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I'm Hawaiian. Been surfing for almost 50 years. My people invented surfing and there is much more to life than surfing. The true meaning of life can be found in the Gospel of Jesus Christ. And yes I did enjoy this video and I probably enjoy surfing more than anyone on this planet. But please don't place surfing in the same realm as the meaning of life, which I feel truly is simply and utterly.....ALOHA.
@@coolbeans4399 Aloha my good neighbor. Come to Hawaii and I will take you to my favorite surf spots. Live Aloha my bruddah! Peaks in front of the Mauna Lani Hotel and Wailea bay and Lymans point are 3 of my favorite waves here on the Big Island. Mahalo and Aloha to you my friend.
This is why I love surfing. A wave travels thousands of miles & you get to ride it in its final moments. If you’re lucky, it’s peeling off left or right for the dream ride.
Try Sun Zal El Salvador. It’s a right point break, starts breaking over 1/4 mile from shore. There’s 5 perfect waves at a time; rides so looonng you have time to reassess you life.
I’m 29 and have been surfing since I was in my early teens. Start with a long board, it’s not as difficult or skill intensive as it seems but you will need to be prepared for a workout because you are gonna be paddling, hoping up, falling off and swimming against the current. You don’t need to be able to shred or do tricks to have fun and enjoy it. Just getting up, riding and dropping in on a wave like this is an amazing feeling, and It’s that feeling that I still chase almost 15 years later. Good luck 🤙🏽
@@Hatikvahh yeah I guess I’m just one of those people that gets cold easier than most and so even though I’ll surf in Coldwater and really have a good time. I honestly wouldn’t mind some warm water surfing just a pair of trunks once in a while.
I tried learning to surf in Tofino, Canada and it was a nightmare. so cold, struggling just to move in that thing, fighting the ocean, the wetsuit, the temps... awful lol tried again in Mexico and to be fair I had a few years of snowboarding under my belt by then but it was a whole different thing.
You might make millions but I bet he smiles way more. Edited: this comment is meant to be a look into the lives of those who live in the amazing places many wealthy surfers travel to, may we never take take take but always give give give when we go to others homes and take their waves that we traveled to. GIVE BACK. I’m a born and raised kaua’i boy. I’ve seen too many people move here and claim this place as home and act like they are from here. It’s so sad. Give back more then you take!!! Haoles are hated for a reason, don’t be the reason!
When he starts walking to the edge of the board it suddenly looked like he was walking on the water cause his board was white, that looked amazing.I also love surfing even though I don’t get to do it much.makes me feel free 🤟🏽
I lived close to beach my whole life. It will never take your problems away, but it will release the pressure. Only way to forget lifes problems is to fix everything you can and except all else. 💪
@@wesleyturner1979 Another nice thing is not having the other surfers being so greedy that they will never let you have your own wave as they drop in on you.
Big wedges that don’t crest have always been my favorites. You only find them in certain types of break zones, most notably river breaks where the estuary meets the ocean. Good times 👍🏼
Красиво! Какой кайф от жизни можно получать, чувствуя себя частью этой роскошной водной стихии! Молодость, тело, силы, возможности, океан - и все прекрасно! Удачи и счастья! ❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉
