I love my s type. Unfortunately their is very little information available on replacement of components and things to look for. Great video giving solid info. Please make more
03 onwards. Water from the scuttle is managed by dumping it into the V6. The plugs and coils get destroyed, misfires destroy the cats. Fix it by fitting a shield over the brace/under the scuttle at the back of the engine to divert the water feature. Thin aluminium is fine and easy enough to pop holes in and form so it doesn't rattle. It was a bad choice to decide the water would evaporate under the coils,it gets in at the back. Eventually the rocker cover also gets destroyed and the channels under the coils look like the inside of an alloy hot water tank. The drain point is at the centre wiper, it's not a seal, neither is the rubber along the windscreen lower edge. Good luck out there, I have the early 4.0 which has different issues.
Great video. Fantastic advice. I have had several of these problems including the fuel pump and the misfire. When I retrofitted sat nav, I wired inline fuses to protect the (remote) climate control module from a failed climate control valve.
I have a 2002 S 4.0 bought new in airconditioned garage with 13k miles. I have just begun with repairs starting with the rear suspension bushing. Thank you, Capt Dan
Great Video. I have previously owned 2 3.0 SE's and now own an R. Have experienced most of these issues at one time or another along the way. Another problem ALL of my S-Types suffered from is annoying front suspension knocking caused by worn front anti-roll bar (sway) bushes. Due to the way Jaguar designed the car, its a pain to replace them but you don't need to remove the subframe as per the Jaguar process. Need to tackle from inside the engine bay, remove the expansion tank, all hoses at the front (disconnect and move out of the way using bungie cords as appropriate), the heater valve, Intercooler pump (R only) etc and be creative with socket extensions and UJ's. You will of course still need to get under the car to remove the U clamps, bushes and re-install etc. I replaced with Powerflex on my R so I never have to do the job again as well as the drop links to complete the job as the extra cost is low and the R is a keeper.
THX! rly I have owned the car for half a year, I am absolutely in love with its spirit - in your video I noticed a couple of sores that apparently are in my car. Thank you!
Appreciate the video. Spot on btw. I bought one, replaced the transmission filter, replaced majority of the suspension (bushings), and O2 sensors. Specialty shops will charge $$$. It’s the OEM parts that cost so much, plus some of the knockoffs don’t mix well. Once again great video.
Firstly I thank this man since these are reliabe cars really and only a few problems arise - And problem is that Original Jag parts are mostly expensive complete assemblies. 'Bushes for example, not available individually. But my reason for writing is the climate control heater valve and the leak caused by water (not short circuit) caused by water ingress when the rubber seal failes. A short circuit would be better since it would just blow the fues. This current leak happens ONLY if someone has replaced the heater valve with one of many cheap once on E Bay. The reason is that the original has the solenoides completely encapsulated inside moulded plastic which makes it impossible for water to reach them and draw more current (higher load) on the circuit board. So you need to buy Bosch or Motocraft. The rest are no good. Pure water is really a complete insulator. But water in cars are full of aditives and impuriies. The current draw of each solenoid (it has two, one for left and one for right heatin) i maximum 1 amp - typically less. The current goes up whe water reaches the terminals but not enough to blow the fuse - and this overloads the printed circuit lines you see on the circuit board and you will notice that the line on the circuit board burns out at its weakest point. That is why some say they can repair it by connecting the break in the line with a jumper soldered wire. And this is why the S ype has the reputation of unreliable climae control. The core of the problem is a cheap replacement part. so if you are lucky and the Jag still has the original valve, there is now a reconditioning kit for it, to replace the washer and new plungers since like I said the original electrical solenoids are sealed and never need replacing. There is one thing I need to add which explains why when this fails - heat goes to full ON and it is unbearabe. Solenoids ON - ie 12 volts reaches the solenoids = closed position - no heat. So when a tiny line on the circuit board burns out - the 12 volts do not reach the solenoind and so you get full heat. Good idea for the UK and cold countries - since these would be OFF position most of the time, to heat the car. But not for hot countries - they would be ON most of the time.
A great video - clear and precise. I have a 2003 S-Type R w 195.5 K miles.- many of the problems you mention are the same on the S/C car. I have some of the common problems - 1. No control of the climate control system - mine runs hot all the time. I've been told my heater core is is blocked and condenser too -they said the upper and lower fittings did not match etc. but shop did not look at the CCV - so a video on this would be great if it doesn't already exist (I'm new to your channel). 2. I just developed a very loud squealing serpentine belt upon start-up and it stays until the part (or car) gets warmed up. There was a TSB on this problem which involved replacing several pulleys - and on my car perhaps the S/C belt and pulley. A video on this would be helpful.
Thanks for making this seriously aware video about the top 10 problems of this beautiful beast/S-Type. After your crystal clear explanation, everything is boiling down to one question: Should Jaguar lovers (not mechanics) buy this S-Type?
