Great info, just one quick question, is there no way the old oil can be sucked out by way of a syringe or similar, only asking as need to do this to my jag or is the tilting method the only way, many thanks
You can suck it out with a syringe and as you see in the video the oil will pour out when it is level - but to how to fill it back up again without it being tilted? There's a few videos where people have made and fitted valves to allow this. You are only going to do it every 60'000 miles and its not so difficult to tilt.
I have to say that your videos are very helpful and they've made me more confident when it comes to do some work on my x-type. Tanks a lot and keep them coming if you can. I definitely don't want you to have more problems with your Jag, but just in case, we will be greatfull. Good job.
I would drive the car for 200 miles then put in the proper Jaguar oil next time which is a very special oil it costs £25 per litre. I used a sump draining pump that runs off the car battery costs about £20. I would make sur the Jag il is full to the level plug no more or no less oil than stated in the book. Transfer box failures are usually caused by having odd size tyres. 4 wheel drive cars must have the tyres replace as a set of 4. 75 in my MG I use synthetic 75/80 oil which is the same viscosity as 20/50 engine oil. The gear oil S.a.e. viscosity for gear oil numbers is not on the same scale as for engine oil.Transmission oil is dependant on chemical content rather than viscosity.
6 years and 12,000 miles later and the car is running fine. The main reason for a failure on the X Type is being told the units were sealed for life and then running dry at about 65000 miles. There is no such thing as 'proper Jaguar oil' as Ford does not make oil. Bristol Transmissions who supply the recon units at 1100 quid recommend 0.6 litres of 75W90 oil at 9 quid a litre. If you fill it to the level plug without tipping the car over you will kill the transfer box as there will only be about 100ml in it.
Great helpful video. my transfer box is currently been replace after it failed. otherwise I love the x type. waited a long time to get one. have to change back disks an pads next. 3.0 v6 version
It looks like the Automatic Gearbox has been leaking it to the Tranferbox. This would explain the overfilling of the Transferbox as well as the backness of the Oil. Easy to check by using the fill tube underneath the Gearbox. This should be a Hex Bolt unless it has been replaced.
This car has a manual gearbox. The transfer box is a completely separate so called sealed unit. It has no fill point - only a drain plug. Keep getting uninformed comments like this for some reason.
On the front of the car I place them under the chassis rails on blocks of wood. At the back I put them under the spring plates again on blocks. I never use the jacking points as they will crush.
Concept Symetry Guitars if you place the stands under the spring plates where do you jack inorder to place them ? . Sorry for all the questions but Im doing my transfer case this weekend and just want to be as safe as possible. Cheers Andy
OK. For the transfer box oil change I put the jack on the spring plate and the axle stand just inboard on large blocks of wood. The front has to go a bit higher than the back and you will see in the video i had to put my axle stands up on bricks to get the 24in height I needed. As long as the handbrake is on and first gear selected it won't go anywhere on flat ground.
This is a job I have to do on my similar model, your video is very helpful. A word to the wise, bricks or concrete blocks are not safe to use when supporting a car, especially when working underneath. They can split or crumble with no warning.
You are right to take care. These new bricks are from the same plinth that supports my house. They are not going to fail. I still leave the jack in place though.
Great videos . I just bought a 06 2.0ltr D and about to do all these jobs , the car has 76k miles on it but I just changed the serpentine belt....and what a job that was :S , after the change there was a rattle sound coming from the clutch pedal and the engine feel like the idol is a bit rough however jaguar did a pully upgrade kit and this has made a HUGE difference to 1000s of peoples cats so that job is next. After changing the serpentine belt and getting the noise in the pedal box after trying to find out the noise the bloody starter motor died...so had that changed al perfect and no metal shavings in the old one. I also need a new PAS pump as well as mine has a leak on it so sounds a bit whiney when cornering so am just toping it up atm until change. The car is in pristine condition inside and out . Other than the jobs that need doing there a awesome car and it seems that these jobs start to creep in at about 65k miles.
65K is certainly the point when all the oils must be changed. The ancilliaries should get up into the 100K's but the wearing parts can go home much earlier depending on use and conditions.
I have the same squeal when driving below 20mph from cold as you describe and i think it's the central drive shaft support bearing. I squirt grease into mine through the seal on the front using a hypodermic needle on the spray can pipe. It works for a while. Re transfer box, I changed the oil and fitted a small extension (drilled 1'' hole through casting web) and radiator drain cock to empty or fill using the squeezy oil bottles. it made no difference to the cold transmission whine.
Mine was making more of a click* click* click* noise and as I sped up the noise increased in speed. I jacked it on all fours and held the throttle at 2k rpms - 4krpms. No more cracking. Sooo I assume the noise stopped when there was no load on the drivetrain. I checked for leaks and found one between the transfer box and shaft. I'm sure it is low on oil. Does the clicking indicate failure or just really low on oil?
Concept Symetry Guitars Thanks so much. No more cracking noise! Changed it with 45min to an hour! Big help you were. I am only a novice mechanic. Definitely a learning curve to these vehicles. Subscribing!
