James, if you make the centreline as an actual centreline, Fusion will dimension against it as diameters and you don't need to do the dive by 2 thing, and you don't need to manually select the Axis in revolve :) It the button next to Construction line in the sketch pallette.
@@Clough42 yup :) it can be pretty useful, mainly for things that will be revolved, but sometimes for other things as well :) It's only dimensions that are snapped to the centerline that turns into diameter dimensions :)
@@JBLewis you're welcome :) The centerline acts like a normal line in that it will close up a contour, like you'd often want it to for a revolve, but that does make it less useful in other situations. These days I really only use it for revolved parts, which I don't do all that often :P
@@oldfarthacksThe biggest problem I have is that Fusion has shortcuts to speed up your work (E for extrude, D for dimension) but on some dialogs the only way to click on the default button is by hitting it with the mouse instead of just hitting the Enter key
@@oldfarthackssame here, I worked with AutoCAD for ~17 years before switching to Fusion, and while I some times miss the keyboard shortcuts, since it got my Spacemouse Pro a CAD mouse compact I don't miss them 😁 anywhere near as mucg
@@Robinlarsson83 I consider the Spacemouse a Fusion essential. You can get by if you have a 3-button mouse so you can shift-middle-click to rotate, but it's not great.
25:27 Even though it doesn't matter, it matters 😂 that should be on a tee-shirt. Btw your slightly isometric viewing angle of your sketch plane footage is perfect, it makes what you are showing, crystal clear 👍
You have made me jealous.I do not have a 3D printer and I am 75, not yet able to use the program you are using. Probably wont learn before I die. Like Mr Pete says, I'm waiting to take a dirt nap. However, I will continue as long as God gives me breath. I watch you and many others. Thanks for what you do, and share.
Very useful tips and tricks in fusion. I find myself always trimming/breaking lines for aesthetics...and always breaking a bunch of constraints in the process. Seeing how you left all the full non-construction lines and it still 'just works' is genuinely really helpful. Other stuff like 'scale whole sketch' is extra handy. Bravo sir.
I say it on every Fusion tutorial you post but damn it you always tech me some new trick whenever you put one of these videos out. I’m so glad I picked up the 3D printing hobby. Solving these kinds of problems with the little factory on my desk blows my mind every time.
Wow! This is unrelated to the video's topic, but I just noticed the camera is slowly rotating, so a static scene background looks alive and more attractive. Cool feature!
The first time I saw the background object moving back and forth it was *really* distracting, but then my brain locked onto what it was doing for the subject image, and I ended up liking the effect!
if you use the construction line as your midpoint you dont have to put in half the diameter for the dimension you can put in the full diamter and it will make it symmetric to that mid point, pretty useful and one less step to take.
You now need a dust cap for your dust cap! When you have that new cap loose when you're using the port, chips and dirt could possibly collect inside it! OCD people unite! 🤣
Great video. It's fun when a design is nailed first time, print once and done. It's also fun to go through iterations and get better and better. Both fun, just different types.
Gday James, that was brilliant, I do use fusion but I have a lot more learning to do, you really make it look easy and easy to follow along, thanks very much, cheers
if you use a centre line then you don't need to half the dimension it will automatically give you a diameter dimension and would automatically select the centreline when you do the revolve
Yeah, I discovered those after I finished my design. The one idea I saw in those that I want to steal is the keyhole-shaped opening in the lanyard to make it easier to get over the connector.
This was a very valuable project that gives new ideas and information. I really like that you gave information about the slicer settings, which you without doubt has been working quite a lot with to get it right. Also the info about the filament and choice of nozzle is of high value. In summarize this is what makes your RU-vid channel so valuable to follow.
And even though I use Fusion 360 on a daily basis, there are always one or two new things that I pick up from your tuturials. One thing I do, is to use the diameter dimension on revolving extrusions. So instead of typing 21.8/2 I use the diameter dimension feature. Hit D for dimension, first click the center line, then the item you want to dimension and then right click and select "diameter dimension". Yes, that takes more time and actions but coming back to an old design I now immediately know this is a diameter dimension (or something that is later being mirrored) and I don't have to click on the dimension to see it is a /2 measurement
Awesome tutorial! I was able to follow it on Freecad with only a few changes to the workflow. Now I need to break out that flexible filament that I bought a while ago and give it a shot!
Not only is your content great, thoughtful and through; but you have one of the cleanest and most sophisticated logos around. I'd give you a 9.2 on the OCD scale for q1uality of work too.
