Alec, just wanted to let you know I've spent the whole Corona Lockdown watching Tech Tips and I can't believe how much I've learned! I've been putting my kit together, and when I have a question I think 'I wonder if Alec has a video about mouthpieces'.. and there it is! You are much appreciated my friend.. I hope I can get up there to meet you one day!
I learn so much watching your tech tips. As a newly certified scuba diver I have so much to learn and I'm learning a lot here. Thanks! You are teaching me good "stuff".
It is a rare thing (especially on RU-vid) for someone to a) know what he is talking about, b) is able to present the information in an engaging way, and c) the video guy knows how to get a clear shot, including audio. This video is a 10/10 and an example of excellence. Bravo! And of course, what we are all here for, an excellent demonstration of how to take care of my equipment. Thank you Alec!
Why thank you very much Dave. I work hard to be informative and entertain and Kevin just hang around complaining about video quality, lighting, sound, etc, etc, you know, trivial things!
Alec's videos are just great!!! This was all the information I needed to take care of my gear. The more expensive your gear, the more expensive the service. This video can potentially save all of us lots of $$$.
This is a very good video, thanks! I did not had any explanation on how and why I needed to rinse the regulator when I started scuba diving 3 years ago. Learned a few things with this video and will explain then to other novice divers! Greetings from Portugal!
Hey Alec... I have my Dacor Olympic regulator since the late 70's and learned how to service it. My very own method has worked for me. You know that even if you are extra careful to install the dust cap eventually the regulator will corrode internally. What I do is when I'm back at home is to force clean water through the first and second stages a couple of times and finish it off with silicone spray. I fill up the tank valve exit hole with water, install the regulator, open air pressure and let the water rinse it internally. I repeat this a couple of times, then I finish it off replacing the water with food grade silicone. This has worked for me. At the same time my tank valve is lubricated for storage.
I'm hoping you dive in warm water only Carlos. While your cleaning method is unusual, there's no reason why it won't work. I might suggest you buy a bottle of distilled water rather than just using tap water. The minerals in tap water could mess with the parts inside. However, if it works, go for it. Divers in cold water - DO NOT DO THIS! And by cold water I mean anything less than 45 degrees (7 Celcius). If you have any water moisture inside the 1st stage the reg could freeze. Flushing with silicon does not guarantee all the water is gone. Take care. Alec
This is the most thorough explanation and demo of post dive gear care I've ever seen. Bravo. I'd be surprised if this doesn't save me at least a couple hundred bucks over the next year.
Thanks for the video. I am getting my first regulator end of this month. Really appreciate this video. Looking forward to more of your videos Peace & Happy Diving.
Alec, everything you talk about and demonstrate on this video is the stuff I was taught back in 1973 and do religiously. I agree about dust caps, but if I run into one of those supposed modern ones that are "water traps" I dribble fresh water on them and blow the excess out with compressed air from the tank while on site, ensuring that my thumb is covering the 1st stage tank nipple. Warm water and a good active/agitated soaking are the key to reg service longevity as you've shown. I physically manipulate all conectors (BCD, quick connects, etc.) and venturi vanes as well. I despise hose protectors for the very reasons you talk about. Thanks for getting this out there to the new kids.
Right on Russell. I've suggested filling the hole on 'modern' dust caps with silicon sealant but it's easier to just buy an old style for a couple of bucks. Alec
Thank you Alec, I just bought my 1st set of gear today. Now, I know how to take care of everything properly (between this & your other videos). BTW, I came across your Sea Hunt website about 2 years ago but had no idea you were one and the same until this year! Very neat collection.
Thanks Alec’s for all your videos. They’ve exceptionally helpful. The maintenance stuff is really practical. Us Kiwi girls like DIY & I’ve brought some good dive gear so I want to keep it in top shape. Don’t want equipment failures while under the water😱 PS. I like your sense of humor it makes the videos fun to watch
Thank you Sarah. Us colonials get our sense of humor from the British. Some like it; some don't. I like to think that some get it; some don't. Take care. Alec
Well, Melita (nice name!), I sure don't know everything. The older I get the more I find that I don't know. But I do know a lot about scuba diving and hope I can help others by sharing the mistakes I've made. Thanks very much for watching. Alec
The importance of rinsing cannot be said enough. Especially since scuba gear is a huge investment. On my upcoming trip this summer I'm booked for 12 dives. Alec, would it be okay to wait till I fly back home to rinse the gear? Big fan love your videos.
