Thanks Owen. You know just as you finished building the starter carb you mentione your dad telling you that there is an adjustment on the needle. This tiny piece of info helped solve an issue with my own HD6 Starter Carb not allowing car to idle on choke.. Thank you GN
Love those SU carbs! Spent many an hour myself rebuilding and tweaking them to perfection. I know some people are intimidated by them but there is a certain degree of simplicity behind what looks like an unduly complex arrangement. Very satisfying when they are synced and adjusted properly. Richard, you have the touch! Bravo!
Perfection at its best Richard. If I may share a story on my experiences with S.U. carbs and the "...starting carburetor..." later called an Automatic Enrichment Device or AED and why leak checking is so important. Having cut my teeth as it were on the SUs on my first car, a 1963 MGB, when I later had a 1972 XJ6 that came with 1 3/4" Strombergs , I took the first opportunity I could to replace them. I found a set of 2" HD8s and manifold from a 420 and proceeded to mount them to my newly rebuilt 4.2 head. (I wanted triples but couldn't fid a set in my price range) The strombergs had had a cable actuated choke for starting enrichment - the HD8s came with an AED. I rebuilt the carbs much as you have shown - cleaned and polished and with "high performance" individual foam air filters. They looked and sounded great if not purely original. to ware the AED
Most of my story seems to have dropped off. I don't feel like retyping it all over again. The punch line is to follow RMO's advice and example of leak checking before, during and after assembly or your pride and joy Jaguar may go up in flames.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Yes, the AED had been malfunctioning unbeknown to me and the story I tried to relate (not sure why most of it disappeared) involved a 1600 mile road trip the day after completing the valve job/carb upgrade. The outward bound part of the trip was fraught with carb problems as I tried to tune them on the road. Nothing was successful in getting them to run smoothly or provide the performance I expected. Finally, while on the return trip, I had made a stop at a factory in Connecticut ( I lived outside of Toronto at the time) on behalf of my employer. While there, as I went to move my car at one point, I was informed by a screaming factory worker that my car was on fire. When I popped the hood, I discovered indeed the engine bay was ablaze. The AED had begun dumping raw fuel on the starter motor - a bad mix at any time. After a panicked few minutes as I found a fire extinguisher in the factory (nobody seemed to know where they were), I got the fire out. I was now faced with a torched engine on a Saturday afternoon in an area not known for classic British car parts and service (unlike Victoria on your Island). A few phone calls later determined I was on my own if I wanted to be back on the road anytime soon. I proceeded to field strip and rebuild the carbs and almost all of the other rubber, plastic and wire stuff in the general vicinity of the right side of the engine bay. I had to pull out windshield washer lines to make new vacuum hoses; re-melt and hand form the plastic damper caps on the carb domes; borrow a fuel line from the second fuel tank to patch up one in the bay; and rewire a few essential things. My fancy dual foam high performance air filter assemblies were toast. Having determined the AED was at fault, it found itself left out of the rebuild and is still likely in the woods there in Connecticut. Fortunately, having owned British cars before and this XJ6 for about two years at this time, I had learned to carry my tool kit and some spares where ever I went. It took about three hours or so but when I turned the key, it started right up. A few more minutes to balance and tune and I was off. Surprisingly, the car ran faultlessly all the way home and delivered the performance gain I had expected from the 2" S.U.s. And so I appreciated your instructions to your viewers to leak check before installing the carbs. I have to admit my modifications were not covered in my factory repair manual and as my model of car had a cable choke, the AED was not even mentioned in it. It was my own inexperience that led to the failure but I still have bad feelings towards that AED. Once I replaced the destroyed air filter assemblies and put proper bits back in place of the jury rigged pieces, the car ran exceptionally well. Love your videos and wish I had known about you when I lived in Courtenay. I might have come looking for a job with you. I currently run a restoration shop in a museum in Alberta restoring antique coaches and carriages. I miss the smells and sounds of the other kind of horse power.
@@jeremymasterson5818 great story it's always a pleasure to overcome adversity. Do you still have a Jaguar? Restoring coaches? I will have to send some ash-framed British cars your way!!
There is something very satisfying about watching your methods and approach to working. If there's one thing I've learned is that there is no point in rushing the assembly. Take your time, make sure all the components are properly prepared, make sure the workspace is properly prepared, take it one step at a time, and enjoy the hell out of it!!!
