Thanks for the very professional feedback from Mandicreally,👍 we will try our best to improve our kits. For all SIBOOR V0.1 kits delivered since 11th, Nov 2022, the motherboards with Klipper+Fluidd pre-installed have all been installed with fuses, jumper caps, and drivers. The system, motor, temperature measurement, and endstop are all powered on and tested for normal operation. Even novices who do not understand software and hardware can easily use it, greatly reducing the difficulty of use.
@@Mr.Thermistor7228 We are also conducting new tests on silver printouts and hot bed wattage, hoping to improve them. However, it can only be released after multiple tests are completed. Thank you all users for your attention and any comments.
I ordered the same kit as shown in this video on 7 November. I haven't heard anything regarding it, and that is after several emails asking about it. The lack of communication from Siboor has left me befuddled. I will steer people away from Siboor in the future, as that is no way to treat a customer. Well, not your customer any more...
Wow. This is the most honest and real review Ive seen in a while. Amazing what happens when youtubers dont take freebies in exchange for "reviews" Great work!
My thoughts as well. Would be nice to have the internet return to informational purposes instead of shilling crap for companies that dodge bad publicity by changing names annually.
I would say I’m a novice to 3D printing, but I’m very technical because of the trade I work in. The way you describe the printer, from the hardware to the specs made total sense to me and I didn’t feel lost. Great video, thank you for the info, keep up the hard work!
I'm glad to hear that. As we grow it is hard to know if we can still relate properly to the folks at all levels, so it is great to get feedback like this!
I was able to get one in my country (Chile) at a discount for only 195 dollars, it's so cheap that I couldn't let it go, thanks for the video, it helped a lot
Great Video! @mandicReally, happy to heat you love the hardware kit 😁, Siboor is our oem for the V0 hardware kit and some other screw kits we sell but we spec them at bom+20% and depending on which revision you have we include our own Honeybadger abec 3 bearings instead of the generic ones. You also get our amazing customer service which would have sent you any screws you are missing along with new revised panels 👍👍 @13:49 into the video, now thats a great bed heater 😎. If you ever want to make a video of anything we have at the store let us know! Love that black and green build!
One of my favorite parts of the kit (minus the short on M3x6, but that's nothing to do with you). Heck half my original V0.1 came from you. Good spot on the bed heater .
This video was about 3 days after I bought a budget kit myself (still waiting on shipping) and saw this one after I checked out. I opted for one without the printed parts and will print them myself and love 3d printing for the tinkering aspect so I'm not worried about needing to modify, but that 150w bed is a little spooky. I'll make sure to read things a little closer after this. Thanks!
It's honestly not a huge deal that everyone is making it out to be. The original V0 bed was AC and 100 watts. You had to power limit the bed just like the rest of the Voron lineup. Heck the bed on a 250 V2/Trident is 500 watts. If you power limit the bed, you'll be fine.
@@option350z Poor people self source. Lol rich people buy a pre built kit. Lol I tried to self source that was hard as hell. I gave up. I would have had so much extra, everything
@@thelightspeed3d712 Too much of a tendency to go with bling/Gucci everything. High end linear rails, titanium screws, etc..turns a 400-600 dollar machine into a 1200-1500 one.
Fun fact. almost 6 months ago i contacted SIBOOR about the wrong number of bolts in there bolt kits according the voron parts list. Got told you wrong we are right go away. what an awsome customer service!
Great video, easy choice to subscribe, my v0.1 project is a bit of a frankenstein between the sub-component kits offered by siboor and stuff I had on hand. I too had serious problems with the frame, the first frame was blue and had 5 or 6 super uneven cuts and it was absolutely covered in scratches, dents and other surface defects. They to their credit after a bit of back and forth sent out a replacement black frame that is waaaaay better with nice clean and even cuts on the ends with accurate drilled holes and clean tapped threads on every extrusion. The issue is like you mentioned in the video is it's a project-stopper. I had to wait 3 weeks on the replacement hoping it would be up to spec and thankfully it was. I also grabbed the hardware kit from them and it was missing a MR85 bearing for the extruder which they also shipped out with the frame. The belts, 6mm aluminium bed, 24v silicone heater pad, magnetic sticker, pei springsteel, fans, cable chain and pulleys all seem to be fine so far. Siboor allowed me to build up a v0.1 for a lot less than I honestly expected, so I can deal with a few hiccups here and there personally but hopefully they take the feedback from the community on board and adjust accordingly.
