Hi thanks for the analysis, there is a Chinese climber who also analysis the same boulder probelm, and he has a point from a different perspective, let me try to summarize it. This problem favors shorter climber. Due to the volume is very shallow, taller climbers naturally need more space to turn their hips but those space are not given in this problem. Examples: 1. shorter climbers(brooke, ai, larua, zelia, camellia, under 160cm), they all did this problem gracefully by turning their hips and facing sideway, which is the most natual and efficient way for them. 2.Natilia(161cm) did the problem by crimping the edge of the volume so she can stay close to the wall with additional frictions. 3.Oriane(167cm) used the short beta but it took her forever to micro-adjust. 4.Janja(165 used the short beta initially but couldn't do it then she did the beta break. 5. Jessica and Luo used the best beta for taller climbers, not turning the hips, faceing the wall completely and did the probelm gracefully. Above are alll the climbers who did the problems, to summarize short climbers are better at this kind of problems because they need less space to more so they are stay next to the wall. Props to taller climbers who also completed the problem. Original video is on www.bilibili.com/video/BV1xdWUeAETf/, if anymore is interested(Chinese).
My thoughts exactly. I'm nearly 190cm and find a lot of problems have simular issues for me that are not even a thing for 160-170cm climbers. Also the lower hand hold is at hight were Brook is almost pulling down where Janja has to bend knees thus pushing certer of gravity out to be able to grab the hold without it becoming a undercling and un-usable
@@Orimthekeyacolite its all swings and roundabouts. In my gym they set a lot of climbs so the comp kids can do them. I find some of them rediculoulsy hard becuse everything is so cramped. But other stuff I can easy static dyno's and send climbs the shorter ladies I climb with cant do
Funny that Janya’s solution hasn’t been referred to as a beta break. While I was watching it during the comp, my immediate reaction is that these super delicate moves are a weakness, but only relative to her other superlative abilities. Not that it matters much, but I imagine the route setters will learn something from her performance as well, and may try to challenge her further in subsequent comps.
For sure! We are pretty sure the setters didn’t anticipate anyone doing the problem this way! Intuitive and quick thinking, whilst “listening” to her body!
I reckon that it would make more sense if you have taken heights and body types into account and look into betas of different height categories, cuz after all in boulder comps, athletes are looking for solutions that could work for them individually. For this problems, shorter ones or ones that have smaller physique have more room to maneuver on slabs. Taller or more packed ones doesn't share such advantage in this kind of situation. Among those taller, more buffed athletes, Janja broke the beta, Jessica (Zhilu as well) found the beta.
Yep, for sure height plays a part, as it always does. We believe shindex (length of shin) and the lower center of gravity add up. That said, the shorter the climber, the lower their hips in relation to the volume and therefore less room. We will see if we can find footage that we can judge distance differences though. The other thing that could be discussed is foot length. This has pros and cons too. The longer the foot, the more space you can create, but also the more leverage on the toe. We touched on ankle flexion and strength, but these are all factors. Ultimately Janja should have gone for the higher hold on her flash go. Jessy’s method was certainly the most elegant.
I thought it also had to do with her being stronger and her centre of gravity being further away from the wall than thinner climbers. This helps her on every other angle, but hinders her on steep slabs.
Smaller climbers will have lower CoG, so slabs, in theory are easier. There's an argument out there that they also found this move easier due to the gap in the volume, but I think this makes more sense if you are slightly taller. Janja is only a few inches taller than Brooke and we aren't sure that this makes a massive difference. Weight absolutely makes a difference though. Unfortunately we are seeing lighter and lighter climbers and they will find smaller feet and slabs easier (for certain moves), but this only lasts a certain amount of time and has big repercussions on health.
I wonder how much of her struggle is because of her toe injury last year? I feel like that kind of thing can affect your balance or even confidence for a while.
When we originally launched this video, that was the biggest concern for most viewers. As it was a long time ago, I doubt it was an issue, but it would certainly affect the angle of approach and strength on the small jibs!
That slab with for 4 tries was best what you can get. Janja did it with 4 tries. Other athletes need more attempts to do that slab. How comes that she does it better than others and it is called as weakness? Janja does lot of things very creatively and i would say noone would teach to do things in that way and for average climber even impossible to repeat (for example, Janja kick, dyno moves statically), but it is working for her. It is why she is the best. Doing slab dynamically is just one more example how to break beta in Janja style.
Exactly - unfortunately the title is a bit of click bait :( for RU-vid. That said, we are looking at what took Janja the longest - her weakness may still be something that she is better at than most of the other climbers. Janja, is without doubt the best comp climber of all time and we understand and respect this...It's just interesting seeing why this move saw her fall a few times before she came up with the beta breaker!
@@roapcoaching917 and i am here to tell you that i don't like click bait title :) from my side of screen looked that she wanted to do dyno from first attempt, but the same time tried to be decent climber and do what route setters said.
Are the differences not largely due to Janja attempting to go two hands to the low hold? I feel the issues which you compared to other climbers would have rectified itself if she had gone 1 hand to the lower hold and 1 hand to the higher hold like everyone else shown besides jessica pilz.
For that attempt, yes. Her beta was off. The subsequent attempts saw slight differences in her foot angles etc. IF she’d have gone to the higher hold on her flash go, she’d have probably flashed the climb.
@@roapcoaching917really crazy that all discussion on the olympics gets taken down so easily. I would think this is clearly educational and should be covered by fair use. Mani the Monkey also just had an analysis video taken down...
She hasn't been doing super well with slabs for a while, the European Championship and another world cup where Oriane won coming into mind. I would say it's a weakness of hers, or at least she doesn't seem to be as confident as she's approaching to other styles of boulders. Also, I honestly doubt five ten is the best choice for tiny edges..
These comps were shortly after her injury. Give her break. Show me other climber shortly after injury in first 2-3 comps, who was on podium. I don't know other.
I agree RE 5.10 for small edges - these shoes are stiff out of the box, but get soft and rounded quickly. It is her biggest weakness - yes, she's still amazing at slab, but certainly where she looks the least secure.
The broken toe. Don't worry, everyone knows Janja is the best...it's interesting to see why she finds a movement/comp hard though. In the past, the injury was certainly a reason why - not anymore. Stress certainly played a factor here - it's tough being on the top!
@@jieyang7146 she did not cried after final slab, but she was close to tears after last final boulder, when her finger stuck and it was good reason to be.