Weldone for your good job here, i really appreciate this, please on the transmission part, can you do a video of how to replace those transmission leakages, the throbearing, and transmission mount.
You're the man. I have a 2000 s type and I stalled out on a highway ramp. Finally got it started again and my mechanic said it was the alternator. Still having the problem after a new alternator. It has a rough idle. Sometimes when I hit the gas it it cuts out. And it stalls every once in a while. I have an engine light on. Also my traction fault is on and recently the airbag light goes on Sometimes. Smh. Any idea where to start?
rough idle might mean bad spark plugs/coils,, with the airbag light ive heard a cable on the steering wheel mounted one can get bad over time (read it in a forum as ive recently gotten a airbag light too)
2000 MODEL Rough idle - CHANGE 'PCV VALVE ' rubber tube , located at top rear of motor. DIY #$50 . workshop > $350. Re traction fault. I have same problem. I just ignore it.
Alarm bell: not the standard sound from open-door or back-up sensor. Softly repeats 5 times, then pause, then 5 dings, then pause, finally goes away after repeating 3 times.
I wish to say to Jag on a Budget, that I have pictures of the Bosch and Motocrat sealed solenoids and what those cheap once on ebay look like. I can send you copies if you wish o add them to this video. And yes, the AC system is not just complex - it uses a system which is no conventioal - if the cooling give problems - give it to someone that knows how the cooling works ( a part time technician that has Jag experience) since it is not conventional at all.
Interessante e ben spiegato complimenti. Da parte mia segnalo un doppio problema su Jaguar s-type executive 2.7d automatico a macchina ferma con motore spento si inserisce il climatizzatore e si deve intervenire con accensione motore per eliminare il problema poi anche dopo spegnimento del motore si sente un gorgoglio come acqua in ebollizione
My wife drove our s-type hot, oil doesn't smell burnt. I replaced thermostat, im not sure if I'm not burping it right or what, I have no heat into the cab I decided it was water pump not moving the coolant being it's cheap and a easy swap I did it, nothing changed. I see the valve you showed and wanted to know if that could be my problem, temp gauge was at middle and held put you could tell it was over heating so coolant is not getting to sensor. Thx for your time
Excellent summary. I have a 2004 Jaguar S-Type 6 cyl . I have had a Performance Restriction for months now. It runs great but it bucks when I try to accelerate quickly. I also have water in the passenger floor mat after heavy rain. Could the PCM be damaged like you mentioned?
Hi, the oil light in my dashboard keeps illuminating, i changed the oil and the light is still illuminating intermittently. What shall i do? I drive a 2007 S Type car 3.0
Honestly those Jaguar S types were so horrible with reliability issues when they were new, I figured the great majority of them are in the junk yard. I have not seen one on the road in years!
TY brother, I have a question. Now I have a problem with cold start. I change the fuel pump battery and the problem is the same. What can be? when hot it starts me the first time
I need some help/recommendations. With the ignition cylinder not working right (cat system fault error nothing works, speedometer, milage, suspension(only the rpm) works). I have to flip the key or get it in just right to work or mess with the hazard/rest clear/trip buttons to work.
hello there, I like your video. I have a 2002 s type sport, that has been sitting in my garage for past 6 years with discounted battery. when I went to start it, I shows a message ' engine fail-safe ' it turns over, but won't fire up. any idea what it could be ? cheers.
I have a s type 4.2 2003 101K miles. When i go up from the lowest gear on any side of the J gate shifter between the lowest gear and second the car makes a slight thud and triggers a gearbox fault then the car goes into limp mode. I pull over wait a minute restart the car and its fine. It doesn't do it all the time but sometimes 4 or 5 times a day. It doesn't do it in any other gear. I live pretty rural and no one here even wants to try and fix it. Online jag guy said it could be the coil for if it back fires there is a signal sent to the gearbox for the fault to protect the engine ...but other say its the tranny...Any Ideas? Thanks
Had it ever any fluid changes for the gearbox? Usually they never change the fluid for them as they were marketed as needing basically no service, which is a lie lmao
and by your description it would not be a misfire but a gearbox fault. A usualy misfire would make your car burn more gas when stationary give you less performance etc
That's a silly question ! Anything could jump out and destroy your wallet anytime. You can do your own maintenance if your a competent DIY'er , If you are tight with money, STAY AWAY., especially early 2000 model onwards. (S-Types) . Note: ALL RUBBERS perish over time even on Rolls Royce, Prestige prices then come into play to repair.
Hi I have a jaguar stype 2004 and the other day I got a park brake fault code which cause my car to go into limp mode I tried looking it up and it said if my battery is bad that means it's not giving enough voltage to the electric park brake so I had my battery checked and AutoZone said it was bad so I had a new one put in then I drove from sam's club and it came back on then later I got a check engine light which said tps or throttle body sensor code I checked with my scan tool so now I got two issues 😭😭😭
I have a 2007 3.0. Aircon gassed and runs cold only when Revs are above about 1500rpm… turns into a furnace at traffic lights…. Electrical? Valve? Clutch on compressor? … please help I’m melting in traffic.
