Do you think this saw is a game changer? Personally I could see this being super handy! @festoolusa just turned this older design to a new updated cordless model! Pretty sweet I hope they bring it to the states!
@@newbluerugby When he put the tool up to the saw, it didn't fit flush so he moved it and changed the angle of it, making the entire exercise pointless. You can see when he puts the bits together that the right one isn't flush to the wall.
@@btrswt35 Exactly! Hahaha! If it's being painted, and my guess is that it is, because of the preprimed look, then WTF does it matter on internal corners? On external corners it's best to overcut the mitre slightly, so that the front of the mitre joint meets and just needs sanding back to take the sharp edge off it. The main point of the exercise is to 'just get on with it' if you want to make any money! All this 'expert' scribing in is ok if you're working with polished hardwood and you want to make a good impression with some naive client, until they get ticked off with big labour bills all the time. Haha!
That's what I thought the first time I saw this saw demoed. You will need a 16' circle out feed table with a hole in the middle that you have to crawl up into😂😂😂😂
Here's the problem with a mitered inside corner. They will always open up. A cope joint will never open up, especially with base molding that has any detail to it. So from a carpenter, learn to cope an inside corner and your work will be clean and you won't need that ridiculous saw
I would not buy it if I needed it and I own a Festool miter saw for my trim business! My Makita weighed 80 pounds and my Festool weighs 56. It’s dead nutz on also ! But I cope however you ever cope window trim?
When there's an apron underneath the window sill I was taught the correct way of finishing each end was to make a return miter cut and then glue it up. Obviously that is more time consuming than coping the profile of the trim on either end. Unfortunately where I work that kind of quality isn't appreciated so I just cope the profile and call it a day. Not sure where you're from but if you ever find yourself in PA, take a tour of the Asa Packer Mansion in Jim Thorpe, PA. It's a Victorian mansion in all of its glory with solid oak throughout. Those guys didn't have power miter saws or pin nailers. Have a great day friend
Yeah he should leave the wood cutting to the people who are trained to do it like the electricians and go back to fitting pipe like CARPENTERS are meant to do?
hahaha so true bro. also when do u ever put on trim that 200mm. imagine having to run around with your saw bench or legs or stands or whatever to suit the angle u cut. festool becoming makita with junk money printers. back to HILTI obviously.
It's a game changer if you only have walls that run 2 feet. Just buy a digital angle measurement for speedy operation. It will give you the miter angle in a second and you can still use your 12" Dewalt and cut through 4 inch base...
I loved the part at the end where he didn’t keep the right stick tight to the wall. I’ve been a trim guy for 37 years. Believe me when I tell ya, there’s nothing that has hit the market that has been a game changer since the electric chop saw! You should be coping all your trim anyway! This is possibly a good tool for a homeowner.
@@diffened Wtf you talking about. Coping involves creating a custom miter. You don’t see it because the gap is filled ins with paint. There is ALWAYS a gap. Even with coping.
Good acting. You looked serious like you knew what you was doing, you moved quick and made enough sounds at the right time to make the story come alive lol
Neat rig for cabinet work, but I'll stick with coping my inside corners. The real drawback to mitered inside corners is the fact that you can "bow" your trim in on a cope so it's less likely to shrink back open. No matter how tight a miter, if the material shrinks the joint will open on the face, no matter how perfectly cut.
@johnbagewll2321 my reference was as in a cope, square stock should be butted in the corner. You may still have to "back" the ends if the corner is out of square, but in my 45 years experience, even glued miters will shrink back and open on the inside of the miter. As I said, he was right that the saw is a "game changer" for inside miters on small cabinets and boxes where inside miters are more common. But in my area, much interior trim is comprised of complex profiles and coping provides a better fit, given the quality (dimensional stability), of lumber today.
I agree, coping your inside miters is the mark of a professional. Fun fact for ya though... wood fibers shrink across their width, not length. The reason inside miters open is the trim piece gets thinner, not shorter.
@stevearttus8164 the cellular structure of wood shrinks in both directions, just not as pronounced in the length because most times a board is exponentially longer than it is thick. But my reference was to the shrinkage in the thickness, not in the length. But again, I always "bow" in both copes and miters in an attempt to load the trim so if it tries to shrink back (in thickness), the loaded tension will push the trim further into the corner, accommodating for the loss of thickness on both members. Conversely, the loaded tension on the coped joint causes the cope to bite tightly in the corner, concealing the joint.
It's new & different, that's for sure! Mitered inside corners are nearly always a pain to get just right because the walls never are! Coping makes it easier to get good joints consistently without so much fuss on imperfect walls. If it's paint grade & getting caulked it doesn't matter quite as much. I'm surprised that festool produced that tbh. Imagine setting up supports at 45° angles from the workstation for your long cuts. I don't see much use for that feature in my world, and it looks to me like a lot of small moving parts begging for trouble 😂
Just set up a support table for the other end if it's long. It's not complex. This also isn't the right way to do an inside joint. 45 it and hit it with a coping saw. Then you don't need to worry about the angle.
No joke! Looks perfect for mitering 16 inch pieces of trim though 😂. Might be great for custom cabinet work but I’d expect most cabinets to have pretty close to perfect 90°
Do sawhorses not exist I’m not an expert but it looks like the saw cuts the angle correctly and all you need is support to hold the long piece up or am I wrong
@@gondonmeddruxon It's baseboard, not a bathtub. You never ever have joints that are razor thin on MDF. It's not a "mistake". Anything more than 1/8" gap can be a mistake, but slight gaps are not a mistake at all. MDF installed has gaps, nail holes, and a nasty seam against textured drywall that is all finished up by caulking the joints. You don't just caulk to stop water. Maybe near a shower, it's something you think about as an afterthought, but it's not THE reason you caulk at all.