I dont think its ok to put 80w90 in a transfer case that should use 75w140. Neither is true that 80w90 is more advanced or new than 75w140. 75w140 is more advanced because there are more difference between winter viscosity and hot viscosity and you need more synthetic base to achieve this. But main reason is, even this transfer case could use 80w90, you cant put a much more liquid oil in a transfer case that was using that thick oil for more than hundred miles because part tolerances have been enlarged. When this transfer case is hot, this oil is like water for the gears, no protection for the impacts. Also, what is an old oil is precisely that 80w90. Very few cars use this oil today, the most of them uses 75w90. You have liqui molly GL5 75w140 LS that fits the spec Ford WSL-M2C 192A that is the spec this transfer case oil use.
@@johnnysevengun Its not important if it reaches 100 degrees, viscosity is a curve, not a two viscosity values. Viscosity values @ 60º are not the same in both. Also 75w140 is thicker in working temperature, that is 90% of the time. Transfer case could work at very high temperatures, in some markets they added a deflector to route aire to the transfer case, expecially in LSD versions
@@borjacanobarredo3451 Here in the UK we used to have a Castrol advert on the TV that claimed that most of the damage was done when the engine in cold. I would say that most cars do not operate at working temperature until after about 3 miles. and it is many more miles until the diff and transfer box warm up. If you live in a very hot country it may be a different story. My jag had the little plastic deflector until it was torn off going down a country lane. It has made no difference. It is up to the owner to decide which oil to use and I discuss this in my video about the Transfer box at 4:40. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NjRlXbReExE.html
@@johnnysevengun Of course is up to the user to put the oil they think is better for their cars. But i would never put 80w90 in a transfer case or diff that uses a so rare spec like this with 75w140 viscosity. If visteon, or ford, or jag thought the transfer case or diff could use 80w90 they would have used that spec because is cheaper and regular. Its like the engine, this engines uses 5w30, they could work with 15w40? Of course they could work with it, but its no the best for the engine, the best is to use the specified oil by the manufacturer because they know better than anybody the part tolerances they used. If tolerances are bigger you will need thicker oil. If you have the deflector you probably have a transfer case with limited sleep differential that could reach very high temps in seconds when a wheel in one axle is spinning and other one is static like in snow, and you should use LS oil spec (LS=Limited slip). I dont know why to take the risk using other oil, specially in the transfer case that is very problematic in this cars. You have liqui molly 75w140 LS that fits this car so sooo well that i dont understand why to use other.
@@borjacanobarredo3451 Because jacking it up on two wheels is such a pain in the arse, and if you made a RU-vid video and used the wrong oil, frankly, I think you ought to keep using the wrong oil. Then make a video if it does or doesn't explode.
Hello, thanks for your usefull videos. On mine I got a weird noise, a "clac" everytime I release the clutch a bit too fast or too hard, when a speed is engaged. I was thinking of the flywheel that is worn out. Maybe do you know what is it?
The flywheel is just a spinning disc - I suppose its bearing could wear out. I would be more suspicious of the clutch plates and springs getting near the end of their lives. Can you isolate where the noise comes from? If there is no oil in the transfer box or diff they might start to click before they start to whine. The other thing could be the Universal Joints in the prop shaft.
@@johnnysevengun Thank you for your answer! Im gonna check all that. I bought my jag to restaure it, in fact, there's lot of job left to do. Thank you again, I'm gonna check, and probably replacing transmission fluids. :)
Nice work. My newly acquired 3.0 xtype has a bit of whine at high speed in 3rd and 4th. Noticeable when decelerating in 4th the most. Its not loud and I don't really get any noise at all under 45mph. I might change the transfer box oil though as it can't hurt and cheap to do. It's on 99k and is a 2005 car, at first I just thought generic awd noise but maybe it's worn. I think I can hear the same noise on yours in the video.
Definitely change the transfer box and do the diff oil at the same time - mine was nearly dry when I did it. If yours is manual do the gearbox at the same time as they all use the same oil.
OK cheers I'll be doing an engine oil change before too long so will probably do the transfer box and diff at the same time, was it your diff that was low?
Jag Workshop Manual says WSS-M2C9 22-A1. 8.8 litres. Approximate dry capacity, includes cooler and tubes. Check the level at normal operating temperature. DO NOT OVERFILL. If it is necessary to add or change fluid, use only fluid which has been certified by the supplier as meeting the Jaguar Cars Ltd specification shown.
Finally found a place that will do it, fluid included for $105.00 - they have a vacuum and a pump so they will suck out all the old fluid and pump in the new. If I was younger I would give your method a go!!! Once again, great video for the DIY person ;-)
I'm thinking you may have over filled the transfer case. it's not suppose to be filled up to the fill hole, that's the transmission. The transfer case is to be filled with 400ml of oil, based on the Jaguar tech manual. Great video though, going to do it to mine this weekend.
