I think that you could use a 12-point socket, as well, to set the hoop that last couple of millimeters, and it won't touch more than a tiny bit of the handle...
Awesome set of 3 videos. I have recently (after 30 odd years of furniture making with western pattern chisels) bought a 30mm Japanese chisel. I have managed to sharpen it with the help of this video, and of course I promptly cut myself 😂
Sorry i have to say Please don't use a iron/metal hamer on a chisel with worden handel, if it is not equipped for. It's not healthy for the chisel. Use a wooden mallet please. Speciale with that kind of chisels they are not to be used with a iron/metal hammer. Please please please don't do it.
Hi Lesley, your comment certainly reflects the traditional wisdom around Western chisels, so if it is ok with you, I would like to address it in some depth. The entire purpose of the hoop on a Japanese chisel is to allow the chisel to be struck with a metal hammer. The genno is the traditional tool for driving Japanese chisels, which is usually a steel hammer (but sometimes another metal) with a hardened exterior. For hundreds of years, Japanese craftsmen have been happy to drive their chisels with steel hammers. What you say is entirely correct, in that Western chisels with socket-style handles usually crack and break, while those with tang-style handles eventually fail as well. There are Western chisels (usually tang-style) with reinforcing metal hoops at either end of the handle, however, all that I have seen use a fairly thin metal (often copper) which does not impart much strength. The hoops on Japanese chisels are usually at least 2mm thick steel that has been welded together, which is immensely strong. I have never seen a hoop fail. By driving the hoop down the handle a tight fit is ensured, and the timber that would normally be fatigued by metal hammer strikes finds itself immediately reinforced by very strong steel in every direction. At the other end of the handle, where the head of the chisel is inserted, this same reinforcement takes place. The timber around the tang finds itself immediately reinforced by steel in all directions, as a conical ferrule is used as well. Therefore as long as a straight-grained timber is used, the timber handle is well protected from metal hammer blows. We have had three separate Japanese woodworkers teach in our workshop, and all have specified metal genno hammers for their students. In our teahouse class, we were asked to source 750g hammer heads, but as we couldn't find any affordably, we were able to substitute 570g hammer heads. These are big, heavy hammers, and are considered normal for use on a carpentry site when working on heavy frames. I am sorry for such a long reply, but I thought it important to clarify why the process in the video is necessary at all. I wish you much happy woodworking. Kind regards, Mitch
