Japanese training secrets with Tomoa & Meichi Narasaki

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Today's session is mind blowing to me, climbing with the strongest brothers in the world, Tomoa and Meichi Narasaki.
Also a massive thank you to Naoto for helping me out with translations when we were there.
Go give him a follow on instagram!
/ naoto13.climbing_
Timestamps:
0:00 Introduction
2:55 Why are Japanese so good at climbing?
4:20 Spray wall session
10:14 Strength or technique?
11:00 Competition boulder training
19:07 One arm pull ups and strength training
20:14 More comp bouldering
22:07 How to train fingers
22:30 Subscribe!
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FIlmed by Cordelia Mangia Jansson
Edited by Emil Abrahamsson

Опубликовано:

30 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 223

@EmilAbrahamsson 24 дня назад

I want to give huge thank you to Tomoa, Meichi and Akiyo for hosting me in their gym. If you want to help me out with that, then head over to their RU-vid channel and give them a subscription. In hindsight I wish I would've also gotten more of Akiyo in this episode, but luckily you can find more of her on their channel! All three of them were incredibly kind and fun to climb with, I'm very grateful for this session. Also, thank you to The North Face for sponsoring this episode, if you want a chance to win the free duffle bag then here's the form ▶︎ forms.gle/bgyUhQEDACAnpBH96 Lastly, I want to give another thank you to Naoto for helping us with translations! He was a great guy, and if you want to give him a follow on instagram here it is: instagram.com/naoto13.climbing_/

@urgaguer 24 дня назад

You'll simply have to go back and make a video with just Akiyo! Wouldn't hear any complaints from us haha

@Hopesfallout 24 дня назад

Kudos for pointing it out Emil! It always feels a bit off when Akiyo hangs out in background while the boys do the talking - When she's actually the most successful climber in the room by such a huge margin, it's not even funny :D

@EmilAbrahamsson 24 дня назад

@@Hopesfallout I totally agree, falls on me and how I planned the video. Would love to make a video focusing on Akiyo in the future!

@Zeus-bn3nc 24 дня назад

Crazy how Tomoa has so much control that he can immediately do exactly what Emil is doing wrong to show him!

@jonnes__4657 24 дня назад

You should watch his videos at TAMY Climbing... you can learn a lot there. .

@wsxgfhccr 23 дня назад

If I'm not wrong, Tomoa came from a gymnastics background. Really does show in the way he moves so fluidly in dynamic and co-ordi boulders!

@tvdw4055 23 дня назад

@wsxgfhccr I’m not sure it has anything to do with his background in gymnastics. Movement patterns and proprioception related to gymnastics is tied with predictable and repeatable patterns. This is very different from climbing where there is constant variation and you need to adapt on the fly, especially for comps. For instance gymnasts usually don’t perform well on ninja warrior type obstacle courses whereas people coming from Parkour or even skating often perform better.

@adzicents 24 дня назад

Hey that was also Matsura Ryo! He's part of the national setting team and was recently in Australia for a stint of 6mo setting with my local gym. Was an absolute privilege to have someone of his caliber involved in our local scene down under.

@jonathanmay6267 24 дня назад

Hey which gym was this?

@IProAquaFX 24 дня назад

If I'm right in thinking it was 9D Alexandria

@RileyCrusher 24 дня назад

He was with Boulder Lab in Melb

@euphoria667 23 дня назад

@@RileyCrusher Wish he came to Urban Climb in Collingwood

@xieamber478 22 дня назад

@@RileyCrusher can i please ask when and which boulder lab please? thank you!

@franmartinruiz3662 24 дня назад

Speaking about anime with the Narasaki brothers... that's a climbing achievement right there

@xinsanedefeatx 24 дня назад

No one gonna mention how crazy it is that Tomoa was doing a triple bodyweight deadlift just to train for speed climbing?!?

@EmilAbrahamsson 24 дня назад

Mind blowing

@takuyamatsuda7214 23 дня назад

Right? 396 when it seems like deadlifting isn’t really part of their regular training (or only was for a short while) seems insane

@gijswiersema 24 дня назад

3:10 I will now forever see Tomoa as the real life Luffy

@ArchibaldVonSkip 24 дня назад

Narasakis : All right, let's go lead climb now. Lowest grade set is 8b+. Emil : _nervous chuckling_

@noone-ld7pt 23 дня назад

Hooly shit, love that Tomoa is entering the colaboration circle on youtube. Congrats on this insane Colab!

