I just found out today that the "tiny" nuts you mentioned (4:46) are 5/16 JIS nuts. This is a Japanese standard. The nut heads are 7/16 instead of the SAE standard of 1/2". The 4.2L carb mount is so tight in the stud area that SAE 5/16 nuts are almost imposable to get on using 1/2 wrenches or sockets. Thanks for the video!
32/36 will solve issues on so many different vehicles. I love this carberator. With proper conversion plates I can find no faults with these units. Easily jetted and performance tuned.
Holley and Weber got together in the '70s and built the 5210 series carbs which were very similar and they were used on GM and Ford four cylinder engines. I loved those things back then.
the weber carburetor is the way to go , i have the 38/38 on my 1990 jeep yj with the 258 engine and since i did the weber carburetor swap i have no problems
Those Weber 32-36 carbs are great. I’ve used them on several of my cars over the years. Took care of flat spots, idling issues and always better mpg! BTW the 32/36 is the diameter in mm of the two barrels.
I had on one my Subaru for many years, right up until I sold it. The Weber was a HUGE improvement over the factory carb. Really woke up that little 1600cc engine. Sold the car decade ago, but I still have the Weber. It's too neat to part with. LOL "Made in Italy".
Thanks man! This video pointed me in the right direction on my sons' 1983 Jeep Scrambler 258 two barreled carburetor. The guy we bought it from did a bad job at the conversion and hookups. It's been a while since my 80s hotrod days...
This same weber has been on my 81 cj5 almost 2 years now, it's great! The carter bbd was junk from the get-go, can't hate amc, they were doing the best they could with extreme new emissions standards of the time. Got rid of a ton of vacuum lines and junk. Also, bbd's are rarely rebuildable. it only takes a worn throttle shaft to make it junk from my experience.
I have the same carb on a 258 ci. runs great, you can get roller bearings for the cross shafts so they don't wear the casting oblong. Match this with a D.U.I. distributor and wow, just too cool.
The adapter for the 32 36 often has an issue of coming loose and causing a vacuum leak. I used sealant between the gasket/ intake/ adapter. Also thread lock on screws and bolts.
@user-ml4vu2qh1y Any good gas proof sealant will work. I believe I used aviation sealant. It's pretty thin liquid. Just a thin coat, both sides of gaskets has worked for me. Thread lock is is important, too.
Ford 5150 works well also. But I was able to get a weber 38/38 and havent installed yet. Oh you will need to get a regulator as the fuel psi is much lower than a regular carb.
I just got the same kit for my ‘88 YJ in the mail today. I’m ready to be done with the carter. May need you to come help me slap it on. You made it look pretty easy.
its so odd dodge used that same bolt pattern i know as far back as 1966 because my 1966 D500 has that same bolt pattern i ordered one of the amazon Chinese copys and so far works great
Great job, and Thank you for this video it is going to help me a lot. You don’t happen to have similar for the Msi distributor, and aftermarket tachometer. I Just ordered my Weber redline kit and crt msi kit. Looking for a tach that will work well with the setup. I am also trying to find information on what to do with the existing components wiring and Vacume lines when they are no longer in use. What needs to stay hooked up for the truck to run and what can be removed to clean up the engine bay.
I don't have any experience with the MSD, but when I converted to GM HEI none of the original wires from the spark control were needed. Any modern tack will work.
There was one on there previously, so I left it in place. It was one of those Mr. Gasket cheapies, but it did the job. You can see it in the video at 14:52.
Great video and commentary. My question about the throttle linkage. I have an 81 CJ7 and I’m having trouble with the stiff arm adjustable rod that goes down to the accelerator. Mine is a cable and I’m interested to see where you clipped the rod to the gas pedal
At 13:19 where I connected the accelerator rod at the top is visible. I was not able to use the original rod, since the location of one of the connectors was 90 degrees off. The bottom of the new rod clips onto the original Jeep linkage that comes from the gas pedal. I did not have to make any modification to the new rod. It just clips on.
Great video...I am currently rebuilding a 85 cj7...down to final phase and the crappy carb is the same one you removed...I will be going to the weber 38 and you made it look pretty easy...hey where did you get the blue plug wires...can't find the right ones for the jeep...great job thanks
So I have just gone installing the Weber carb on my 1980 CJ7 and having the most difficult time figuring out how the throttle linkage is connected to the carb .... think I forgot to take photographs before I took it apart. Do you by any chance have a video of where the original linkage is attached/installed and how its integrated with the new Weber linkage? Thanks in advance!
Great video Prague. Question. can I run this carb permantly with the crankcase vent plugged like yours was when then video ended? Also, my mounting plate does not have a threaded port for the PCV valve. Is this a vacuum issue? I have seen guys with the 258 just throw a filter into the pcv hole on top the valve cover and call it a day. Is this ok?
Thanks Brad. The lack of the port does not create a vacuum issue. I always run a PCV. The engine smells bad without it and it is very polluting. I ran mine to the carb base plate. If yours does not have a connection there should be one somewhere else on the carb itself. The plugged connection in the air cleaner is for the crankcase vet, and I did end up hooking it up.
I bought a 1990 yj with the Webber already in it but I think it was a hack job. Studs missing, etc. I have 2 pcv valves on the valve cover as well. What are your 2 connected to ??? I might just buy a new carb and start from the beginning
The PCV should go to manifold vacuum at the base of the carb or close to it. The other hole should go to the air cleaner using one of the plastic pipes included in the kit.
@@whattherust do you have only 1 air mixture screw in the base plate ? Upon further examination, it appears that I have 2 1 on either side of the baseplate.
Weber's are CRAP! Use the Motorcraft 2100 or Autolite 2100 2 brrl and you will be amazed! By the time the Weber opens the 2 bbl. it is time to shift.. Horrible carb.
Absolutely. I've got this weber junk on my newest project CJ-7, installed by the previous owner. I CAN'T WAIT to swap it for my 2150. These eurotrash carbs don't hold a candle to Autolite/Motorcraft.
I was just going to ask if @whattherust was still happy with the Weber. Went down this rabbit hole a couple years ago with my dad's 1987 Wrangler when he was having non-stop issues with starting his Jeep whenever he went out to use it. I was reading all over that the Webers were pains as well and just go with the 2150. Ordered a conversion kit for my dad and we swapped it out and the thing starts right up every time. It's been amazing. High praise for the 2150.