Prior to LDO kits I bought two V0.1 Formbot kits. They are complete and decent, that said this segment is interesting because of the philosophy behind Voron, and other in this segment as well, that its not ment to be a cheap printer. Just less then commercial offerings of similar capability. $$$ for $$ rather than the budget printers $. Surely this is a trend that will continue due to the popularity of the machines. Wonderful coverage and I hope they do address all of the concerns you brought up.
It's good to finally see a review of this kit. I don't think there were any available that I could find when I bought mine. My good and bad experiences with this kit (being that solid reviews of this are hard to find): My kit seems from a different batch, from July, as the acrylic sides were Voron spec (at least area wise, not sure about the thickness). The printed parts are mostly fit for purpose. Layer adhesion is poor, and the over extrusion is an issue in some places. The worst incident occurred with the motor mount, where the self-tapping screws split the layer lines. I screwed it in a bit more carefully, and used it for a month or so before the failure became critical, but luckily I'd already printed replacement parts in that time. I also split one of the door hinges easily and one of the skirts. However most of the parts aren't reliant on layer adhesion to function well, just a few critical parts. The heatsink design is pretty convenient, I've ordered a few extra recently to change hotend designs on other printers. I did have a blockage early on with the supplied heatsink and nozzle. Upon taking it apart, there was still metal swarf from the thread cutting of the heatsink present. I suspect this was the cause of the blockage into the CHT-like nozzle. Electrical wise... I noticed the bed 150W issue when resolding the bed connections, as they were both poorly soldered, and not strain relieved. I also had to peel back the tape, because when testing all the electrical connections the bed thermistor was shorted. Taking it all apart, the thermistor wires had been twisted together a few times at the sensor. Luckily it untwisted without breaking. On contacting Siboor on AliExpress, within a day they explained to use the power limit in the config section. However, they really should have been shipped as the default config. Also electrical wise, the extruder motor was wired ABAB, not AABB (or the other way around). So pushed out the pins to match the other motors. Finally, the customer service I received on AliExpress was some of the best I've seen on there, always polite and helpful, although sometimes the answers took a day or two for technical questions or inquiries for buying extra parts. Each of these were met with a friendly response and suitable answer: Asking about components of the kit and build steps, mounting locations, passwords for root access for modifying the klipper install and requesting price quotes for extra parts, replacement beds and other 3d printing components. Overall, I think disagree with the general recommendation here. Yes the kit would be terrible for someone's first printer or if they lack tools/skills to test, tidy up and modify the parts if needed. However, I'd say it's worth the price for an entry level Voron if you have the tools and experience, but are missing a convenient way to get the printed components. I didn't have access to a reliable ABS printer and no other easy to access kits had printed parts for a reasonable cost. Maybe it's because I expected it to be pretty poor quality for the cheapest kit I could find, and was pleasantly surprised with most of it being average and hence suitable quality.
I'm currently building an LDO kit and I had a very similar experience with the specific fan you talk about not fitting. I used the Voron PIF and all my parts came looking amazing. The issue I found with inserting my fan was that I was installing it upside down. There is a small channel on the inside of the mini afterburner that I used for the hot end cooling fan cable, but didn't think to also use it for the second part cooling fan as well. I flipped around and boom, it fit in perfectly. As you said, the parts in that kit were over extruded, so even then, faulty parts. As for splicing the part cooling fans together to use one header on the board, it does make sense if later you want to add a carbon filter, such as a nevermore, that also uses a fan. Overall, definitely seems to an uninspiring kit.
The splice is also something called for in the original design since the BOM board did not have the extra fan header. This has largely been also solved by the use of either CAN boards or other PCBs like Hartk designed mounted to the hotend/extruder assembly.
what horror hath i wrought this time "I have a voron v0 that I don't know what I'm going to do with" well I think now you need to do one of the v0 mods, whether the tr-zero, flying zero etc
I purchased the FormBOT V0 kit over a years ago. It's a great printer, It's become my goto printer for printing ABS parts due to the fact that it heats up the chamber in around 5m.
All great points for a novice, I have a Qidi i-fast and I'm looking to dip my toes in in the built not bought pool . I'm toying with the idea of building an 0.2, but want a complete kit like this. You've given me lots of points to think about.
