Been in this trade 11 years I am a licensed electrician and still love your videos for the simple fact it keeps it fresh on your mind and I wish I found you or the channel electricianu when I was starting out. You would have helped my career tremendously back then. Great work sparky
@@SparkyChannel No problem sir. Thank you and keep up the amazing work! We need to inspire and help the next generation grow into this trade because our numbers are low and not as many people are joining our trade.
As an electrician, I can say, you are very thorough sir, I applaud your knowledge and appreciate you taking the time to show in the code book too. If I have any questions in the future I will seek out your videos first!
The apprentices you taught were very fortunate to have you as a mentor/instructor! Your chosen RU-vid format is genius; start off with a rough in example of something one will see out in the field and then dissect it according to the NEC which you clearly reference and show. It is extremely simple; at the same time brilliant and effective. Over the years life has taught me that the "best" in any chosen industry/discipline or trade make what they do look EASY. It is a rare find when just such a MASTER (you "Sparky") of their material is at the same time an excellent teacher. Your channel is among the best of educational material available on RU-vid.
I am an electrical engineer, I follow the plumbing, electrical and building codes which all continue to increase in complexity and the details. My experience is there is nothing you can put in writing that replaces COMMON SENSE and GOOD TRADE CRAFT. 9 Years ago, probably about the time emphasis was placed on overcrowding boxes, I was on a job where the electrician stripped the sheath on 3 12-2 romex, leaving 24" of wire. I watched him strip the ends connected directly to an outlet and used your yellow plastic tool with amazing skill to make 5 or 6 tight bend, using great skill, put the outlet in place and put great strain on the screws to force all the wires in the plastic box. I asked why.... answer, that's how I was taught. The reason for limiting the number of wires based on cubic inches and device is a combination of mechanical stress and potential overheating at max load. In retrospect, I wish I made a video, would send it to you.
I've never come across a video with this content and I'm grateful you took the time to do this. I'm a DIYer only so RU-vidrs like yourself and the content you provide are invaluable to me. Thank you for posting this one, super informative and helpful.
That was the most informative video I've seen on RU-vid on this subject. That explains how and why of calculating box space. Two thumbs up and a high five for that!
My dad talked to me one day about planning ahead. He said (paraphrasing) "If you add up all the cost for an entire house for doing it cheap vs doing it right, it's not that much difference, but the cost later is significantly higher if you do it cheap." He was referring to putting in larger boxes, spec grade devices, even running 12/2 when commonly 14/2 is used and so on. Over the years I have seen this principle prove itself time and time again. I usually don't even bother buying the smaller dimension boxes except for a very few cases. Ounce of prevention.
I never knew there was a calculation on how much stuff you can put into a box. I always use bought a box based on can I physically shove all of it into it. Now I know better. Thanks.
I just used this information when I decided to use up two pieces of leftover 10/2 and a piece of 12/2 for a new 20 amp GFCI circuit in a garage. The 30 cu inch box works great and left lots of room for the GFCI receptacle.
@@andrewpayne6295 I'd say they are garbage based on the minimal surface-area contact. They may be rated for 20A, but what's the resistance at that power draw when you have a string of these? I'd also be concerned about heat-cycling that thin strip of spring metal. I wonder if someone has put these things on a thermal camera and/or calculated resistance when passing that much current. I'd be willing to bet the wire nuts fair much better because all else being equal: resistance is a function of surface area.
The dancing receptacle made me smile very hard while dragging myself through this homework. Thanks for all your videos we really do appreciate and love ya for them! Hope you have an amazing holiday this year! -Cheers from an IECRM first year apprentice.-
I am so glad you are back! I was worried something terrible had happened to you. Really sorry to hear about the loss of the old channel and videos. That’s such a huge loss of content. 😞 However, so glad to see you are back! The BEST channel for all things electrical!
Thanks so much! My goal is to have a great attitude about it and make it work out for the better. I really appreciate the concern and the good wishes. Bless you!
You sometimes can't put in a deeper box like when putting a receptacle in a wall framed with 2x3 studs instead of 2x4s. What you may need to do is use a wider box for installing a single receptacle or switch.
