135,000 miles out of a Corsa VXR! That’s incredible mate... has to be down to the forging and just generally looking after it I reckon, great video pal😎
Only "bad" things I can say about my VXR (OPC here in germany) is that horrible Rattling noise that many have. (Compression good, Gearbox new, New Turbo and manifold flywheel had play so we think it's that). And the Climate-hoses bursting. There are a few little things, like the seatcovers coming off but nothing major. 143.000 Miles and still going at full power.
I have the E vxr running high BHP, never bothered to forge it. Had car from new and service it every 3k or 6 months. Never once gone wrong, absolutely love it.
just bought a 62 plate with 40k on the clock, full service history, stage 1 remap, straight through cobra exhaust , ramair intake. and i love it, i had a c250D AMG beforehand and the VXR puts a bigger smile on your face every time, worth buying if you find a good one thats been looked after.
I enjoyed the vxr range alot no issues my self I sold my Corsa to buy another rs turbo after 6 months, only worry for me was the piston and gearbox rumor if it blew then I ld have to repair it which costly really
I got a '07 Opel Corsa OPC which is basically the same for the Euro market. Had it for 1 year now and in love with it but there are some problems. Fortunetly I got one with low KM (116k - Low in Austrian Standards) and the only problem I encountered since my Ownership was resealing the Valve Cover and Oil Pan
Hi mate its me lol, am 53 i deliberately bought a corsa mine 14 plate, totally standard apart from k n n panel filter, Q, mine only boost to 10 odd n 15 on ob is that write for the gen 2 just wondered, i love my corsa vxr shape all ov it i could of got any car within reason lol but i went for corsa, friends say am mad, had the piston knocking on window n watch me gearbox fall of down the road, but not the case had it yr n no probs, jus oil changes ive done 2 so far, and me gearbox with millers nd, gutted for you with the astra, it soon a new year hope it works out better for you mate, keep the content going LOVE IT Moon ❤️
Any car you buy for 2800 you need to drop an extra 2000 on to get it in a reliable state isnt worth it mate lol should have just spent 5000 on one witg lower milage
I just purchased a 14plate vxr with 11k miles on it in (2022), I thought it would not have had a rough life due around 1.3k miles a year, It had a mushroom filter and no map. The previous owner was 100% ragging the car around as the transmission fluid was bascially non existent when we diag'd it, and the wheel bearing on the nsf was also fu**ed + the flywheel was barley holding on... 11k miles, the poor thing all getting claimed through 6 month warranty... when I leave for work on a morning I allow the car 5ish mins before setting off and dont push past 3k revs for the first 20mins if at all, then when arriving wait a further 1-2 minutes at idle to allow it to cool even if I drove like miss daisy. Doing a full service incl bfluid next week and I got the car the dealer said it was serviced no stamp in the book tho since 2020. Now doing research into injectors to help the car along with fueling issues but no stupid maps or redlining it on standard injectors, just look after the thing's and they will last. People wonder why their piston just popped when they where redlining a cold engine with fueling issues every day for a year then go and say it's unreliable.
Oh man least it’s finally in good hands now least it’s a low miles one rare now days welcome to vxr ownership if u have any questions etc I will help out best I can 🤙🏻
@@Yodaracing1 What injectors would you reccomend (where to buy) and what company would you reccomend getting them mapped in by? I'm not so bothered about maximum performance just overall reliabilty as it is a daily driver. And is there any more modifications you would reccomend for reliability that arent bank breaking.
@@LARGE_COKE 395cc injectors will be fine for u try wg motorworks or Courtney sport also nevlock aswell for parts as for mapping depends where u are in the country
They get bad reps due to people not servicing them , supporting the mods they put on them and wonder why they get issues .. warm the car up and down before and after use and look after them dont cheap out on replacement parts service and maintane youll be fine I just recently got a 11 plate one , had it 9 days and blew ... abused previously and mapped without support and had to fork out another 2k on engine rebuild and remove the map ! Awsome cars if looked after
Bet you're loving your ClubSport now! The price has gone up massively. I have a Nurburg with 70k, I think they will go the same way! We just need more chavs to write theres off, and where on to a winner ha!
I've had 2 of these one being a nurburgring, both from new, my first one had a new gearbox at 7k apart from that it ran faultless for the time I had it, and my burg I had it stage 2 not forged and had no problems at all apart from a coolant hose and the seat base broke, I guess I was one of the lucky one's with regards with pistons lol
Yea they are a lottery these cars but you only really hear about the bad ones not many people say on pages etc that their car is running perfect etc if that makes sense lol
Yeah its pot luck, you can get low mileage standard car that doesn't get abused let go on you and matey down the road with a flash map that lives on the limiter and his car will just keep on going, its been like 7 years since I had one but I still like the idea of getting a clubsport edition and doing a forged cammed k06 build
@@badboydave1908 dramatically reduces it as long as it’s been mapped correctly if you end up with a remap but if you have a poor map won’t matter how strong the pistons are if it’s running lean due to poor mapping the engine will still go bang lol
@@Yodaracing1 yeah mate he's had all sorts of cars, R35 GTR, RS3 etc etc. We just found a nice one and he bought it as a daily and to be honest once he buys his class of car again I might take it off him haha! But he honestly has nothing bad to say about it, for the money you pay, what else can you really get?