Hey Alan, It looks like Siboor has there 0.2 kit out. I'm hoping they addressed most of your concerns you had with the 0.1 kit. Would you consider making a video on it?
Looks like a fun project printer. But... yeah probably not worth the "savings" in the end. For the fan housing I'd hit it with a torch to soften it up, then smoosh it a little bit to get better clearance. I do that on half of my prints, especially when I'm designing a custom part that needs to fit right. You know what they say, measure once, melt twice. Stuff like that fake CHT doesn't sit well with me. Chinese companies play by a different set of rules and there is no enforcement of IP. And worst of all, they didn't even rip it off correctly!
Great review. Got my sub. Your comment at the end re the FormBot kit did it. I have, a bed slinger, which I built, and it has taught me much. I want to build a core xy and as you said, I think, the Voron VO, is the one I want to start with before I drop a couple grand on the big one. Thanks so much, great info throughout!
To be fair, the 150watt label is the dc side. Measuring on the wall doesn't take in the losses then come with an ac to dc converter. And i don't think a cheap meanwell supply will be very efficient!
SIBOOR has told me of updates they are making to the kits moving forward: "Questions mentioned in the video (the above will not be repeated) The problem of extrusion of aluminum profiles: the current inventory has been improved, (there is still a certain deviation) The problem of excessive green printer traffic: follow up with suppliers to improve The problem of screws: add 20 more M36 screws in each box of 0.1 screws." They also intend to release an updated config file to their github to address other concerns, look for it here: github.com/Lzhikai/siboor-voron
I've been wanting a Voron for a while and I got *really* excited when I saw this video, but by the end you had convinced me to look elsewhere and spend a little more. I love the choice of the Gemini board, but it seems like most of the other choices are bad.
Yup, you talked me out of it. I went with an LDO instead. Thanks for the video! Without it, I probably wouldn't have pulled the trigger on a Voron for quite a while yet, and I'm sure I'm going to be a lot happier with it than my TronXYs.
I just finished printing all the parts for my v0.2. I have been 3d printing for almost 7 months. The first filament I used was petg. I got into klipper 2 months in.. Apparently I like to struggle and torture myself. Anyway I still can't get ASA to behave. Fingers crossed that I can bodge this v0 together...
Really liked the video, subbed! :) I'm in the market for something like a Voron (because I just love building it myself and knowing exactly what I have and can do). But it's a frustrating experience already, let alone trying to built one from Ali, so I'm just saving up for an LDO kit. :)
Formbot and Fysetc have excellent kits, in my experience. I have an LDO 2.4 and my Formbot and Fysetc are exact replicas. The colored extrusions may be different than LDO, but you can buy the LDO extrusion kit to replace the non-LDO extrusions if you wish. I did on 4 2.4s and 4 v0.1s. I just started a bit ago, two months since hearing of voron, and have to say the non-LDO kits are improved over what I've heard. The fysetc 2.4 came with a Pi surprisingly. Not sure about their homebrand boards, but I haven't heard much complaints. The only issue I've had is with the v0.1 kits and the fans, but that is more on VoronDesign and their complete lack of coherent documentation - splittting the 5v hotend fan between the 12/24 fan1 rail and a 5v+ header pin that you'll have to hunt and search for, unless you have the exact specific board in the manual (sadly for the poor documentation the board shipping nowadays since over a year is the skr mini 3 v3 - no the 1.2 or 2 they only have docs for.) Each will have their own issues, but the LDO 100% markup over "lesser" kits seems out of whack. I'll happily buy a formbot or fysetc 2.4 kit in the future. V0.1 I'll stick to formbot. Fysetc's website rep tried giving me the 'ol switch and bait on a color frame kit.
Yea, overall if you can justify it, I'd spend some more for a well supported kit like LDO. The build process has its frustrations but not having to fight a kit will be a BIG help.
The 150W rating is for how much 24volt power it can supply (around 6.25 Amps), measuring from the wall doesn't really tell you how power its supplying. You need to measure the power use on the 24v side to see if its being asked to work out of spec.
You are right, I should have notated power efficiency in power supplies. However at its peak I saw 220W of draw. The data sheet for this PSU calls out "up to 90% efficiency". That likely isn't at peak output as PSUs usually don't work that way, but lets just say it is. At 220W with a 90% efficiency, we are at 198W, 48W over its rated output. It would have to be down at under 70% efficiency to get down to 150W. Possible, but any way you slice it this configuration of parts is pushing the limit on the power supply more than anyone should design it to.