Just wonderful job Richard. I also cad plated the mechanisms, bolts and nuts on my XK 150, not original but seemed practical. In a way I regret finishing the car with Sikkins two pack, which although glorious in BRG, takes away from that ‘50s duco look. OE white with red trim looks terrific and your shut lines look great, critical with a light body colour. I was compelled to undergo a bare metal body off restoration due to extensive light rust lurking beneath a coating of bitumen over the entire under body and chassis. I attempted to recreate originality but did incorporate a Guy Broad alloy radiator expansion tank to prevent coolant loss. I wish I could have met you when I visited Victoria a few years ago.
First time I have seen that done.... Wonderful...... Great to see a Guy that knows what he is doing.... Also good to see the skills being passed down the Generations... Good Old Dad.... As far as Original/New..... Original is best, except for Safety or Reliability, no point restoring a car if it keeps breaking down or is unsafe.... She is looking Fantastic.... :-)))
Thank God you´re back! For a moment I thought you had given up on making these wonderful videos. They´re very educational, interesting and entertaining. I´ve learned a lot by watching them, Mr. Owen. Thank you.
Richard, this car is utterly beautiful. (I have viewed a number of 150s here in the U.K. over many years and I have to say yours is promising to be one of, or possibly THE finest I’ve ever seen!) Very best regards to you, your Dad and all that have so far contributed to this exquisite example. 👍🙏🇬🇧
Epoxy matt finish on the radiator works really well, more efficient than black gloss too which also reflects any imperfections on the rad. core fins. Really tasteful build with some practical non obvious technical modifications. 😋
Richard, your attention to detail and efforts to maintain authenticity are amazing! I only wish I could financially realize the possibility of sending my MK2 project to have you and your dad perform your craftsmanship upon it. Sir William Lyons would smile with pride seeing the work the two of you bestow on the marque! Greetings from the state of Washington and wishing you and yours the best of the holiday season.
Once again, an excellent episode. I had a bad experience with a Grose Jet in my ‘78 Midget (wouldn’t seal properly), but other folks swear by them. Whatever, seeing this XK come back to life has been a genuine treat, and I look forward to seeing it on the road again.
When I tune my XK140 carbs I use 2 handy devices. One measures the vacuum at each air cleaner intake. The second is called a colortune. It is a spark plug with a clear glass window that allows you to view the color of ignition in each cylinder.You can compare the back 3 cylinders with the front 3( I have the stock 2 carb setup as original ).Then readjust vacuum accordingly. Very precise syncronization. Your video is the most helpful I have viewed. Thanks, from Calif.
Another super vid, thx so much for all your excellent work Richard. The car looks (& sounds!) great 👌. The owner has to be really pleased with the progress you're making. Looking forward to seeing it completed and on the road.
Very nice Richard . Very nice indeed ! I'm sure Dave from Classic Car Cave will be very happy if his turns out this well . He's certainly giving it his all ! Thanks Richard .
Richard, Sounds real sweet for me the 3.4 seems to be the sweetest sounding XK engine of them all, Car looks stunning i hope mine turns out so well, Cheers Dave
Wow...another 30 mins just flew by...I'm just loving this series, your 1st class efforts and obvious enthusiasm is contagious. Just great video's Richard, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us all. Marc
It's so great to watch a master at work, beautifully done Richard. I've had a couple of mid 60's 'S' types with those cold start carburettors, they never failed in many miles of driving.
Loving this stuff. God the carbs are so complex but you put it back together so beautifully. How do you remember it all. You really inspire me to work on my car in this detailed way. Amazing work. If I was the client and saw these videos I would be so impressed.
This series is one of my favorite builds, the car and your work are just fantastic. For anyone interested D3Sshooter has a really great carb build video with good explanations of how all the different components of the carb work. One final thing I am wondering why Jag never put a sintered brass filter on the starter carb air inlet, it would have helped keep debris out and also shushed that hiss a little.
Is there anything you and your father do not know about these beautiful cars? Once again a brilliant video and workmanship. I look forward to see it finished.
I always look forward to seeing the next instalment of this amazing restoration. At the risk of repeating myself, the attention to authenticity and detail is stunning. Can’t wait to see it on its maiden voyage. Thanks for sharing such quality content in your videos from England 🏴.
I love your restorations, and your attention to detail. Please just remember it's only Aluminum in the USA, everywhere else (yes, even in Canada) it's Aluminium :))
Richard, Great video and a great job. the car looks amazing. I have nothing but praise but I thought you would want to know that unlike the cam cover nuts, the breather nuts didn't have copper washers under them, just plain steel washers. Also, you probably know that the exhaust manifolds need curing otherwise the coating will very quickly pop off. I'm sure you are aware of this. If not then contact me and I'll let you know the routine. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Tim, great to hear from you. That breather cover is constant source of leaks. I have taken apart a few original engines, including my junk engine, and found the factory fitted copper washers on that area.
