rule for raw selvedge denim don't even think about sizing down buy waist size snug but not tight if the are sanforized denim. Buy them comfortable if they are unsaforized as the waist will shrink 1 inch then slowly stretch back 1 inch and a bit more. legs buy them atleast 3 inches long 4 if you like to cuff them chunky. u will lose 2 inches in length usually. Hope this helps anyone getting into selvedge denim. If something says one wash they should fit right from the start.
been wearing my Samurai S5000BK since 2007 and Iron Heart IH634SR since 2009. have had other raw/selvedge jeans since then, but these are the two that I keep going back to. they've just faded perfectly with me over the years and are still going strong. and even though my personal style and fashion preferences have evolved over time, a well fitting pair of raw selvedge denim can go with any wardrobe. definitely worth the investment.
Came back from Japan a couple of weeks ago. Visited the Japan Blue Jeans Store in Shibuya, and copped an indigo chore jacket. I’m also awaiting on my indigo/black 25oz Iron Heart 634 Straight cut. I bought a pair of 2000 Evisu Jeans in Daikanyama 2 years ago. Didn’t get a chance to go this time, but I recently read that they don’t even sell Made in Japan jeans there anymore since the major international marketing push. I hope that’s not true. Would love to see videos of the best hidden denim shops throughout Tokyo. Maybe even interview people throughout the city of their fading journey.
Evisu, I don't believe does made in Japan anymore. Which is unfortunate but there are a lot more brands that kill it. I'll talk to some denim shops to get some insider content going on.
My latest denim is document denim trousers which are a Korean brand using Japanese sea island cotton denim. I also own ONI and warehouse. They are all so interesting in their own way. I started with Uniqlo, sauce Zhan and APC but made my way eventually to Japanese denim
I have momos, oni, and samurais and dollar for dollar Uniqlo is undefeated. You can't get a better pair of jeans at that price point. Those Edwin's look niiiiice. Nothing wrong with a little stretch
What about sugar cane and Iron heart? They look very premium and traditional! I wanna buy some in EU BUT CAN'T FIND SHOPS where to try them on in Italy!
historical japanese denim brand just good craftsmanship but the cut isnt that compatible to new modren cut and often sidnt meet my needs, so ill go for a bit of both
My personal opinion, top tier Japanese denim goes to Pure Blue Japan and The Flat Head, just my experiences anyway. PBJ just kills it with slubbiness, dyes and their AI range is fantastic. TFH always kills it with feeling substantial, in each of their garments.
IMO TFH is likely the best denim overall in Japan. There's really nothing like it. PBJ is probably in the top 5 at the very least. The problem with "some" Japanese denim is that it can be incredibly dedicated to a specific look (looking at you Studio D' Artisan) and recreating that. Brands that focus on the "make" and "feel" while maintaining some uniformity are just more approachable. Fullcount is good too if you haven't tried, and Sugarcane is amazing but it tends to have a very high inseam.
Uniqlo denim has the worst strong smell from the formadelhyde in their dyes esp the dark and black dyes. it was so pungent and gross and present in all the uniqlo jeans I’ve bought in the past that I will never buy uniqlo denim again. i just stay away from uniqlo bc it’s still fast fashion at the end of the day.
i recenetly got my first pair of raw selvedge denim! 😃 It was a pair of sugar cane 1966 jeans from self edge. I should've done more research because I realized I overpaid for these.... but I do enjoy my pair and now know I can get these cheaper/for a better price through other various websites.
I got so many Japanese New Era Hats, especially Tokidoki Lots of Kid Robot as well. Japanese brands rock. They have an amazing fashion sense/taste. Anime alone shows how artistic they are.
Thanks, great video ! Back from Japan where the Yen is still going down, had a pair of Momotaro for about 160 USD and a Japan Blue for 155 USD, absolutely crazy prices !