Stuffing the wires back into the box is tricky. I didn't think to stuff the wago connectors in first and leave the pigtails out. That would have made it much easier and cleaner. Sometimes when I am in awkward positions I don't think so clearly:)......Thanks for the videos!
www.amazon.com/dp/B01G4CM96K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_xwo8FbGCF4665 called a pliers. It’s a tool for people with arthritis or carpal tunnel issues. Or for those with no strength in their fingers. From the look of this guys hands he could have arthritis or carpal tunnel and at his age there is no need to beat yourself up with wiring. Let the tools do the work, smarter not harder
10:18 sometimes though, gotta use a 20.3 b/c of space behind the box, and can’t upsize; so know you’re good on fill, 8s key before starting, b/c last thing wanna do is do a rip-out (not rough out or rough in 😉) when inspector comes and decides to pull cover plate (if already on) and calculates fill….they’ll make ya redo, or possibly add extension, but again, if zero space ….and not possible to add bigger box, this gets tricky. Example, adding receptacle in a wall that has concrete “framing/slab” all way to roof soffit and you need to use low profile boxes or 15.x-20.3 boxes on fill to make them “fit”, not able to cut thru concrete etc….and so, gotta really calculate that box fill b/c those inspectors will find and check, never fails😉 Cheers✌🏻
@@ArkamasRoss just something i learned over my 12 years. But if you have to many wires in your box even if its up to code with box fill calculation but for some reason if its tight and pushing against your device it'll cause it to trip and not reset until its fixed
sparky sorry about your videos I learned a lot with them and I'm glad that you do more again I would like you to make a video about arc foult breaks and the different double breaks both together and separately to know when and where they should be used thanks sparky for your time and forward your number one follower greets you
The offset 30.0 box is awesome. Also, the ones they make when you cut your hole right in line with a brace and you don't have the depth but need a shallow offset box. Next...how many wires can you get in a one-inch pipe? As always...one more. LOL
I got a question for you if you can help. I just bought a house and in the living room they provided pre wiring for ceiling fan. This is the 14-3 wire (white, red, black and copper). I was wondering if you can explain how i can use this pre wire to connect recessed light. Note the recessed light only have 14-2 wire (white, black and copper. Not sure how i can use this same connection for both ceiling fan and recessed light. I hope i explained it better. Looking forward for your reply.
I have a question about the connectors, aren't they using the same principle as the push in connections on the cheap receptacles. Why would they not fail the same way as on the recepticle? I've used them with a light fixture that came with that type of connector, and they are handy. But I was just curious of the failure rate.
Had some trouble recently in an existing 2-gang box. One switch was a 3-way and the other was a 4-way. I replaced the old toggle switches with a Legrand paddle switch. That 4-way was really packed in there. Pretty sure it was overstuffed. I am ashamed.
One thing you didn't use to calculate the fill was the outlet possibly being a GFIC vs standard outlet, even though the code doesn't distinguish them by yoke?? When in doubt always use the deeper box.
just recently found your channel, and love it please keep the videos coming. I do have one question, what is the yellow tool that you use to push the wires into the box?
Bill, I love your channel and videos. No offense at all because we all have our own style and you know your shit! But your splice in that single gang box looks like my 5yr old did that. I'm pretty ocd about how my guys work and my own work looks. The work must look like it was a pro who completed the task. Anyone can just slop wires in a box. Again not that you are not a pro/master of what we do....But as instructors we as professionals need to make sure we set the example for others to go that extra mile to make sure that every box is as clean as they can possibly be. Thanks again for all the awesome videos!!!
What makes you think this guy is a "master at what we do"? Anyone who makes a box up like that with push in connectors has not been trained properly and is not a master. Dude knows code, sure. Master? Obviously not
Thanks for the great video. Very informative. I appreciate that you explain the code. What about metal boxes? Do they need to have the volume stamped also?
First of all love Sparky channel! But I guess you might have a different version of the 2020: this is another box fill video that you did but they’re different? Why is that just curious
I have an outlet I opened up yesterday in a house i just bought that has 5 14/2 wires running into the outlet box. This is a single outlet box. Would getting a double or triple outlet box and adding 1 or 2 more outlets to the gang make this safer? It is way too crammed and obviously exceeds Cubic Inch space requirements.
Thank you thank you thank you. Your work and channel is quite useful for us home owners who wish to do things right. Question. Dont you use the Wego locking connectors anylonger??
