I recently purchased a one owner 2002 Isuzu trooper we're just under 100,000 MI. The transmission went out it cost me $3,400 to have it rebuilt. That's $1,000 more than I paid for the truck. I'm hoping it was worth it otherwise aesthetically the truck is in mint condition. And I'm always happy to see hacks on how to keep it up myself
I've dealt with this problem for years in my Isuzu 3.2's. Go to Harbor freight, get some cheap round brushes like he had, get one of those flexible "Picker-upper" claw tools, cut and remove the claw button and internal claw mechanism, (Cut the coiled tube just above the wide part at the bottom of the tool). Then take one of your brushes that will best fit inside the claw tool tube, cut the ring (Handle) off your brush, shove the wire of the brush up the end of the claw tool casing and crimp the casing like you would crimp a terminal on to an electrical wire. That will hold the brush in place. Get some full-strength Lucasoil fuel system cleaner and pour some full strength on your brush and down both of the tubes the EGR valve motor sits on. The new, flexible longer brush tool you just made will completely go through the entire length of both tubes and come out the other end. The fuel cleaner will clean out all the gunk and dissolve any residue (Brake cleaner will also work). Blow out the tubes with air when done and you shouldn't have to ever deal with that problem again unless you drive the thing another 100k miles.
Thanks you have been so helpful. I have a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo with a 3.2 v6. I had the same code. Changed my EGR same problem. I cleaned that EGR tube with a cylindrical wire brush and carb cleaner. I also cleaned up the front small hole. Blew compressor air through it. Check engine light is now finally off. And car runs better too. Thanks
Great to know about the tube have been cleaning out my egr on my trooper about every 6 months and had the exhaust tube blocked so bad I ran a old speedometer cable down it to get it unblocked I will have to clean out the intake side next
Great video! Is this what is meant by cleaning the EGR tube "through the valley?" I'm thinking it must be. Also, slight recommend: the code is P0401 and no PO 401, youtube will mess up the way this is searched. Took me a while to find!
thanx so much for that. i knew to clean the other one that goes down to the exhaust but i didn’t know about this. i will probably just go ahead and take it off and clean the tube out the same way just in case. thanks!
Been working on my VX, same engine, no codes, but I’m gonna clean mine for maintenance! Just did a transmission service, gear select oil seal, pan gaskets, filter etc. Tinkering with the TOD check light, rarely have issues, but lately it’s the TOD check light. Lol
I'm on my 3rd EGR valve from a chronic p401 Error code........ don't know why I haven't seen this video before, but I'm going to try what you said. Though I can only take my EGR valve off I'm going to try and dump solvent into the intake EGR side to clean it out....... Thanks.
Paul Roberts YES, I didn’t remove the throttle body. Used air compressor, to remove blockage. No code first time in 10+ years. Thank you from the bottom of my heart.
Around the 2:57 mark you show the tube inside the upper engine and it has a metal seal of some sort that reduces the opening to a pinhole, but then a minute later when you use a wire brush, the seal is gone giving enough room to put the brush inside it.... how did you remove the seal?
It has no seal that was carbon build up. I simply used a pick and any other tool I could get in there to remove the carbon. Eventually I was able to get the brush in there to clean the tube more thoroughly. Thanks for the question!
WOW, okay so I cleaned mine real nice a few months ago and the CEL came on this week for the EGR again. Mine looked exactly like yours, with a pinhole opening. I remember tapping it and thinking it must be a metal seal, but now you confirm it's not and I also found this video where someone took the manifold out and really shows you what it looks like clean: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u1ZuAspcrjg.html (right at the 2:50 mark). Guess I have a weekend of cleaning coming up! Thanks for the video
In my case I needed to remove the intake manifold because it was extremely clogged up. You could probably get by a short time by ramming something like a coat hangar to make sure its unclogged but you just cant see in there without removing the intake manifold. Spray may or may not work depending how clogged it is. Thanks for the excellent question.
And I have a 2000 a Zouzou trooper with the PO 401 code and I’m just worried about putting the carb cleaner in there is that gonna do I need to protect it from getting into the manifold or can I just put it in there and that will I guess burn off?
Want to know the REAL fix? Fabricate a thin metal plate using EGR gasket as a template having only holes for mounting bolts - block exhaust gas ports. Install between EGR valve and EGR manifold base. Clear codes and drive. Sometimes 2nd problem crops up with ECM code saying unable to sense EGR pintle position. If you have this issue replace EGR valve (still use blanking plate.) The pintle is constantly being moved up and down by solenoid controlled by ECM. The pintle actuates a potentiometer (a variable resistor controlling voltage to ECM to indicate pintle position.) Constant motion of potentiometer wears it out - resistive substrate inside of EGR cannot be repaired (I've tried - easier to buy new valve.) Doing what I've said here will have engine run much much better and better gas mileage with increased Hp. This trick will not work on vehicles using additional exhaust gas feedback methods such newer Ford's etc. Newer vehicles use secondary monitoring systems that will trigger buy a new car light (cel). Hope this helps people out - my typing finger get'n sore Lol!
I have the 2003 Isuzu trooper and I am trying to fix it but it's we put a diagnostic thing on it it tells us what it needs done but you can't fix it without a code in addition to this