Looking to get one of these soon, tad excited coming from my Clio 200 RS. Would a map that tells ECU to fuel rail to deposit a tad more fuel to piston 4 help alleviate the problem? (No BHP/Torque increase) I don’t really want to go down the forged route as I want the car to remain as stock as possible! I’ve been down the mods route with the Clio and had my fun, just want a nice tidy little weekend toy now! Fingers crossed I guess.
It's not a bad car. It's the idiots who don't know how to care for an engine. It's always good practice to let an engine warm up before you rag it. And let it cool down properly. Keep your engine in good condition and the car will see you through
It’s not the car it’s the driver I really do miss mine and was young and stupid not listening to other like let it warm up cool down and stuff and then sent it for it’s bodged job lol
Does the turbo supposed to make a noise near the dash in right hand corner when you accelerate have a woosh noise with a slight whistle? After you release ?do you know this
These come with cast pistons you can get the engine built using forged pistons and rods obvs much much much stronger so ideally buy one that’s already been forged saves you money in the long run 👍🏻
Piston four was only ever a problem due to poor remapping and thorney motorsport teste four vxr corsas all of which had the same tuning companied map installed and the problem is that they map it to a point of running the engine lean which is too much air not enough fuel and as piston four is at the opposite end to the fuel pressure regulator the pressure is weaker at that end which causes a problem of under fuelling at number four and of they have not upgraded the injectors to suit the map the injector duty cycle is maxxed out so when you couple that with a weaker pressure the piston detonates which is a slight melting of the alloy crown area which at best just makes a hole and at worst will cuase the piston to cease in the bore resulting in a snapped conrod which in turn exits the engine through the block and is a messy affair... If the car is standard you should have very few problems
@@philiprhodes5537 very well said mate 👍🏻👍🏻 the injectors are pretty much maxed out on the stock map so asking more power from them is asking for trouble very informative post mate that should help other people who are a bit unsure aswell 👍🏻👍🏻
Hello I believe I asked a question once before but after a lot of consideration there’s more information I need. I got quoted a pretty good insurance price for a remapped VXR, less than what I currently pay on my 1.3 CDTi. So I’m very tempted to buy one. I understand the arches rust from a panel gap issue which is easily resolved, but what about the sills? Is that part of the same problem or is moisture getting in and rusting them another way? Also about the injectors. Is there any way I can check if they are on their way out? I realise they are partly responsible for piston 4 going sayonara. how long should the engine be allowed to warm up before revving it hard? I plan to buy one as a weekend summer car for now, not a daily (although this will likely change when my 1.3 gets too expensive to repair). I typically drive at an absolute snails pace until I get across town which takes me about 10 minutes. It’s all 20 where I live now too so I figure it’ll get a chance to chill out before switching off the engine too. Can significant be had from cylinder head work? Finally is it possible to do a conservative remap on the stock injectors for more top end nearer the red line without going crazy trying to maximise “drivability” or whatever. Hoping to buy one in January if things go according to plan. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Sills are usually fine it’s mainly being mapped on stock injectors that kills p4 usually give it 15-20 mins before smashing it head work cams only main benefit when going over 280 and never map a car on stock injectors always uprate 395cc minimum
@@Yodaracing1 sweet Ty. I’m kinda past the point of going crazy now. Kinda grew up a bit when I actually got a car earlier this year and realised how expensive it is just to keep an old car in good condition. So I was really thinking of doing mostly cosmetics. Fancied a pop and bang map as well but if it’s risky I’ll leave it. Looking to keep it long term so I want to make sure it stays in as close to showroom condition as possible. I’m nearly 26 so I’m a bit more level headed than many of the people who are reputed to buy these cars. Shame they have such a bad rep, I feel it’s horribly underserved. Still if it means I get a nice car at a bargain price I can’t really complain. I’d consider a 1.7 as well but I like the VXR’s special aesthetics. Really looking forward to it. Thanks again
@@Yodaracing1 thanks for the heads up. I guess my parents and the neighbourhood will be relieved :P I’d like to do a decat but worried about MOT and VOSA goons putting up checkpoints. My old 1.3 diesel doesn’t have a dpf and it cracks me up flooring it when I have an EV or a Prius behind me. I must frightfully chavvy but it makes me laugh. I wish it could continue but all good things have to end eventually. Id have kept this one for another 20+ years but it’s gonna cost more to repair in paint and corrosion alone then buying a clean VXR or 1.7 so I can’t justify it. Hopefully this time round works out. I’ll look into bigger injectors and a map down the line but for now I just want one that has plenty of life left in it and I plan to keep it that way
Depends who u use mate I would say around 2 grand is the average price for forging I paid 2k at wg motorworks but Phil Nichols is cheaper and does good work 👍🏻
Gearbox bearing wears out causing the box to have issues and p4 fails due to the poor Inlet design and Injectors being maxed out on the stock map then people increase the power of them etc and don’t treat them correctly I did a video on how to prevent p4 popping if u want a look 👍🏻👍🏻