Best car . I ve every had. Jag serviced from new. Always wanted the Sweeney Jag. I know you're American. Just Google , The Sweeney. A classic over here. Bank robbers car of choice 🤣😂🤣😂
Hello, can you help me? I have a 2000 S-Type V6 3.0 that has a problem, it cuts off the engine when you step on the accelerator.You can drive all day with it but you just can't press the gas when you do that it cuts the engine. You have to accelerate gradually, smoothly. What could it be? The scanner showed a problem with the accelerator pedal sensor and also the throttle body, we have already replaced both and the problem persists...please help me.
Yes you know what you know what experience is I'm trying to get a chance to save a neglected rare model of a Rcode 03 display screen and abuse motor being a Ford motor sport fan most of the whole car will be my pride and joy luxury muscle car of the styling is nice and all business to the ride
Just got my first 05 jag tdv6 in P/X, im a mechanic; Jags are awful, nothing but unreliablr badly designed crap as expected. Not an opinion, its just a fact.. i advise those who like 'cheaping out' to stay away as this is no honda civic 😂
Complete rubbish I’ve had two s types,a well maintained jag is a reliable car, any car not maintained is unreliable jags are no worse or better than anything else, if you want a unreliable car buy a range Rover.
Isn't it a good idea to give a completely new life to the 2003 Jaguar S-Type 3.0 by replacing the original gasoline engine with the complete electrical engine like the Tesla cars ????
Hey, do you have the part numbers to the rear lower control arm bushings (most importantly the rear lower rearward) thank you... I just got a beautiful s type and I'm in the middle of replacing all the suspension bushings , everything is done except the rear lower arms because I'm having a hard time getting correct part #s....
One of the 2 lower control arm bushings I used is MOOG K201812, sold on many online parts stores. The other is MTC8130, I could only find a generic one on fleabay. The rear shock bushing is URO C2D4013.
Really good summary video. I have an ‘04 V8 automatic and have dealt with many of these same maintenance issues. I was able to repair the burnt traces on my climate control module with a few basic soldered jumper wires. When I removed the pcb board from the dash unit it was visually obvious where the damaged traces were.
I wish I was so lucky! My ACCM board measured bad but I couldn't find any burnt traces so I had to get a replacement. I'm guessing one of the components on my board burnt out. Glad you found the video helpful!
Excellent and very informative video! Thank you so much for making this video. I have a 2000 S Type 4.0, and have that clunking worn out bushing sound, but I heat it in the front, not so much the rear. Do you know if there are bushings in the front? Please make a video on installing the bushings. Than you again.
So I had automatic transmission and it died, I changed it to manual I put manual gearbox in 3.0 and now it’s asking to change gears on 3000-3500rpm and if you don’t change gear it doesn’t goes for more rpm, and what it could be what should I change do u have any clue bro? thx.
That’s the self-leveling gears for the headlights. You can get aftermarket metal gears and replace it yourself ⚙️ . Jaguar don’t have the gears available, and will only sell you the whole headlight.
FYI - drooping headlights is an issue on both HID and standard headlights. The adjusters are not robust or strong enough to withstand the downward force exerted on the lights when you hit the front edge of a pothole, causing them to break. They are very poorly designed.
Your car is an early 1999-2003 car, so I am surprised that you did not mention front suspension nor window regulators, both of which are problematic and were replaced on the later 2004-07 cars, which are more reliable than the BMW E60 5-series with which they competed. Failure-prone factory 4-litre cam chain tensioners and the pathetic Ford transmission on the early automatic v6 should also be mentioned.
I had problems with the electronic handbrake every winter...it didn't like the cold.!! Made the sounder constantly go beep beep beep..it was the module that sits on top of the rear axle failing..got one from an XJ6 and so far it's been ok since.. £90
I drive a 2000 Rover 75 KV6 with 53000 miles on the odometer and was considering buying a Type S with it. But now that I hear these 10 issues, I think I'm limiting myself to just one car with these kind of maintenance issues. But you never know.
Great video. I had some body work carried out last week, after watching you video I think that I should have brought those 'Magic beans' from the old lady outside the bodywork shop.
Great video thanks for all your effort. I have had the typical coil pack issues replaced with second-hand units relatively easily (however doing the ones under the inlet manifold is a lot of swearing as you have to remove the intake manifold as you probably know! ). I've just managed to fix a vacuum leak on the 2.5 V6 engine that was causing very low brake booster performance when cold. turned out it was just the rubber rings on the small plastic vacuum pipe to the servo where it connects at the back of the engine , and the one underneath the throttle body. Fixed for very little money with two 2.4 x 8.3 NBR o rings! Would love to see a drooping headlight fix video! All the best...