@andrzejjagielski9728 24 дня назад

I can't wait to see Tomoa try Burden!!

@nickkealiiclimbs 24 дня назад

This is so cool! What a great opportunity, stoked you got to climb with them

@EmilAbrahamsson 24 дня назад

Thanks mate, so was I haha!

@NiteFall7 13 дней назад

The only sport that cheers your opponents 😊

@ayuminor 24 дня назад

No hangboard gang gets validated 😁

@ssize_t 24 дня назад

where tf do I buy a spraywall tho

@gingobingo1567 24 дня назад

@@ssize_t True like thats the thing. Unless you have a really good spray wall or tension board to train on, I think hangboard training is essential for fingers.

@genieinthepot2455 24 дня назад

@@ssize_tyou can build one. Moon/tension/kilter boards aren't a bad replacement either.

@allanzhou6778 23 дня назад

people are all different, finger training is good for certain people for sure

@perronsam7224 23 дня назад

Bosi does hangboard every day ;)

@lowaltitudefreesoloist 24 дня назад

Really cool video! TAMY climbing has a very playful/encouraging mood on their channel and I feel like it was brought out in your video. Loved that you asked some non-climbing related questions and great to see the comparison between Meichi and your climbing style - feel like I learn the most in the gym that way. Keep up the videos man, they just keep getting better! (Also nice job to Cordi on the sick angles for some of the comp boulders)

@LiamRappaport 24 дня назад

Tomoa has some excellent videos on improving your dynos. I love that the dyno master married the static master. Akiyo was a major inspiration for me when I first started climbing.

@Khanh1321 24 дня назад

Miss seeing Akiyo compete :(

@EmilAbrahamsson 24 дня назад

Definitely me too!

@CaseyKonstanz 24 дня назад

Same! I'm glad she's enjoying her well earned retirement but damn do I miss her style in comps.

@VelascoFlorencia 24 дня назад

Me toooo!

@tobiasmartinez596 24 дня назад

Haven't even seen it but already gave it a like. Huge collab!!! Amazing video

@BC128 23 дня назад

Yay! Akiyo in the house! Wish we can see more of Akiyo climbing as well! Great video BTW!

@dylansmith3452 24 дня назад

Something ive noticed in japanese climbers is that they rarely belittle themselves, which is something i find very common within European and American climbers.

@PeterTeal77 24 дня назад

Yeah I think we tend to express humbleness through self-deprecation in the west, and are too quick to take talking about one's own strengths as bragging. Maybe it's not ideal, but every culture has their standards.

@dylansmith3452 24 дня назад

@@PeterTeal77 I just think that it's generally a bad habit especially in climbing, Louis Parkinson from catalyst climbing explains it really well.

@jwalker_25 24 дня назад

@@dylansmith3452what’s the video title, out of curiosity?

@dylansmith3452 23 дня назад

@@jwalker_25 I'm not sure, he brings it up across most of his coaching episodes though.

@_alex_y.not_ 24 дня назад

Wow, to see such great climbers in one video. What a dream it must've been to finally climb with Emil Abrahamson. These Japanese guys might be going places!

@thailakhampo 24 дня назад

Love how your channel is growing. Great work!

@-j6481 24 дня назад

this is fire, just being in the energy you all so beautifully created together

@simonrobbins815 17 дней назад

Such a good vibe in this video, was great to enjoy your session vicariously.

@edulatorrev 24 дня назад

In Japanese culture, discipline is a key to their success. You can like it or not, it works.

@tsiiphsycoii 24 дня назад

Not for 100m sprint though

@brightfuture0959 24 дня назад

it mixes with a drive to be great as well, a desire to do and perfect the activity, that make it bearable/enjoyable for a person to grind that hard, I don't think it's all environmental/culture.

@axeus2008 24 дня назад

finally my two favourite climbing channels collab! been watching both of you for a couple years now 10/10 video

@whelmking6497 24 дня назад

Always crazy to see just how strong the world's best are, even compared with beasts like Emil.

@PaulMason-ci4yv 24 дня назад

Good to see someone thinks the same as me and I’ve often wondered why competitors don’t use a battery vacuum rather than a brush! Great video!

@lysungmd 23 дня назад

It’s so cool to have them on your channel!