@@gondonmeddruxon Sounds great. Let m know how it goes when someone installs MDF trim with 1/32" miters but without caulking nail holes and matching the drywall texture profile by coping the trim. I would love to see the results. 😆
They aren't 45° because its not square.. probably a 47° and a 43° on the other side.. if you cut both at 45° they won't fit because the corner is not square..
@@thekingflea2199 that must be why all the corners in my house have open or otherwise sub-par miters, clearly no professional ever needs this…close enough isn’t always right.
@@thekingflea2199dude watch the video carefully, he show how off the angle before cutting, he aligned his square on the edge of the chop saw and it shows it’s not straight 45
Two things. Butt and run is standard on paint grade flat faced trim ( coping preferable to mitered inside corners otherwise). Secondly you need to support long stock usually in a long linear fashion on jobsite. Interesting specialty small parts cutting tool but would be useless on jobsite
That's a good point, but I just though if you turned the saw in the direction of the support that would easily solve that kinda problem. So maybe Festool should put a lazy Susan underneath the saw lol. I wanna know how it handles compound cuts if it can.
@@mrVoodoo82 Festool launched this now as battery powered. The corded version has been around for over a decade at least in Germany. I don't know about the US.
@@mrVoodoo82 The Festool SYM70 has been around for well over 20 years, my old one is dated 2002. Festool didn't copy Metabo lol All they have done is updated it to be battery powered. The person using it is doing a piss poor job, its actually meant for cabinet work , crown moulding small piece etc etc It is NOT meant for Skirting / Baseboards et ctec
I assume you mean hand coping with a coping saw? I wish I could do that but for some reason my skills with a coping saw have never risen above utter dookie. Never could get a cut even close to right no matter how many times I tried. It's why I didn't go into woodworking LOL
It could be a game changer, but unless a person modified the saw to his or her own liking, I can see that tiny fence being something of an annoyance for longer pieces.
He pushes the piece to make it fit and as he is lining them up at the end he is holding it in a way that makes it look flush. It's like a magic trick but only works on people that don't know how it works.
@@RazorReflectionzmark it and use a normal chop saw 💀 if you can’t pull a angle for a miter joint you should find a different career you’re not worth jack ‼️
@@RazorReflectionz Just not like him, because it turned out bad. People post videos on how best to do this all the time, and the result usually looks good. I don't get why people post demonstration videos that don't turn out right. If i did this whole video and it turned out like this, I'd redo it until it was right. If i couldn't get it, i wouldn't post. Why post something wrong?
Craftsman sold this years ago. It does have advantages but if you try to cut long pieces you have to clear alot more space around the work area and a miter stand will no longer support them. Good for small pieces though.
My stepfather was an old school carpenter, he said this. " Work smarter, not harder . Use a bow saw on one board trace the profile. You will never see the seam . This is the difference between a craftsman and a dumas." Good, Ole DAD. Thanks for your words of wisdom. RIP XOXO love you
@@jminkvihubybyou just lightly saw it so the you have an indention to follow on your cut. If ur good at it it's like a perforation for folding and tearing
NOT a game changer. A small 8" blade. Plastic cam locks for securing two very light gauge fences. Tiny work deck for the shortest of materials to be cut - longer pieces will require rigging up some extra support. The base is on four locking casters - there's no need to roll this tiny saw anywhere, just pick it up and move it. As someone that is a designer and builder, and has/uses all the best tools - this tool is a definite pass.
Issues I see. 1) Clearance. Can't cut tall base. 2) Seeningly no Bevel. Can't compensate for the bottom of the wall being out of square. Bottom of your miters will open on drywall walls. 3) how are you supposed to set up to cut trim that's 8ft+ long?? Try making that cut on a 15ft puece of trim witgout having to spend 5+ mins setting up supports and clamps. 4) Cant cut crown with it. This is a solution to a problem that never existed. Other tools already do this with less hassle at a 1/4 the cost.
@SMMeis buddy....this doesnt save time, a dial angle gauge costs 50 bucks, and if YOU were a carpenter you would know that you are supposed to cope inside corners 🙄
@@scrotymcboogerballs6452don’t know about America but Canada especially BC use ultralight MDF for all types of trim so you would never cope inside corners with that material only miter
@@scrotymcboogerballs6452 "you would know that you are supposed to cope inside corners 🙄" Coping is a legitimate method. But it is easy enough to do inside mitres with just a t-bevel, a tape (although a compass is easier) and basic math. Now you can just by an Digital Angle-finder, divide by 2, set the saw, cut...set and ans cut. Simple as. So dunno about that "supposed to." This saw is great though for Tracks/Apts with low trim. Quick and easy. Taller trim? Thinking not so much...stability on the fence, cut depth, etc.
I saw this recently, as well. It turns out it's an old idea that never hit it big. It would be great for short lengths such as picture frames and such. I had to throw out another dozen or so cucumbers, lol . Thanks for the video...ttyl
Don’t lift the blade until it stops, you destroy the blade and the work piece, and you can cause an accident . The guy who taught me finish carpentry would literally slap me if I would do what you did,with a waaay cheaper saw
@@dabj9546 the wood has tension inside, when you cut it, the tension is released. When you lift the blades while it’s still spinning, the teeth, which are wider than the blade itself, catch the piece of wood that most probably got tension released, moving slightly, pinching your blade. Sometimes if the tension is really big, it will throw your workpiece towards your face. In the same time your blade gets damaged : “the death of 1000 cuts” Each time you do this, very little gets damaged, making your work more and more inaccurate.
That doesn’t solve the problem with built up drywall corners. You are fitting to perfectly flat sides. I can see it being really nice for cabinets and picture frames and other “flat” applications.