I do lots of iterative design for 3d printing. Compensates for my lack of formal training in engineering by testing the physics of the object in real life. I then do real life testing for endurance, fit and function till my design is good enough
I made caps like this for my gasoline/diesel cans. But I have been struggling with flexible filament print quality. So was glad to see your settings which I will test on my Prusa. Thanks! 7/14/2024 addendum: Yes those settings worked well for me on my MK3S+ with a Diamondback nozzle. However a recent TPU print required a slight adjustment. I was making guide wheels for a riding lawn mower deck. They are a screw together rim (2 halves) and a TPU "tire". On the bed the tire tapers up and out at the outer edge at first as it prints. The edge was tending curl up, getting higher than the extruder nozzle as it went. Eventually this led to a failed print. So for this part I went to .25mm layer height and extrusion of 1.05. That solved the curling up at the edge. It is so nice to be able to print TPU parts for stuff. I think the Diamondback nozzle really helped. Print quality is excellent now.
I did follow through with this using the .4 diamond nozzle in a Prusa Mk3s+ and with the recommended settings. The filament I used was Overture TPU, black color. Just a few prints but all look fantastic. I was using a .6 hardened steel nozzle. Great for carbon fiber PLA, but not so great for TPU. (terrible actually) So again thanks for sharing your experience! It definitely helped me.
I agree with the machining vs 3d printing. My lathe has seen a lot of rest since I've obtained my 3d printer. Nice project and good results. I learned a few fusion tricks also.
At 8:40 if you click and drag the line off a circle the line will always stay tangent, your second selection on the next circle can also be tangent. this just saves you having to make the constraint after. handy tip
Did you know there is a centerline button next to the construction line button on the sketch palette? if you apply that to the centerline in a sketch you want to revolve, you can input diameter dimensions when you dimension to that centerline, it will also give that line priority when using the revolve command :)
one question I ask everyone who doesn't use the centerline line when doing rotary part using revolve Why don't you use the centerline line to then just dimension the diameter without thinking about having to divide it by 2 to get the radius? Because no matter how careful you are you will forget and you will make the radius double the size and if you don't catch it because you are tired or have a lot of features and miss that one, you'll scrap the part even before you made it
Because I didn't know about it. You see all the comments from people who learn something from every one of my Fusion videos. I learn something new in the comments on just about every video, too.
Given how fussy you generally are with your finishing of parts and removing the twists etc i was fully expecting there to be one final iteration where you extended the lanyard so the loop was a nice symmetrical semi circle in its profile when fitted to the air connector. A novel idea though, well done!
Hi James, It is not done! If you can do it - you can over do it. Hollow out the center plug and make a seal ring on it so it wil "satisfyingly" pop whe pulled out 😁
7:10 everything is black doesn't mean it's fully constrained. Expand the sketches folder, and look for red lock icon the sketch you are working. If you see that lock it's fully constrained.
Finally! ...I've been practicing Fusion 360 and making good progress. Watched the video and can actually follow what was going on. In fact, most of the way through, I was actually predicting what you were going to be doing next. Of course I learned a lot from you today also. For the last month, I've been designing more and more in fusion and less and less in SolidWorks, getting to like it a lot.😂
It boggles my mind that fusion has no select behind/through hotkeys. Other 3d/cad programs I have used have this and it makes selections so much easier.
Nice tip there about the scale sketch at first dimension setting! Btw, if you dimension from a line to a centerline, it automatically knows and allows you to enter the diameter without having to enter d/2. Also, SMC fittings are junk. Parker/Legris or Festo.
It's what Grainger had in stock the day I realized I didn't have what I needed, and it's been working fine for me. Though to be fair, I buy most of my pneumatics from Automation Direct, and I suspect opinions of their quality may be similar.
@@Clough42 I have a possibly irrational beef with SMC. For hobbyist use, I’m sure they’re fine. At work, I troubleshoot, maintain, and create a lot of complex pneumatic circuits on Swiss aerosol filling equipment. The machine manufacturer, Pamasol, always shipped the machines with Parker/Legris and Serto fittings and we’ve always had a pretty consistent 10-15 years of reliability with each fitting in a harsh environment. Our plant recently started stocking SMC fittings and I’ve had issues such as gripping rings stop working on them after a very short amount of time but I’ve also seen them not fail for years. Just have a preference for Parker/Legris.
