Hi Richard Another excellant episode. Please percevere with boot seal attached to boot (trunk) lid, don't be tempted to fit the seal in the gutter channel of the tonneau no where for the rain to go if the channel is full of seal. Lower rear seal is attached to the body on the rear valance panel, under the lip. But don't forget to trim the ends of the seal so there is a gap equal to the width of the channel at either end. That allows the rain water to escape down the valace panel.
If the Automobile is going to be a driver, upgrade to a 5-speed and modern brakes. I try to make reliable and drive-able. 70 years of Technology is light years in automobiles. I’m so glad I found your channel, your my people. Cheers from Chicago!
Love your working conditions and standard of workmanship, confirms without your experience, contacts and knowledge these cars are way past the amateur to achieve what to me is the only acceptable standard of work. It also illustrates why the cost is what it is.
Hi Richard, You will want to start taping on the leading edge of the wing before applying the weatherstrip adhesive which will kill your paint! Another step I did not see was to weight the doors to simulate the frames, regulators, glass, door cards, and locks. This way, the blocking phase will be more accurate and your gaps on't change after paint. I used to sell a great deal of the Wurth weatherstrip adhesive- then I got a real job! haha See you at Pebble. Early wake-up call!
Thomas, great to hear from you. I've never masked up my glue, it is however a great idea thanks. As for weight in doors that should be standard practice but it sometimes gets missed.
Amazing attention to detail. Your patience is incredible, which shows on your results. Beautiful work on these fantastic cars! Was getting impatient for your next episode, but was worth the wait!!!
OK I am only 22 seconds into this video and I have to say it's so good to see your happy smiling face and cheerful voice. And the XK150 of course. What a complicated boot latch system, I just had fun with a 1965 S Type boot lock system and I thought that was bad, this XK takes the biscuit.
Thanks Richard, it is always a pleasure looking at the quality of your work. I am so grateful for you making the experiences and sparing me the headache with the ball joints on the restoration of my 150. I have edited my post from here - i wrote some rubbish: As mentioned in an earlier conversation with you I have purchased a surplus of a restoration company. There I had found a set of brand new caps - made of fibreglass like composit - just in the shape and size of the rubber boots. So i figured they come instead of the rubber boots - but they don't looks like the ball joints rest in those.
So happy to see the body back and the attention to detail that’s going into this project. I served my panel beating apprenticeship working on Jaguars back in the mid 60’s and this takes me back to those years. Really looking forward to seeing the next episode. Thanks for sharing from the U.K. 🇬🇧.
Fascinating stuff as usual Richard thank-you very much! Really well shot, edited & narrated 👏👏. Reading the comments it's nice to see folks appreciating your attention to detail and the work you're putting into producing these. Just doing the restoration is more than enough of a challenge; creating a VLOG of the process is going above & beyond, thx again 😊.
Wonderful stuff Richard, I just love that heavy chrome rear number plate surround, it really shouts out: “Caution my friend you’re following a British Jaguar “ ....😊🇬🇧
Excellent video, great skill, better than the original craftsmen, I know my dad was one! Back at Jaguar they used to have an engine rebuild service. The craftsmen there used to rebuild all manner of Jaguar engines but when they were testing them they used to place a thrupenny piece on the engine block, Rev the engine up and then drop the throttle. If the coin fell over the engine was stripped and built again!!! That was the level of their perfection. 👍🏻🇬🇧🤓
It is truly lovely to watch your respect and patience with this amazingly beautiful old, fussy British motor car. It is a pleasure to watch your skill, love and attention to detail. Thanks for sharing all of this.
Good to see this update. I imagined you'd just re-fit all the components, but wow! all these little problems, the ball-joints, the seals - it must be so frustrating for you, but you certainly seem to be on top of things. Roll on the next installment!
I appreciate your attention to detail. Some people might say it's overkill, I say it shows respect to those skilled workers that put together that beautiful car together. Can't wait to see her altogether and driving around town.