Hi Sparky, First, thank you so much for such a great video and explanation of the calculation of cubic space needed. So, I was taught, though(once upon a time) that the ground wires had to be a non- reversible( or crimped) connection. Are push connectors considered to be non reversible?
Here's a question for you - I've seen many electricians saying DO NOT use the 'push-in' wiring on outlets/switches (and I've never used them, I've seen them pull out, and just don't feel reliable) - But now I'm seeing these Ideal In-sure blocks instead of wire nuts - What's your take on this difference? Both are push-in... (I did just use them on an LED hi-hat install, also I tape everything for a little extra insurance if a clip loses tension)
does a smoke detector count on the yoke volume. It sits outside the box unlioke a switch or an outlet that occupy space in the box ? Same with a light ?
How is 20.25in smaller then 20,3in? I don't understand. Logically I would be safe and go with a bigger box. Sorry I never finished the video before I asked this question. Now would you fail inspection using that size box?
Here in WV everyone says use 12 wire because it handles more and I see it all the time, an 18 cube box with 3 to 5 12/2 wires plus the gfci or other device, I say yeah lets just disregard the factors that cause fires. Another good one is 4-6 or more 12/2 wires through a 3/4 inch drilled hole.
Great videos. {lease can you provide advice on testing and troubleshooting of electrical circuits and the use of push in connectors over the use of wire nuts. I live in Thailand which seems to follow (in parts) the NEC code but, does mix and match with other regulations so, can be confusing. Thanks
I appreciate you address code and explain it so I can understand. (I've read code and it's a nightmare to decipher, at least for me.) Working in the house my father built my guess is your guess is right on the money, within code and just barely. Doing rework I call that an overstuffed box and for the less experienced a nightmare to work with. I've based a lot of my choices building a home on what my father did and come to the conclusion he was stingy about some things. I know Small Things add up when building a home however there's a whole lot of things I would do different next time I build. Among them is big boxes for multiple cables. 😆
Stumbled upon this video at the jobsite. I've never included wirenuts in the volume calculation but two of the newer guys said they were taught to add it to the volume in school. I suppose this videos reference to the code sorts that matter out, but it confuses me as to why they wouldn't mention connectors in the code as they mentioned locknuts and bushings. Also not a fan of those push in connectors but to each their own.
DIYer here. I concur. Connectors are in almost every box. Locknuts and bushings are relatively rare, especially in non-metallic boxes. The Code should be updated to reflect this. As to push-in connectors, i prefer them in more crowded boxes. (Well, OK, I like them everywhere; much easier to use, especially by those of us who do not use wirenuts all day long, day in and day out. And unlike aluminum wiring, and backstabbing receptacle connectors, I do not see hordes of pros regaling us with horror stories on pushin or better, lever-lock connectors.
Been doing Electrical Work for over 40 Years. I Always Use 22 cu inch plastic boxes with 12 Wire. Folding wires in and GFI outlets make it a better installation, Never more than two 12-2 cables in a one gang box. Code is a Minimum. Real Wire nuts not a fan of plastic pushin wire connectors.
Not the optimal place to ask, but if you have two separate circuits running to a two-gang box, do the grounds have to be combined where they’re in the same box or can they be separate? Or do they have to be separate?
If multiple circuits are spliced in the box, then the equipment ground for them needs to be spliced together in that box. If you have a cable just passing through it doesn't have to be spliced. See 250.148.
That yellow connector, is that for 12g wire only? Just curious. I’ve been wire caps in my house I wish I seen this beforehand definitely save a lot of room in box.
I was thinking the same thing Bruce. The NEC says you must count clamps (1 based on the largest conductor) but Sparky did not count it in his fill. I am not sure why? I always use the deeper boxes from Home Depot with a cubic inch fill of 22.5 so it would allow the clamp to be counted in this example and still meet code.
What? Neutral doesn't have a "phase". It's either the center tap of a transformer (split phase, or high leg), or the the common rail of the windings in a wye system. There may be multiple _systems_ in the facility where you wouldn't want to bridge their neutrals. ('tho all neutrals are "grounded conductors", so it _shouldn't_ break anything more than words on a page ("code") BUT, in the Real World(tm) neutrals from different systems may not be at equal potential -- as I have seen before.)