I don't know where you got that figure from. You can see how much came out of it and it had done 45.000 miles like that. The transfer case only has one plug as they are supposed to factory filled!
Got it, I downloaded a Jag manual and I'm just going based on that. I'm getting conflicting information on this topic which has me a bit worried but if yours is driving well, then I think I'll follow your lead. I'd rather it have too much oil than not enough!! Thanks again.
Here is what I was referring to, wanted to get your thoughts. _lh3.googleusercontent.com/xWkU8duaW9FIT_cpVupTqfaFduFFt2-o83zQlHlZ6AQrQ-TzENfDDqJICkM9X_9fjSeWqGKTsvw_
Agree, I've also read that there's a seep hole so even if it's over filled, it'll drain. Did you notice any of that? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks!
Come to find this as I am getting the classic 'X WHINE'' but my car has has only ONE owner and 77,000 miles so I am worried. I understand the amount of oil is 660ml! I only have to road to work out in - with nutters flying past my legs at 90 MPH! I have found replacement transfer boxes on ebay BUT then you dont know what mileage cars they came from. My car was owned by my other half's father who only drove it for 40,000 miles then he passed away. She gave it to me but I cant understand WHY the whine as I only cruise around I dont boot the car? I have heard that this Ford system does tend to EAT transmissions. Its the same unit that was fitted to the Ford Granada Scorpio that the Police used. Hence WHY they stopped using them!
It definitely needs oil in the transfer box and the differential. I always wait for the cheap deals at Eurocarparts and buy a good oil for half price. The transfer box needs 700ml (cc) and the diff needs about the same so you need to buy 2 litres. The transmissions are strong but they run dry and strip the gears if left too long. Try an d find somehwere safe and falt to do the work and do them both at the same time. While you are under there sprey some dry silicone on the prop shaft bearing housing because they can whine too. If the engine and gearbox has been refilled recently drain and refill them as well. It a few hours work but you won't have to touch the trans and diff for another 60.000 miles.
Thanks for the advice, but i, really dubious about tipping a car on its side like this, the wheels are not designed to take ALL the weight on only 2 🤷🏼♂️ I have found a really useful video on you tube. Its an American guy. He drills and taps a hole and fits a drain plug and hydraulic fill valve on his transfer box so all you need to do is roll the car up on ramps, dump the oil out (its just a simple hex bolt). Put that back in and pump in new oil so im going to modify my Transfer box like his. The car sitting at that angle looks really dodgy if one of the tyres bursts under all that load and youre under it.....thats game over 😕 plus i only have a street to work in, not ideal.
@@scopex2749 Putting a valve in is probably a good idea but you only have to change the oil every 60.000 miles so you might only use it once. I have put cars up like this for 40 years now and never come to harm.
Great videos but you seem to have alot of grief with this jag, my current Alfa of the same age has given me very little and neither did the previous six. Funny how all these other manufacturers get away with building troublesome cars without the stain on their reputation.
Well in its defence. It was owned by the same person for 9 years who did not look after it and lived near the seaside hence the rust. In general the car was fine until I drove it down a hole on a building site which set off a chain reaction in the rear suspension. It is now a great car to drive, has amazing handling and brakes like a superbike. The car is now over 16 years old and had never had the oils changed!
Looks like you've done a good job there. Noticed though that there didn't appear to be the transfer case cooling duct fitted? Might be worth sourcing one and getting it fitted to keep the temps down. They're just a bit of shaped plastic, held in place with a 10mm bolt iirc.
Concept Symetry Guitars great videos! I take it the oil you're using in the differential and the transfer box can be used in a 3.0l auto car as well? I'm getting a humming sound, not sure where it's coming from. I hope to do both the differential and transfer box soon! Keep those great videos coming! Btw I'm all the way from Cape Town in South Africa.
Get them done as soon as you can. I used the same oil in both the transfer box and the diff. The auto gearbox will have a different spec. Do that as well if the mileage is over about 65K miles.
Not many decent videos atal on RU-vid really with decent drives.just like more acceleration tests. Dual carriageway driving, Maybe explain about dmf or clutch issues I keep reading about.is it certain engines of the x type or certain years that have the common problem of the clutch failing? You seem to know what your talking about. Thinking of buying one but not sure what engine to get. What sort of mpg you get, Would you buy another,how reliable they are ect. i personally like to watch people driving them and most reviews are in a.different language or 5 min video I know you did a drive in 1 of your other videos and I enjoyed that.be great to see more.thanks Great channel by the way
@@danm620 When the weather cheers up I will see what I can do. We have virtually every type of road within 10 miles. As far as I am concerned I have the best car - 2.5 V6 AWD does 30mpg. The 3.0 is much more thirsty and more expensive to insure. None of the other X Types are AWD so I am not interested in them. I will have to research the clutch as I still have the same one after 135000. I have had only one breakdown due to failed fuel pump which cost me £40 to fix. You will know from my videos that I am always fixing something but the car is now 19 years old and was abused before I had it.