Hi Alec, After 32 years have just been told by my LDS to go out and buy a new 1st Stage :( . My dive instructor spent nearly as much time on teaching us how to look after our gear as on how to do repetitive dives on tables (BSAC) So it was great to see your video - just reinforces habits learnt many years ago. My current LDS thinks I'm a dinosaur.... Seahornet 1st Stage and Conshelf SEII Reg.... WHAT NO VENTURI ADJUSTMENT !!! how do you cope.....
Informative videos! How ever Every thing you said is in the owners manual, well at least on my regs they were. Except mine also says don't purge while submerged and un-pressurised. So really there isn't any reason why any one should have grotty regs except for normal bash marks and discoloration of the plastics etc? Keep up the good work!
Usually just laziness. We are so used to ignoring maintenance that we simply don't think it's important. When is your next car oil change due? When you put on your winter tires, do you make sure they are rotated properly? (for northern divers only) How often do you change your wiper blades? (for southern divers mainly) It's all in the book. Take care. Alec
Hi Alec great informative videos as a newly qualified diver I thank you thank you as your vast knowledge and experience is invaluable to me one thing I would like to see is a video showing the complete equipment list you should buy as a new diver wishing to purchase their own kit for warm and cold water diving. would you consider it as a future tech tip? Keep up the great work. your buddy from across the pond in the UK Col
+Jeff Greenfield It's a problem Jeff. There's no easy answer to this one. There's no special dust cap for DIN. You simply have to be very careful to ensure there is no dirt or water in the cap before replacing it. I have suggested to some divers and for myself to keep the DIN regulator dust cap clean and dry on the boat rather than having it tied to the regulator all the time as is most common. You certainly don't need it underwater so keep it in a plastic bag on the boat/shore. When you surface, remove the reg and then put your dry dust cap on. Todd here at Scuba 2000 has a novel method that might work for you. He removes his tank valve DIN cap (insert) and screws it into his regulator DIN dust cap. It's a perfect, snug fit and neither can get contaminated!! Whether you leave this assembly on the regulator or on the boat is up to you. I hope this helps. Alec
You said ""Pushed all the buttons" when you took the regulator out of the sink, might that not confuse people making them press the purge button on the 2nd stages?
+Alec Peirce No problem! Love your videos. Might as well ask, do you think it is worthwhile for someone who only goes diving 1-2 times a year to buy a full regulator set? I assume it would be necessary to have them undergo maintenance between each trip
First, thanks for all the tech tips! Can you show examples in a future video (or at least describe it) of a good dust cap for a DIN first stage? You gave great examples of good and bad dust caps for yoke valves but, assuming we get all the water out of the cap, are there DIN caps which are still not good? My DIN cap just pushes on. Would something which threads on be better?
Hi Alec, really enjoying the videos. When not in use and storing a second stage reg with the inhalation adjustment, is it best to have the +/- knob open, closed or somewhere in the middle? Thanks!
Dear Mr. Peirce, this may well be an asinine question but I'm going to ask it anyway. If you had one of those poorly designed dust caps could you fill the majority of the cavity with a non-toxic silicone so that you could create a dust seal while minimizing the chance of water getting in the first stage?
Hi Alec first of all sincere thanks for your videos. My instructor told us to never dunk first stage under water for rinsing even if it has dust cap on. If I saw correctly you dunked the whole first stage under water. I have DIN is it okay to dunk the whole first stage in leave it there for some time and then give it a quick shake under water ? Sorry to ask but I'm new and wanna get it right Thanks :)
Alec, Thanks to you and Kevin for the fantastic videos. Have you ever heard of or used a product called Salt Away or Salt Terminator by CRC? I use it on boat and watercraft all the time. Your thoughts? Thanks.
We sell a similar product in the store but to be honest, I've never used it. I usually just soak my gear and then rinse well at the end of a week of diving. However, I understand it works well so go for it. Thanks for watching. Alec
In fact only by soaking a reg or other peice of gear in water will dissolve and rinse away the salt. If it's warm water it's much faster. Thanks for watching. Alec
I just received my Zeo with the fdxi first stage and I love it! Light breathing and so comfotable.. Do you know why oceanic does not fit the first stage with the little red piston, the DVT system any more? Not even Oceanic Germany can tell me why they changed. Do you have an idea?