I dunno... "duck egg green" sounds a bit tame to me! Why don't we dub it "griffin egg green" or something a bit more respectable? Hey, perhaps even "jaguar bile green"?! Seriously, just marvelous to watch you doing excellent work here, and great attention to detail. Everything about these cars is just ART. Superb stuff!
One trick to clean/level the carb flanges is to use a block of MDF (Engineered and true/flat surface) with Wet and Dry paper to get a super clean/level surface (UK method)...
Had carb issues on my Series 3 E-Type. Using wrong brake fluid was an eye opener. Had to drop rear end myself to rebuild calipers. On one occasion an impatient oil delivery driver found me blocking his progress. I jumped into the drivers seat and luckily remembered I had drained the oil. Sorry pal....you have to wait ....
These videos have been very helpful. Thank you! I'm Restoring a 1957 XK150 OTS. I'm now installing a new wiring harness and your episode on wiring was great! There is very little information available on the correct routing of the harness. Can you tell me how the main dash harness is routed? Does it go through the same area as the heater hoses? Or the box in front of that? Is it best to start on the driver's side and snake all the way through and then out the (very small) hole to the fuse box? Any guidance provided would really be appreciated.
Always enjoy seeing you working on the car. I have the HD4 Carb., and I have the Soldered Brass type float in it, which I found sunk in the float chamber, because we are now forced to use E10 fuel here in Thailand. This fuel seems to rot the soldered joint in the brass float. So I was interested in your choice of the solid float. Is this a 'new' standard float from SU ? because I must find out about these and get some ! You learn something new EVERY day. Cheers, Stu.
Yippie ye! A new XK150 video! It's always a pleasure watching you doing things correctly. A professional question - maybe you know: You have held a triple carb setup just for fun to the engine in one other episode. As far as I have read the 3.4 S is using the B-Type head - the 3.8 the straight port head. Does the B-Type head (which is to my findings far better than its reputation) take up the 3 X HD8 intakes just like that? The water passages look different - maybe you have an educated opinion on that, regards Christopher
I just answered my question by getting up from my desk - at least for a bit - I held a MK9 3.8 intake manifold to a B-Type head and they don't match at all. I tried a E-Type head - the holes matched, but the coolant passages were uncovered. These should be pretty similar to the 150 S manifolds. On the other hand I haven't come across a 3.4 Straight port head so far. The 3.8 has a increased bore so I guess it should have a different head - shouldn't it? Or is the difference so small it virtually does not matter. Any ideas?
So the XK150S did indeed use different cylinder head similar to the E-Type but the Carb setup was different as the triple SU XK150S setup used a starting carb. Anything is possible with mix and match with enough time and money. We tried to buy the XK150S head and carbs for this project but outbid at 7KUSD.
@@RichardMichaelOwen Yes the prices have increased quite drastically. The last carb setup plus cyl. head I have been offered was well above 12k USD. My grey 150 will definitelly stay all original - the Engine is mint, so are the carbs. The black one (from BAT - you know the car) I am considering to upgrade to make it more attractive. I have a manifold from a MK10 which is 95% like the XK150, but lacking the head. just in case you come a cross a reasonable straight port head (3.8) please give me a shout. Chris
Regarding the float chamber needle valve I'd go for the ball bearing type over the rubber tipped ones...here in the UK more ethanol is being added to petrol which will degrade some types of rubber...not sure if US is going the same way tho
Mr. Owen, having just bought a 1950 Riley RMA with a 1 1/2 Litre engine and having it restored "Nut N´Bolt", might I ask your advice as to what method to use to clean the engine case along with the DOHC Rocker covers etc.? Would you suggest walnut shells as well? When I´m done I´ll have a 250 kg monster with a rinky dink SU H2 carb...and 60 hp but I´ll be cruising at 20 smilespg...!
I would clean any aluminum with walnut, but if it's heavily corroded you may need to cut the surface to new aluminum and glass bead at low pressure is best. As for the block itself grab a oil tray and wash it when solvent. Depending on ncam bearings the engine might get hot tank dipped at the machine shop?
Hello Richard! The 6 cylinder engine purrs like a one. That's how it should be. The Stromberg carburetors are a science in their own right. If you are not familiar with this area, you should stay away from it. Wonderful work from you. Best regards from Hans from Austria and Cheers 🇦🇹🍻
@@johndavey72 Sorry, I am from Austria. My English is not so good. The carburetors look exactly like they did on my Cooper over 44 years ago. What kind of a brand is that? Best regards from Hans 🇦🇹