This ADuM1200/1 series is new to me, and very interesting. Have experienced frustration, trying to dynamically switch the arrangement of battery cells with Mosfets, isolated from an MPU with a bunch of PC817s. A PC817 needs around 8ma on its base LED to switch quickly. So if you need, lets say, 24 of them, the power from the controller side becomes significant. Will send you an email.
I first saw the digital isolators in 2018 when I had to use them on the job to communicate between boards where one was coming from the unknown world and they worked great so I had to get some for the workbench. Took me a while.
Shoulda added an analog optocoupler or two! I plan on getting or making one of those for an audio isolator, in order to mess about with HV microphones without destroying my computer or external sound card or other ADC. The most common ones I’ve seen have two phototransistors in one package one on each side of the isolation barrier, fed by the same LED. You use an op-amp for negative feedback to make the output signal voltage of the phototransistor (the one on the same side of the LED) is equal to the input signal voltage, and assume that the two phototransistors will behave identically. Or maybe they use photodiodes, I can’t remember. You can also use two normal optos, and hand-match them with a scope and some patience. Then there are special cases like the H11M1(?) photoFET, which use a JFET as the phototransistor, which should be somewhat linear in their operation. These can also be used as floating voltage controlled resistors, much like a vactrol, in the feedback loop of an op-amp in order to make a voltage controlled amplifier or filter. Kinda pricy though.
isolating analog sounds good, I’ve been meaning to try some little experiments sending audio over in LED to photo transistor or photo resistor or solar cell or photo diode for some experimentation, although not necessarily expecting hi-fi results just playing around.
Nice board, but the isolation gap is a bit small for if you plan to connect to a mains supply via the relay. Just your arduino fuse programmer to un brick an attiny85,worked a treat.
The one thing limiting the gap size for the two grounds is the 5 V isolation module with its pins so close together. would you say it would be adequate to make sure the relay contact pins have a big enough isolation gap from the ground plane around those pins, or is there still a risk such as within the relay itself somehow creating a path over to the relay coil and into the rest of the board? yeah having a way to fix the attiny fuses was definitely worth a pcb project. Saved me many times.
@@GadgetReboot Try and find a copy of EN60950-1 on the web, or EN61010 they wil give great insight in to how to provide an isolation gap. it's always good to know what size of gap or slot to aim for.
@@GadgetReboot The idea is to make the isolation gap as wide as possible, yes it would be too narrow at the DC-DC module, but it's less risk. I seriously doubt that DC-DC module is actually rated for 1.5kV isolation, not with that pin out. I would have chosen a module with a different pin out.
although the relay contacts isolate the load, the relay coil could also possibly create some disturbance when switching so keeping it isolated would help keep noise out of the control side.
You don't have to tell me about isolation because I was powering my laptop from the cigarette lighter through a cheap ebay converter, and when I plugged it into my Arduino EFI it caught fire - lol -.
Nice bro keep it up, Mai bhi experiment video bnta hu bhaut mehnt krta hu ekdm hard video bnya aap ek bar jrur dekhy aor plz bhaiya ya chhoty bhai ko spot kijiy hmary channel ko subcrib jrur kijiy