Thanks for doing this review, i was very much wondering what could be expected from that kit. Also, I think that knock-off CHT nozzle needs porting, if you know what i mean.
Unfortunately they just upped the price to $400. Not sure if it's in preparation for black friday or something, but hopefully the price comes back down eventually.
I just followed the link in the description (exact listing I bought from) and it is still $291. They’ve been making updates to the kit and I’ve been expecting them to raise the price but it hasn’t happened yet.
Well, there is that saying 'You get what you pay for' and Chinese companies are not known for quality or quality control. I was actually looking at one like this and wondering if I should order it. I am glad I watched this video or I would have ended up with a peice of junk like I did with a small cnc that I bought off of gearbest that I ended up rebuilding. I do try to stay away from Chinese companies if I can just because of the poor quality though that really is hard to do. I noticed you said printed parts could be printed using ASA or ABS. Which is preferred. I have heard ASA is easier to print, but costs more.
24V 3mm heatbed? It's fine, i like that. 150W is kind of rough, it should have probably had like... 60W at that size? But pairing a 150W bed with a 150W PSU wow just WOW. My first thought is adding a separate 12V PSU for the bed. The rest of the printer runs on a 150W 24V PSU with room to spare, it'll be good. The bed running at half the voltage will run at a quarter of its rated power, so just shy of 40W. That is actually equivalent area power density to the classic 100W Prusa Mendel PCB heater, which will never ever ever exceed 140°C no matter how you try to toast it and doesn't need a thermal fuse.
Ordered last week. Tried to cancel but they shipped it to me halfway around the world overnight... Fingers crossed the MK3s+ took me a few days to build mostly because every thing had to be absolutely perfect. That said to me this siboor is good value. Don't forget u need to get Raspberry Pi @$100 In 2022 for the other kits and this AllWin H5 is faster. Will be swapping the leaky bimetal heatbreak with titanium. And for another $230 I can get CNC pretty parts. About the 150w bed, I measured 4.3 ohm so at 24v it can pull 5.5 amps and 135w... not good. The fuse provided are 10 amps I would definitely lower that.
I would think/hope they would add in a note to change the config file to limit the bed temp heater power output. That would fix that problem but it should at least be noted.
I saw these the first week they came on AliExpress and I almost pulled the trigger on a second V0. I kinda figured that there would be some issues with THE FIRST BATCH, if you recall when formbot first started doing kits that had some issues too. Hopefully Siboor will fix some of the issues you pointed out and make a better all around kit
Any hope of seeing a review of voron 1.6? I'm interested to see how a printer from them without linear rails stands up as steel axes are much cheaper to source.
I'd argue that metal print bed in this case is thin enough the thermal delta across points on bed is vastly reduced so warping from thermal cycling would likely be minimal. Though be reducing the thermal mass of the bed you expose to other issues...
That isn't a bad point, except that the bed is not cast aluminum but rather extruded sheet aluminum. Cast is by its nature more stable to temperature variation than Extruded. So that tips the scales back toward it having issues. Look at an Ender 3, they also have 3mm thick extruded sheet beds. Warping on their beds is very common. I did the math and an Ender 3 has a bed that is a little under 4 times the square area of this V0 bed. However an Ender 3 bed heater is only about 100W more power. Meaning the power density in this V0 bed is significantly higher. Again pointing toward issues.
Question ... I will have soon a Bambu Lab P1S and dont want to deal with the chemicals of resin printing. If I want to print small objects (maybe 2"), does it help to have a small printer or the P1S should give the same results ? And if a small printer helps, would you get a Voron V0.1, a V0.2, a Bambu Lab A1 minim, or something else not resin ? Thanks ! And great video as always !
A smaller Nozzle is gonna be your biggest key. A small printer likely won't have much or any impact on the results you get. The P1S with the Bambu .2mm nozzle would be what I'd try. You already have the printer, just install the smaller nozzle and try it out. The lowest layer height Bambu has a profile for is .06mm which is just a hair taller than most resin printers will do, but should give you great results. Honestly your biggest issue will likely be that Resin supports work differently than FDM supports and Resin printers can often print supported models with better results since the model is suspended in a liquid a lot of the time and doesn't have the head moving around on top of it. But really I'd say put in the .2mm Bambu nozzle and try it. Honestly the P1S is probably the better choice over the A1 Mini as well due to its fixed bed not moving around like the A1 bed slinger design does.