And it's only after printing just enough to fit out the shop and using the last of the TPU on hand you start going around and discover that you have 3 different models of the quick connect in the shop, and none of them have the same outer dimensions as the 4th on the back of the mill that you designed off of has. :-) (Yeah, done things like that too.) It is nice that a model works as envisioned, and isn't a 6 month project to complete too.
@@Clough42 Probably the HF common source. I've picked up quick connects and hose ends for quick connects from HF, Menards, Home Depot, and Millica Unclaimed Freight (Something like Harbor Freight, but not as selective about what they carry, everything from Toelson brand tools through crafting supplies and clothing, on up to some cast iron surface table saws (don't ask me if they are actually cabinet saws or not, I haven't looked that close. But they are on my way to my retiring place, so I occasionally shop there. And yes, that means I have a collection of mix and match. It mostly works together though. It's not like I'm trying to attach a 3/4 hose quick connect to a half inch hose end...Thanks for the video.
I watched the first minute, than rewound to take a look at the manifold inlay screenshot and WOAH there's a really slow camera pan from right to left?!
Seems the slow pan exists even into the other segments. It's a slow back and forth which is really cool as you get to see the item from different directions without realizing it or having to deal with jarring camera moves or being frustrated that the camera is locked off. Very cool.
@@Clough42 Maybe only one slow pan in a single direction? Or maybe a slow ramp up/down and not a jarring reverse? It doesn't bother me at all but if it has a back and forth with a sharp reversal it'll make people uneasy. I would definitely like to see you play around with it a bit more. It kinda turns a 2D video into 3D which could be very useful to give us viewers a better idea of the relative dimensions of what we're looking at.
@@technobabble_ Part of the issue was that I didn't realize I had lens (and body) stabilization turned on in the camera, and it was trying to compensate when the slider changed speed, resulting in a really weird lurch.
I've 3D printed countless functional parts from electronics cases to antenna mounts, latches, jigs, cowels, rails, handles and so forth... but one of the coolest use cases is iterative designs for fitment and refinement prior to machining the final part. I live on a boat in the summer and have spent years working on it. Absolutely nothing is at a right angle; everything is compound and complicated. Lately I've been milling replacement woodwork out of teak, and 3D printing test pieces before sending the (inverted) job to my CNC machine has cut my failure rate down to pretty much zero. Which is nice.. because teak is expensive. :)
Its looks like a dust-cap of a aviation chassis connector, but nice work. One more question : How do you keep the dust-cap dust-free when you use this connection ? 🤔
Could you have hollowed out the lip instead of making the cuts to the same effect if you wanted to maintain a seal, or is breaking up the circular lines what matters?
Super impressed with that set up. I really struggle with printing this filament for some reason and will try some of these settings. Where did you purchase the nozzle?
"It's twisted. It bothers me". Yep, anything like that tends too upset the karma. When I put electrical sockets (outlets) on, the screws have to be aligned vertically, just cannot do with the slots all over the place. Another nice little job James. I'm still considering a 3D printer and have the budget for a Bambu X1 Carbon, but still not sure if I should wait for something new from them or others. Anyone any suggestions?
Just what I needed to get settings for the first spool of TPU on my MK3S+, perfect timing, James! I've read that loosening the idler on the extruder was a good idea with TPU, did you get by fine without doing that?
Great exercise for surr but as an ex parker hannefin rep, arent these available from endless sources from dog doo amazon on up for like less than a bick a shot?
I thought the same thing about 40 years ago. My solution was to hang pieces of rag over the female connectors. It works brilliantly and the bonus is theres always a rag in the right place for "needs". But your cap is beutiful, I instantly thought. Then you designed the integral lanyard. I am guessing you have stopped cooking on gas? I assume you have a Starship engine in your cooker.
With the relative simplicity of this design you won't notice any CAD performance degradation from your various modeling approaches. But best practices are there because as your CAD work expands all those little inefficiencies add up. I work with several thousand component assemblies and after "cleaning up" these types of sins (no design changes) the file open time has gone from 15+ minutes to about 2.5. So yes, pattern your chamfers. Yes, get your fillets outside of the sketch and into a feature. Dimensions get the worst gas milage. Adding all those chamfer dimensions in the sketch just bogs the system with calculation overhead. Practice good modeling on the simple and you'll automatically use it on the complex. Often, the problematic complex big assembly is a problem because of the multitude of poorly made simple components.