I didn't understand why it was so critical for those calipers to be centered, then I watched it again and realized the calipers don't float. It will be interesting to see how the problem is solved. Thank you.
Absolutely gorgeous. I had to go back to the first video of this car, and there is no comparison between now and then. I admire you putting back as much of the original as possible.
Well I just hope we don’t have to wait as long for the next episode as we’ve waited for this one. What a job your doing. One things for sure. It’s gonna be a lot better than anything that ever came off that Jaguar production line. Well done Man. It’s looking beautiful
I worked on Jaguars from the Mk2 models on. The bodywork was a nightmare at times, lead loading to refine the panel fit and gaps. This is going to be one very nice car when it’s back together.
Wow, great paint/body job! Tedious work indeed Richard, I do think you'll 'conquer' this one too. Looking forward to more. P.S. Looks like I somehow missed the episode with the engine rebuild. I'll watch this tomorrow. Thank you!
Wow can feel for you on parts issues , On my 1970 E-type having occasional problems with new parts as well during my 3500 hour resto . Keep up the great work looking forward to seeing you at a Brititsh car event in BC hopefully in 2021
gotta say that hidden 'split pin' (cotter pins are on bicycle pedal, that the trouble with being English we have our own language :) ) is a pain in the arse I have dealt with it on many E Types, and glad to see you put it in the correct way around (but I would expect nothing less from you :) )
Think the XK150 is a really beautiful car, while it is actually considered "the ugly duckling" over here in Europe. Also, really happy to see your craftsmanship and attention to the details - owner of the XK should be really happy!
Hi Richard. People have no idea why progress can be so slow . You really didn't deserve or expect the caliper /ball joint issue. What is of concern is that the average enthusiast will not be aware of the hazards of these ill fitting and potentially deadly sub-standard parts. l include myself in that remark . The seals are a pain as well ....it's very frustrating ! The client's assume you're the one at fault ! Been there, seen that , done that ! I thought the gasket around the no plate plinth looked over large but that may have been the camera angle. At a different tangent . I enjoyed your observations on that '65 e-type that was for sale a few days ago. Beautiful car but l would have rectified all the damage and extra holes before putting it on the market. Thanks Richard. Take care and stay safe.
Hi John, I confirmed and checked some original cars. That is indeed the correct 'plinth' pvc seal. Was tempted to go with a body-color vinyl piping, but it wouldn't have been right.
I installed the Zeus brakes on the mk 2 four pot in the front and the rear used the 2 pot using the original brackets and front and back almost perfect alignment.
@@RichardMichaelOwen I would highly recommend them. With the more powerful booster they are amazing. The disc brake emblem on the rear bumper means it. I’m enjoying the videos thanks.
********Where the "strut rod spring unit" that assists opening the boot lid attaches inside the trunk, it's bending and flexing the metal body sheet-metal/stamping. In a very short amount of time, it's going to fatigue and tear the metal. You'll have to create and install a metal backing plate to re-enforce the body stamping.***** This is visible in the video.
don't put that sound insulation on the roof because the front pillars will crack, you can put anything that's light and thick enough as long as you glue it to the metal - hail storm will sound like a lullaby in this car believe me :D
That trunk ( boot ) support strut looks like a builders "Acrow " prop. I dont think it will ever brake its so over engineered. Typical Jaguar design. Lovely stuff and well done Richard yet again. BTW is that Dad making tea for you ?
That caliper headache reminds me of my chopper front caliper and the shimming that was required to get the split right in the middle of the rotor.Pain in the jackson.l think you're going to need spacers + shims for those calipers to work.Be worrth the effort,but do some checking within the jag community on the quality/reliability of said calipers.lf they're from the US,sometimes the hype doesn't stack up!