Watching this video and hearing the kit is from alexi express I am not surprised at all to hear there are a myriad of manufacturing issues and surprise design decisions. Forgive my ignorance if this isn't the case but I'm assuming Voron has a contract with someone in Shenzhen who has to copy all of their spec sheets and having dealt with factories overseas for my day job I can tell you that they regularly don't follow spec and there are almost always inaccuracies in the manufacturing. And there is always at least one head scratching surprise haha.
The Voron team puts out specs but has nothing to do with any production. They just create the design and it is up to end users or companies to do with them as they will. They aren’t making much if anything off of this. I generally find it to be a human issue. Tolerances folks are fine with in their work varies wildly. I was a metal fabricator for years and had many coworkers who… didn’t care. Or had plenty of times folks would come to me and say “your parts just fit, they never just fit…”. It’s sad but true that folks often just want to get stuff done, not necessarily done right.
14:55 the 150Watt PSU rating is the output NOT the consumption. if the PSU is 80% efficient (good) then it could consume 180 Watts... But yes, it is too wimpy for that bed.
To cut down cost at the expense of safety and design specs is against the spirit of the Voron imho. Yes, a cheap kit is nice but I’d rather not have free tools but a proper bed plate instead. Hotend and spring steel are secondary because they’re easy to source if you want to upgrade while a precise aluminum base isn’t.
The £310 price dose have be wanting it as iv been on the fence on getting a Voron as i only have a Ender 6 at the mo and thats a pile of crap and i did have a Ender 3 v2 that i started on but gave that to a mate to get him in to the hobby so thsi cheap kit has me tempted id just change out the bed and hot end and we good ? so it gives me a project to do with it make it better :D
A short question of personal Interest: Would you still not recommend this, if a otherwise complete voron would cost ~$100-150 more? As someone who tries being as efficient as possible with his money i'm honestly concidering this kit. even tho i'd try to contact the seller to get the mellow excluded from my purchase (BTT Pico + CB1 planed).
would cranking down power suply voltage be possible in this unit? because you could probably lower it to 12v and make 75w bed out of it or measure the resistance and smack 3 times bigger resistance power resistor on the back in series , wastefull but ir would work and the thing that interest me the most would those motors cut down if you power them from 12V
I was thinking the same thing. problem is, if that power supply is 24V you would need either an extra step down converter or an extra supply. I would go for an extra supply tbh.
Absolutely everything is based off 24v on a machine like this. The SBC wouldn’t get proper voltage to power anything in it. Klipper firmware has the ability to limit max power output power on the bed. That’s what I said I did and included in my Config file. Running resistive devices like that at voltages other than intended could have unintended load consequences. Lower wattage sure but may just never achieve the proper output at all. Hard to say and inadvisable.
Best to either limit the power used by the bed in klipper or replace it with one within spec. That bed seems a little suspect, so I'd probably replace it.
Hello i want to buy this printer as my first machine. When i want to order on Aliexpress it remove arround 70€ for taxes and shipping. Does this kit come from US? Im from Belgium and i wont pay somethin more for taxes. Thanks
1) This ships from China. I don’t know your country or situation to comment on shipping or taxes. 2) I absolutely do not recommend any Voron as a first printer. Operating a printer is one skill set to learn. Configuring & Tuning a printer is another. Building one is an entirely different skill set. Having a ready to go machine that requires little or no configuration to get started is a much better starting place. Building, Tuning, and Operating a Voron is all required to get it running properly. It is only recommended for experienced individuals.
i think they are on the right path, i'm pretty amazed that they also include 3d printed parts. formbot kit is still the cheap but quality kit as of today for me
My 8 year old knock off prusa printer can do a benchy in 34 minutes. 43 minutes for a Voron printer is trash. my printer has an ender 3 bowden setup, recently switched to 0.6mm nozzle 0.28mm layer height, and it still has a wobbly acrylic frame. modified it to as be quiet as a mouse. i might build a customized voron style printer in the near future. i dont need super fine layer height for everything i print but speed is more important.
.6mm nozzle makes a LARGE difference. That was also the 2nd print that machine has ever created. Not exactly ready to hit the race track on print number 2.