@@SparkyChannel how is that correct? Neutrals from different circuits should not be connected but there is no way to connect then to a different "phase" as they are never connected to a "phase" unless it's a fault
Love the outlet dance. You are so well inform, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Do you have video showing how to do wiring for kitchen remodeling?
What length of wire do you remove the romex sheathing from to go into the box? I can't find any information on how much unsheathed wire is allowed or recommended for box fill.
I WISH my boxes were 20.5 cu in. Mine are the old Bakelite with fiberglass and are only about half as big. They’re not marked (not even branded), but they’re smaller than the Carlon grey Handy Box which is 11.5 cu in. I’ve been installing smart switches which are fairly large, and I have to shove everything back in. I’m gonna go back and take them out and put in some of the 22 cu-in Smartboxes, or the Carlon 24 cu-in boxes, both of these allow screwing into the stud at an angle (so long as you drive the screws below the plastic so as not to leave the heads exposed).
I routinely cut those cramped (and often filthy) things out (how I love my battery-powered reciprocating saw!) and replace with a larger Old Work box, largest I can fit in the wall. And yes, for oversized devices such as GFCIs i prefer pushin or leverlock connectors. (DIYer here.)
And thanks for turning me on the Smartboxes with angled-in screws! Going to start using those on my next project; I never di really trust the ear-flaps.
I'm not a fan of those type of connectors/connections. They seem similar to the system/type used in devices such as switches and receptacles. While they are smaller and easier to use, I don't think they will stand the test of time. I perform a great deal of electrical maintenance and repair in homes. I find high failure rates with these push-in connections on switches and receptacles in damp/moist areas. Mostly bathrooms, kitchens and outside walls. Not everything new IS improved.
there's actually a code violation on all of those pigtails if anyone knows what the code says about free wire in the box past the make up shall be 6 inches for any box less than 8" in diameter, the wire shall be long enough to extend 3in past the face of the box (article 300.14). I'm pretty sure those pigtails could have been a little bit longer. I was taught from the beginning about 6 inches from the face of the box or the side of my hand to the tip of my thumb pointed out. It works out for a nice make up; fold the wire once and tuck the device in the box. I know those metal boxes are a bit small, but when you are trying to push the wire back and it points straight back because you made the wire so short it wont fold behind the plug or switch, it's hard to put it in there without feeling like one of those wires may get damaged because it's too short to fold! all I'm saying. takes more time to push it in and time on the job is money wasted in my opinion. 2 more inches of wire and it goes smooth. I think if the safety issue were brought up on that, they may change it. You should send in your request, Bill! lol
Be careful about this; you do not want to create a gap between the front edge of the box, and any combustible wall material, such as wood paneling. There are slip-in box extenders that cover the gaps. You will also need longer coverplate screws.
I WISH my boxes were 20.5 cu in. Mine are the old Bakelite with fiberglass and are only about half as big. They’re not marked (not even branded), but they’re smaller than the Carlon grey Handy Box which is 11.5 cu in. I’ve been installing smart switches which are fairly large, and I have to shove everything back in. I’m gonna go back and take them out and put in some of the 22 cu-in Smartboxes, or the Carlon 24 cu-in boxes.
I had a 3 seperate wires in a receptical and I didnt use connectors or lugnuts. I used the 2 on the side and put the 3rd in the push-in in the back of the receptical. Is that wrong to do?
Because it's legal per NEC. See: Is this to Code for 2020 NEC? (314.17 Conductors Entering Through Cable Clamps): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FZslAYtmXtw.html
I was looking at your boxes you should go over fire ratings cuz I can see you have certain car in boxes are thicker and then you had the real flimsy one I'm not sure but I think it has a lower fire rating
7:10 Click on the timeline time I provided above and it will take you to where he shows, reads and explains the code for grounding conductors and pigtails.
All grounding conductors are counted as 1. Fill ratios have to do with conductors and HEAT. the key word is heat. Grounds only conduct current if there's a ground fault and don't see any loads other than a ground fault. The other conductors see all sorts of various loads through the day and any load will create heat. Yes you can probably get one more cable in there with some effort but you're also adding heat. Too many live conductors in a box can create too much heat. That's the reason for box fill and the reason why all grounds are only counted as 1 conductor in the total fill.