Yes I do. The DVT was a good idea. Unfortunately in practice it was less than perfect. For those who don't know what a DVT is let me explain that it's a plastic plug on the inside of the regulator which plugs the air inlet hole when the reg is detached. It is designed to stop any water or dirt from getting into the regulator - sort of an automatic dust cap. When the reg is attached and the air is turned on, the air pressure pushes the plug out of the way and the reg works. When the reg is detached, a small spring pushed the plug against the hole and keeps water out of the reg. Unfortunately, if you do not COMPLETELY purge the regulator of air before detaching it from the tank (and this often happens) the remaining air pressure in the reg will force the DVT plug into the hole tightly. It can even twist it and plug the hole permanently. The next time you use the reg, no air will enter it from the tank OR the broken plug will partially plug the hole. So Oceanic dropped it. They did try to fix it but depending on divers to always purge properly was too unlikely. It's gone. You'll have to be a careful diver and follow my guidelines on removing and rinsing a regulator like all the rest of us divers. I'm glad you like the ZEO though. I use it and quite love it too. Thanks for watching. Alec
"...if you do not COMPLETELY purge the regulator of air before detaching it from the tank (and this often happens) the remaining air pressure in the reg will force the DVT plug into the hole tightly. It can even twist it and plug the hole permanently." Alec, I have a new (less than 1 year old) Aqua~Lung Legend LX Supreme, and the first stage has a device similar to this DVT, which Aqua~Lung calls an ACD (auto-closure device). Have you heard of the same kind of issue occurring with Legend first stages if they're removed without fully purging the system?
There's a U-Tube vid from Aqualung that shows very clearly how their ACD works . If you watch it you will see that the AQ auto-closure valve that seals the reg, is opened by the action of tightening the reg onto the tank valve. That is, unlike the Oceanic version which relies on air pressure to open the valve , the ACD is opened by the act of attaching the reg to the valve - a mechanical act. It will NOT suffer from the same problem as the Oceanic. However, it is a somewhat more complicated system requiring more parts, careful installation and regular maintenance, particularly since it is dynamic - it has several metal parts, O-Rings and it moves. How it will stand the rigors of scuba and the normally lax attitude of scuba divers will decide how it stands up over time. As with the Oceanic wherein you could carefully press on the red button and see that is moves, you ought to be able to press on the ACD and see that it moves slightly. Use a rubber pencil end. And, as with the Oceanic, if the reg is removed from the valve before ALL the air is released from the reg, the remaining internal air pressure will force the ACD to close tightly. I'm not sure how that is an issue but we'll see. It doesn't appear that the ACD can jam shut. On the topic of removing the regulator from the tank after a dive, you may have noticed that it takes several seconds to completely purge the air from a reg. That's mainly because of the HP hose. The HP hose has a severe restriction on the reg end. Look at the end of the hose and you'll see that the opening is very small. If you look into the HP port of a reg, you'll also see that the hole letting high pressure air out of the HP port is very small as well. These restrictive orifices are there to prevent the hose from whipping around if it breaks. Thinks about a water hose end. At one time it was a problem and if the HP hose broke the diver had to duck or get whacked by the hose! That can't happen now because high pressure air can only flow very slowly from the HP port and into the HP hose. They both have restrictions. Of course, that also means the air in the HP hose can only come out slowly. You must hold the purge button until NO air can be heard and/or the SPG reads zero! Good question. Hope this helps. Alec
Cry!! It happens to every diver eventually. The first question is, salt water or fresh water? If it's salt water, then immerse it, cap off, in clean, fresh water for a few minutes. Put it onto a tank and breathe through it for a few minutes. That will blow the salt and salt water through the reg and out the 2nd stage. Then you need to dry it and the quickest way is to put it on a tank and breath through it. The dry, clean air will soon have it completely dry inside. Also, breathe through the Safe Second hose to get the water out of that hose. You also need to get the water out of the BCD LP hose which is best done by removing the Schrader valve inside the end. It's a standard bicycle-type valve that you can take out with any $5 valve core remover tool. Turn the air off first, remove the Schrader valve and turn the air back on for 30 seconds. I did a video on that process a while ago. The biggest problem is the HP hose to your SPG or computer. You must get it dry or the water will ruin the gauge or computer. They cannot be repaired. So, if you have a Quick-Disconnect hose fitting for your computer, you can push down on the center pin on the inside on the end of the QD while someone turns the air on verrrry slowly. Air will hiss out of the hose. You may have to do this several times as you cannot hold that pin down against all the pressure for more than a second or two. If you do NOT have a QD, then you need to remove the head of the SPG or remove the computer. That takes 2 wrenches and some care. I did a video on that some time ago too. With the head off you can turn on the air to blow out the hose. The swivel pin will come out too. Don't lose it. Or you can pay a dive service center $25 to do all this for you. They will probably recommend a complete service but unless your reg is due for one, that's not really necessary. Good luck. Alec
Thank you so much Alec for sharing your passion and experience with us! I am new to scubadiving and all your tips are really valuable. Do you recommend the oceanic zeo regulator?