@@MandicReally Ah I see you're a man of culture as well, been 3D printing on and off with my Ender 3 v2 for about 2 years, keep up the awesome content my friend!
I actually have a question regarding the Volumetric Flow Rates you were talking about, do you have a video or guide on how to do that in Cura or what not? I am trying to push my machine and calibrate it correctly, printing around 125mm/s right now and figured since it prints correct I can push it further?
@mandicreally I installed the config file (thanks!) but am getting the following error: file contains no section headers, file: ‘/home/fly/klipper_config/printer.cfg’, line: 3 ‘MCU Details ’
That's a lot of power for that little of a heatbed. I buyed a cheap Tronxy printer, 330x330 bed at 260W, That's like 0.25w/cm2. This voron has 1W/cm2, that's a lot What is really strange is the meanwell PSU tripping. My Tronxy printer draws 260W at the bed but 400W at the WALL. Heating both hotend and bed reaches 500W from the wall. Just plain awfull efficiency The strange is that the PSU is a chinese 350W one but it can draw 500W no problem when heating, while the meanwell trips
Thanks for the video! I'm considering to buy it, out of the box the GEMINI board is capable of connect to the wifi network? Or is necessary to buy extra items?
The Gemini requires a Wifi Dongle but that is included in the kit with clear instructions on connecting to your Wi-Fi. That is a solid part of this kit. I don’t love the Gemini board for my own reasons, but it makes sense here.
I didn’t discuss them because there wasn’t really anything to discuss. No markings I noted and they worked surprisingly smoothly. The original cut of this video was twice as long. Can’t discuss everything there is to discuss in every video sadly, just no time for it all. I lubricated them liberally (no lube was included, I should have mentioned that) and they’ve worked well so far.
@@indecisivesquirrel3dlabs78 Klipper is not compiled on your computer. The SBC of the machine you are building will compile Klipper for itself. I'd HIGHLY recommend reading the manual for assembly of the machine and documentation of Klipper before going forward. Building and configuring one of these is a fairly steep step up from other machines.
I have zero experience with any CNC parts to give any input. They don’t include the Toolhead shroud but you can get SLS printed ones from some sellers. I don’t want to recommend anything I haven’t tried so sorry I can’t provide more input.
You said something about the slicer limiting the print speed because of the volumetric flow rate....what slicer are you using? And how do you set that up? I have only been using Cura, and would be interested in trying a different slicer.
There is no such thing. Voron isn't a company in particular. They are just engineers who design custom built 3d printers that folks can build for themselves. Did you buy a kit? Contact who you got the kit from. Or check out the Voron Discord channel, as that is the only "official" place to find any support from the Voron team, though it is really the community you'll get help from.
@@landerhoolsteens thats the one i've not tried, but I have tried the R6 and the mini, but they've been great, those ring heaters are rapid, I cant say I've had an y issues. plus you can use their "unity nozzles" if you want
You mean when I said that the printed parts don't have proper clearances? 3D Printed parts make up a lot of the structure of the machine. I showed how a fan didn't fit because the clearances were too tight. The extruder drives inside of a printed housing. Clearances are very important to a Voron's design...
Nearly impossible to say. Prices vary constantly. Also when you self source you are often buying from numerous retailers to get the best price, but then you end up paying more in Taxes & Shipping on those individual transactions. There is time lost when you miss one random component mid way through the build. My personal self sourced build cost SIGNIFICANTLY more than even a LDO kit would have cost. Granted I didn't aim to build a cheap machine, but a high quality one.
@@MandicReally thanks for the prompt reply, I suppose I forgot about taxes and shipping being added for each item individually. Which so for sure add up
@@danhyde7501 I kind of did too until I added up my build. 😅😅 I now really recommend people buy a quality kit and just customize the little items they want to make it theirs.
I couldn't find it on AliExpress and this was the first I'd ever seen it. Sorry but can't really provide anything more than that. I'm currently filming a video testing it to it's limits... it isn't impressive.
@@MandicReally huh thats strange. then maybe it depends on the location i am ordering from? clicked on your link and got 346 ish dollar as price plus 80 for shipping to germany.
@@captivatingtech3582 Must be due to where you are unfortunately. That is the stuff that makes me hesitate to even mention prices in videos, these websites can vary the prices on a whim.
