because of u sir now i know how to measure the forge piston....because someone tell me that forge piston need to be same size at bottom and the top...tq so much sir...low hp of b16a boosted
Jay, what about for an example, measuring the air gap on a concentric fitted to an MT82 mustang trans and a twin disc? The bellhousing is cast as 1 piece. Personally, in my experience, what we do is thread bolts into the holes of the block that would allow us to simulate the bellhousing edge and perform the other measurements the same way, however, this can be dubious at times, because threading the bolts in can and has in some cases lead to incorrect measurements/clearances.
Is it possible to measure this distance on a T56 magnum/McLeod RXT w/ the transmission and bell still bolted to the motor? Or does the spring have to be removed from the TOB in order to get the collapsed distance? Obviously, pulling the trans back would be easier, in most cases. But the swap I’m working with is far from convenient to unbolt and pull the trans away.
ive lightened , balanced and skimmed my flywheel - now my thrust bearing keeps failing , MTX 75 gearbox - this my first zetec setup where the bearing in transmission is failing
My mcleod rxt twin disc with new pinion bearing and slave cylinder stock on my 2015 ford mustang gt performance package will not do a burnout if i rev at 3-4000rpm with traction totaly off, intead it acts like the traction control is on..what am i doing wrong
Man I'm coming up with like 15 shims, this is a 2002 manual mustang transmission going into a 302, don't know year and it is going into a 91 ford ranger, not sure if this is uncommon for this many shims..lol..first time. And looks like the slave cylinder support rod is going to be short also..
What gearbox are you guys showing there and what car is it going in? I have a supra currently with a W58 sitting behind an Aristo 2JZGTE and I am looking at a T56 conversion. Just trying to get as much information as possible before I start down this road. Also great video thanks for the upload.
to do the drops really easy get a digital caliper... .and a large machinist square.. set the thick part of the machinist square against the throw out bearing. drop down to the bearing face and zero out your caliper.... now on the straight edge drop down to the face of the trans... no need to subtract the thickness of your straight edge... do the same to the bellhousing to pressure plate fingers....
My twin clutch was fine and now after 600miles You can feel the first plate is engaged straight of the fire wall and judders the car and the second plate engages right at the end of the clutch travel (peddle) before taking off What is the issue ? I have bleed the clutch which fixed it but did not last long
The easy test is to put the car in gear and rev the engine to 6,000-7,000 RPM with the clutch depressed and see if the car moves. If it moves with the engine speed up and the car moves it needs more air gap OR the discs are not floating freely on the input shaft. Thanks
Hi Jay... I installed mine up to spec, but everytime i shift the TOB squeels.. mostly on 1st and 2nd gear on lower RPM.. goes away on higher RPM. Then after putting miles on the clutch, about 200 miles, the squeel minimized.... Maybe need to be break-in?
you might of gotten a bad TOB it happens. did you reuse your old one or did you get a new one. you are suppose to change them when you do a clutch change.
Hai jay i have a twin plate clutch install in 4g63 6 bolt engine. The clutch plate teeth both all worn out..what could cause this to happen?need some advice...
I believe it is in relation to the particular ckamp pressure that the springs can be purchased. A color for different pressure basically, i could be wrong but Titon do offer different set ups with a color reference
Truth from Jay, Saving you money, and no headaches from accusing your lame ass installer of being an idiot - priceless. Glad I live in FL to send my car to Real St
bro, I have a quarter master tri-lite release bearing and quarter master optimum v clutch. replaced clutch as it was bad, and also bearing and cylnder, but still grinds in reverse, and 1 - 4th are hard to shift. Is it the trans gone? (its a super t-10 4 speed.) Also, my release bearing bolts onto the bellhousing not trans, so how do you measure the gap between the throwout bearing and the clutch forks? Thanks! Its for my nascar racecar here: ru-vid.comHheyapi8Sis