I always hesitate to recommend a regulator. It's such a personal thing that divers become rabidly loyal to a brand when in reality, there's very little difference between them. Think Toyota/Honda/Hyundai/Kia/etc. If you choose a basic reg (non-balanced piston), almost every brand is identical in design, parts and performance. The Scubapro MK2, Oceanic SP5, older Sherwood Brut and so on, are the same. If you choose a more sophisticated regulator (balanced, sealed, swivel, etc), again they are almost all the same. The Sherwood SR2, Scubapro MK25, Oceanic ZEO, etc, are again almost the same. The lesser known brands (Zeagle, Apeks, Atomic, etc) are virtual copies of these regulators despite what the advertising and loyal divers will tell you. I've used them all - literally, them all, including many brands that don't exist anymore. I really like the Scubapro MK 25 and used it for quite a while but the Sherwood SR2 is identical with a better seal design and free parts. I used it for a couple of years and loved it too. I travel now for most of my diving and light weight is critical. Not wanting to pay $1500 for a Titanium regulator identical to the same model at $700 (Titanium corrodes by the way), I chose the Oceanic ZEO and have used it for 2 years on 5 extended dive trips. I love it. The ZEO is very light, compact, looks good, easy and cheap to service, beautiful breathing and a competitive price. The small, light second stage combinbed with the standard flex hose and swivel makes it a joy to use - no jaw fatigue and no tugging or pushing out of my mouth. It has simple breathing adjustment and an easy to use venturi. The first stage is super small and light, and is sealed against salt water and/or ice. So, to answer your question, I suggest you try it. I've certainly not found any faults at all. When you finish a nice, long scuba dive and realize that you didn't think about your regulator at any time through the dive, you know it's a good one. Alec
Hi Alec, is there a problem using a first stage ( like oceanic fdxi) with an bc Inflator from a different brand (i think about buying the mares quantum bcd). Thanks in advance. PS I love your vintage series. Greetings from Germany
One nice thing about scuba gear is that it's pretty much completely interchangeable, almost too much so. I have seen a Mares 1st stage with a Aqualung 2nd stage, an old Dacor octopus, an Oceanic console, an LP hose for a Zeagle BC and another LP hose for a Bare drysuit. It's confusing as heck for a serviceman! So, to your question, yes. Any normal scuba attachment will fit into any normal scuba 1st stage. All of the ports are 5/16" for the LP (low pressure) and 3/8" for the HP (other than the old 1/2" ports that Dacor and USD used for a short while). All LP hose have a matching 5/16" thread and HP hoses are 3/8". So, go crazy. Mix 'em up!! Of course, in Germany you also have to contend with metric but that's only an issue if you're using a European regulator - Poseidon, etc. I have adapters to make anything fit anything!! Thanks for watching. Alec
I’ve heard people say we should be soaking our regs under pressure to keep moisture out of the hoses and 1st stage. Is that the ideal way, or is it overkill?
Hi Alec, thank you for all your informative videos! You are the best! Question: what is the best way to hang a Yoke system regulator dry? Can you hang it?
It's best to hang the 1st stage on a hook through the yoke hole. There is no hose stress and everything hangs down, no loops. Thanks for watching Jason.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Hi Alec, another question, do you ever use disinfectant solutions when cleaning your gears, regs. and bcds? If so every time after each dive? Or is that overkill? I found a disinfectant from Désinfectant matériel de plongee SEPTIONE MATERIEL ABYSSNAUT. Thank you Alec!
Great video, recently are collecting information if rinse a reg. Let's say I went for a dive trip using a double hose for a week or two weeks so, it is really hard to prevent water go into the can(first stage) Am I ALLOW to rinse the first stage with the all the mechanism with fresh water to clean up the salt water and then leave the can open to let it dry out? Thank you
Most experienced double hose divers ensure their regs stay in good shape by using a simple process that's not 'in the books'. 1. After several dives and before storage, always loosen the hose clamps. 2. Occasionally remove the hoses carefully and rinse them thoroughly in fresh water. Run the water through the hose and mouthpiece by pouring it into the intake hose and out of the exhaust hose. If you do this before removing the exhaust hose from the body, you also rinse the exhaust valve (Duckbill or other). Block the intake spigot on the body while doing this. 3. Always hang the regulator by the 1st stage with the hoses dangling both while rinsing and while in storage so no water goes into the body. The answer to your question is NO! You must endeavor to prevent any water, even fresh water from entering the body. If salt water gets into the regulator, it will need to be disassembled and cleaned properly. Almost every piece in there will corrode very quickly if exposed to salt water. And some parts are plain or plated steel which will also corrode in fresh water. It's not really hard to keep water out of the can. Always be sure a good dust cap is in place when it's off the valve. Be sure the dust cap is clean and dry before fitting it. When you take the reg off of the valve, let the hoses hang and keep the can high. Bottom line - keep it dry and service it regularly. Take care. Alec
Would it make any sense to depress the second stage purge button and swivel it around a bit in the water too (with the first out/higher of the water). Presumably there are some bits and bobs associated with it that could use a rinse too? I have access to a tank to blow out the hoses/second afterwards.
