It's NOT what you think 

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@howNOT2 Dude, so stoked you tested an original tiblok. I just retired one because the teeth are gone and upgraded to the new gated version. Kinda wanna send it to you to play with. Also for the record, it lasted 4 years of weekly use gear hauling for roof cleaning before I polished the teeth off.

That sharp outer edge is the very first thing that hit me when I bought mine... I took a very fine diamond file to that edge all around and damn near polished it. Felt a lot safer instantly, now I know why...😆👍🏻

I actually don't rock climb at all and I watch these videos all of the time because I saddle hunt and there is a lot of useful information out there for us considering we use a combination of forestry and rock climbing equipment. This leads to some issues finding truly safe setups because there isn't really a "correct" way to do it and we end up having a lot of unique issues that others don't have. For example we spend an inordinate amount of time at one spot on the rope for numerous days in succession and bulk, weight, and noise are very important to us. I'd really like to see you do a video testing various common setups, many of which go outside of manufacturer tolerances.

I bough two Tiblocs years ago because they weighed practically nothing and were quite cheap. I carried them with me as a guide for years and don't think I've ever used them.

My Tibloc is for crevasse rescue and emergency hauling/ascending; static-ish loads only. If simul-climbing, idk, the only formal type that I would might do is for glacier travel. That’s done with the rope directly tied into the harness.

Very interesting! You really beat the living crap out of the poor old tibloc 😄 30 kN after all that, impressive!

I don't know if I missed it, but i'd love to see some strength test on aluminium carabiners with steel insert, like the Edelrid Bulletproof. Would be interesting to see where and how they break

How do you know what everyone is thinking? That's quite a talent!. Very comprehensive testing. Great video. .

Very comprehensive testing. Great video. 👍

"It's not science unless you do a large sample size of two". Awesome...YES, Science is like that!!!

Tiblock is a great peace of gear, I mostly use it together wit a rollclip ror hauling or tensioning ropes, cheap, lightweight, small, everyday carry on my harness

Making jokes, breaking things, and probably saving people's lives. Sounds like you have a good job!

tibloc preserves the leader in case if 2nd falls off, so it's an essential test to perform. Yeah, we know the static force is ~600kN but in dynamic it may break the sheath with less force. I mean, fall with 1-2m slack, which looks realistic to me

Hi HowNOT2, I recently went multi-pitch climbing in a group of three, and we used two single ropes instead of twins. We clipped them as we would with twin ropes. It was a bolted route, so I figured we would be fine. I would like to see the difference between the forces generated in a fall using twin ropes as intended and using two single ropes in a single piece. My gut tells me that more force will be generated when using single ropes, since there is more "braking" power. I'd love to see this tested in the drop tower. Thanks!

Could you test the Wild Country Ropeman ascenders. They don’t have small teeth but use a cam and horizontal gear-like teeth. I’ve had a couple for years but have never used them as there wasn’t any good data on them. I’m sure you could reach out to the company and they would let you test them.

Wet palms are wet! Thanks for sharing.

I could have sworn you said "unicorn rope"

How do you know what everyone is thinking? That's quite a talent!

Thank you for testing this!

Now do it with a Duck! ....... the thing from Kong.... please! Also the Edelrid Spoc is a nice device, but I think it should have similar results to the microtraxion and ascender. Also I am excited to the unicore video.

I'm gonna try this for some light block and tackle overhead rigging as a progress capture. Seems like if you use it with proper technique it won't absolutely shred rope

Surely the tibloc is basically two bolt hangers connected together so not surprising it was really strong.

You are only doing tests with the old tibloc, but how does it compare to the new tibloc that has the plastic spring part to insure rope tension? is it still as strong in the new design?

What a great and useful tests. Thank you 🙏🏻👌🏻👍🏻🌹❤

You had similar results with the megajul. I assume that steel would probably destroy he rope first in most of these scenarios.

May I ask, isn‘t the leader supposed to get catched by the teeth? Cause in your test it was the other way around?

Hey Ryan have you ever tested the Petzl Shunt? I use it for TR soloing all the time, it doesn't have teeth, I'd be interested to see how it does.

Have you tested the climbing technology roll n lock and I just haven't noticed? It's kinda cool because it doesn't use "teeth" like a tibloc or microtraxion

it seems to me that the test at about 8:00 doenst even load the tibloc? its just throught the carabinner.. really its just a rope test at that point...

