee bit more labour involved, but it makes for more efficient use of the fabric which I am totally in favour of. You can make more interesting skirts depending on how you shape the gores too!
I would also be down to hear more about the procurement/pre-production part of the clothing manufacturing process - maybe you have some sources or contacts from your time in fashion school who are familiar with the industry? Like if there are any sustainable textile mills, transparency of process, the difference between certifications and buzzwords like 'organic' or whatever. I know a bit about oeko-tex but I would like to hear more about the various kinds of oeko-tex certifications, and about alternative certifications like GOTS or what makes something 'fair trade'. As the sustainability push continues sooo many brands are greenwashing hard and it really pisses me off, but it's a complicated area for the average consumer to look into. I think it would be great if people with the means to spend on these things are equipped with that knowledge. Deadstock is also one of those things that is complicated and that I haven't made up my mind about - I know some mills purposely produce deadstock, but I also know genuine deadstock exists, but also how does the average person get hold of roll/bolt ends and such?? Eeeesh.
I have had some comical experiences with my shoulder height being too low, one time with the bust and waist in place the shoulder seams were at my ears 😂😂
AwesomeTacular analysis! I'm enjoying how thoroughly you explain construction and sustainability/ethical business practices in your videos. It's top tier work that had me HURRYING to hit the Subscribe button. I look forward to seeing more!! Thank you for being You! ❤️
The dress is stunning. Well done, you. Sustainable fashion is the only way forward. Yes please, a video on what gets added into fabric would be fantastic. Because what the heck is nickle doing as an additive, much less formaldehyde... Apparently, we learned nothing from regulating the tobacco industry... Le sigh. How very Victorian of us. Would adding shoulder pads address the fit of the bodice? It could save you from having to redo the sleeve cap? - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Thank you! I'm not actually sure why any of those things are added, so I'll have to look into it but I definitely agree, with having learned nothing from tobacco. I think people believe that bc it doesn't go directly inside your body it doesn't have as much affect but skin absorbs so much! Shoulder pads would probably help! I probably won't touch the shoulder seams anyways tho, it fits well enough and I have more fun projects than alterations haha
@@moth.faerie The dress does look beautiful as it is. And yes, there are other projects sending out their siren call. I'm learning how 1940's shoulder pads work, so it's top of mind for me. Skin is our largest organ and it absorbs by touch. Let's hope this continent is forced into adopting the EU guidelines (which means, I think, all hope is lost for the quilters... I can't see quilting puppy prints being a big seller in Europe for some reason).
Thank you sooo much for this review/introducing Son de Flor! I checked out their page and they have beautiful items, especially the Catherine jacket and all fuchsia items. I hope they do another collab with you or you will actually still benefit from the affiliate link. When they start offering Klarna as a payment option, I'll gladly buy something through their store, too! It's too bad they're not that size-inclusive yet...
These videos are interesting! I like learning more about these brands which are expensive but (ideally) more sustainable! Buying without being able to see can be a bit stressful and this helps. I will say Son de Flor isn't very size inclusive (just got all excited and checked) which is disappointing. All sizes of folks should be able to have sustainable long lasting clothes :) I know that companies make arguments about producibility and initial cost but... Also the way to put in size info was very weird, as it asks height/weight/age. I'd rather have been able to put in my actual measurements. And instead of informing me that my size was out of range (not much out of range but...) They just said the waist would be tight and not that it wouldn't fit. Which is frustrating. Bit of a rant, sorry! Thanks for a good video Minjee :)
Ah I'm sorry, I'll definitely make sure to mention the size range in future review videos! They do ask for your actual measurements on the second page of it, I'm not sure why they ask for height/weight/age? If it were a little more sophisticated a tool I would say bc those things definitely all do affect where people tend to carry more or less mass, but it seems to mostly depend on the direct measurements. For the sizes that are out of the range of what they expect to fit they put a little red 'x' over the clickable option in the tool.
I remember a couple of years ago there being a bit of a controversy because they were being 'called out' for not being inclusive in their model choices and them getting really defensive 'bc there are no black ppl in Lithuania'. Luckily they took the time to sit with it and I'm glad to see they embraced non-stereotypical models too besides including ppl with different skin colours now and also older women which I love.
Wonderful video as always - and I would LOVE to hear your thoughts on the health problems associated with fast fashion because its not something that I hear talked about often enough.
Great video. It's so good to learn what actually goes into the cost of making a garment. I appreciate how you go over the stitches and the making time. How about reviewing Linennaive - I feel it's simillar to Son De Flor just less ethical xD.
I love those videos. This was so informative and interesting, makes me want to sew that linen dress that is waiting for me (inspired by blue dress of Sophie from Howl's moving castle)
This is a really great review and I like your focus on sustainability and fair worker practices. I would really rather have less clothing of better quality.
Personally, I am very curious about how the lethal side of fast fashion and would definitely be intrigued by a video on that, if you still have the desire to make one.
I applaud their efforts and it's definitely preferable to buying the literal garbage on offer in stores and from other brands. The unfortunate reality is that you simply cannot buy your way into sustainability and the profit motive ultimately will kill us all.
You pointed out something that is worrying me - their standard fits are more for high than standard/short ppl (loose fit on the shoulders, which lower bust and waist part... I'm also having this problem with almost all clothes, so that is also holding me away from purchase).
You mentioned that companies have tried to sponsor with you but were unable to provide their sustainability info, I was wondering if you are able to share that list is companies?
Ah, it's sad that their pockets aren't big enough. You can't fit a phone there. I've been so tempted to buy it but yeah the lack of pocket real estate is a deal breaker.
Unfortunately, like most sustainable brands the sizes available top out at average. As in, if you have the average waist measurement for an American woman you would wear the largest size available.
On the one hand this video is the worst because now I really do gotta buy son de flor dresses but on the other hand it's nice to know they're actually worth it! The people getting son de flor sponsorships that I follow are usually not sewists so they're just like, "yeah it's a dope dress you should totally buy it," and then go back to whatever weird stuff it is that I'm watching people do that day. (also as an aside as a person with shoulders that were apparently built for someone a foot taller than me, I appreciate when people tell me there might be some extra shoulder room in a dress I can't try on in person so bless u for that too.)
ah haha I totally understand that feeling - it's like seeing something really beautiful but also really expensive and kind of hoping it won't be in your size 😅 There is definitely a lot of vertical room in the shoulders, I also have shoulders that are a bit wide for my height and it fits with plenty of room, so lots of horizontal shoulder space as well!