Purging does open the exhaust mushroom valve but you never know if its 100% open or just part without a physical check around the entire valve. Would not hurt. A
Hi Alec, thanks so much for all your videos. I'm new to diving and I've watched hours of them. Very helpful! I just bought my wife and I new Oceanic Zeo DIN style regs. We dove with them yesterday and just as you said, the dust cap filled with sea water. I did my best on the boat to blow it out/dry it by mouth, but, it wasn't perfect. My instructor said don't worry about it, those small drops won't get in the reg. But, based on your videos I don't like that logic. Is there a good dust cap for DIN regulators or a better solution? As always, thanks!
Look in the Trident Dive catalog or the Innovative Scuba catalog. Your LDS can order one. Scubapro has a good one too but it isn't on all of their regs. You simply have to look around until you find one. Someone suggested filling the cap with silicone sealant. Not a bad idea. Good luck with your new reg. I'm sure you love it. Alec
thoughts on spraying down a pressurized reg connected to a scuba tank instead within 2 hrs after a dive with a garden hose gun? I do this religiously instead of a soak. Gently into the mouth pieces, and also hove out the hose protectors.
Spraying down with a hose while still on the tank is excellent. Fresh salty water comes right off; no chance of water in the 1st stage; gets well into the 2nd - all good. And under the hose protectors too! Good job. A hose is not usually available for most dives. If the reg sits for more than 1 hour, you will need to brush or soak because once the salt dries it will not just rinse off. Good idea. Thanks. Alec
I find leaving everything connected but seal them in a thick freezer size zip loc bag and squeeze the air out. Removing hoses just to store them actually puts more wear on the o-rings with the off/on twisting and if the 1st stage ports are not closed with a port plug can introduce air contaminates (or spiders). Hope this helps.
Alec, A dive instructor once told me that I should never submerse regulators if the 1st stage is not connected to a tank. He said that the water could travel from the 2nd stage to the 1st stage through the hoses. Obviously, you are not concerned with that. Can you explain how water will not enter the 1st stage when you submerse all your gear? Thanks.
Alec, can you please clarify... I thought pressing the purge valve was a good thing to do when rinsing the 2nd stage regulator. Should I not do this? I've only done it once so far on my new reg setup so I'm hoping it didn't cause issues or get water into my 1st stage. I had my 'water' cap on the 1st stage and let it soak for 30 minutes like you suggested, then later on rinsed water through the 2nd stage and my octo as well as pressed the purge button a handful of times on each 2nd stage. Is this a bad practice? Looking forward to your response! Thanks again!
If the dust cap is firmly in place when rinsing a regulator and you do NOT press the purge button, water cannot enter the inside of the regulator. The purge button opens the valve in the second stage so that air can come in from the hose attached to the first stage. If the regulator is on the tank and under pressure when you press the purge button, air comes down the hose and out the mouthpiece. But, if there is no air pressure in the first stage and thus the hose, when you press the purge while under water (as while rinsing it) water can go up the hose and into the first stage - not good! Do NOT press the purge button while rinsing.
