IS THIS THE BEST VALUE GARDEN BUILDING IN THE COUNTRY!? 

Its cheap for a reason, but cheap does not = great value. If it was a storage shed fine, but why spend all that money on windows and bifold doors if the structure is popsicle sticks. Looks like untreated C16 2x3s, no sheathing other than some thin ship lap, no proper headers. I'm from the states originally and learned to frame there where code would be a minimum 2x8 header for that bifold. The cladding doesn't look like its on counter battens which puts the structural studs at risk for rot. Barely any air gap between the floor and concrete pad which is also inviting rot. Doesn't even look like the minimum of 50mm. My current build is a bit bigger (about 500sq ft), but LESS fenestration on the front wall. I built with C24 2x4s 600OC, 11mm OSB sheathing under cladding/battens, and noggins and the engineer barely passed the racking calculations (we'll be adding internal walls eventually which will give us plenty of safety factor). This build definitely wouldn't pass the new Part L regs for insulation either. Even with 70mm Celotex in the walls and the 25mm air gap they want insulated drywall to pass. We had do do 90mm inbetween rafters and 90mm over rafter for the roof. We had to go 140mm cele and vapour barrier in the floor.

The rubber roof isn't even bonded! Few tacks around the facia with a 4x1 fixed to it. It's shit

For all the negatives out there, not everyone has 20 plus k to spend on a garden building, or would want to, yes there will be sacrifices with cheaper options like longevity etc but the guys happy, who cares, had an even cheaper version for 10 years now, still solid and watertight

Can’t believe the boy dared walk on the roof. Looks alright from a distance. More of a Lightweight shed than a garden room

Looks like 12mm or 16mm cladding, and base was crazy flimsy (3x2 studs best case and thin ply)... The shocker is how the main wall is holding those two windows, door and especially bifolds lol... Dont even want to get started on roof (rubber lining saved him but it will get damp being a cold roof - condensation). They put few 3x2s on sides and top of bifold

Check out how the shed looks a year on after several storms and the inside finished off 😊 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PEqx5exXNOo.htmlsi=IJ44BUOW-Bh_Lnhb

Thanks! Check out how the shed looks a year on after several storms and the inside finished off 😊 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PEqx5exXNOo.htmlsi=IJ44BUOW-Bh_Lnhb

amigo the best woods always will damage and can be repaired too, in this case, if I want to have a summer house absolutely pay a good price to not have any headaches in a couple of years

Check out how the shed looks a year on after several storms and the inside finished off 😊 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PEqx5exXNOo.htmlsi=IJ44BUOW-Bh_Lnhb

Yep hows that going to work if insulated with no ventilation behind the cladding? You get what you pay for!

@@DudeStuff it's only been one winter buddy. Trust me it's not going to last. This is coming from someone who does this for a living properly. I hope it does but it won't. Membrane and battons go together for a reason. Good luck to you though pal.

Fantastic to hear Sandie! 😊

Guys what's the dimension of the timber on the floor under the osb board. Need to know what clearance it has thanks.

​@@DudeStuff did you go for shiplap or something else?

it looks like shiplap, I think Log lap looks better for garden rooms, it also looks like untreated shiplap, you can buy pressure treated for not much more than untreated, other things i would consider changing, larger 3x2, or even 4x2 timbers for the frame, to allow for decent thickness of wall insulation, larger roof timbers, osb line the outside, then vapour barrier on that, then cladding on top of that. an alternative floor I've seen used and would consider is a single course of engineering brick with the frame built on this, recessed back the thickness of your exterior osb, dpm over concrete and lipped over brick, so it isolates the brick from the frame, insulation direct on the concrete to just top of brick, then floating floor on this, this does need a flat level concrete pad though. I'd probably also put a warm roof on,@@user-zs1mz6yr8l

Check out how the shed looks a year on after several storms and the inside finished off 😊 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PEqx5exXNOo.htmlsi=IJ44BUOW-Bh_Lnhb

Thanks Gareth probably will do that cheers

and use the proper edge trims, it's not hard to fit a rubber roof membrane to a pent roof correctly if you do your research, from the snapshot installation, my guess is that this was installed nothing like properly. The end supports between the floor panels, where the front and back panels meet in the centre, while needed to stop the floor sagging between the 'joists' at the sheet end is going to stop off the cross ventilation on that floor, possibly accelerating any rot through moisture build up, not much of a way around this when constructing such a large building in prefab sections and with sheet materials, .

That's what I've done. If you have 20+k to spend on one fair enough but I love mine so far.

Bro I pretty much live in my bivvy let alone a shed 👍🏻💪🏻✊🏻

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PEqx5exXNOo.htmlsi=IJ44BUOW-Bh_Lnhb

I agree for the most part. I don't however, agree with your use of "of" instead of "have"

Check out how the shed looks a year on after several storms and the inside finished off 😊 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PEqx5exXNOo.htmlsi=IJ44BUOW-Bh_Lnhb

The neighbours will love you I am sure, that building will be a noisy as hell.

+1 for the woodburner. -1 for the scrap wood though, unless you get on REALLY well with all your neighbours (and local council)!

or you can get a Tilley paraffin heater

I'd be pretty unhappy with having a next door neighbour with a wood burner going. Solar panels are what are needed for heating, and you CAN get rid of your scrap wood in ways other than in a wood burner

i think this is one of those get it up and make it look good for 6 months sort of jobbies, no adhesive, no structural support, no proper floor support ( those boards will sag over time between the runners and being sat on concrete can get wet over and over) , hopefully the wood is all treated but even then no ability for maintenance for protective reasons. 10k for it to last 5 years and done. insulation, fixtures and fitting will end this running near 18/20k all in. i built my workshop like a pole barn from solid oak 3m sleepers and scaffolding boards with the floor raised up and a large opaque purpose made plastic roof for less than 12k and it'll still be there when im dead because of the materials used. things might look good but in reality this is just a oversized cheap shed with a couple windows and doors.

Like how you can flip most fridge doors I mean, to open the other way….

That's why they were cheaper 🙈

Check out how the shed looks a year on after several storms and the inside finished off 😊 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PEqx5exXNOo.htmlsi=IJ44BUOW-Bh_Lnhb

is that 6x2 seated on the vertical studs or hung? sure will sag. Tyvek for an upgrade! Tyvek is standard. The dude walked on that roof as well! nuts. As a shed perhaps is ok but not a living space. A restrictor on the french doors should have been though of by installer.

The shed covers a large percentage of the base and has full guttering now into a 350 litre water tank it doesn't get that wet tbh. There's also a channel gap about an inch in front of the shed so no garden water runs down onto it

I can walk around the entire back of the shed no problem. Already painted the rear of shed in place

You're ok then