I just got my first pair of Momotaro about 2 weeks ago, 15.7 OZ high tapered, shipped from a jeans dealer in Munich, Germany I paid 279,95 Euro ($303.28) and the most I saw on the Momotaro Website where 285 Euro but it might cost taxes at the border. I have worn my Momotaro's three times so far, a bit heavy but very, very well made. They have a pair of silk denim in their store for $600 at the moment, but luckily not in my size ... Yeah, I will get more Momotaro for sure.
I recently acquired a GYPSY & Sons denim pants,japan made...I thrifted the item by accident..googled the item and it's not cheap....Reggie I'd like to know you're thoughts on this brand?
I've stepped into the Big Man type shops in Japan on the whole and struggle to find fits for a 38 waist. It makes it harder to get good value in Japan when I'm jeans shopping. I've had bad cheap baggy local release Edwins, some deadly vintage export quality Edwins in Sydney. There's a chasm between the two! I actually had some nice black stretch Edwins too, kinda skater cut, they were dope. I have been wanting some Selvedge Neuw jeans for ages (either Lous or Studios, they're both great cuts) and haven't been able to find my size in a year or so of waiting. But while I was in Japan last I noticed the Selvedge jeans at Uniqlo so grabbed a pair. They're actually nice, kinda mid baggy (similar to the Studio Neuws) , dark blue w gold, they feel and fit great. My niece in law who works at Neuw spotted them straight away and commented on my sweet Selvedge :) I back em.
Since the Yen is relatively weak as of today I was able to buy 3 pairs of Momotaro Jeans and a jacket. I was thinking of getting cheaper brands but I spent all my money on Momotaro.
Umm that's odd to say. Everything deteriorates over time. The best cars require care and attention, the best furniture, the best leather, the best artwork, the best anything still requires "effort" to take care of it. Is the Mona Lisa of "high quality"? Sure, but it requires EFFORT to keep it hanging on the walls for hundreds of years. Clothing deteriorates faster than pretty much anything so the extra effort insures its longevity. And its not even that hard. Simply cleaning something the right way is "effort".
Always buy your size. While shrinkage certainly contracts your denim, wearing it expands it considerably. If you’re caring for it correctly you’ll experience very little shrinkage per wash. As the denim continues to expand it’ll require less worry when it comes to shrinkage. Depending on the look you want this can change as well. If you want pronounced fades you’ll have more washes i.e. 1 wash per month 3-4 wears a week for at least 1 hour will fade your denim very quickly. This will certainly create more shrinkage but the constant expanding and contracting will alleviate most issues.
Raw selvedge jeans comes in two different types: Sanforized and Unsanforized. Sanforized mean that it's already pre-shrunk while unsanforized is in its' raw state. Sanforized could shrink up to 3% while unsanforized shrinks like 10% or more. Shrinkage occurs both length and waist. If you have expensive raw selvedge denim, never put them in washing machine or the dryer. Hand wash them and let it hang to dry. The spinning cycle in washing machine shrinks it alot and the heat from dryer also shrink it ALOT. I mean ALOT
I have tried the Uniqlo selvedge last year but they had the same problem as the rest of the uniqlo jeans I've bought, across many different styles and fabric ratios: they lasted about 4-5 months before they developed a stress rip along the *ahem* 'middle' seam. Not a problem with any of my western-brand denim even at similar price points (buying on sale), which seems to get wear in the same place but last 1.5-2 years. It's happened with every pair of Uniqlo jeans for over a decade and scared me away from investing in higher-end JP denim... I can deal with it for 4000y/pair. I'm not a large dude a 175cm/75kg and I know tons of JP guys my size, so not sure what's up with that.
Weird question but... How large are your thighs? Also how you walk makes a difference too. Many JP dudes may be your size but you are 175cm/75kg for a Japanese person at 175cm you're likely between 58-70kg. Japanese people tend to be incredibly ectomorphic leading to slimmer cuts. My suggestion is to go to the tailor and adjust the inseam. That's where a ton of those problems start.
I have lots of Japanese denim, but for the last year or so have been wearing cords, chinos or easy climbing pants ,but today I bought some Samurais just because of the imprints on the rivets! Rivet, that are on the inside!