Water can only enter the first stage in one of two ways. It can get in through the main air hole on the first stage. If the dust cap is properly in place, as it ought to be at all times when the reg is off the tank, water cannot get in that way. And it could potentially travel up a hose. Let's look at the hoses. Normally you have 4 hoses - the HP SPG, the LP BCD Inflator and the two second stages. The SPG end is sealed - no water. The LP BCD Inflator end is sealed - no water. The second stage valve is held shut by a spring-loaded silicon seal. Normally no water can get past that valve because it's held closed by the spring. So, you can safely rinse your gear in fresh water after a dive, even off the tank, provided the dust cap is properly in place on the first stage. And that's the way divers rinse their gear. That's the proper way to rinse your gear according to your owner's manual. However, when you depress the purge button on the the face of the regulator second stage, you override the spring-loaded seat and open the valve. That's how you get a blast of air to clear the regulator when it's on the tank and the air is turned on. When the regulator is NOT on the tank and you depress the purge button, water could theoretically go past the silicon seat, travel up the hose and enter the first stage. That's why your instructor, and all instructors myself included, have been telling divers for years "Don't press the purge when rinsing your regulator!" However, experience, technical know-how and common sense if you look at and think about the situation will tell you that there's no reason for water to travel up the hose. In fact, there's every reason for it not to! Water travels as a result of gravity or pressure. In this case, the hose is full of air and that air is unable to move towards the first stage because the first stage is sealed. The air can't get out so it stays in the hose. If the hose is open to the water at the second stage end (by pressing the purge button while it's in water), no water will travel up the hose. The air in the hose is not going anywhere so the water would have to compress the air to get to the first stage. The LP hoses are typically 27" long. For the water at the open end, the second stage end, to reach the 15" mark inside the hose, it would require a pressure of 15psi (1 atmosphere) to compress the air. That's 15psi to get 1/2 way. It will never reach the first stage. It would require a pressure of several hundred psi to compress the air in the hose enough to let the water reach the first stage. Simple Boyle's Law. So, unless your instructor (and I'm not picking on him - we're all in this together) can explain how the air in the hose compresses enough to let the water get all the way up the hose to the first stage, it won't happen.
That would be too high a concentration of bleach for general cleaning and may corrode the silicone. Try something less corrosive like what you would clean a coffee pot with and be comfortable drinking from it afterwards.
Speaking of rinsing Alec, my question is. Is it normal for the dive store to soak the 2nd stages in a lemon antibacterial wash even though they scored my regs 1st and 2nd 9 out of 10 on internal cleanliness. But I took them for service and now they taste fowl, they say it's harmless. What are your thoughts? Nice advice and video btw and what did you do you your head :)
Definitely not normal! I don't know if it's good or bad but, it's not normal. We do dip our rental and training regs in a sterilizing solution and then in fresh water to get rid of the smell. Harmless or not, I wouldn't like my regs coming back smelling or tasting odd. Alec
No water inside the first stage is good for many reasons, even fresh 'pool' water has lots of chemicals. Is it destroyed no, not unless it sits for years. Do get it serviced after your next dive trip (?) or within a year to ensure it serves you for many years.
I am a little bit confused right now. When you put the whole reg in the sink, water does not go inside it? You put the dust cap so water does not go in, but what about all the other holes? Both of your second stages The connector of the LP hose that you connect to your BDC The holes in a balanced piston 1 stage The connector of the HP hose that you connect to the computer/pressure gauge I started scuba diving last year, and this videos are super useful. I still have to learn a lot. At the end of a dive I open the scuba tank so that there is pressure in the sistem, and I rinse everything with fresh water. Then I take it apart and pack it. Then I rinse the wetsuit, googles, fins, etc. And I rinse again the diving computer and the flashlight. Am I doing it wrong?
"I am a little bit confused right now. When you put the whole reg in the sink, water does not go inside it?" Water will get inside the second stage, which is necessary for rinsing out the salt deposits left from diving. But water will not go up the hoses and into the internals of the first stage if the dust cap is snuggly in place. To see how that works, take a drinking straw and put your finger over one end of it, then put the other end into a glass of liquid. Note how the liquid doesn't fill the straw to the level outside the straw. Then take away your finger, and see the liquid rush into the straw. The same principle is at work when you rinse you regulators.