Two dudes. One line. I don't know what I was expecting with that title.

Man I hate Newtons so much. I've always wondered why didn't they line it up with the rest of the base units? I feel like they took what benefit metric has and threw it out the window with Newtons. In anything relatively scientific or where I don't mind the extra syllables I'll always use SI, but honestly Kilonewtons annoy me so much that I always just end up using lbs. Especially when it comes to anything related to body weight. But you know what the worst is though? Units of time.....the one change we _really_ need and it just got left by the wayside. Noone even talks about decimalizing time anymore...😢😢

Never thought about adding it to an anchor to protect in simul climbing. Seems like you lose the shock absorbing ability of the second as counterweight, and risk higher forces overall. Nice as a backup for the second in case the rope gets stuck, or the crux need to be passed. You should do a test against a standard prussik

Have a question are the teeth on your older one as sharp as the teeth on the new ones the pictures online show a very aggressive teeth

Thanks

which teal blue carabiner with green locker screw is that one?

Science more typically does 3 measurements and not 2 for a given set of test criteria. The exception might be if both measurements are within your concern/desire for accuracy. With two measurements, which is right? The third breaks the tie (pun intended), so to speak. Climb on.

Would the TiBlock (new one) work as progress capture for SRT? With what and where would you back it up? I want to be as safe as possible. Thanks.

I’ve used tiblocs for years. But NEVER as a fall arrest device! I have an ASAP for that. it’s used in conjunction with other devices for ascending or positioning. Are people really putting themselves in a position where the tiblloc is the only thing holding them up?

i didn't know they added a spring to a new version, it kinda justifies high price😂 my friend tried to use it for toprope solo on easy alpine routes and wasn't happy about it at all as the thing seemed to not catch every other time he tried to load it ps the old version

Can this replace a prusik for repelling? given it might shreds the rope or add additional wear, wonder if its worth it?

Its about 225 lbs per kilonewton

I wanna see extreme pro unicore by PMI tested with knots and ascenders. Overhand 8 And all types of ascenders

¡Gracias!

YESSS I just bought the new and old version

🍀🍀

Test for nothing ...cause the block ...its only in case of emergency and to climb up ...not for do security for the second guy ....

promo sm 💯

Major takeaway from this video..... climbing without rope is much cheaper.....

🪦

nnoo please send me that unicore rope 😢 don't destroy it

Well, I am not sure how all those test scenarios are relevant considering it is not a belaying device and should never be used as it and you could use a clove hitch if you have nothing else left. It should only be used as a very lightweight blocking device for ascending rope, rescuing someone, or hauling equipment even if I’m sure it’s not the best way to haul. As asked in comments, ropeman devices or any other devices that pinch rope or use teeth will de-sheath rope at some point, that point potentially being lower that the average force you may put on the rope in case of a fall. You may find some tests on the RU-vid channel of ENSA (French National school of mountaineering and climbing) which publish studies aiming at improving techniques and security. You’re be surprise by the results.

That’s an old model tibloc the new model is better still slippery

I'd be very interested in seeing the same tests done with the newer Tibloc.

I thought they were for emergency use. Ideal as a back up hand ascender if you are mine exploring l/caving using srt. Its good to see this on static rope x

I've only used these for simul-climbing. In that case, I rig them to protect the follower (rope can run up, but not down), so if the follower falls they don't pull the leader off the wall.

re: the test at 5:27, the forces are high for a whip because the follower isn’t realistically modeled as a finite mass

The timing of this was great - the alpine savy post mentioned using them for low - load progress capture devices and specifically pointed out Petzl instructions to run rope over the carabiner when used like that. I thought it was for load distribution of the rope over the carabiner so it wasn’t on the rails. Turns out it was the edge de-sheathing the rope were supposed to be afraid of!

Love this! Using a microtrax or ropeman for simul-climbing is something I do a few times a year and always concerns me a little, I was wondering whether using a tibloc was an option.

"The shredded rope would give you more anxiety at that point" bro at least you'd be around to have anxiety 🤷‍♂️😅

I like my old Shunt.

thank you ryan! as usual - great video!! and thanks for testing tibloc - as i wrote you in a mail! =) you're the best!!

How did i end up here?

Oh wow. As an arborist, this is basically useless to me, but still good to know.