Richard, Great information and top tips, Is the chassis wiring in place as i couldn't see any looms anywhere. Running the chassis looms is something i am very keen to see as it is a job we need to do on my chassis. The shut lines are perfect if i get mine to this level i will be very happy man. My only negative is the body trim seal on the rear wings for me the seal is much to large in diameter compared to the original but it is easily changed if your customer prefers the more slimmer delicate factory look, SNG Barratt have them in stock just in case. Sorry i hope you don't mind me mentioning the body seal but the finish on this car is to such a high standard that i will bet my bottom dollar other XK owners will point it out lol. Cheers Dave
Hi Dave, I'll do my next video on wiring then, i'm sold! Yeah that piping does looks large. Would you believe we recovered the original cord? Not sure about early xk150 to be honest.
Richard, My OTS is the 191st first made and i have the original piping rubber wich is U/S of course and it‘s the same as the new piping i got from SNG barratt. Looking forward to the loom fitting video as i need all the help i can get with electrics lol. I am going to fit the chassis loom while the body is off just to make it easier to insert it in the chassis members. Cheers Dave
@@ClassicCarCave Dave that's great so you're car has all the early details like the central signal Switch and this dreaded boot Strut. The piping on this car is 10mm
Richard, I will check the one i have and let you know in the next video, The spring strut it has but not sure on the signal switch ? I am going by the numbers on the Heritage certificate and have a matching number car well i did till i changed to a 5 speed box lol. Cheers Dave
Really enjoying your videos. Aren't those felt seals behind the rotors supposed to be soaked in oil before installation? Edit to add that I particularly enjoyed that you are showing us things like the ball joint issue. I've put in plenty of them but it never occured to me to blue the tapers.
You're an incredible perfectionist! What I don't understand is that dry sand blasting in EP6. You said it was blasted back "to bare white metal" and indeed it looked white. But bare metal isn't white, it's silver coloured. I don't know any steel that looks white. Is there some? Please explain.
Thank you for the xk150 series. I am restoring my xj6c and I found it troublesome to get appropriate weatherstripping. What is your source of these rubber parts?
Yes I would say that you guys are doing a great job on that car. But I have one question. Why in the world are you using Silly cone on top of the paint as a sealer? Silicone eats paint overtime.. You should be using a ureathane or 3m butyl rubber for that
@@RichardMichaelOwen hi Richard yeah I just wanted to mention that to you. There are acids in the silly cone that will eat the paint over time. I would not even use on gasket material as well. I have seen this stuff travel through out the engine as well. I use a gasket adhesive such as permatex aviation which is black. It has soft cotton brush on the end of it. It helps with keeping the gasket on for assembly. I have restored 13 corvairs in my life so my practices have worked well. I hope this helps👌 I will continue with watching your show. You do good work and have the great details in your work. By they way are you interested in showing how you time an engine and why you use for analyzers and the such?
Really helpful video.......I am buying a real rust bucket XK150 S Roadster and desperately need help. I need to do exactly what you dd on the hard top........where are you in Canada> BC ? Would love to communicate with you. the engine needs a real professional to totally rebuild
Antony great to hear from you. We are in Sidney BC right near the YYJ airport. Call the shop anytime 2506554338. Would love to hear about your project.
would it be possible to get measurements on the front end of the xk? like the exact distance between the headlights and those lower oval openings under the headlights? thanks in advance
500 hours for the boddy work & paint job?! Did I understand correctly? Also, what are you doing with all the parts you have changed? (Are you giving a nice box full of them to the owner, just in case something would happened to one of the new parts? or if he wants to sell it to auction and need to give it to the next owner?)
Just great,but why did it take so long.And did I hear you say 500 Canadian $ to complete the paintwork,wow in the UK that would be 2500 $. I cann't wait for E8.
Yes would probably be fine to shove them on and forget about it. Depends on the caliper piston spec. I suspect that's what most shops would do, but it's worth investigating I think. Also the manufacturer of those brakes should be designing them the other way, to take spacer washers and allow an accurate fit.