@Kwigs_kun 24 дня назад

3:00 Yeah One Piece! Tomoa is a man of great talent and great taste

@heighRick 24 дня назад

Tomoa, Meichi, Emil, thanks for a great video, helps a lot!

@pintobean4455 24 дня назад

I was legitimately just smiling this entire video goddamn it so wholesome

@takeiteasy8847 23 дня назад

Also a 180kg deadlift for tomoas size is actually a big achievement. I am sure it was by no means a huge focus of his preparation so that goes to show the level of athlete tomoa is.

@rockatanaka 10 дней назад

Such a crazy facility! Puts it into perspective how strong they really are!

@JustinAstro 24 дня назад

seems like all the high level comp climbers only train spray wall primarily. Janja also almost exclusively climbs spray wall. Seems to be the key to good technique development and finger strength!

@mayabrody2522 24 дня назад

Hi Emil! So cool that North Face is a sponsor!

@user-kf2qs2hg1f 24 дня назад

21:15 I’m so hyped when Emil stuck the landing!!!

@jonnes__4657 24 дня назад

🗽 I have learned so much from Tomoa.... THANK YOU Tomoa for that. 🙏

@jennymchandler 23 дня назад

Great video thankyou. Really cool insight into the Japanese team training.

@Bobbzorzen 23 дня назад

Loved this collab!

@n3v3r1s4 21 день назад

love the way you guys hit it off!

@ashinator9309 24 дня назад

Perfect timing

@Theboardbro 24 дня назад

Such a great vid!🔥

@tomwright4355 24 дня назад

Amazing as always emil! Keep up the great content would love to see you in london but got work 😢

@jia5066 11 дней назад

More Akiyo pleasee !! Great video but would love to see her climb moree !

@gekquad116 24 дня назад

Having done psicobloc, it’s SO FUN. The event is a massive climber party and is some of the best fun I’ve had.

@TheDopoqob 24 дня назад

Love the establishing shots at 0:00

@nicholasmarshall5775 24 дня назад

Great vid! Me and my fellow board nerds would love to see you do one on the new 2024 Moonboard

@ollililjestrom 14 дней назад

Oh, I would love to see Tomoa try Burden of Dreams! Welcome to Finland! 🙏🏻

@tctech5238 24 дня назад

See you in London!!

@MusicScala 7 дней назад

Why is noone talking with Akiyo in their videos? 😭 Magnus also mostly focused on Tomoa, but Akiyo is a legend herself and deserves the attention

@xSwitchB1ade 24 дня назад

Banging vid as always.

@siandelfin7370 24 дня назад

This vid came just in time for my office work🎉

@dzb33 24 дня назад

The way they move up the slab confidently and with momentum reminds me Johnny Dawes. They both seem really comfortable with the no-hands moves.

@gunnaruppstad3574 24 дня назад

20:20 that's a crazy cool move!! Can't wait to replicate an easier version of it next time I'm on the spray wall.

@ashleystephens5608 24 дня назад

What a great collaboration! 😍

@gekquad116 24 дня назад

Sick collab and also congrats on a major brand sponsorship??? That’s a huge deal!

@mukundgite8695 24 дня назад

Dude this tomoa is just insanely goooooddd

@robertcreer8826 20 дней назад

Awesome video!

@driesvanoosten4417 24 дня назад

Really nice video Emil!

@nolimbsjohnny 24 дня назад

tomoa saying "i am luffy" is so wholesome

@StevendeVilliers-bd4wu 24 дня назад

Really interesting video. Thank you 🎉

@nickaborr 24 дня назад

damn, Emil, getting North face as a sponsor! sick!

@FlashFocused 15 дней назад

Meichi is a competition BEAST right now. Super on form!

@mikeumali2230 24 дня назад

insane collab

@agario5161 24 дня назад

really great video

@Chris_Bower 23 дня назад

Can't wait to see Tomoa on Burden of Dreams!

@ejlung7758 24 дня назад

Meichi with the air blower is funny

@Camdini 24 дня назад

such a good video!

@SelcraigClimbs 24 дня назад

"あ~~~ナルトじゃん?" *Epic shirt noticed* TAMYとコラッブがどんどん増えるほど世界の幸せも増えます

@plastikmaiden 24 дня назад

Dude, from the title I thought you where climbing with the Stoltman brothers from Scotland. They're strongmen.