I have, in an act of desperation and optimism, used a tibloc as a bolt plate for Aussie carrot bolt (just use one ‘cheek’ as a plate & clip into the bigger side to trap the thing onto the hex head) I’ve often wondered if it would have held a fall…. @HowNOT2

7:30 I noticed the plates started to pinch inward on the carabiner. Did it return to normal or did it bend in & stay tight?

Can you please get the new one and do another review to compare the new and old models!!!

Have you climber guys used "soft rope constrictors" that use a fabric sleeve around the rope? No teeth at all. We use them in ocean sailing, see Ronstan Constrictor.

I've never really liked devices that have sharp pointy teath but I am aware that there are places that they might be the item that most climbers reach for. I joined the climbing world through the tree surgery side of things and long enough back that all the fancy assenders and rope tending devices that tree surgions use today didn't exist. My preferred method has always been prusik ropes. I can't climb anymore due to severe back problems, but I've recently started taking my daughter to the local climbing wall. My original idea was to stay on the floor and be a belay bunny for her but she suffers with anxiety issues and has decided that she wants me up there beside her....... which brings me back to assenders and other rope management/ rope tending devices...... which can be very expensive. I'm still playing with different ways to assend the ropes but it boils down to prusiks (or something similar) and some pullies to slowly make my way up beside her. I'm still not really convinced that Tiblock types of devices are the way to go 😂

What kind of rope is that at 2:27 and 1:11? Looks like same make, but different colors and/or diameters? Great video, Ryan! Thanks as always for chasing another proverbial rabbit!

Once is a fluke, twice is a coincidence, three times is a pattern, four times is a standard. Just FYI regarding testing standards

i've just discovered your channel, it's really good. you say your 's' sounds in a strange way though that makes me think you're maybe not allowed near schools and swimming pools

As rock climbing instructors we sometimes top rope solo with grigri's or microtraxions in easy terrain. Now I was in a scenario with a rope too thin for the Grigri and I did not have a traxion, so I used an auto locking Munter, have you guys ever tested this? What breaks first the rope (in a knot) or the weirdly loaded carabiner?

Have you ever used or tested The Petzl ROLLCLIP Pulley Carabiner?

💦Can you say kilonewton and hold the new...so I can see the "O" face again?😮

Well done 👍very good and helpful video 👍thanks

Anyone got a link to the video mentioned @ 3:32? I still haven't come across it.

4:35 even though it was a test, the scrariest sound ive heard in a while

best rigger in the game

It IS what I think! A shitty title.

This just in. Steel is strong.

Very comprehensive testing. Great video. . Very comprehensive testing. Great video. .

Have you done a review on Climbing Technologies Rollnlock? I like it a lot for the less aggressive gripping design. While top rope soloing I use it and a gri gri and it hasn't failed me yet but I'm not taking whippers like that. Would love to see what it can take.

I carrry two Tiblocs with my chalk bag... they are ultra lightweight and they can do many things for you in a pinch. Side note.... I try to never have to use them.

I have used one of these before to climb the mast of a sailboat using a block and tackle. Mostly so you dont need someone bored on deck losing attention to you and being trapped up there when someone on deck is running the winch and decides to take off. Its never failed and if it did all you need to do is grab the falls of the tackle to stop or slow your descent. This was definitely interesting. I didnt know there were so many ways to use it.

certainly would not be a device I would use. Any device that shreds ropes is not my preferred choice. I’d rather the device slipped before damaging the rope -every time.

I just now remember to dream I had weeks ago about testing out micro-akimbos on like 8 mm dymax core or something.. being all psyched about it in the dream.. is that weird??

I used to use a half clove knot or croosed carabiner descender to belay my partner too, in case of emergency. Old school method works very well! Those teehts makes me chill!

Great material..Thank you so much. NOW we have some real numbers and not just a gut feel.

Have you tested kong duck rope clamp ? Doesn't have aggressive teeth

Interesting, I’d use it exclusively for static use anyway

It's my favorite ascender because it's small and light

Tiblocs are forged steel , amazing strength for weight

could be a good time to release the CT rollnlock video :) please lol

Whoaaaa. This one was wild to watch. Thanks for testing it!

You guys are the only ones doing these experiments, thanks

I'd like to see a gibbs versus a jumar pull

Fancy looking microtraxions! :D

Nice video’s & great demos🐛 thank you for ever.

"a large sample size of 2" 🤣🤣🤣