Nope Brian. You're doing far more than most divers and everything is correct. While it's fine, there's not really any need to go to the trouble of pressurizing the reg while rinsing it. And it must be a nuisance! Let me explain each of your concerns. 1. the second stages are full of water almost all the time. Water goes in and out of the exhaust and the mouthpiece whenever it's not in your mouth and that's OK. The water cannot get past the second stage valve and thus up the hose because that valve is held closed by 150 psi of air from the first. Even when rinsing, that valve is held closed by a spring - unless you hold the purge button down while rinsing. The purge button depresses the spring and opens the second stage valve to let air through, thus 'purging' water from the second. If you press the purge while rinsing (off the tank), the valve opens but without any air pressure from the first stage, water could conceivably go up the hose and into the first stage. I dealt with this topic although quickly, in a vid some time ago. Although every scuba instructor tells their new divers to "never press the purge button while rinsing your reg", it's not really a big deal. If you can picture the hose as a closed system, a long closed tube if you like, and then you open one end (the second stage end by pressing the purge button) while it's being rinsed, while water may travel past the second stage valve and start to go up the hose, Boyle's Law soon stops it. The water is stopped by the atmospheric pressure of the air in the hose. There's no pressure while rinsing so there is nothing to force the water up the hose against the air that is already in there. Water will NOT go up the hose if the purge is pressed during a normal rinse. My apologies to all those instructors! So don't worry about the second stages. 2.The LP connector, whether a BCD or Drysuit hose, is sealed by a Schrader valve, the same valve that's in a tire valve. This valve is spring loaded and requires considerable pressure to open. Normal rinsing won't open it and even if it did, the same principle I just explained for the reg hose applies. No water would travel up it. In fact, you ought to rinse that hose end with fresh water and then blow into the hose end with your mouth to dry that little valve. Also don't forget to rinse the connector by pulling it back and spinning it while in the rinse water. The connector end works with the help of 3 tiny steel balls, a spring and a clip, all of which can corrode. 3. The holes in the first stage of every regulator, balanced piston or not, (every regulator has holes to allow the first stage to sense the water pressure - except for those very few regulators that are sealed) always have water in them as well. The chamber into which that water enters through those holes is designed to seal the water out of the valve itself. This is one area that divers do neglect. It's important to rinse water through those holes thoroughly so the chamber is completely clean. This is why I suggest divers SOAK their regulators - so any salt or dirt inside that chamber is softened and rinsed away. 4. The QD (Quick Detach) end of a console HP hose is similarly designed to seal tightly with a spring when the console is disconnected so no water can enter. It doesn't use a Schrader valve but a similar design. I want to add a small point here, partly because I can see that you are quite fastidious about your gear and also that you enjoy these minor technical issues. You must have noticed that the opening on the end of the HP hose for your console is much larger than that on the end of the LP hose for your BCD. Of course it has to accept the spigot on the bottom of the console which is much bigger than the small spigot on the BCD PIV (Power Inflator Valve). That opening, on the HP console hose, can hold quite a bit of water. I'd guess 1/4 teaspoon or so. That water MUST be shaken out carefully before inserting and locking your console to it. Any water that in that opening could go into the console and even the tiniest amount of water in the console, much less salt water, could be disastrous. Strangely, there is no protection to prevent water from going into the console so you must NOT put your console in water if the hose is detached or without the protective rubber cap. Any water in either the large opening on the end of the HP hose or in the tiny hole on the end of the console spigot will be blasted into the console by tank pressure when the air is turned on. Both holes should be carefully blown dry by air from your mouth after rinsing. So you can see that you really don't have much to worry about. You are doing a perfect job and should have no problems with corrosion inside your gear Brian. Please bear in mind that the very nature of scuba gear and the environment in which it operates is such that over time even the most careful diver will need a quick inspection, cleaning and lubrication of his gear. My point is that careful rinsing will keep your gear in perfect condition for a very long time (I regularly service regulators that are 25+ years old) and will preclude permanent damage but, an internal inspection at regular intervals, whether 1 year, 2 years or after a certain number of dives, is still essential. I hope this helps. I wish I had my Equipment Specialist posters and diagrams to show you the details of the internal working of these items. I have had several cut-away regulators and valves made for that purpose and, once you look inside to see exactly how these items are designed, it really helps to understand what and what not to do. Perhaps Kevin and I will do a more details vid on the very things you've mentioned. Thanks for your comments, questions and your support for my vids Brain. This is by far the longest reply I've ever made and that reflects 2 things Brian - I'm retired now and I respect your support. Alec
I was once admonished by a divemaster for soaking the entire regulator setup, including the 1st stage, in a dunk tank. He said that I should only dunk the first stage and then hook the 1st stage to the top of the dunk tank with the second stages and gauges hanging down and soaking in the tank. I guess you are saying this is false as long as the dust cap is in place. Which it was.