@tuftofflowers 24 дня назад

How cool is that!!!!! Maaaan let’s go

@VedranBucko 22 дня назад

They're so weightless! When the taller brother jumped off the Dyno boulder it's like he floated down. Super weird!

@mohdasimyusree8449 24 дня назад

8:55 “is this still a warm up for you guys?” “Mm, yes.” “Ok good to know” 😅

@tommycoyan5654 24 дня назад

Wow those guys ARE strong

@Awesomlypossom 24 дня назад

Would love to see Tomoa try burden of dreams

@linyu8441 24 дня назад

perfect landing for your last try !!

@AaronClimbs34 24 дня назад

I live in Japan and B-pump Ogikubo and climbing around Tomoa, Sorato, Miho, and Ogata is always so intimidating yet so amazing to watch.

@MlleAudree 24 дня назад

A TAMY and Emil collab? My dreams are coming true, don’t pinch me ! Nice video as always :)

@KillerTacos54 24 дня назад

Wow a new Emil and Magnus video on the same day!

@samssends 24 дня назад

There’s me reading it thinking you were climbing with the Stoltman brothers🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

@suki355 24 дня назад

damn what a collab!

@ewelina-flrt 24 дня назад

they way i believe i can do this even tho i never climbed in my life

@Literemmett 24 дня назад

No way… when I saw this thumbnail I gasped

@endlessfluid2430 23 дня назад

A great question comes to mind,how can one afford to open a gym this big and get all the holds when the comps barely pay

@EmilAbrahamsson 23 дня назад

Sponsorships are the only way to earn money in climbing! I believe the walls were sponsored by the phone network company in Japan. Could be wrong though 😅

@Theaddekalk 5 дней назад

nice!

@wk7763 24 дня назад

めっちゃ楽しそう！

@andrefivethousand 24 дня назад

Yowzah! Stateside so I can't make the festival - but the music looks ace!

@Cropinky 24 дня назад

i love this video so muchh

@CruzPui 24 дня назад

Hugeeeeee letssss gooooo

@vincent8273 13 дней назад

What Bjorn Borg shorts are you wearing Emil - they look great!

@jonaskarlsson5901 24 дня назад

they must be using the coolest "brush" ever lol

@alvaroawesome4675 24 дня назад

I was thinking in the Raboutou when I opened the video

@Nico-bv6hi 21 день назад

Love these japan guys man, they're so freaking humble for who they are. Just curious but how come you literally do the same collbs as magnus in such a short time?

@Pandamon1um_ 24 дня назад

How about the Abrahamson bros. They are high in the ranking too 😀😀😀

@theoneatyourdoor87 21 день назад

I was scared that you were going to break your shoulder for a second

@madpingui5007 24 дня назад

What climbing shoes do you usually use Emil?

@Max_bertone 24 дня назад

Emil I’m first and I love you

@EmilAbrahamsson 24 дня назад

Haha love you too my man, hope all is well ❤️ saw that you’re doing world cups, I’ll be cheering so loud that you’ll hear it all the way from Sweden!

@Liimed_ 24 дня назад

nous aussi on t'aime bg

@mcspecko1375 24 дня назад

Oh No 😵 The Moment all did it and you were the only one left to do.

@k.a.8725 24 дня назад

It's crazy to me that their only form of strength training is basically just climbing. I don't think you can really gain the most amount of strength possible with just that, but apparently it's enough for world class.

@chandlermclaren60 24 дня назад

Janja also exclusively just climbs along with some physio, but no structured strength training. Such a young sport, so much yet to know!

@colemantrebor6574 24 дня назад

Might be the best way to gain climbing specific strength, and also great technique while doing it. In another video Tomoa said he doesn't think Japanese climbers are as strong as the Europeans but they compensate through technique

@spacevadr10 24 дня назад

Tomoa said in the Magnus video he only did strength training for speed climbing IFRC

@empty3102 24 дня назад

Strength training seems more theoretical, whereas just climbing is a lot more practical. I think it really emphasises their point about climbing technique. While strength opens up more options in approaching problems, technique improves the efficacy of that applied strength. Both are important, but I think the japanese favors the latter as they're leaner and lighter.

@genieinthepot2455 24 дня назад

@@spacevadr10he also said it in this video

@alvaroc6326 22 дня назад

I'd say if you climb since childhood your fingers and arms get adapted while just climbing, so apart from minor physio they can just boulder as training. People that got later in life into it, must do isolated finger and shoulder training to progress and not get injured.