There are lots of ways to rinse a reg and just as many opinions. However, an ounce of common sense is worth a fortune. Never be afraid to ask "Why?". If the answer is slow coming or sounds contrived, nod wisely and do it your own way! The 1st and 2nd are connected by hoses. Assuming the 1st is sealed by the dust cap so no water can enter, why rinse it separately from the 2nd? Everyone likes to add their own special twist to what is really a simple process. Makes them look like an expert. I like to keep it simple - put the darn thing in the water, dust cap firmly in place; let it soak for a while to get rig of dried salt; try to not push the purge button; take it out, shake and hang to dry thoroughly; stow it. Alec
I ran into something similar in the Red Sea. We were all instructed not to even dip the 1st stage. I just assumed it was due to it being DIN and I'm only used to yoke style, but apparently not. My guess is they just run into a lot of tourists who are horrible with the dust caps.
if the second stage has a seat saver type feature, when no pressure they are effectively open to the elements and if the first stage falls below the second stage, you have water going from second stage to first stage, no bueno
Try to avoid depressing the purge button while the reg is being rinsed. It's not quite the big deal you might think. Technically if you do press the purge button while the reg is underwater in the rinse tank, water could go up the hose. But, in fact, to do so it would have to go against the ambient air pressure in the hose. That's not likely. Also, even if some water did go up the LP regulator hose, it's not the end of the world. The water won't hurt the hose nor the 2nd stage (which is full of water most of the time anyway). The only danger would be if that water made it all the way to the 1st stage where it could cause a problem. If it's fresh water it won't cause any damage. Salt water will but you're rinsing in fresh water right? And the likelihood of water going all the way up a 27" hose against the air pressure is slim. So, try to avoid pressing the purge button while rising but don't freak out if it happens. If you think it has happened, just put the reg onto a tank and purge air through it for 10 seconds. The dry air going through both stages will clean it out. Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba I think this is quite a big issue that you probably need to add to the video. Because after watching the video( especially the watch button part) I would most likely press the purge button multiple times while rinsing.
I have a problem I just got my first regulator and they told me to soak it and I left the dust cap off and did what they said online to purge it to get all the water out do I need it to get serviced?
Relax OK. I'm assuming it was fresh water so you're OK, OK. I made a video about 'what to do if my reg floods'. See if you can find it. If not get back to me and I'll explain. No. You shouldn't need service. Alec
Go ahead and hook it to some pressure and dry it out with the tank. Purge the regulators, inflate the vest a few times. Maybe even take off the computer/pressure gauge hose and crack the bottle to let it dry everything out. It's not uncommon for a rental tank to have a little moisture in it from time to time so I dry it all out every once in a while. Overall there shouldn't be anything that fresh water would corrode or damage.
You really need to go to a dive store (LDS) and physically check out their dust caps. You could even look at their regulator display and find one that is good. Innovative Scuba #RB1212 is a good example.
Alec Peirce Scuba thanks! Im not so happy with my local shop so ill go SLDS or semi-local dive shop! Love the videos! I live in cape coral and my wife and I hope to drive up, and see ya at the next sea hunt forever gathering! Cheers!
Cape Coral! I'll be there in October for a few days. Maybe we can meet for a coffee. SLDS - I like that. When I say LDS realize that I don't mean a diver should always go to his closest dive shop. I'm painfully aware that not all dive shops are created (or run) equal. I'd never suggest you patronize a store that isn't professional in every respect. In fact, Kevin and I have a series of videos on How To Choose A Dive Store, How To Recognize A Good Dive Store and soon, How To Spot A Bad Dive Store. Talk again soon. Alec
We just returned from Cape Coral. Had a good visit but I didn't see any dive shops. I'm certain there are some but they must be hidden. I did visit both Force E and Underseas Sports in Lauderdale - both really nice stores and staff. Matt at Underseas is very knowledgeable - a good resource for you guys in Florida. Alec
dear alec thew widely common fresh water equpment rinsing is pagan worshiping! i dive almost 30 years in salt water by now. before proffesional and now for fun. never wash my equipment!! even before 3month storege of winter. my gear lasts and lasts. my conshelfs are almost 40 year old and in my time never saw fresh water. my neopren wetsuits mask fins bcd in and out always with salt and lasting long. my first 30years old fins tegulator suit are still in use by smaller family members. actualy fresh water in a closed compartment like bcd can develop bacteria who "eats" it. also a wetsuit left wet with fresh water might also be eatten that way. the only thing i do always wash right after a dive is the aluminum and surely the steel of the tank. i also service my regulators and friends regs when then start free flowing. mares ff after only 1 year. scubapro ff after about 3years and the best work horses ff after 7or more years of hard work and they are all aqualung
And my cousin Ted, 84 years old and still active, has been a chain smoker from his teens. There are always exceptions and yours is certainly one. Odd that you rinse your steel tank but not your steel regulator. However, if you are getting away with it, go for it. Good luck. Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter im not sure if it is an exception. as far as i know salt cannot react on plastics and rubbers. metal regulators and regulators componets are built from very rust resistant metals. I never had any penetrating rust in my gear. only scale. fresh water will not eliminate scale. steel tank easily get rust.
